[From William Cooper's Castletown]
Cooper's Text | Notes by Eva Wilson |
---|---|
5 = Post Office, 6 = House of Keys 7 = St Marys, 8 = Grammar School, |
The road to Knock Rushen ran unhindered along the shore line before Bishop Wilson built the new St Mary's Chapel, at the south end of the Market Place, consecrated in 1701. The eastern end of the old road now became Chapel Street, making a dog-leg round the end of the new Chapel. The street that led off to the west of the new Chapel eventually became Queen Street. 8 The present St Mary's Church occupies the same site as its predecessor. Chapel Street became Chapel Lane and is also referred to in some records as College Lane or School Lane. School Lane was, however, more often the name applied to a short lane, not much more than a path, which ran from the corner of the Grammar School and down to the sea. Nothing now remains of the buildings in the area, except the old Grammar School. Castletown Commissioners decided already in the early 1930s that the area should be demolished, to make way for sewerage improvements and redevelopment. In the event, the demolition was not completed until the end of the 1950s. The Old Grammar School was saved, when it was purchased by Manx National Heritage for a nominal figure of £20. The area is now a car park. George Freestone grew up here in the 1920s. A man with an excellent memory, he made a record of what he remembered about the people living here. His memories will be referred to from time to time here.9 |
The first house, next to the church, has always been a tailor's shop in my time, at first kept by Mr. Edward Callow and then by his son Charles, and now by a Mr. Horrocks. Mr. Callow used to keep pigs in the garden next to the Grammar School and he had an apprentice from Ronague. At one time the pig was not thriving and the apprentice said it was bewitched. As the two of them were in the shop a woman passed. The apprentice said "That's the one that has witched the pig!" He got a brush and shovel and brushed the street where the woman had passed and run down and dusted the pig with the dust and the pig got better. Mr. Callow was friendly with my father and I heard him telling this. The next house was Mr. Ned Kewin, barber's. We lads went there on Saturday nights to get our hair cut as the other barbers would not cut it on that day which was reserved for shaving. |
Freestone remembers an incident when cattle, being driven to Gell's slaughter house at the end of School Lane, went straight up the stairs of Teddy Kewin's house 'the staircase being directly in line with the door' and 'we as kids following on and shouting'. |
The house facing you as you entered the Lane was occupied by Mr Tommy Clarke, his son Robert and daughter. The Clarkes were small farmers (and I have told you about them.) This house and the adjoining one, which was occupied when I went to school by a Mr. Quayle, has been pulled down in a clearance scheme. The next house was occupied by a Mrs. Edwards, daughter of T. Clarke, and later by her sister. |
In another context Cooper explains that Tommy Clarke farmed fields 'here and there', as, for example, he was growing turnips in a field at School Hill. Freestone remembers Gelling's slaughter- house here. They had their butchers' shop in Bank Street. |
The next was occupied by Mr. Flynn, a pensioner, and afterwards by his son John and his widow and daughter. These two houses and Kewin's are also to be pulled down. The next was Parson's Almshouse which has been partly pulled down. |
This substantial house, at the comer of Chapel Lane and School Lane, was, in the eighteenth century, the residence of the Rev. William Ross, Academic Professor at the Grammar School. It was one of several buildings in the area, purchased by Rev. George Stickler Parsons, Government Chaplain, and turned into almshouses. There was no legal entitlement for the relief of the poor in the Isle of Man; help was provided by the churchwardens out of the church rates and charitable gifts. |
Opposite the Grammar School were two old cottages, now pulled down. The first, when I was going to school, was occupied by Mr. W. Corrin, Painter, who went by the name Willie the Post as he went round with the evening post. The next was occupied by Mrs Curphey, who went by the name of Deaf Ann, and her daughter went by the name of Deaf Ann with her own name, Carrie, in front (Carrie Deaf Ann). |
Freestone remembers Buck Collister, butcher, known as Windy Bills. Next door, Eddie Monty Callow 'who fished every day with rod and line off the pier head of the Irish Quay'. |
The next house, which is also to come down, was occupied by Mr. J. Cannell, general labourer, who went by the name of dem the Lord. It was afterwards occupied by the reputed centenarian, Mrs. Quinney, until she died. Mrs Quinney (pronounced Conya) is remembered sitting on the step all day smoking a'clay cutty pipe'. On the opposite side is the Grammar School. I was there for two and a half year under Mr. Wicksey. There were about fifty boys in the school at that time, the largest number there at one time. They came from all over, Port St. Mary, Port Erin, Mount Gawne, The Level, Ballagawne, Arbory, Balladoole, Ballahick, Castletown. Mr. Wicksey also had a few borders. |
Cooper attended the Grammar School when he was 12 years old. In another context he lists the subjects taught as: 'arithmetic, algebra, Euclid, Latin, French and a little Greek, but not much history, geography, dictation and composition. Singing and recitation, some of Shakespear's plays which we sometimes acted.' The Old Grammar School, Tourist Information Centre. Built by the monks of Rushen Abbey, this was the town church and Grammar School. When the new Chapel was built in 1701, the old Chapel building was enlarged and continued as a Grammar School. Mr. Ashford-Hill was headmaster when the school closed down in 1930. |
Next to the school were the ruins of an old building the walls of which were built with mud, not mortar, with a garden below. Outside this building was a small barn and, at the gable of Finnegan's school, was the old soup kitchen and store house. These buildings, with the walls of the school yard, have now been pulled down. The first teacher I remember in Finnegan's School was Miss Katie Jones whose mother was wardress in the Castle. She later married Mr. D. Callow. The next was Miss Lizzie Corrin, who before that had been mistress at Derbyhaven School and was there until the Education Authority closed the school. |
The Halsall School. In about 1764, a house was built 'near the Grammar School' for a free school for girls, following a bequest by Catherine Halsall. It is not clear exactly where this house was among the ruins and demolished buildings in this area. The Halsall School also became known as Finnegan's School as a succession of mistresses and their families lived there. The school closed in the 1860s.10 Freestone remembers Miss Cartmel, St. Nicholas Nurse, living in one of the buildings here. |
The next was the Widow's Alms House, a room each for four widows, but latterly they allowed spinsters. It belonged to the Crellin family of Andreas and was kept in repair by them. |
Freestone remembers Lizzie Christian, Lizzie the Flitter and her many cats and Elly Wipes. |
The next was Mr. James Taggart's stables, now roofless. I do not know anything about the next house. |
This was where George Freestone's family lived for some years in the 1920s and where he was born. The cottage has more recently been incorporated with the house next door, 2 Parliament Square |
The next house was Mr. Kelly's, High Bailiff [2 Parliament Square]. I do not know if he lived in it in my time or not, but that was what it went by. It was occupied by Mr. Caveen, farmer, father of Mr. James Caveen who lives Laxey way. He will be over ninety and may be able to give you some information about old Castletown. It was afterwards occupied by Mr. McLaughlin. It is now occupied by Mr. and Mrs. G. Kneale and has been for some years. |
The Big House, The High Bailiff's House. Built in 1719 for Edward Cornah, The Lord's Steward, it is the most important private house in Castletown, set very prominently between the Castle and the sea. It was the residence of John Kelly, High Bailiff. Since then it has had mixed fortunes and was nearly pulled down for development into offices in the 1980. It is now a private residence |
Lane to New Harbour [Back Lane, now Parliament Lane]. On the right: the outbuildings of the last house, one of which was used as a soup kitchen when the old one was disused, was also lived in at one time. I remember Pat Gallagher and wife living in it. |
Freestone remembers a coal yard and Bertie Cooil, whose favourite saying was Hot News. The whole building has recently been converted as a private house, The Old Inn. |
On the left the Rocket Corps Storeroom. The loft of this was used as a clubroom by the members of the Corps. Two of my brothers, two joiners, and two masons, who worked for my father at that time, were members of the Corps and some of them had long service medals. The Chief Officers I remember were Rev. Ferrier and J. S. Gell, High Bailiff, and then the Coastguards took over. I do not know when they first came here, but one of them was on duty at the stranding of the Mona's Isle on Scarlett in 1892. His name was Horsham. |
The Rocket House. Freestone remembers that the Rocket Brigade was run by two 'ex-navy men, Sam Harrison and Tom Pascoe, a man as wide as he was tall!' This building was converted as a private residence in 1998. |
The next house [1 Parliament Lane] was occupied by Mr. R. Kneale who was a shoemaker and went round with the post at night. |
This substantial cottage was probably built in the eighteenth century. On the first floor there is panelling with carved graffiti of 18th-century-type sailing ships. |
The others below have their fronts to the Quay. Lane to Quay [Quay Lane]. On the right the Rocket Storehouse which was occupied by Mr James Mylchreest, mariner. He was a tall man and went by the name of Big Jemmy. The first thing I remember of him was [when] a sailing boat, either the Amor Dei or Mates Dei of Naples, came into the bay before the wind, which was fairly heavy, and Mylchreest and some other sailors went out in a boat and got her into the harbour to the berth below the footbridge and tried to moor her but nothing happened and nothing would hold, and at last they had to fasten the ropes to the mast. I remember Mylchreest on deck swearing about the rotten old boat. Mylchreest got on well with Lord Raglan during the clearing out of the Castle. He and his son John, who enlisted in the army, was [were] made custodian[s] of [the] Castle after Mr. W. McLaughlin. His widow now lives in the house |
4 Quay Lane. Freestone remembers Dickie Duke, fisherman. With his brother Jack, he owned a twenty-foot open boat called the Wild Wave. Their main job was fishing crabs and lobsters. In August and September, they would row and sail 'dipping lug sail' to the Carrick Rock in Port St Mary Bay and catch fifteen or twenty callig and blokin and sell them on the slabs on the Castle dike. Jack Duke lived on the Quay. |
On the left: the first house [1 Quay Lane] was occupied by a Mr. Orr and his sister and afterwards by Mr. James Tate and his widow. Mr. Tate was one of the last old sailors from here who sailed to foreign parts on the old square-rigged ships. The people I remember in the houses below, but do not know which house, were Kelly's, the father of Topsy Kelly (George) who got the name from a character he acted in some amateur theatricals. He later became harbour-master at Douglas and used to be in great demand to sing 'Hunt the Wren'. There were several other families living here but I cannot say in which houses. There was a Mr. Fred Cleator, fisherman and coxswain of the Lifeboat. The son emigrated to the U.S.A. and I have seen his name in the Bulletin. The Woods family was another, and also a fisherman or sailor called Tommy Duke and also Mr. Thos. Kelly who was assistant harbour-master. There were one or two houses pulled down to build the I.O.M. Steam Packet Co. Warehouse. |
3 Quay Lane, Solomons Corner. The Manx Steam Trading Company first established a warehouse on this site. They sold out to the Isle of Man Steam Packet Co. in 1912. The sale included the cargo boat, steamer Tyrconnel the which continued to sail under Captain Willie Collister until he retired in 1930. Tyrconnel was sold in 1932. The buildings on this corner have now been converted as a private residence. |
The house opposite the footbridge was an old public house [Ellan Vannin Arms]- that was before my time. The lower Part was the Harbour Office. I do not know if the harbour master lived in the other part. The next was Mr. J. S. Kegg's warehouse and was converted into a Reading Room when I was about ten years old. This did not last long and after it was empty for years it was converted into a warehouse by the I.O.M. Steam Packet Co. who used it until they gave up when they stopped the steamer sailing to Castletown, It is now a knitting factory of some kind. |
Ellan Vannin and Packet House. Freestone remembers Ellan Vannin House, or 'Billars', where Mrs Kelly kept a popular boarding house. Her husband Billar Kelly was a real character. |
Opposite side of the lane: the Crown Arms Hotel which in my time was occupied by a Mrs. Brine who married a man named Kelly and always afterwards went by [the name] Kelly Brine. Mrs. Brine had a son, Willie, who was a traveller or clerk in the Brewery |
Harbour House. Crown Arms Hotel is first mentioned in 1852, and ceased to be an inn before the First World War.11 It is now a private house. |
The next was Mr. Moore's, Billown, warehouse. During the last war it was used as a paper-saving store. |
The Granary. Five storeys high, the old warehouse backs on to Parliament Lane. It has been converted as a private house. |
I do not know who occupied the next house [5 The Quay] when I was young but it was owned by a family who were always called Moore The Iron Spout, as they lived opposite an iron pipe which was fed by a small stream, the water of which they used. It was at the bottom of Cronk-y-Thatcher on the road to Colby. Mrs. Moore's daughter and son-in- law, Mr. W. Corteen lived in it for some years. It is now occupied by Mr. George Creer, an ex-naval man. The next house [4 The Quay] was occupied by Mr. Thomas Kewish until he became Harbour-master. Before his time there was no entrance to the house from the Quay side, the entrance being from the lane at the back. The bottom room on the quay side was used as a store. But Mr. Kewish put up a flight of stairs so he could get up to the house from the quay side. There were three houses between this and the Harbour Master's, one of which was added to that, and one of the others was occupied by Miss Margaret Cleator, sister of Mr. H. Cleator. Another was occupied by a man who went by the name of Joe Andy. I do not know his right name. The first Harbour Master I remember was Mr. James Kewish, and next, his son Mr. Thos. Kewish. They held the position between them for a good many years. |
The present Harbour Masters Office was rebuilt and extended in 2000, adding lavatories and shower rooms on the ground floor. The Anchor, which for many years had been set up outside the old Harbour Masters' Office, was moved to the other side of Parliament Lane. It is not of a Manx or English type and it is assumed to have belonged to a foreign ship lost in Manx waters |
8 Roscow, op. cit. 13-14.
9 Freestone, George, map 1994, in manuscript with notes, Castletown Heritage records.
10 Garrad, L. S., 1967, `Catherine Halsall School, Castletown, and the Finigan Family', Journal of the Manx Museum, Vol.VII, 41-42.
11 Cubbon, S, 1998, Manx Inns. A pub crawl through history, 19.
|
||
Any comments, errors or omissions
gratefully received The
Editor HTML © F.Coakley , 2011 |