[From Buck Whaley's Memoirs]

CHAPTER V.

Constantinople, continued-Pera - Its Antiquities - Obelisks - Cistern of Basilica-The Slave Market-The Coffee Manufactory-The Watch-Tower-The Seven Towers-Ramaden-A Bath for the Ladies-Character of the Turks-Dress-The Ladies-Their Food -Their Diversions-Arts and Sciences-A Turkish Billet-Doux - The Plague-The Police-The Grand Signior-Public Buildings-Marriages-Janissaries.

ON going from the Seraglio a foreigner is much pleased with the beautiful front of St. Sophia, close to which stands one of the finest fountains in Constantinople, built by the Grand Signior and richly ornamented with gold and Turkish characters. We afterwards went to see a Mosque built by Sultan Achmet ; it is a very beautiful building and in its interior far exceeds that of St. Sophia, having six lofty minarets and three galleries. The immense square, in the middle of which it stands, was begun by the Emperor Severus and finished by Constantine. Proceeding on the right, you enter the largest street or Constantinople, called Divan Yole Dgiami. All the amabadgis, guards of the highest order of the Grand Signior, have their houses here. At the bottom of this street are still seen some ruins of superb arcades, which formerly belonged to the Palaces of the Emperors, and the famous staircase by which the princes ascended to the celebrated place At-meïdan, which under the Greek Emperors was called Hippodrome. It was a Circus in which the public spectacles of horse-racing, bull-fighting etc., were represented. It is more than twelve hundred feet long and three hundred broad. The few antiquities to be seen at Constantinople are chiefly in this square, and reduced to two obelisks and a few columns.

The first obelisk is about thirty-five feet high : it consists of two pieces of red oriental granite, which are in high preservation ; as well as the Egyptian hieroglyphics, which cover it almost from top to bottom. It stands on a pedestal of white marble, and on the side fronting the Mosque are seen Latin hexameters, still legible ; by which it appears that it was erected by the Emperor Theodosius. On the base are several figures in basso relievo ; but mostly effaced by the ravages of time. Theodosius is represented on one side, with a palm and a crown in his hand, and on the other is the representation of a battle. There is another obelisk at the extremity of this great place, of fifty feet height. It has four sides, and is built of large square stones which are crowded with figures in basso relievo. It is erected on a pedestal, on which is a Greek inscription almost obliterated. A little farther on, an immense pillar of bronze, resembling three large serpents entwined together, presents itself to view. These serpents have lost their heads, and their bodies are nearly [? defaced by the] stones which children are incessantly throwing into them. It is supposed that this pillar served as one of the tripods in the temple of Delphi, which was consecrated to Apollo, and that it was removed to this city by Constantine the Great.

From this place we went to examine a very great Cistern, anciently called the Cistern of Basilica, which, though the Turks have curtailed more than two thirds, is still immense. It is now quite dry, and contains several hundred persons preparing and winding silk for the manufactories, who fasten their skeins or hanks to the different pillars that support this vast reservoir. Some Greek inscriptions are still to be seen ; but I could not find any of them legible. No traveller or antiquarian has yet been able to ascertain the use of this reservoir.

As it was now near our dinner hour, and we were at some distance from the ambassador's Palace, we hastened our return home, but by another road, and had the pleasure of viewing en passant a place called Catergha Limanis, or the Port of the Galleys. This is a very pretty part of the city, where formerly stood the Baths of Julian. We likewise saw a very fine Palace belonging to the Sultana Esma, situated towards the South and commanding a most beautiful prospect.

I observed on our way a vast number of granites scattered here and there, half buried in the ground, and some of them serving as corner stones to the streets. We finished our course by taking a slight view of the Slave-market, where both men and women are exposed to public sale : and thanks to the Jews and pirates, this commodity is most abundant at Constantinople. The Turks come here to purchase men, women and children, as they happen to be in want of them. I saw a beautiful young Georgian bargained for, and examined by several connoisseurs, and owing to the very extravagant demand of her owner, she was some time before she could get a purchaser, though the poor girl did everything in her power to engage notice and command attention, thinking, no doubt, any kind of slavery preferable to the horrid idea of being thus daily exposed to public view, and belonging to a cruel and avaricious dealer in human flesh. The buying and selling of slaves form a considerable branch of commerce: nor do the ladies of the first distinction among the Turks think it beneath their notice. They often purchase pretty little girls, whom they educate with the greatest care and fondness, and engage masters to instruct them in music, dancing and singing. They bestow so much care in perfecting them in all external accomplishments, and particularly in the art of attracting men, and inspiring violent passions, that it is not uncommon to see young women thus educated rise from the humble sphere in which fortune had placed them to a more elevated station, and become the favourites, and often the wives, of men of the first rank and consequence.

December the 24th.

We began our excursion this morning by taking a view of a kiosk called Kirdeb Kioski, which is a kind of state prison, in which the viziers are confined till the time of their exile. Near it we saw another fine building, which was a House of justice : and passed an immense iron gate commanding a subterranean passage extending under the city as far as the Mosque of St. Sophia. I was also shewn here some remains of brick-work in the wall of the Seraglio, said to have formed a part of the ancient Church of our Saviour.

As we were in the neighbourhood, we paid a visit to the coffee manufactory called Belick Jaamizi, where all the coffee consumed in Constantinople is burnt and ground. More than three hundred persons are employed in it, and near four thousand pounds of coffee are daily sold. This may appear immense to persons who do not :know, or consider, that the Turks are accustomed to drink coffee, perhaps, a dozen times in the day; as it is, the quantity appears rather small in proportion to the daily consumption ; for the common people here, of the lowest order, live on coffee as the poor in Ireland do on potatoes. No person ever thinks of stirring out till he has first drank his coffee. In the poorest habitation you enter, a cup of coffee is offered you ; nor are you suffered to drink it alone, as the owner of the house is sure to pledge you, though he may have already done the same with a dozen prior visitors. This, together with the offer of a pipe, is the most common way of shewing their hospitality : if you refuse either, you are sure of offending, or at least, of giving them a very unfavourable opinion of your taste and manners.

We had been previously provided with an order, or permission to enter all mosques, otherwise we should have been prevented from examining many beautiful buildings of this kind ; nor should we have been allowed to see the place where Constantine the Great was buried. He is interred in the mosque called Osmanie Dgiamissi. It is a very fine building, both for its architecture and internal workmanship. The tomb of the Emperor is in the dome of the Church; it is made of one solid block of porphyry, excavated with the chisel, and close to it lies the lid. This beautiful piece of marble is nine feet in length, by three and a half in breadth. Its excavation, which has been the effect of skill and labour, is three feet deep. The thickness of its sides is four inches. From this we passed through the street called the Street of the Burnt Column, so named from the column that stands at the north end of it, which had suffered materially by a dreadful fire. It is of porphyry and surrounded with bars of iron ; its ornament consists of a beautiful foliage, and it is crowned with a capital of white marble. On its top stood the statue of the founder of this city. The column itself is formed of several pieces of porphyry, the parts of which are so admirably well fitted, and the joints so effectually concealed by wreaths of laurel, that till lately they could not be discerned, and it was supposed to be an entire piece of porphyry ; but time, that great developer of things, having defaced its ornaments, the joints are now visible in many places.

The Emperor Manuel Comnenus imagined that by diminishing the height of this celebrated column, he would save it from the ravages of time and weather ; but instead of replacing the statue of Constantine, he crowned the column with a capital of white marble, of the Doric order, and had an inscription engraved on it, which at this time is scarcely legible, importing that this admirable work had been restored by the very pious Emperor Comnenus.

We passed afterwards thro' a very long covered street, in which live all the librarians, book-binders and Turkish clerks. The latter amount to many thousands, as there are no printing offices in Constantinople. On expressing my astonishment at this to Sir R- A- he assured me that the very attempt to introduce printing would occasion a rebellion ; as the clerks would consider it as a deprivation of their only means of support or livelihood ; and they would be seconded by the mob of Constantinople, which is a very formidable body when assembled.

The Watch-tower of Constantinople next attracted our notice. From its top you can almost see the whole city ; and guards are here continually on the watch, that they may give the alarm on the first appearance of fire, which is done in the following manner. Three of them are always on the look-out, who are provided with drums and trumpets of different forms and sizes. When all these are sounded at once, the fire is supposed to be general over Constantinople ; and every one, let whatever be his rank or situation, is by these signals ordered to give assistance. When any of the smaller drums are beaten, the fire is in some particular quarter ; and when the trumpets are sounded, it is known to be in Pera. By this means every one knows to what quarter, and even to what street he is to direct his assistance on such an occasion. This is a most excellent institution, and without it the whole city would be consumed a dozen times in the year, supposing it could be rebuilt as often. During my short stay of about three months,¹ there were about twenty fires in the city and suburbs.

From this place we directed our steps to Mahomet's Bath, the most famous in Constantinople. It is built on the spot where once stood the Cistern of Arcadius and Modestus ; and the traveller still meets with some fragments of masonry belonging to this once celebrated basin. There are in many places pieces of broken pillars, and at the door of the bath two very beautiful marble capitals. This bath is by far the finest I ever saw, and the interior of it is finished in the highest style of eastern elegance.

We afterwards went through a gate built by the Emperor Theodosius, surrounded on one side with walls in arcades and flanked by towers. In ascending to the Mosque of Hassakei,² or the Mosque of the women, we were struck with the noble appearance of the pedestal on which formerly stood the Pillar of Arcadius : there remain only three feet and an half of the column, which is of verd 'antique:'³ and the pedestal on which it stands ten feet in height, is of red granite. We arrived afterwards at a fountain called Balukli, which is highly venerated by the superstitious Turks, who often come here to cast their nativity and consult future events, according to the form and appearance of a number of little fishes with which this fountain is well stocked.

The next day at ten o'clock I set out once more for Constantinople, to see some inscriptions to which I was induced to direct my attention by the advice of the Abbe S-, a very sensible, facetious man, and a great antiquary, who resides in the Ambassador's Palace. In viewing the walls of Constantinople, traces of antiquity may everywhere be discovered well worth the notice of a traveller. The ancient walls of Byzantium have in some places, braved the destructive hand of the Turks as well as of time. Superb columns are still to be seen, and some gateways are still existing. Inscriptions, the laboured monuments of Grecian art, are to be met with in many places on the walls and gateways, both in the Greek and Latin languages ; but the greatest part have suffered so much by time that they are scarcely legible. Thev in general announce the different repairs that have been made by different Emperors. At the end of the wall, which extends to the west along the sea-shore, are two towers, on one of which the inscription engraved on two two long slabs of white marble is still legible, and informs us that these towers had been repaired under Constantine and Bassilei [sic].⁴You then pass the Gate Top-Capoussi,⁵ or Gate of Cannon, so called from Mahomet II. having pointed his artillery against it. It was in that attack the unfortunate Constantine Paleologus lost both the empire and his life. The ruins of the Palace of Constantine the Great are still to be seen.

The remains of the Tower of Belisarius, who lived to experience Justinian's ingratitude, are almost entirely demolished.

We were not permitted to enter the Castle of the Seven Towers ; nor did we venture to approach very near, as our janissary apprehended that, being Christians, we might be fired upon from some of the windows. The castle is flanked by seven towers, from which it takes its name, and is surrounded by a very high wall. Two of the towers are of white marble. The treasures of the empire were formerly deposited here; but it is now used as a place of confinement for state prisoners, and particularly for the foreign ministers whose Court is at war with the Porte. While I was at Constantinople, the Russian Ambassador was confined here ; but the Turks allowed him one thousand pounds per month during the time he was deprived of his liberty. I beg leave, for the information of my younger class of readers, to mention here that the Mahometan era takes its date from the time Mahomet fled from Mecca to Medina, on account of the persecutions he experienced from the Government of that city. This is called hegira, which signifies " flight," and commenced on Friday, July the sixteenth, Anno Domini 622, the day on which he effected his escape and began to preach his doctrines and propagate his religion. On that day commences the first of their year, which consists of 354 days, and Muharrem, which answers to our July, is their first month.

The ceremonies of the Ramaden, month of March, when the Turkish Lent begins, are performed in the following manner.

As soon as the first moon of that month is perceived, information of it is immediately given to the cadi or whatever judge resides in each place. He immediately passes an act in his court for the commencement of the Fast. In garrison towns the people are acquainted of it by the firing of guns. Their mode of observing this fast is neither to eat, drink or smoke from sunrise till after sunset ; so that during that month they usually turn day into night and night into day. Pregnant women, invalids and travellers, or the military when encamped in time of war, are not compelled to a rigid observance of this fast ; but they are expected to perform it as soon as these legal impediments are removed. Having accomplished half of it, should these impediments again occur, so as to cause a second interruption of the fast, whatever number of days were wanting of the appointed term, they are afterwards obliged to complete. But these obligations are not incumbent on children till they have entered into their eleventh year.

Previous to this fast, it is a principle invariably observed, that all private enmities should subside. When two persons meet, between whom some animosity has subsisted, they both immediately manifest their inclination to forgive and forget what is past, by a mutual embrace. The ancient monastery of St. John next attracted our attention. There only remain of this ancient building one range of columns, of the aisle of the church, a Cistern supported by twenty-four columns, and a beautiful bath, which, as I have been informed, is solely consecrated to the use of the fair sex. It is forbidden, under pain of death, to pry into this sanctuary. But I prevailed on a Grecian beauty of fashion, with whom I had formed an acquaintance during my stay here, to give me the following particulars.

The baths for the ladies are constructed in the same manner as those for men. When a lady intends to go to the bath, an indulgence which a husband of a certain rank and fortune who has these conveniences in his own house seldom will grant, she covers herself with a double veil and is always accompanied by a female slave. As soon as they arrive they throw off their whole apparel, and in the simple and, it is to be hoped, the innocent attire of nature they pass three or four hours in various amusements. They are sometimes two hundred in number, some in the bath, others negligently lying on couches, while their young and beautiful slaves, disencumbered like their mistresses of all artificial covering, perfume and plait their hair. The news of the town and the daily petty occurrences, as may easily be imagined, furnish ample materials for mirth and conjectures of various kinds. This is a real relaxation for these poor women, who are deprived of all rational amusements, and are continually kept in a state of dependence and slavery. They laugh, sing and dance, and sometimes form plans of future pleasures and happiness, in the execution of which the Turkish ladies, in spite of their walls, slaves, matrons, eunuchs and mutes, are much more expert than our European women of fashion-as if it were the happy provision of human nature, that our spirit of intrigue should increase in proportion to the danger and difficulties we meet with in obtaining the enjoyment of a dear and beloved object.

I was very apropos diverted from these philosophical reflections, which otherwise might have carried me to an elaborate treatise on the subject, by Pauolo rushing into my apartment, to inform me that a spectacle of a most striking nature was to be seen-the Grand Signior's going to the chase-nor was I disappointed in my expectation, for the scene was very grand. The march began with four thousand janissaries on foot, in two lines, and armed with sticks only. They were followed by three hundred chiaour or carriers of the sublime commands, covered with gold and silver stuffs, and mounted on beautiful horses richly caparisoned. Next came fifteen horses for the use of the Grand Signior, led in hand and preceded by two hundred officers of the court in their respective gala dresses. The Grand Signior immediately followed, mounted on a beautiful Arabian, covered with gold brocade spangled with pearls and diamonds. He was surrounded by five hundred soulaces, body-guards. The viziers, grandees of the court, and first officers of the Seraglio marched in the rear.

We followed him into the fields, where he was only attended by his principal officers and two hundred falconers, each carrying a falcon in his hand. In a moment the plain was covered with these birds. I was sorry that I could not follow the party, for the sport seemed really delightful ; and this is the chase which the Turks prefer to all others. Being engaged to dine at the French Ambassador's, the Count De C-,⁶ where there was to be a ball in the evening, I took my leave of the Grand Signior with reluctance.

I had this day, also, for the first time, to try on my Turkish dress, which I had got made preparatory to my voyage to Syria, and I found myself so much at my ease in it that I could not be prevailed on to leave it off. I therefore went, dressed like an Arab, to Monsieur De Ch-, and prevailed on my friends to do the same. The whole company was in a high flow of spirits, and my Jerusalem expedition was the general topic of conversation, as it was my intention to set off on the Monday following. His Excellency asked me if it was a fact that I had a considerable wager depending on it.

I answered in the affirmative. The ladies were curious to know the amount of the sum, some pretending it to be fifteen or twenty, others thirty thousand pounds. As I had good reasons for not making it known that I had such a large sum depending on it, I evaded answering their questions. In the evening the company assembled to the number of one hundred persons ; and as there were more ladies than gentlemen, I was induced to dance, in spite of my Arabian dress ; and during the dance, which was English, I am convinced that my figure and movements were truly awkward and ridiculous.

My departure from Constantinople was delayed by a very dangerous illness, which I caught by going on a hunting party, when the intense cold of the morning and the heat of the meridian sun, together with the fatigue of walking for several days in the snow, brought on a fever of the most malignant kind, which left no hopes of my recovery to my friends or physicians.⁷ My strong constitution resisted the violence of the disorder, and notwithstanding a severe relapse, occasioned by my own imprudence, I was sufficiently recovered in the course of a month to be able to proceed on my journey.

But before I leave this city, may I be permitted to give a short sketch of some of the prevailing customs, manners, dress and religion of the Turks, such as they appeared to me from my own observations ?

The Turks of Europe and those of Asia are not alike. The former are valiant, industrious and laborious ; the latter idle, cowardly, and effeminate, totally ignorant of the arts and sciences. Hypocrisy is their distinguishing characteristic ; they are avaricious in the extreme ; but ostentatious, and so incontinent that their seraglio cannot satisfy their libidinous passions. Practices the most abominable, as well as the most unnatural, are added to the long catalogue of Turkish sensual gratifications.

Their avarice does not stop at any [sic] the most criminal means of acquiring riches, and yet they are equally prodigal of that ill-gotten wealth in purchasing dress and procuring sensual enjoyments. They are in general about the middle stature ; their features are regular and expressive ; their eyes and hair black. But owing to their manner of living they scarcely retain any traces of beauty after they have passed the prime of youth.

The inhabitants of Turkey are a mixture of different nations. No less than seventy-two different denominations of people, nations, religions, and sects are to be found among them, such as natural Turks, Arabs, Tartars, Moors of Africa, Wandering Tribes, Jews and Christians of all denominations.

The dress of the men consists of trousers, a long shirt cut in the same manner as those of the European ladies; a doliman, or sort of robe, which reaches to their ankles, has short and narrow sleeves, and is fastened by a girdle, which is of the greatest use to the Turks, as they carry their handkerchief, dagger and pistols in it, and place in its folds their money, tobacco and papers. Over the doliman they wear a larger robe, with long and wide sleeves : this is called feredge. It is made of fine stuffs, for summer, and in winter is lined with furs. They put on cloth stockings over their leather socks, in the form of buskins. Their shoes, called babouches, resemble slippers. Their head-dress is very ample; no less stuff being used in making their turbans than their robes, which renders them extremely heavy.

It is by the size and shape of the turban every man's rank and occupation is known. The variety of them is great, as the distinctions are so numerous. The emirs are supposed to be descended from the Prophet, and are always permitted to wear the green turban. I have [been] told that thirty yards of muslin are frequently used in this part of their dress.

The Rayacks wear the kalpac instead of the turban ; it is made of lambskin of a white, black or grey colour, and is not near so becoming as the turban. The Turks are very particular in these distinctions of dress ; and should a Christian or Jew venture to appear in a green turban, he would be torn to pieces. In Turkey, as well as throughout all parts of Greece, smoking is a prevailing habit in both sexes. By the length and beauty of the pipe you may judge the rank of the smoker. The mouthpiece is usually made of polished amber, the stem of jessamine, covered with scarlet or green cloth, richly embroidered ; the bowl is made of red clay, beautifully gilt. They mix with their tobacco, musk, aloes-wood, frankincense, etc., etc. This they manufacture with a white gum into small lozenges, one of which is put with the tobacco into the pipe. This composition improves the tobacco and diffuses a fragrance thro' the room. These lozenges are said to possess other virtues, but I never experienced any. There is another sort made in the Seraglio at Constantinople, which the grandees eat as well as smoke. These are very costly and used only in their harams, where it has other effects besides that of improving their tobacco.

The women are, in general, fat and lusty. Their dress resembles that of the man, except in its tightness, by which they endeavour to improve their shape. A gold or silver buckle, set in precious stones, fastens their girdle. Their drawers are of an extraordinary fulness. They wear Morocco slippers, and a little iron plate, like a crescent, forms the heel of their little boots, which they put on to walk. They have a kind of corslet under their robe, which leaves their neck uncovered, or merely veiled with a gauze. Diamonds form their principal riches ; they have bracelets of them ; aigrets, ear-rings, necklaces, watches, snuff boxes, and pin-cases of different sizes, to a very great value : nor is the propriety of wearing or possessing these jewels ever disputed with the women, in whatever circumstances their husbands may find themselves. When they walk out, they wrap themselves up in another long robe.

The dress of a woman of quality, tho' never seen in public, is far more costly than those worn in Europe. They wear a profusion of pearls, diamonds and other precious stones, with the richest stuffs and furs the most costly. That part of their dress next their skin is of the most extravagant price.

To sing in their houses is considered a mark of illbreeding, but to fall asleep in company incurs no such imputation.

Their bath is the most fashionable place or amusement, and it is considered as high a compliment to take your friend there as it would be in London to accompany her to the Opera. Their carriages scarcely deserve the name, being little better than carts. They are not on springs, and are closely shut up.

All the ladies in Turkey, of whatever religion they may be, keep themselves constantly veiled : which led an ill-natured cynic to make this observation, " that in Turkey alone vice is not barefaced." A large triangular handkerchief constitutes their veil ; it covers the whole face, and the ends are tied behind ; so that nothing of their face is to be seen but the eyes and the tip of the nose. They usually paint their nails and eyebrows with a plant called kene,⁸ which gives them a yellowish-red colour. They sometimes paint the hands and feet, describing thereon flowers, etc. They are great coquettes, and possess in a superior degree the art of deceiving their husbands and lovers. For this reason they are not allowed to walk out often, and are obliged to remain confined at home, passing the tedious hours in embroidering or conversing with their female attendants. The ladies of some Bashaws who are absent may be excepted from this restriction, as they are generally very fond of strangers; but such intrigues are not always carried on without danger. They are generally commenced at the Bezistan, where the jewellers, silversmiths and merchants keep their shops. When a lady meets a gentleman to whom she wishes to disclose her partiality, she gives him a gentle push with her elbow. If a lover wishes to insinuate himself into the good graces of a mistress, he approaches her window and indicates his passion by striking to his breast.

Jewish women are very expert in the art of favouring the Turkish ladies in their amours. They introduce into their apartments beautiful young men, under the disguise of female slaves, carrying various kinds of merchandize. Grecian and Armenian ladies enjoy more liberty ; yet they do not often go out. I was told that a young man, a violet-soap merchant, had so turned the heads of all the ladies at Constantinople that the Grand Signior was entreated by several Bashaws to send him into exile. Every man of wit, talents, or an agreeable figure, is sure to incur the displeasure and hatred of all the married part of the male community. In the country I have seen women bathing in a stream, who took no care to conceal themselves on perceiving that we were Christians. Our janissaries, however, advised us to act the part of Joseph ; else in case of a surprise, we might be accused of a capital crime : and, to my shame, I must confess that it was with much reluctance I followed so perfect an example.

The manner of salutation among the Turks is to lay the right hand on the heart and make a small inclination. If you approach a man of consequence, that is to say, - a very rich man, or a man holding a place under the government-for in Turkey, as is the case in many other places, a man meets with outward respect in proportion to his reputed riches, or the importance of his office-you take the end of his robe and kiss it with apparent respect. It would be an insult to take off your turban to anyone.

Their common nourishment consists of mutton, rice, peas and cucumbers. After their repast, they drink either water or whey. The sherbet, composed of lemonjuice, cherries and other fruits is reserved for the table of the affluent. They are not so abstemious at their feasts, and seldom leave the festive board before they are intoxicated with narcotic draughts. They do not often eat at each others' houses ; and pay but few ceremonial visits. The ladies are never admitted into company. The men, when together, devote the greatest part of their time to smoking. The master of the house himself presents to each of his guests a lighted pipe: perfumes are afterwards introduced, with coffee and sherbet. The company wash their hands in rosewater and dry them in the smoke of perfumes. The Turks are seen smoking everywhere, even in the streets and public walks.

Their only amusements are, to draw the bow, to go to the chase with falcons, and to play at chess, but 'tis considered a great sin to play for money. I once saw a young Turk launching a falcon against a wild duck, which immediately plunged into the water : the falcon followed it on the surface of the water, beating its wings whenever it lost sight of its prey. Another Turk, thinking that one falcon was not sufficient, sent his own to its assistance. This excited such a jealousy between the two birds that instead of offering mutual assistance they rushed furiously against each other, and had they not been separated the scuffle would have ended in the death of one or the other.

They likewise amuse themselves with equestrian exercises, for which purpose they often assemble at the Hippodrome, the large square which I have already noticed. There they separate in two bands and range themselves at the extremities. At each signal two riders armed with long lances start, and, rushing forward with the utmost violence, meet in their mid-career and parry with much skill the blows they aim at each other. I have seen several of them leap on and off their horses with as much adroitness as those at Astley's. Quoits also, and wrestling, constitute part of their diversions.

They are fond of cultivating flowers, particularly tulips. The highest compliment a Turk can pay you is to send you one of his tulips as a present. They have even instituted a festival in honour of this flower.

They have made some proficiency in the mechanical arts in general, and have manufactories of silk and cotton. Their watchmakers are all Armenians, Jews or Franks. They begin to think the Koran is not the only good book in the world, for they now apply themselves a little to history, and are very fond of absurd tales related of their own people. I had the curiosity to have the history of an inn-keeper of Constantinople translated. Love filled up two-thirds of this whimsical composition. He had been a pirate in his youth, and enriched himself by the capture of several Maltese vessels. His battles and victories over both sexes had rendered him famous. He then turned physician, and his skill in that profession procured him the honour and advantage of being employed in the Seraglio at Ispahan. He was afterwards sold as a slave, and in that state filled the office of steward and innkeeper. He mentions the various love-letters he wrote. A Turkish billet-doux is both simple and ingenious, of which the Turkish ladies often avail themselves, as they can without much danger of discovery communicate their wishes, and carry on their intrigues, by means of this species of hieroglyphics, in which they use neither pen, ink or paper ; but put into a purse bits of straw, a few grains of wheat, some salt, a bit of wood, a bit of cord, a grape-stone, or the like trifles, each of which has its separate signification, and this composition answers all the purposes of our best-written love-letters.

I took a copy of one of these curious letters, which I shall transcribe.

He sent, in a purse, a grape-stone, a straw, a jonquil, a match, some paper, and gold thread, which have the ` following signification
The grape-stone... uzum ... My eyes.
The straw ... hazir ... Suffer that I be your slave.
The jonquil ... pull ... Be sensible to my love.
The match ... gizo ... I burn, I burn, my flame consumes me.
The paper ... kileal ... My senses are bewildered.
The gold thread ... til ... I am dying, come to my relief.

Most of these words are taken from the Arabic, which is the richest language in the world.

The Turkish ladies affect the most favourable opinion of their husbands in every respect, so that when they are not blessed with those fruits of love so much wished for in the married state, they always ascribe it to a defect in themselves, and to atone for their supposed sterility they introduce into their haram the most beautiful young girls they can procure. A child is generally the issue of this truly condescending kindness, which is considered legitimate and inherits as if so in reality.

It is not more strange than true that the opulent eunuchs frequently have women in their seraglios, and these the most beautiful. These poor creatures become free on the decease of their patrons, when they make up for their lost time during their slavery.

The plague is not more dangerous in Turkey than a fever is in London or Paris. But physicians are not to be had there as in France or England. The most malignant kind is said to be generated in Egypt. It is supposed to be wafted to Constantinople by the winds that prevail for months together at the summer solstice; and never fails to take its leave upon the arrival of the autumnal equinox, when the winds blow strongly from the north. It seems to be the general opinion that those who have been once afflicted with this dreadful disorder are never known to take it a second time. But this I must, from good authority, take the liberty of contradicting. My servant Pauolo assured me that he had been three times afflicted with the plague; and shewed me the marks of its venom, by the cicatrices on all parts of his body. Persons of a strong constitution are more liable to take the infection than those of a delicate frame. The first symptom of this disorder is a violent headache accompanied with a burning thirst, which is followed by a weakness and almost total loss of [? the use of] the limbs, and people in the last stage of it are seen staggering about the streets as if violently intoxicated; and tho' it is so universally known that the disorder can be taken by the touch only, yet so inconsiderate are the Turks, that they take no precaution to keep out of the way of persons infected ; nor indeed would a good Mussulman think himself justifiable in leaving his house, tho' every individual in it were infected, such is the force of predestination : no wonder, then, this disorder should make such ravages among this barbarous and ignorant race. But how much must the reader's indignation be kindled, and every sentiment of pity for such insensate barbarians be suppressed, when he is told that the very clothes and cushions on which the afflicted had died are sold the day after in a public place appointed for that purpose, and immediately worn by the purchaser, without even the precaution of fumigation or airing. From all the information I have been able to collect on this subject, I have no doubt that the plague is neither more or less than a violent fever, of the malignant putrid kind, which, if treated at Constantinople as such disorders are treated in London, would in all probability be as easily cured. But I have already observed that they have no physicians among them, nor can they, consistently with their absurd tenets and doctrine, admit of medical assistance even in extreme cases. In the Plague of 1785, the most destructive that has happened this century, no less than 5,000 died every day. Prayers are never offered to the deity to stop its ravages till the mortality arrives to such a height that only one less than a thousand are carried out at the same gate to the Burying-ground. It is then deemed advisable to invoke the Prophet, and the Turks assemble for this purpose in their Mosques.

Sir Robert A- assured me that during his residence at Constantinople, for twelve years, he knew but few instances of Europeans dying of the plague : to their manner of living in respect to diet, but more especially to a strict attention to cleanliness, may be ascribed their escaping this dreadful disorder.

During the time the plague is thought to rage, which is only when two or three hundred persons die daily, the Franks shut up their houses, and all intercourse outward is at an end till such time as the disorder ceases.

There are persons who for a fixed salary attend the palaces of the ministers and respectable merchants' houses, and furnish them with provisions of all kinds in the following manner. A large tub or cistern of water is placed under the most convenient window in the house, into which is plunged all the butcher's-meat that is intended for the consumption of those within, where, after it has lain a sufficient time to wash away any infection it may have caught, a bell is rung by the caterer, when a basket is suspended from the window and the provisions are drawn up, by which means all danger is avoided.

The police of Constantinople is very vigilant. The shops must be shut with the setting sun, and the patrols, during the night, stop every person they meet in the street.

When a Vizier, Bashaw, or great officer of the empire is doomed to die, the Emperor sends him a cord by one of his mutes, and the criminal has the privilege of being his own executioner. Private individuals do not enjoy such an enviable prerogative : they are either hanged or empaled alive: the latter is one of the most cruel tortures. The criminal is stript naked, and laid on the ground. The executioner then opens the lower part of his body with a razor and by repeated strokes drives a sharp pointed stake, eight feet long and very thick, into the lacerated passage till it comes out at the extremity of the shoulder. The sufferer is then set upright, his hands are tied to the stake, and the mob are suffered to load him with abuse and execrations.

When the Grand Signior appears in public, if any subject has a complaint to make, he places a lighted flambeau, or some burning coals in an earthen pot, on his head, and thus presents himself to the Emperor, who is obliged to hear his petition.

This prince in summer and winter dines at ten in the morning, and sups at six in the afternoon. He sits crosslegged on cushions, a napkin is placed on his knees, and another on his left arm, for the purpose of wiping his hands. A piece of morocco serves him for a table, on which are placed three or four different sorts of excellent new bread, quite warm, suitable to the general taste of the Turks. He uses neither knives or forks, and such is the plainness and simplicity of the sideboard that two wooden spoons compose the whole apparatus of the table, one for the soup and the other for the syrups, for by the laws of his Prophet he is not allowed to use any other at his meals. He seldom drinks more than once at each repast, and he has always before him a number of mutes and dwarfs, who endeavour to amuse him by their buffooneries.

The Turks shew their taste for magnificence in their public buildings only. Their houses are very simple, and are but two stories high. It is customary to have some passages selected from the Koran written on the doors and windows. In the yard of every house stands a little fountain, surrounded with verdure. The staircase is a kind of ladder, with a roof over it. The furniture of their rooms consists of mats and carpets along the walls, with large sofas instead of chairs. They always sit crosslegged leaning on cushions. No beds are to be seen, being put up into presses constructed for the purpose. When the Turks lie down they put on a small turban instead of a night-cap. They always keep a lamp burning in their bed-room, and sometimes two heated stoves, one on each side. If they awake during the night, they order coffee to be brought, smoke a pipe, and eat some pastry. The house of a nobleman generally occupies a large space of ground, and is surrounded by very high walls. The apartments of the women are secured by double doors and guarded by eunuchs or matrons. The ceilings are either gilt or painted, and the floor is of marble or china.

When a Turk wishes to marry he sends to the parents of the intended bride, to demand their conditions. If they agree, they join hands and the bargain is concluded. This ceremony is finished by a prayer from the Koran. Afterwards the bride, covered with a red veil, is led to her spouse, who for that evening is obliged to discharge the office of chambermaid and put her to bed. It is usual on these occasions for the lady to have the strings of her dress tied with double knots, which the impatient lover is eager to loose, and by that means time is given to the young woman to say her prayers ; sometimes to laugh at the awkwardness and precipitate impatience of her lover, and to make serious reflections or entertain fantastic notions of the new state of life into which she is just going to enter. A Turk is allowed to marry four wives, and keep as many concubines as his circumstances will allow. A wife has a right to institute an action in several cases, particularly if he is not observant of his conjugal duties, a tribute which is commonly fixed on Thursday evening or Friday morning, the time of the week usually consecrated to this purpose.

Their interments do not materially differ from ours. The loud lamentations of the women is the principal ceremony at the death of a Turk, which they continue till the corpse is laid under ground. The men carry the bier on their shoulders, and the women scatter flowers on the tomb every Monday and Friday, and with much importunity inquire of the dead why he chose to die ! They wear black for mourning, and leave off their jewels.

The janissaries amount to one hundred thousand. They sometimes render themselves formidable to the nation, and even to the Emperor himself. Five thousand of them mount guard every day at the Palace. The Emperor orders provisions to be distributed among them. If they are dissatisfied, they shew it on that occasion by overturning the dishes with their feet, in which case every attempt is made to pacify them. Their first institution was under Morad 2nd, and [? they] were composed of young Bulgarians and Macedonians, sent in tribute to Constantinople. They were originally called hadgini, which in the Turkish language signifies " strangers ; " afterwards janissaries or " new soldiers." Most of them have some trade, are allowed many privileges and exempt from duties to which the rest of the army are subject. Corporal punishment is not inflicted on them where death is not merited. In such cases they are allowed the privilege of being strangled; whilst others for similar offences are empaled or decapitated.

The janissaries are looked upon as the finest troops of the empire, and are styled infantry ; yet those who are sufficiently wealthy to purchase horses, are allowed to do so, and are therefore a confused body of horse and foot without order or discipline. Their cavalry is divided into twenty legions, and are totally ignorant of tactics. They are commanded by the chief of the artillery. Their cannon are enormously heavy, and are generally drawn by buffaloes.

There are many corps of volunteers, who choose their own officers. Their sole motive for embodying themselves arises from the hope of plunder. They receive no pay till they arrive at their quarters ; and to defray the expenses of their journey they generally plunder the traveller. On their arrival at the camp, they receive the same pay as the janissaries.

They get no clothing from government, and therefore have no kind of uniform, so that every individual dresses as he pleases.

The arms of the wealthy are highly ornamented with silver. They consist of a gun slung over the shoulder ; a long case of pistols which they carry under a belt ; likewise a dagger and sabre, the " cutter," as sharp as a razor and very crooked. They charge with great impetuosity, the sabre in the form of tierce over the head, and aim at the throat of their enemy ; but they are soon broke by the German Horse, owing to their steady coolness and discipline.

The army is divided into three encampments, none of which they ever take the precaution or advantage of entrenching. They pitch their tents, without any order, near the most convenient watering place. In the centre is the Grand Vizier's camp. On the right the Agha's, who is second in command ; and on the left is the artillery.

Their tents are very magnificent. I was told that in the late war the Grand Vizier's cost no less a sum than 100,000 piastres. A retreat is always followed by a total defeat, as they never take any steps to secure themselves from surprise. On these occasions they grow quite outrageous, and frequently rob and murder each other. In one of their campaigns they attacked the Grand Vizier's tent, which contained the military chest, in which much treasure was deposited. They carried it off, and at the same time destroyed his beautiful pavilion. So much for their order and discipline in 1789. Since that period, I have heard that some considerable improvement has taken place, and that the present Sultan Selim ⁹ has introduced French tactics, and employs many engineers, all of whom are French.

Footnotes

1 Obviously an error. He reached Constantinople 14 Dec. (p. 102), and left 21st Jan. following (p. 155).
2 Le., Khasseki Jam?.
3 Verde antico-the green breccia used for ornamental sculpture by the ancients, sometimes marked with small red or black spots.
4 i.e., Constantine IX. and Basil II., who reigned together from 969 to 1025.
5 Kapusi.
6 Choiseul-Gouffier.
7 See Appendix, extract from Moore's journal.
8 i.e., Henna.
9 Le., Selim 111., 1789-1807.