[From Buck Whaley's Memoirs]

CHAPTER IV.

Constantinople-Pera-Dancing Boys-The Grand Signior's Procession to St. Sophia-View of Constantinople-The Grand Signior's Barges -Mosque of St. Sophia-The Character of Capitan Pasha-Our Reception-The Turkish Fleet-Dervishes-The Seraglio.

AT Constantinople, as well as in other European capitals, you are obliged on your arrival first to proceed to the Custom-house, not so much for the purpose of paying the duties imposed by Government as to satisfy the rapacity of its Officers; and we found that money had as much effect on this bearded gentry, as on our Christian tide-waiters. We were immediately dismissed, and repaired to a house, which is called the French Tavern, where, having dressed ourselves as expeditiously as possible, [we] went to pay our respects to our Ambassador, Sir R- A-,¹ for whom we had letters from England. He received us with all that affability and good nature so congenial to the character of that worthy gentleman. Here we met several of our intimate friends, and the hospitality and convivial manners of his Excellency, to whose table we were invited during our stay at Constantinople, made us soon forget all our sufferings from fatigue and hunger during our journey from Smyrna to this place.

December the 15th.

This was the day I had fixed upon to be at Jerusalem, it being my birthday: yet as I had sufficient time before me, I did not feel myself disappointed. It was proposed that we should make a party to the "Sweet waters." This is a remarkable place for snipe-shooting, and runs through the Grand Signior's plantations. We accompanied Capt. F-² of the Pearl frigate on board his ship, and were joined there by many of the British officers. The Grand Signior has on this little river, which empties itself into the harbour of Constantinople, a very fine Kiosk, a tuakish, or summer-house, with many temples erected on its banks. There is great abundance of grass here in the summer, and it is on these meadows the Arabs encamp who attend the Grand Signior's horses, which are turned out in April for the remainder of the summer. We had but little diversion, but the beauties of the place made us ample recompense for this disappointment. In the spring and autumn, this river is the fashionable resort of the grandees of the metropolis, where they come in the most splendid barges of fifty and sixty feet in length, rowed by their eunuchs and accompanied by their women.

We walked afterwards about the town of Pera, and paid visits to some English ladies. Pera is a Greek word, signifying " beyond," this suburb being situated beyond'' the gate of Galata. This is a most delightful situation, from which you have a view of the coast of Asia, and the Seraglio of the Grand Signior. The English, French, Venetian and Dutch ambassadors have their palaces here. Those of the Emperor and the King of Poland reside at Constantinople. The foreign merchants have their dwellings and warehouses at Pera as well as at Galata, amongst Jews, Greeks, Turks and Armenians. The French Palace is a most beautiful building, and contains a chapel which was kept by Capuchin friars.

We visited the Gun Wharf and saw some brass guns singularly constructed. They were of uncommon length, particularly a sixty-two pounder above twenty-five feet long, and many others as extraordinary in various respects, which did not induce us to entertain a favourable opinion of the Turkish ordnance, or the progress this nation has made in the artillery branch of military science, notwithstanding the assurances Monsieur de Tott has given us of his having brought it to the highest pitch of perfection at Constantinople.

December the 16th.

We dined at Monsieur de B-'s,³ the Spanish Envoy, where we had a most splendid entertainment. This gentleman was well acquainted with Irish hospitality, and gave us a great variety of most excellent wines. He promised us letters for the Terra Sancta at Jerusalem. This was a most desirable offer ; as that convent is principally maintained by the bounty of the Spanish Court ; and these letters afterwards proved of the greatest service to us, both at Jerusalem and in many other places in the Holy Land.

We were likewise so fortunate as to be introduced to Madame la Baronne de H-,⁴ who engaged us to accompany her the following day to Buyukdereh, a beautiful village on the Canal at the entrance of the Black Sea, where she had a country house, and intended soon to give a fete champêtre. This was too agreeable a party to be refused. His Excellency was likewise engaged, who mounted us on his horses, and rode himself a most beautiful Arabian which had been presented to him by the Capitan Pasha. We had a most charming ride of twelve miles, and on our arrival were introduced by the lady to her beloved consort, whom I soon discovered to be a great botanist, and famous for the cultivation of rare and curious plants. This gentleman, between whom and his youthful wife there was a great disparity of years, spent most of his time in his garden, while her ladyship contented herself with now and then paying a visit to a most beautiful geranium flower, which was occasionally placed in one room or another of the castle. He had been married before and had a daughter a few months elder than her beautiful step-mother ; so that there existed a kind of jealousy between these ladies, who should please or be noticed most, a circumstance which generally turned to the advantage of the visitors ; and it was not difficult to discover that Mademoiselle Curregonde, rather than remain in her present state, would do anything to be placed under the protection of a husband, even were he as old as her father. However, we must not be too severe on those ladies, who made us spend two very agreeable days. Their hospitality, their engaging manners, I shall remember with the most lively sense of respect and gratitude.

December the 10th.

We got up by sunrise fully determined to make the best use of the day, in visiting and examining the different curiosities of Constantinople. We stopt at a sort of Turkish Tavern or Coffee-house, to see the Dancing Boys who are kept at those places

There were two Turks at breakfast in the gallery who were entertaining themselves in a manner horrid to the ideas of a rational being. Those boys have a method of cracking their fingers and fixing little bells to their wrists, with which they produce sounds and play tunes that are much admired. Being disgusted with this species of entertainment, I hastened from the horrid scene.

We went next to see the Grand Signior go to the Mosque of St. Sophia, which was by far the finest masquerade that was ever exhibited. As my talent at the descriptive would not enable me to do justice to the grandeur of this curious procession, I endeavoured to supply the deficiency by a sketch which I made on the spot ; but which I unfortunately lost on my return from the Continent, with a collection of many other valuable drawings.⁵ I regret this loss the more, at present, as it deprives me of the satisfaction of presenting a print of it to my subscribers.

The Grand Signior sets off from the Seraglio at nine o'clock in the morning, to go to the Mosque of St. Sophia, or of Osmenie, the latter being the burial place of all the Ottoman Princes. There is on those occasions a degree of magnificence displayed in the dresses of the various guards and officers of the household, in their turbans and plumes, of which an European who never visited the Eastern countries can have no idea. Their fine horses with the uncommon riches of their trappings have an appearance of pomp and splendour that far surpasses that of any European Court, while the abject homage which the Sultan receives from his subjects, and the unrivalled grandeur of the exhibition inspires a stranger with a momentary idea, that, the pompous title of " King of Kings," which the Grand Signior arrogates to himself, is realised, and that he absolutely beholds the greatest of earthly sovereigns.

On our return we met with a very uncommon kind of vehicle, much resembling a covered cart, which is used by the Turkish ladies of fashion, who are seated in it cross-legged on a mat. I perceived ten in the one I met, stowed together in such a manner that they must have suffered extremely from the heat, as there was but one small window to admit the air. I was informed that this fine equipage, drawn by two buffaloes, was the property of a renegado who was formerly a rich French merchant, and having failed, thought proper to change his religion in order to meliorate his circumstances, in which he has so well succeeded that he is now able to keep seven wives and concubines without number. I could not help wondering or doubting whether his temperament had increased proportionately with his wealth and years.

At one I set off accompanied by Capt. F-⁶ to see the Grand Signior's Barges. The Canal of Constantinople, from the entrance of the Harbour to the Towers at the head of the Black Sea, affords one of the finest coup-d'ceils in the world.

On entering the Harbour, there is on the left the Seraglio of the Grand Signior with its extensive gardens and lofty walls ; afterwards you see the superb Mosques, raising their heads above the other buildings, which in Constantinople are generally but one or two stories high. On the right the view is terminated towards the " Sweet waters," by a magnificent Kiosk belonging to the Grand Signior, where he has likewise very extensive gardens. On the front, along the rising ground, is the Arsenal, Pera, Galata and the other suburbs of Constantinople. The beautifully situated town of Scutari also attracts the attention of the traveller, besides numberless other neat villages that extend the whole length of the Bosphorus, both on the European and Asiatic side, as far as the mouth of the Black Sea. The number of ships of all nations, besides Tartans, Schebecks, and the most magnificent Barges, with which the river is always covered, and the hundreds of Kiakas filled with ladies, with their proprietors going on parties of pleasure, give the most lively appearance to the scene ; and one cannot help regretting that so heavenly a spot should be in the possession of such barbarians. From the peculiar advantages of its situation, it is admirably well calculated to be the seat of the arts, as well as the emporium of the most extensive commerce. What a pity that with all these advantages this capital should be doomed to remain subject to a barbarous despot, whose character seems merely a compound of ignorance and tyranny.

The Grand Signior's Barges surpass anything of the kind in pomp and grandeur. The largest of these wonderful pleasure boats is ninety-six feet in length, ornamented in the most costly manner. They have from forty-eight to sixty oars, and have canopies, each of a different construction, supported on ivory or silver and gilded columns, exquisitely wrought. Under the canopy the Grand Signior seats himself on a carpet of the most costly embroidery, which commonly costs upwards of twenty-five thousand piastres, or two thousand five hundred pounds sterling, and which is always the last brought from Mecca. The gun-holes are of solid silver, beautifully carved in Turkish characters, and the magnificence as well as taste displayed throughout the whole is really astonishing. Notwithstanding the ornaments with which these boats are loaded, they are well constructed for swiftness, being built sharp, somewhat resembling those on the Thames.

Every year an immense caravan sets out from Constantinople to Mecca, to visit the Tomb of the Holy Prophet. It consists of persons of the first rank in Turkey, and of no less than three, four and sometimes five thousand pilgrims. The Grand Signior always sends costly presents for the Sepulchre of Mahomet, among which is a carpet to cover the Tomb, and the one sent the year preceding is brought back to Constantinople and placed in the Seraglio. On that carpet the Sultan is usually seated when he appears in state ; and it [is] considered by all good Musulmen as the safest and most. sacred guard the Grand Signior could have in his Palace, in case of an insurrection taking place at Constantinople, where his person might be in danger.

On the following day we visited the Mosque of St. Sophia, which is worthy of notice, both on account of its antiquity and structure. On our arrival the Imam made some difficulty about admitting us, which however our janissary soon removed. We gave three Venetian sequins for allowing us to ascend the gallery, from which the whole inside may be seen, as Christians. are never permitted to enter the lower part of the Mosque without a firman to that effect, which is an order from the Grand Signior written by his own hand.

This building is of an oblong square, two hundred and fifty feet in length and one hundred and eighty in breadth. It stands east and west, according to the Grecian custom, and forms the figure of a cross. It is said to have been begun by the architect Artemius ⁷ and finished by Isodorus.⁸ Four immense columns, united by arches, support a cupola of a vast magnitude. It was, formerly ornamented with mosaic work, which the Turks have almost entirely demolished. At the head of the cross stood formerly the Sanctum Sanctorum. The ancient altar has been destroyed to make way for the mehrabe, or Turkish altar, towards which the Turks turn themselves when at prayer. It is only a niche in which is placed a very large book of the Koran, with a green veil, and a pair of immense chandeliers are suspended on each side. Near it is a kind of corridor in which the Grand Signior adores his Prophet : it is but little ornamented, and has gilt blinds. Here the Sultan is. obliged to come almost every Friday to offer his,. devotions : and I have been informed that if he were often to neglect this duty, it would occasion a rebellion. The floor of the Mosque is mostly covered with carpets,: and is of a very fine marble of the island of Marmora. The columns of the galleries are likewise of the most beautiful marbles of various kinds.

The building is in many places in the most ruinous, condition. Many of the columns are held together by iron hoops, and it is probable that the slightest shock of an earthquake would bring this boasted monument of ancient architecture to the ground.

This Mosque has four minarets, one of which is built on the ancient steeple, and of a different architecture from the others. The souchtar, or Turkish priest, ascends five times a day to the highest gallery and calls the faithful to prayer.

On leaving the Mosque we intended to go on a sailing party, but the day being too windy we were obliged to give up the idea, and returned to visit the different line-of-battle ships that were laid up at Tersakhaneh. We only ventured to examine their outside, as the plague was then raging on board, and our curiosity was not quite so violent as to overcome our apprehensions of danger. These vessels have much useless finery about them, being encumbered with carved images, painted, or rather daubed over, in green and gold. They mount cannon of different calibres on their main deck, and carry nothing but swivels on the others ; trusting more to their pistols and sabres than to the guns, which are very badly worked by their sailors.

We received at this time a message from the Capitan Pasha, brought to us by the Ambassador's dragoman, informing us that we might wait on him the following day. He likewise gave us to understand, that we should be obliged to take off our shoes at the door, in conformity to the custom of the Turks. We did not relish the idea of walking bare-footed, but must have submitted to it had not the Capitan Pasha sent an order that he would dispense with that ceremony.

Before I give an account of our reception, I must introduce this extraordinary character to my readers, such as he was represented to me by several persons of the highest respectability, and particularly by Sir R- A-.⁹

Hassan Pasha is now in his seventy-sixth year : he was born at Teflis in Georgia ; from whence, when a boy, he was brought to Constantinople and sold as a slave. His first master soon dying, he passed through various hands, and went at last to Algiers in the service of a Turk who fell a victim to the plague. Hassan was immediately seized and 'sold to pay off some of his deceased master's debts. Being of a very fine figure and lively disposition, he was purchased for the Dey, and entered into his service where he remained for some years, till an opportunity presented itself of making his escape : this he effected in a Spanish corn vessel, trading from Algiers to the port of Carthagena. Having taken a little money with him, he procured his passage in a vessel bound to the coast of Italy, from whence he crossed into Dalmatia, and proceeded to Constantinople, where he entered in the capacity of cagliongi, a post one step higher than a common sailor, on board the Turkish Fleet. By his good behaviour in [this] station he soon obtained advancement, and was gradually promoted to the rank of Kapitan or Commander of a ship. He filled this post at the time the Turkish Fleet was burnt and destroyed by the Russians, in the bay of Cismi,¹⁰ commanded by Count Alexander Orlow, in the year 1771. He shewed so much gallantry and good conduct in that unfortunate affair, that on the death of the High Admiral, who fell a victim to the poignancy of his grief two years afterwards, he was appointed his successor. He has for fifteen years past filled this important station with much credit and honour to himself. He has always held the highest place in the confidence of his capricious sovereign ; and enjoys the happiness of seeing himself both loved and feared by all the officers and sailors of the fleet, and is looked up to by his country as its principal ornament and support. Though he is now in an advanced age, he appears both healthy and robust : he has a fine open manly countenance but strongly expressive of that ungovernable ferocity which manifests itself on certain occasions, and which may rather be attributed to the want of a liberal education and to that general system of despotism which exists in that country, and in a certain degree pervades every class, than to any propensity to cruelty with which his disposition might be naturally tinctured. He is brave almost to a degree of temerity, active, strong andvigorous. In his youth he excelled all his companions in their exercises. He managed his horses with more address, threw his arrow to a greater distance and with more judgment than any man. Impelled by his vigorous arm, the gerite ¹¹ flew with unerring precision and double velocity. He uses his pistols and sabre with superior skill : but his pre-eminence was most conspicuous at the public spectacles of the Grand Signior in the circus, where the young men opposed themselves in fierce combat to the lion, or other ferocious animals and where the meed of victory constantly adorned Hassan's brow. Courageous, generous, benevolent and, except when under the immediate influence of passion, most humane ; impartial in his official distribution of rewards and punishments ; warm and sincere in his attachments ; affable and courteous to his inferiors ; ever ready to alleviate distress ; but implacable in his enmity to oppressor ; it is only to be lamented that a character rendered brilliant by so many excellent qualities was not destined to shine under the more happy influence of a Christian Government, where the prejudices inseparable from a Turkish education, which have been productive of the only blemish that tarnishes so bright a character, could never have existed.

In the high post he enjoys as Lord High Admiral, his privileges are very nearly as great as those of the most despotic prince, and the lives of all his inferiors are at his disposal.

At all the conflagrations in the city or suburbs of Constantinople, which are pretty frequent, the Grand Signior, Grand Vizier, and Capitan Pasha are obliged to assist, in order to animate by their presence and persuasion those [who] are employed in putting out the flames. The last of these great personages who arrives forfeits a certain sum of money, one thousand Venetian sequins, in favour of the first. The Capitan Pasha is constantly the first, though he is by many years the eldest of the three. On the night of the twenty-first, when a fire broke out in the palace of the Grand Vizier, who was with the army, the Capitan Pasha was at his beautiful villa, situated about four miles from Constantinople. He was immediately informed of it, and in a moment set off on horseback, with forty attendants, and reached town in less than twenty minutes, though the road was scarcely passable, being covered with snow some feet deep, and the night unusually dark ; so that out of his forty attendants, one only was able to keep up with him, all the rest having been thrown from their horses, and unable or unwilling to follow him.

Now for an account of our audience. At ten in the morning I set out, accompanied by the Hon. Captain F-,¹² and the officers of the Pearl frigate, for Top-Hanna, where we found the boats of the Captain and his first lieutenant waiting for us. The men were dressed in their Barge jackets, and the officers in their full uniforms. We proceeded by water to Capitan Pasha's palace and arrived at the Gate of the Seraglio in less than a quarter of an hour. On entering the first Court we were met by the dragoman of the Palace, who with a suite of attendants conducted us through a range of apartments to the Levée room, where we found the Pasha ready to receive us.

He was seated in state, on superb cushions ; behind, according to custom was a display of all his most costly arms, beautifully mounted on gold, silver and precious stones. We were all struck with the noble air and countenance of this venerable and truly respectable old man. He rose half way from his seat to receive us : this was considered as the greatest condescension possible on his part ; as a Turk is scarcely ever known to rise to salute a Christian, and it was a matter of astonishment to his officers and attendants. He was most superbly dressed and wore his turban of state, a white band round his forehead, and a high cap with a large diamond feather. The Levee room was very large, furnished å la turque with beautiful cushions spread upon the ground. He ordered us to be seated. I had the honour of sitting at one side of him and Captain F- at the other ; the other gentlemen were seated in a semicircle at the end of the apartment. He began the conversation by telling us that he had always loved the English nation ; inquired much after our ambassador, who he said was a man of courage and probity, who could be depended upon. He took notice of my [clothes], which in comparison to his were short indeed. I informed him of my intention of visiting the Holy Land, and that consequently I was preparing myself for the long dress. This idea seemed to afford him great amusement, and he was so polite as to offer me letters of protection to all the different Governors and Kapitans commanding in the Mediterranean, and even promised to procure me a firman from the Grand Signior. I said everything I could to testify my gratitude, and presented him at the same time with a remarkable telescope, with which he was very much delighted ; the more so, as he had lately broken the only one in his possession, and had not had an opportunity of replacing it. I likewise presented him with a pistol which from its peculiar construction could fire seven balls one after another, with one loading ; it cost me one hundred guineas. But Capitan Pasha, not wishing to be behind hand with me in point of generosity, sent me the following day a most beautiful pelice, and a whole bottle of Otto de rose, which in England as well as in Turkey is worth four hundred pounds, as it required no less than twelve acres of roses to produce that quantity.

We were then served by a vast number of attendants with fifty different kinds of refreshments, such as cakes, sweetmeats, etc. Each article was served by a different servant, all dressed in the richest robes of embroidered satin : another slave carried an embroidered muslin napkin richly ornamented with gold and silver fringe and spangles: nor was a napkin carried by the same person twice, and this was changed as often as a different kind of sweetmeats was offered ; this sort of luxury being carried so far that we were not permitted even to wipe ourselves a second time with the same napkin. There could not be less than two hundred attendants, all armed with a fine case of pistols, and a sabre large and sharp enough to cut off the head of an ox.

After this procession of sweetmeats, coffee was served, and then Otto of roses to perfume the beard. Pipes came afterwards, and I having by this time learned to smoke, shewed myself quite an adept in the art. Having stayed about an hour and a quarter, we took our leave and asked permission to see the Pasha's stables, which he readily granted, and which was considered as the greatest honour he could pay us ; as the Turks, among other superstitious notions, firmly believe that if a Christian cast his eyes on their children and horses, the two principal objects of their affection and attention, they are thereby exposed to the danger of losing their eyes.

We were conducted to the stables by the Master of Horse. We went through several vast apartments and descended by a flight of steps into a private passage, through which we passed into the stables. They contained upwards of one hundred horses, most of which were exquisitely beautiful : they were chiefly Arabian, and many well worth one thousand guineas in England. Each horse had his proper attendant, and though the stables were very spacious, there was scarcely room to move, as the grooms had all assembled in expectation of receiving some presents from me. I gave them but a trifle, with which they appeared much satisfied. All the horses were in the highest condition, and their coats as fine as satin, which considering that it was December, and the coldest weather remembered at Constantinople for some years, was a remarkable and astonishing circumstance.

We stayed an hour in this place, and were returning to take leave, when, as we had advanced some way into a large apartment, I perceived the Capitan Pasha and several of his attendants on their knees. Our Dragoman came up too late to prevent me from being noticed, and we were going to retire when the Capitan made a sign and said that we should not mind him but walk on through the megite or private chapel. This was another remarkable instance of his politeness ; as it is considered by the generality of Turks highly degrading to be distracted by any object when at their devotion, especially in the presence of a Christian. His prayers did not continue above five minutes when he arose and gave orders that we should be shewn into a Kiosk belonging to the Grand Signior, where he seldom comes but in the summer, and then incognito to see the Pasha, who had made a present of it to the Grand Signior. It is of an octagonal form, most beautifully fitted up, with a fountain in the centre. The floor is of the finest variegated marble, and the whole surpassed in elegance everything of the kind I had ever seen. I was credibly informed it cost the Capitan Pasha upwards of fifteen thousand pounds.

Our boats had been ordered round to one of the doors of this beautiful building, close to the water, so that from the Kiosk we took our leave and stept into them. We saw him peep through the window blinds and laugh excessively when the Barge-men dropt their oars together in the water. I heard afterwards from Sir R- A-¹³ that he liked the practice exceedingly, and intended to introduce it into the Turkish Navy.

The Turks send every year a Naval armament to the different islands and provinces bordering on the sea coast. This fleet is regulated as to the strength and number of the ships by the magnitude of the services which it is meant or expected to perform. If the Porte is not engaged in war with any foreign power, it is commonly composed of five or six ships. They collect the enormous taxes to which all those islands are subject ; particularly those inhabited by Greeks and other Franks. Before they set sail an annual ceremony is observed and performed with as much pomp and ostentation as if preparations were making against a most powerful enemy. And, as it may give a further idea of eastern magnificence, I shall give the same description of it that was given me by a well-informed gentleman who was witness to it last year.

On the fourth of May, at eight in the morning, the Sultan repairs in his Barge of State to one of his kiosks, built close to the water. He is attended by his chamberlains and officers of State, his janissaries, pages, Body and inferior Guards parading around their Sovereign in different Barges according to their respective ranks. The Sultan is seated under a superb canopy till he arrives at his kiosk. He is soon followed by the Grand Vizier, who takes his station close to the Wharf in his Barge. On this occasion the harbour is covered with boats belonging to the different noblemen, with their women, come in the greatest pomp to be spectators of this beautiful sight.

The Capitan Pasha on his side embarks with great solemnity at Casum Pasha,¹⁴ the place where the ships are stationed and where he has a Palace, in a galley of fifty oars rowed by slaves. He is attended by three whole and three half galleys, and by a vast number of boats, in which people of the first consequence come to pay their respects to him.

This procession is conducted with so much solemnity and deliberation, that they are two hours rowing to the Grand Signior's kiosk, though but a mile's distance. The Pasha's galley being arrived abreast of the Wharf, he goes on shore attended by the Captains of the different ships under his command, and there he is received by one of the Officers of State, who invests him with a garment, the insignia of his office. He is then conducted by two cauci into the presence of the Grand Signior, who wishes him success in his enterprize, and a happy and safe return. He then takes leave and returns to his Barge, where he is received with a general salute from all the galleys, all the ships in the harbour, and afterwards by the batteries of Top-Hanna. He next proceeds along the Canal to the village of Besci Jacci, near the Black Sea, on the European side of the Canal, where he receives. a grand entertainment from the Prime Vizier. This last ceremony over, he departs for his station.

December the 23rd.

.Having heard much said respecting the ceremonies of the Dervishes, I proposed to my companion to pay them a visit this morning. As they wish to make the bystanders believe that they are actuated by inspiration and religious zeal to the horrid deeds they commit on themselves, they are always pleased to see strangers, particularly Giaours, Christian dogs, witness their ceremonies, in hopes of obtaining the reward which is reserved for them if they convert any one by so great a display of faith to the Mahometan religion. And so much are weak minds enslaved by the blind bigotry of the Greek Church, that I have been informed from good authority that it is forbidden by their priests, under pain of non-absolution, to visit these assemblies of Dervishes, from an apprehension that the sufferings which they voluntarily undergo and inflict on themselves for the honour of their religion might have so forcible an effect upon the understanding of the greatest part as to shake their Catholic faith and convert them to Mahometanism.

At nine o'clock we were conducted by our janissaries to the hall where these Dervishes were assembled, to the number of a dozen, and attended by upwards of one hundred spectators. The scene was opened by a dance of a most ridiculous nature : three of the Dervishes stood up at a time in a most curious dress, one part of which was a sort of petticoat fastened very high upon their waist, with a short jacket open before and their arms bare. They began by turning themselves round for upwards of half an hour, till quite overcome with a vertigo they all three fell senseless on the ground, amidst the acclamations of the spectators. The next object that presented itself to our view was a man pinching the flesh on his arm with a broad pair of pincers made for the purpose, till there was not a spot on his left arm and shoulder that was not bursting forth with extravasated blood. This fellow wished to impress the bystanders with the belief that his religious zeal prevented his suffering any pain from this dreadful operation. And though, to do him justice, his countenance did not betray the whole extent of his sufferings, yet could he not succeed in persuading any rational being that God would deaden a man's feelings, and prevent him from suffering the pain that he voluntarily inflicted on himself through his folly or fanaticism.

I afterwards witnessed many similar sights, all equally disgusting ; but what shocked me the most was a Dervish, who first held a red-hot bar of iron in his teeth till they were nearly burnt out of his head ; and afterwards held it in his hands, till the flesh was almost entirely burnt off his fingers. This rendered the place so offensive with the smell of his broiling flesh that I was obliged to take my departure.

There is another ceremony among these poor deluded wretches which I did not want to see-it is their devouring serpents alive. They accomplish this by first laying hold of the animal by the neck and beginning their repast on the head, while the tortured animal writhes itself round their arm, to the very great entertainment of the ignorant spectators, who shout applause and ever after consider these miserable fanatics as saints.

Leaving this disgusting spectacle, we went to TopHanna and embarked in a boat to cross the Canal, with an intention of taking a stroll about the town of Constantinople, and particularly to examine-as much of the Seraglio as may be viewed without much danger - or inconvenience.

This Palace occupies the place where anciently stood Byzantium, on the point of the Peninsula of Thracia, near the Bosphorus. It was erected by Mahomed II., and is three miles in circuit. Its form is triangular: the buildings are on the top and declivity of the hill, and the gardens extend as far as the sea. The exterior has nothing striking or remarkable ; and if we are to judge of the beauty of the gardens by the quantity of cypresstrees they contain, we may fairly conclude that they are not better cultivated or more curiously laid out than those of other individuals in Constantinople. The only particular care that appeared to have been taken, was to overload the grounds with shrubs and evergreens in order to conceal from the inhabitants of Galata and the other neighbouring places the sight of the Sultanas while they are walking in them. On going into the first court of the Seraglio, we were shewn a kind of wall with niches for exposing the heads of great state criminals. The first court of the Seraglio is immense, and is guarded by fifty capigis, who are only armed with a small stick. It contains the infirmary, the bake-houses and other offices, as well as barracks for the Baliondgis. On the left hand of this square is the ancient church of St. Irene, which was built by Constantine the Great, and is now converted into a storehouse for arms. In this court is also a fountain to which the Greeks come on certain festivals to drink of its waters, for which they pay very handsomely to the Grand Signior. Everybody is allowed to enter this court where a most profound silence reigns ; for if anyone was to make the least noise, it would be construed into a want of respect to the Master, and the delinquent would be bastinadoed on the spot.

The second court is more regular and much more agreeable than the first. It is likewise guarded by fifty capigis, and has two towers, near which is the Hall of Execution, where the viziers are tried and beheaded. This explains a Turkish common expression, which is applied to those who are checked in their career: " to be stopt between the two doors," as there is one at each side of this place of execution. Here is still to be seen the mortar and pestle that were kept for pounding the Muftis and Mamas when guilty of treason or other offences. The property of these people not [?] being subject to confiscation, they were certain of carrying nothing out of this world with them ; not even whole bones.

There are three passages leading out of this great court. The first to the right leads to the Divan, which is the highest tower of the Seraglio. It is a large square building, in which the councils of state are held. The second passage is in the centre of the court, and leads to the Gate of Felicity; it also conducts you to the presence chamber where the Grand Signior receives the foreign ambassadors. Between this gate and the square is a small kiosk where the Kislar Agha holds his Divan, and woe unto those who come under the cognizance of this court of inquiry. The third passage leads to the kitchens, nine in number, and other offices. The remaining buildings on the same line are the Treasury, the Treasurer's House, a Mosque, two kiosks and a beautiful bath.

The buildings at the back of the Divan are the apartments of the Grand Signior, and near them the great Haram. The interior of these apartments displays the highest degree of richness and sumptuous magnificence. I have not been enabled to ascertain the number of beauties they contain. I understood that those only were called Sultanas who had been honoured with a peculiar preference by the Grand Signior, and could add to that distinction the far more envious title of "mother."

The Seraglio contains two distinct orders of favourites. Those who have been honoured but once with the gracious embraces of the Sultan are called odalisks, and the asakis are those who can boast of having been noticed several times. Unhappy victims! who are obliged to solicit and pine after the embraces of a surly, debauched, and enervated tyrant. With all his riches and power, he can command only sensual enjoyments ; and has perhaps never felt or communicated that heavenly enchantment, which is the result of the close union of two congenial souls.

The strictest policy is observed in the Haram : the women can enjoy, and are promoted to, places of rank and emolument. Crimes are punished with death : the guilty are tied up and thrown into the sea. But whatever riches or dignities they enjoy, they are nevertheless subservient to the control and caprice of eunuchs. They are allowed a physician when sick, who must, however, feel their pulse thro' a gauze. The eunuchs mount guard in the interior of the apartments ; their chief is called Capiaga. The black eunuchs, and of them the most hideous, alone approach the odalisks. The ichoglans are the pages of the Grand Signior ; they are very handsome young boys, and were formerly selected from, among the captives: but now many families among the Turks solicit that honour for their children, and often pay a sum of money to obtain it. The Mutes are a particular class of servants, always at hand and ready to execute the secret orders of the Prince. They express, their meaning by signs with an astonishing perspicacity When the Emperor walks in the gardens with his women a bell is rung, and the gardeners and labourers are obliged to retreat precipitately under pain of death.

Footnotes

1 Sir Robert Ainslie.
2 The Hon. Seymour Finch.
3 Don Juan de Bouligny.-Moore's journal.
4 de Hubsch.-Moore's journal,
5 See P. 6.
6 See p. 104.
7 Anthemius.
8 Isidorus. Moore's journal has the same errors.
9 See p. 103
10 i.e., Tchesmé. The year should be 1770.
11 A kind of dart about 10 or 12 feet long. - Moores Journal.
12 Hon. Seymour Finch.
13 Sir Robert Ainslie.
14 i.e., Kassim Pasha