[From Buck Whaley's Memoirs]

CHAPTER VI.

Departure from Constantinople-The Dardanelles-Ancient Troy-Return to Smyrna-Homer's Cavern-Population o. SmyrnaEphesus-The River Meander-Fogia Nova-Scio-Patmos-A Greek Seminary-St. John the Evangelist-St. John of AcreNazareth-The Church of the Annunciation-The Governor of Nazareth.

EVERYTHING being ready for my voyage, having engaged the sloop Constantinople to convey me to Smyrna, and taken leave of my friends, we went on board, the 21st of January. But we were detained so long by the custom-house officers, that we were obliged to shew our letter from the Captain Bashaw and the firman from the Grand Signior, before we could prevail on those impudent miscreants to let us depart. As it was calm, Mr. B-,¹ first lieutenant of the Pearl, offered us his boats to tow us out of the harbour, and being extremely impatient to get to Smyrna, where I expected a great number of letters, not having received any since I left England, I accepted his kind offer. We were soon towed beyond the Seraglio point, when a light breeze springing up, we set all the sail we could carry and soon found ourselves in the Sea of Marmora (so called from the island of that name), through which we had a very tedious navigation.

It was not till the twenty-fourth in the evening that We anchored off the Castle of the Dardanelles, on the Asiatic side. The English vice-consul, for whom we had dispatches from our Ambassador, on hoisting our colours, came off to us. He gave us to understand that we could not possibly procure the necessary clearance from the Castle before the next day. We were therefore obliged to submit patiently, though the wind was fair all that night. About twelve o'clock the next day we got under way.

The Castle on the Asiatic side appears to the best advantage in point of strength. The batteries are almost on a level with the water. The cannon is fixed, and some of them throw balls of two and three hundredweight quite across the Strait. These castles are considered by the Turks as the chief defence of Constantinople; nor has this city any other on the side of the Sea of Marmora. Their batteries may very well answer the purpose of preventing merchants' ships from sailing up the Strait before they be visited by the officers of the customs, as they do not choose to expose themselves to the dangers of an attack. But, the idea of their obstructing or preventing the passage of an armed naval force ! In case a fleet were determined to pass, they might do it very easily without receiving the least injury, according as the winds and currents favoured them. Or they might, in a very short time, not only silence the artillery of the Turks but reduce the castles to a heap of ruins.

We stood this evening with a fair but light wind, close off the Hellespont, weathered the Cape of the Janissaries, formerly called Sigeum, and sailed along the coast of ancient Troy, of whose proud walls and stately edifices not one stone remains, or vestige to point out to the curious traveller where this once renowned city stood And nothing appears but a few villages scattered along the coast.

One of these villages is called Ghiam Kioz, or the " Village of the Infidels," from its being entirely inhabited by Greeks, who on account of their working in the mines belonging to the Grand Signior, are exempted from the karragio, or capitation tax, which is annually levied on all the subjects of his dominions. We stood on with a fair wind, and passed the islands of Lemnos and Tenedos, and in the evening made the island of Mitylene, the ancient Lesbos. Here the wind veered round to the north-east, and the captain persisting in his intention or sailing between the island of Mitylene and the continent, instead of keeping to the westward of it, we lost much time in fruitless attempts to effect that purpose, so that we did not make the Gulf of Smyrna before the morning of the 27th of January.

When we were off the small islands, les Isles Angloises (for what reason so called, I know not),² the wind quite died away, and tho' above five leagues from Smyrna, yet such was our impatience to hear news from England that we took the boat. Off the castle we fell in with our old friend the London, Capt. N-,³ with whom I had sailed to Smyrna. He had waited for us till that morning, and we felt ourselves severely disappointed on finding that he could not wait a moment longer for us, though I offered him five hundred pounds.

We were received in the most friendly manner by Messrs. Lees,⁴ and the female part of the family, who seriously reprimanded us for having made so long a stay at Constantinople. But my anxiety and mortification can neither be imagined or described, when, on enquiring for my letters, I was told there were none for me, tho' three packets had arrived from England since I left Smyrna. My fortitude was not equal to this severe disappointment, which brought on a violent fever. My kind and attentive friend did not leave me one moment during my illness, but had his bed made on the floor in my room. In about a fortnight every alarming symptom of my illness was removed, and with the assistance of a great deal of bark, and the agreeable company of the ladies, who did me the favour to come and sit in my room every evening, I soon recovered my health, strength and spirits.

As there were at Smyrna several interesting objects, which I had not an opportunity of viewing before, I therefore took advantage of the first moments of convalescence to perambulate the city and examine several beautiful buildings, the most remarkable of which is an immense and majestic Caravansary, which contains a vast number of apartments very well distributed.

We continued our walk to the ancient Circus or Stadium, where a kind of portico is still to be seen, under which, as tradition will have it, the statue of Homer had been placed. This city claims the honour of having given birth to the prince of poets, and to this day the very spot is shewn, on the banks of the Meles, where Critheis his mother gave him birth, and the cavern where he is supposed to have retired to compose his immortal works.

Its inhabitants still amount to one hundred thousand, sixty thousand of whom are Turks, twenty thousand Greeks, ten thousand Jews, and the rest Armenians, or Franks. The latter denomination is applied to Europeans. They all inhabit the Street of the Franks, which much resembles a Christian city, and live very comfortably.

Here are spoken Italian, French, English and Dutch. All religions are tolerated ; and the different churches, mosques and temples which present themselves to the view make a very singular appearance.

Difference of religion does not interrupt the harmony which subsists among them. Commerce, that leveller of all ranks and source of all our enjoyments, triumphs over the despotism of Eastern tyrants, and over the still more destructive scourge of fanaticism. All their pursuits are directed towards amassing, with as little labour as possible, an easy and competent fortune, and enjoying all the comforts and conveniences of life that a happy climate and a pleasant neighbourhood can afford. Thus the merchants receive all strangers with affability, and vie with each other in shewing every mark of polite attention and hospitality. They all have country-houses, keep dogs and racers, and in short, live in a style of elegance little inferior to that of an English nobleman.

I did not wish to leave Smyrna before I had visited Ephesus, about forty miles south of this town, so famous for its temple of Diana. It is called by the Turks Aja Saluk. It had likewise been the asylum of St. Paul and the Virgin Mary, after the death of our Saviour. Prodigious heaps of marble, columns, capitals and broken statues, scattered through a most beautiful and fertile plain, seem to attest its ancient splendour. It is now a miserable village, inhabited by thirty or forty Greek families. The fortress, which is upon an eminence, seems to have been the work of the Greek emperors. The Eastern Gate, called the Gate of Persecution, has still three beautiful basso-relievos. The temple of Diana had been turned into a church by the primitive Christians, but nothing now remains of it except the foundations and five or six marble columns, all of one entire piece, sixty feet in length and seven in diameter. Near it, at the foot of the mountain, we saw the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers, so called because it served as a refuge for seven knights persecuted by Diocletian. About four miles further on, we saw the prison of St. Paul, a small building on an eminence, where four rooms are still distinguishable.

From hence we had a delightful view of the surrounding plain and the river Meander, whose fantastic serpentine windings, it is supposed, gave Daedalus the idea of building his Labyrinth in Crete.

This recalled to my remembrance the beautiful lines of Ovid.⁵

" Non secus ac liquidus Phrygiis Maeander in arvis
Ludit, et ambiguo lapsu refluitque fluitque,
Occurrensque sibi venturas aspicit undas ;
Et nunc ad fontes, nunc ad mare versus apertum,
Incertas exercet aquas. Ita Daedalus implet
Innumeras errore vias ; vixque ipse reverti
Ad limen potuit, tanta est fallacia tecti."

Our departure from Smyrna was fixed for the third of February. The captain of the Heureuse Marie was to send his boat for us at midnight. I could not help expressing and really feeling much regret at being obliged to make so short a stay with Messrs. L- and their worthy family, from whom I experienced every kindness and attention that sincere friendship could dictate. After supper we went on board, and by daybreak found ourselves only off the Castle of Smyrna, as the wind had been contrary all night ; nor did we clear the bay, which is only fifteen leagues in length, till the evening of the fifth, and during the time we were obliged to come twice to an anchor and go on shore, where we found much diversion in shooting swans; of which thousands are to be seen on the northern side of this gulf.

Towards evening we were forced into the harbour of Fogia ⁶ Nova, at the mouth of the Gulf of Smyrna. Here [we] were detained by a storm until the ninth.

On anchoring here we were the only ship in the harbour, but before the next morning sixteen sail more were driven in by the violence of a southerly gale. This town was formerly called Phocia [Phokaia] ; it was destroyed last year by the Russians, and exhibits now a mere heap of ruins, with only a few scattered houses remaining. The harbour has sufficient water to float the largest ship of the line ; but the entrance is very narrow. On the south side stands a Castle which had been likewise destroyed by the enemy, but the Turks, considering it of much importance, have since rebuilt it.

During our stay here we went out every day to shoot, and though we had no pointers we met with more partridges in one hour than I had ever seen in any one day of my life. We also shot some hares, pheasants and quails.

In returning from one of our shooting parties, we were accosted by a very respectable looking Mussulman, who testified a desire of accompanying us on board to see our ship. As we intended to return on shore after dinner, we complied with his request. He seemed much pleased with our attention to him, and highly praised the flavour of our bottled porter, to which the Turks in general show no dislike. He approved much of our English cookery, but when a knife and fork were presented to him, he appeared a good deal surprised, and in attempting to use them as we did he betrayed his awkwardness by evident marks on his mouth and fingers. He then had recourse to his old method, which he found the best, and made a pretty good use of those means of attack which nature has provided; the only weapons, in that kind of warfare, used by the first men in the country and even by the Grand Signior himself.

When dinner was over we offered him some wine, which he refused ; but he drank off a whole bottle of rum, and was scarcely satisfied with it. However, as it was scarce with us, I proposed that we should give him some lavender-water : having read in de Tott's Memoirs, that the Turks sometimes drink large quantities of this violent spirit. A bottle was brought, accordingly, of which he partook very plentifully : and I really think he would have finished the bottle, if I had not prevented him, by strongly representing the dangerous consequences of an immoderate use of such liquids. As the rum and lavender began to operate, I could not help giving way to very serious apprehensions ; for when a Turk gets intoxicated he makes no scruple of killing the first Greek or giaour he meets, and for this offence he only receives a slight bastinado. I was glad, however, that our guest kept himself quiet, and never attempted to draw his sabre or pistols. We took him on shore and then left him to take care of himself.

February the 9th.

We set sail from this place. -- The wind continued fair till we had weathered Cape Callaburne [Kara Burnu], and made the island of Spelmadore,⁷ when it shifted to the east. We were, however, enabled to sail along the coast of Scio, a beautiful and fertile island. By twelve we were abreast of the town, which is very large and handsome. Much trade is carried on here, particularly in cotton and corn. The former article is exported to Smyrna, for the European markets; and the latter to Constantinople, for the consumption of that metropolis. Scio is reckoned the richest island in the Archipelago.

For two successive days we experienced contrary winds, and it was with the greatest difficulty we could keep the sea. By the eleventh we were off the island of Nicaria, and in the evening we made the islands of Samos and Fournis.⁸ At ten at night, the gale increased to a such a degree that the captain thought it prudent to run for the island of Patmos. Scarcely had we made the harbour when it blew such a hurricane as would probably have proved fatal had we kept at sea, encircled as we should have been by land on every side. We therefore congratulated each other on being snug in a good harbour, and among fhe prettiest women of the Archipelago. This is a most beautiful little harbour, in the shape of a horse-shoe and sheltered against every wind. We walked up to the town, which is built on the highest art of the island, about a mile from the beach. Here, at the door of a mean-looking house, I saw the most beautiful woman I ever set my eyes on, and as her husband was a silversmith we had frequent opportunities, under various pretences of seeing and admiring this exquisitely-finished piece of nature's handywork.

I bought several gold and silver medals of the husband and finding that the mother-in-law had a particular liking for them, we each of us were favoured with an opportunity of mutual gratification ; I in complying with my spirit of generosity, and she in testifying her sense of gratitude.

We went to see a kind of seminary which is established here. It is the only college but one in the Archipelago or the Levant ; and to this college or university all the Grecian youths are sent for their education ! What a difference between this and the School of Athens! Here nothing is acquired but bigotry and effeminacy. Nothing now remains of the manly virtues of ancient heroes, so energetically recorded by cotemporary authors, and justly admired by succeeding generations. The present inhabitants are only distinguished for meanness, poverty and ignorance.

One of the youths educated here formed an acquaintance with Pauolo, for the purpose of procuring some bread from me, as the poor lad was nearly starving. I ordered him five hundred biscuits, which he said would last him during his stay in the island, as he intended to return to Cyprus, his own country, as soon as he had finished his studies.

Near this college is a cavern in the rock, now converted into a chapel. You are told that St. John wrote his gospel in this cave ; and you are shown the place where he slept ; the iron hooks driven into the roof, which the superstitious visitors, who in general frequent this place, believe to be really those from which the bed of this man had been suspended.

We afterwards ascended the hill and paid our respects to the Superior of the Convent of St. John, which, as we were informed by the friars, had been founded by St. John the Evangelist. There is a very ancient chapel within the cloister, in which the saint is buried. They shewed us the coffin which contains his bones. It 'is placed in one of the niches of the wall, and covered with embroidered purple velvet, fastened on with many silver clasps. This piece of finery was very carefully locked, and I was informed that on particular festivals the coffin was opened and mass celebrated in the chapel in honour of St. John.

I wished to have the coffin opened, to satisfy my doubts whether bones could remain after so many ages. But my curiosity could not be gratified without a liberal donation on my part. I therefore opened my pursestrings, and a lusty friar opened the coffin ; but not till after he had sprinkled a proper quantity of holy water, crossed himself several times, and prayed upwards of twenty minutes. He then presented to my view a most disgusting spectacle: but most of the bystanders, after uttering a short prayer, kissed these precious relics with the greatest fervour. I was fully convinced that these could not be the bones of St. John, but the skeleton of some other person, placed there as his representative, for on some parts of the head, the hair was still remaining. There is no doubt, however, but that this is the spot where St. John wrote his gospel, and that he died in this island.

Both the monastery and chapel are very old. They were repaired by Constantine the Great, in the beginning of his reign. There are some very ancient paintings in the chapel, which I suppose were done by a Russian artist, as they appear to have the characteristics of those described by Mr. Cox in his Travels, who asserts that painting was first attempted in Russia, and from thence brought into Italy. They are finished on a yellow ground, are gilt, and the outlines very strong and prominent.

The inhabitants of this little island are all Greeks. There is not one Turk resident in Patmos.

The Capitan Bashaw keeps one of his vessels stationed here, for the purpose of collecting the carragio,l or capitation tax. The taxes laid on the inhabitants are really intolerable, as every individual pays nearly one half of what he possesses. This vessel is also supposed to protect the island from pirates: but the day before we arrived a vessel was plundered in the harbour, and other outrages committed on the inhabitants, without any attempt being made by the Bashaw's men to prevent them. I was assured that, when an opportunity offered, those very protectors turned pirates and plundered with impunity.

We were introduced to a French gentleman who practised physic.2 We found him truly obliging, and his politeness and friendly attention contributed much to render our situation here agreeable during our stay. He engaged to give us a dance the Sunday following and introduce us to all the prettiest women of this island. To conciliate this useful man's friendship still more, I made him a present of my medicine-chest, with which he had fallen in love : and in return I met, at the doctor's dance, the silversmith's charming wife, dressed out in all her finery. They have in this island a dance peculiar to themselves, which I did not admire, as it is wholly destitute of meaning. The men take each their particular partners, under the arm, and making a rondeau, they sing as they pursue this circle, in an uninterrupted rotation, while the musician remains standing in the middle. This often continues two hours together. They have another extraordinary custom : there is a large hole in the fiddler's instrument, and as the dance is going on, if a gentleman wishes to show any particular respect to his fair one, he drops some money into this opening as he passes the musician, which is considered as a mark of profound esteem and admiration. Our complaisant doctor afterwards favoured us with several other pleasant parties, so that we could not help feeling some degree of regret when, on the seventeenth, a propitious gale suggested the expediency of our departure from this friendly island.

We were but six days on our passage from Patmos to the coast of Syria. The weather being very rough, we were obliged to run for the port of St. John De Acre instead of Jaffa, preferring to travel from Acre to Jerusalem by land to remaining any longer at the mercy of the waves. We entered Caiffa Bay and immediately anchored. This is the winter road for ships trading to the coast of Syria, and is about three leagues distant from the town of St. John of Acre, which forms the northeastern extremity of this vast bay, whilst Mount Carmel forms that to the south-west; and immediately at the foot of this mountain stands the small town of Caiffa Nova, from which the bay takes its name.

A Moor, who lives here and is employed by the viceconsul of Acre in visiting the English ships, very politely offered us his services : we were soon joined by the consul himself, who very civilly introduced us to his family, by whom we were most graciously received. As we approached the town, on the southern side of which there is a very fine sandy beach, we observed upwards of two hundred of the Bashaw's soldiers exercising on horse-back, and throwing the gerite with wonderful dexterity.

A dinner was prepared for us at the consul's. We did not sit long at table, being desirous to make our respects to Jedzar Bashaw,1 who holds his Court here, and governs with the most despotic sway. Indeed, we were told that our waiting on him was a duty indispensable with regard to our safety; as providing ourselves with passports from this powerful Turk would much facilitate our progress, and protect us from thence to Jerusalem. We had scarcely dined when a message was brought us from the Bashaw, intimating his desire to see us at his Palace, by the vice-consul, who served us as dragoman on the occasion.

On our arrival at the Palace, we were conducted thro' several spacious apartments, and thence to a gallery of immense length, from whence we descended by a flight of one hundred steps, when we found ourselves in a delightful garden, laid out with much taste, at the end of which we perceived the Bashaw seated under a monstrous magnolia, which with several other evergreens was at that time in full blow. As we entered the garden, he sent part of the attendants that surrounded him to meet and conduct us to the spot where he chose to give us an audience. He ordered me to be seated on his right hand, my fellow traveller on his left, while the humiliating posture of the vice-consul shocked me. He kneeled before him, and trembled [in] every limb. I was happy, however, to find that he was only the British consul's deputy, at that time on business at Aleppo.

After the usual compliments, we were served with refreshments of various kinds, differing little from what I had seen at Constantinople. I did not, however, feel so much at ease and was much at a loss how to account for the evident marks of terror in the countenance of the kneeling consul.

After partaking of fifty different sorts of sweetmeats, etc., Jedzar began the conversation by asking me if I had not heard of his great power and warlike exploits ? I told him I had often heard his name mentioned at Constantinople in terms highly honourable; and could I then foresee that I should land at St. John of Acre, I should have provided myself with letters of introduction to his highness. He said these were by no means necessary ; that the stranger had always a protector in him, particularly those of my nation, whom he held in much higher estimation than those of any other country in Europe. He continued the conversation by giving me a full account of his life and adventures, particularly his wars against the unfortunate Ali Bey, a Calif of Egypt, whom he conquered and afterwards put to death. Volney is very accurate in his History of Egypt,' and relates in a most affecting manner the misfortunes of this unhappy prince. But the greatest barbarity exercised by Jedzar, in all his conquests, happened some years after he had the command of the district of Acre and Nazareth, when his oppression and cruelties became so intolerable to the inhabitants that they were obliged to revolt against the Porte. Jedzar was ordered by the Sultan to march against the insurgents, and tho' in the first campaign he was rather worsted, owing to the number of the malcontents, yet in the second he so far recovered his loss that, with a force of only 6,ooo, he defeated 2o,ooo. This battle was fought near Damascus. The Bashaw of that town was killed by Jedzar, and 1,200 prisoners taken, consisting of men,women and children, who were, by his order, sent to Acre, and there, without distinction of age or sex, butchered in cold blood. Jedzar freighted three Venetian vessels and sent the heads of those victims, packed in boxes, to Constantinople-a most acceptable present to his Sultan.

Among the women slaughtered on this occasion, there was one of exquisite beauty : she was only fifteen years old. The merchants of Acre, more, I fear, to give the Bashaw a pretext to violate an oath he had taken, " that all concerned in this rebellion should die," and that he might add this beautiful girl to his haram, than from motives of humanity, petitioned him to spare the life of this unfortunate fair one : but the monster was relentless. He, however, in order to shew the French merchants every possible consideration that could not be construed a violation of his oath, said he would mitigate her sentence, and instead of having her head cut off by the hands of the common executioner, he himself would confer that honour: and accordingly assembled the factory, intimating his desire that all should attend. None dared to disobey, and in the presence of them all, he with some difficulty tied the hands of this beautiful girl behind her back, and drawing his sabre, with one blow severed the head from the body.

It was for this bloody business he was raised to the highest rank among the Turks; and he had the Third Tail sent him on this occasion, from the Porte. He likewise assumed the title of Jedzar, which in Arabic signifies " butcher " ; and surely no title could be more applicable.

He had, at the time of our audience, upwards of three hundred men at work in his garden, who all appeared very attentive to what they were doing, and seldom ventured to raise their eyes from the ground.

One unfortunate fellow, whose crime I could never learn, happened to displease him. He ordered him immediately to be brought before him, and looking at him with eyes inflamed with savage fury, he had him stripped in our presence, and drawing from behind his robe a silver hammer of about four pounds weight was preparing to inflict on the unfortunate victim that punishment I shall now describe, but which I had the heartfelt satisfaction, thro' my intercession, to have mitigated ; and a severe bastinadoing expiated his fault. And when the Bashaw's passion cooled a little, I ventured to express a desire of knowing the virtues of this tremendous hammer, and received the following explanation. When Jedzar does not choose to inflict the punishment of death on any of his offending slaves, he orders him to be laid across a bar of wood, with his hands and feet held to the ground ; he then, with his hammer, strikes the culprit on the backbone, which immediately brings on a palsy, that ends only with the death of the wretched offender, or, if the blow be very violent, destroys him in a few hours.

While I reflected with indignation on the savage cruelty of this monster, I was suddenly roused by the softest music and the footsteps of many females at the other end of the garden. These were the Bashaw's women : they were two hundred in number, dressed all alike in white, and veiled, as usual, from top to toe. The Bashaw ordered them to walk slowly by him, which ceremony they performed with the most profound silence. This he meant as the greatest compliment he could pay us: but, for my part, I should most willingly have dispensed with this treat. My mind was too much taken up with gloomy reflections on the cruel hammer scene, and the wretched state of servility to which these unfortunate women were doomed, to be gratified with any mark of this Bashaw's favour or complaisance.

I was told by the consul that it was time we should take our leave ; and considering that he had been a full hour on his knees, 'tis no wonder he should think so. I desired he would ask the Bashaw when he would be ready to receive some presents I had a wish to make him. He smiled, and appointed that evening. We, therefore, for the present took our leave. I had not arrived at the consul's when I received a visit from Jedzar's dragoman, accompanied by two slaves. The one brought me a rich furred pelice, the other presented a handsome pipe and a few pounds of coffee. In return, I waited on the Bashaw, and presented him with a pair of pistols, beautifully ornamented in gold and silver. He could not conceal his admiration of them : they were of the best workmanship and cost too guineas. He desired to know if they were as good as they were handsome. I answered in the affirmative, and at his desire loaded them, and having placed a bit of paper, about the size of a crown piece, at twelve yards' distance, he fired and made a pretty good shot. But loading the pistols a second time himself, he put in a double charge of powder, which hurt his hand very much and he shot wide of the mark. This he could not account for, and it was with much difficulty I convinced him that with half the quantity of gunpowder he would shoot better, which, at his request, I proved by hitting the mark three times running, at which he was both pleased and astonished. At length I took my leave and left him in good humour and highly gratified.

In the morning I had a most pressing invitation from a French merchant resident here to spend the evening at his house. On leaving the Bashaw's, I found this liberal Frenchman waiting in the street, to conduct us to his hospitable mansion. I was met at the door by his Roxalana, as he styled her, who led us into a saloon furnished å la turque, in the centre of which was the tendour, covered with a magnificent Persian carpet. My eyes were dazzled with the assemblage of beauties that were seated around it. The amiable Roxalana was a native of Chio and did the honours of her house, in a manner truly graceful ; and tho' the rest of her female companions had the advantage [in] point of juvenility, yet such were her personal and mental accomplishments that I was not at all surprised to see her distinguished as the favourite Sultana.

The ladies were twelve in number, and had been collected with much taste and expense in different parts of Asia and among the islands. They were all lively and good-humoured, and spoke a little Italian. Their animated and expressive manners made up for any deficiency that may appear from a want of words. The evening was spent in dancing and playing at blindman's buff, etc. etc. till supper was announced, which was served up in as elegant a style and consisted of as great a variety of delicacies as could be met with at the table of the first gourmand in Paris. In short, there was nothing wanting to render this evening's entertainment highly pleasing both to the gay and serious, so that the thought of retiring to rest never once broke in upon us till six o'clock in the morning. I threw myself on a sofa ; but the scenes of the past night were present to my imagination, and I could not help exclaiming " O pleasures past, never again to return ! "

This reflection superinduced others, which entirely precluded sleep. I arose at eight, and took my leave of this hospitable bon vivant, fully determined to pass some time with him at my return from Jerusalem.

The following day we were detained a considerable time by those who were to furnish us with mules for our journey ; and tho' we had saddles of our own they would not permit us to make use of them : we were forced to ride on large pack-saddles, without a bridle, and the only means we had of directing the animals was to strike them with a stick, sometimes on one side and sometimes on the other. We had no sooner left the strand than we discovered that those Turks who were sent with us as guides were as ignorant as ourselves of the road to Nazareth.

At eleven, we stopped to breakfast, and on a sudden, found ourselves surrounded by Arabs, to the number of twenty, headed by a chief. They immediately sat themselves down, and before we had time to look about us, devoured our breakfast, everyone seizing whatever fell in his way. This, however, was all the injury they did us, and when they heard we were going to Nazareth, the chief offered us one of his men as a guide.

I acknowledge that I dreaded this man's company, lest he should in the night-time lead us out of our way, and, assisted by other wanderers, rob and plunder us. Pauolo soon dispelled my fears, by assuring me that these were friendly Arabs, and that we had nothing to apprehend till we had passed Nazareth. This Arab was to accompany us as far as that town. As we fell into the right road, about sunset, we determined to stop at the first house that should have the hospitality to receive us. At nine we arrived at a small village called Scietamor,l only twenty miles distant from St. John de Acre.

This neighbourhood is famous for its cotton, which is esteemed the best in all Galilee.

We knocked at many doors, but in vain. I could not restrain my indignation, and almost expressed a wish that the words of Christ might be fulfilled on this inhospitable people. After having rambled above an hour, we were at length admitted into the house of a Greek priest, in which we took up our lodgings for the night.

Our landlord was married, had a large family and a small house, containing one room only, where we were to pass the night. The house could afford nothing better than some milk and eggs. After our frugal supper, we spread our mattresses on one side of the fire-place, and our servants lay at our feet. The cure and his wife were opposite to us, and the young ladies of the family lay at some distance. Ludicrous as this scene may appear, it neither discomposed our gravity or prevented us from passing a very comfortable night.

At six in the morning we were again on foot ; and after having thanked our hospitable clergyman, we set forward on our journey. We arrived at Nazareth about two, and alighted at the Convent of the Annunciation, so called because the church is built on the very spot where the house of the Holy Virgin stood, and where she was visited by the angel. The country in the environs of Nazareth is very mountainous and wild. It does not answer the description given of this memorable place in the scriptures. The holy fathers of the Convent themselves acknowledge that the entire face of the country must have undergone a considerable change.

The Father-superior and the Procurer-general of the Convent received us in the most friendly and hospitable manner. We had very good beds and comfortable rooms ; and every possible attention and respect paid to us. These gentlemen advised us to dismiss those people we had brought with us from Acre, together with our mules; promising that they would furnish us with good mules, experienced conductors and trusty guards; which their intimacy with the Governor of the town would enable them to procure.

Dinner being ready we were conducted by those worthy priests into a great hall, where we found an excellent repast prepared for us, tho' it was then Lent, which is most strictly observed by those Friars.

After dinner they conducted us to the Church of the Annunciation, which fully answered the idea we had formed of it. St. Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, had built a most magnificent temple here, which had been almost destroyed by the Saracens at different periods. It was repaired in 1 62o by the Fathers of the Holy Land, who since that time have been constantly making some improvements to it. The whole convent is now surrounded by a thick wall, to protect it against any sudden attack of the Arabs. The church has three aisles, divided by stone pillars ; and in the centre is the great altar, dedicated to the angel Gabriel. Behind it is the choir, and underneath, the Grotto and Chapel of the Annunciation. The superb staircase, by which you descend to it, consists of fifteen steps of the finest marble ; at the foot of which is the place where the gracious message from heaven, announcing the birth of a Saviour, was delivered to the Virgin Mary.

The Altar of the Annunciation is very beautiful; being adorned with a variety of fine marbles, well inlaid. over the altar is a fine painting, representing the Virgin Mary, and the angel saluting her. On the whole nothing can be more beautiful than this little church, in which all the numberless ceremonies of the greatest Catholic churches and cathedrals in Europe are strictly observed.

From this church we were conducted to the other parts of this convent, which are both spacious and commodious. All the doors are of iron, and the walls are immensely thick and solid. Attached to the convent are the various gardens and offices, kept solely for the entertainment of the pilgrims on their way to and return from the Holy Sepulchre. Their stay is limited to three days, and no longer, during which time they are treated in the most hospitable manner without the least expense on their part. There are but fifteen Friars in this convent, though sufficiently endowed, in every respect, for ten times that number. After we had viewed the convent we went to see a Grotto, in which is shewn a stone of an oval form ; three feet in height by four in breadth and seven in length; on which Jesus Christ is said to have dined with his disciples.

We then visited a church which is said to have been formerly the Synagogue in which our Saviour proved, that in his person was fulfilled the prophecy of Isaiah relating to his mission.

On our return to the convent the Superior proposed that we should visit the Deputy-governor, who resides here. He is under the Bashaw of St. John De Acre, collects his revenues has the care of all his concerns, and the control over all his subjects in the vast district of Nazareth. Though a Greek he possesses both the legislative and executive power, and holds the inhabitants of this wild country in the most abject subjection, and is by them honoured as their prince.

On entering his palace we were a little disappointed in our expectations, as it had the appearance of a house falling into ruins. This circumstance, however, when the cause was explained to us, raised him in our estimation, and served as a strong proof of his good sense; as it is this uninviting appearance of wretchedness alone, that saves both his head and wealth from the cruelty and avarice of his prince.

We ascended by a stone staircase to an apartment furnished a la turque, with cushions and carpets, where we were presented to Ibrahim Calcussi,' who received us very politely. After we were seated, sweetmeats and coffee were introduced; frankincense and perfumes of different kinds succeeded. I was next presented with a large pipe, which I readily accepted, being by this time become an expert smoker.

Our conversation turned chiefly on horses. Ibrahim informed me that the finest horses in all Arabia were bred in this part of the country. I expressed a wish to purchase one to take with me to Europe; but he could not assist me from a dread of incurring the anger of the Bashaw, should it be discovered that he had been instrumental in procuring me one. He accepted a spy-glass which I offered him, and in return gave me a large phial of otto of roses. He regretted that we could not make a longer stay at Nazareth, as he would give us an escort of twenty soldiers, who were then absent on a different service ; however, he spared us one of his guards, who, he had no doubt, would prove a sufficient protection till, we arrived at Napolosa, the Governor of which town would give us a proper guard, in case of necessity. Having now returned to the convent, one of the Friars showed us a very excellent collection of medals and antiques which he was forming for the Prince of Asturias. He examined the few I had, and promised me that at my return from Jerusalem he would part with any of those he had to oblige me.

February the 26th.

We were on horseback by five o'clock. Our little caravan consisted of a dozen, including Ibrahim's soldier,' who was well armed, and equally well mounted. His master had given him letters to the different Governors, both of Genia' and Napolosa, where pilgrims pay tribute to the Jaffars, or Arabs, who farm, or take at a certain rate,, this branch of the revenue. We were recommended to them in a particular manner, with a request that we should not be detained at either place, or required to pay the tax.

1 1st Lieut. George Ball.
2 " By Clazomene is a cluster of islets, all once cultivated. . . . One is called Long Island, and by some the English Island." R. Chandler's Travels in Asia Minor (in 176¢-65), vol. i., 101, 3rd ed., Lond. 1718.
3 Capt. Neil.
4 See ante, p. 71.
5 Metamorphoseon, lib. viii., 162.
6 Le., Fotcha.
7 I.e., Spalmatori (ancient Œnoussae).
8 Le., Corsea (Phurni).
9 I.e., the haratch.
10 " A certain Venetian doctor (Giuseppe Gilly)."-Moore's Journal.
11 In modern times more usually called Jezzar Pasha
12 .Travels through Syria and Egypt, C. F. Volney ; Translated from the French, Lond. 1787. Reprinted, Dublin, 1796.
13 ? Shefa Amr.
14 Calousse in Moore's journal.
15 " Whose name was Mustapha.""-Moore's journal.
16 ? Jenin.