[From Buck Whaley's Memoirs]

CHAPTER III.

The Sea Voyage resumed-The Island of St. Peter-Sicily-Mount Olympus-A Storm- Smyrna-A Tendour-L'Avant SouperThe Custom-House-A Caravan-A Mosque -A Turkish Bath -A Lead-foundry-Character of Pauolo, my Servant-A Turkish Burying- Ground -Journey to Constantinople - Magnesia- Its Governor-Preparations for a Battle.

November the sixth, we re-embarked on board the London. Nothing remarkable occurred to us on the first days of our navigation; nor shall I attempt to describe the various scenes and trifling occurrences which do not fail to attract the attention of the inexperienced navigator. It was not till the thirteenth that we discovered land, which proved to be the island of Sardinia.

On the same morning I was very much entertained with the appearance of a vast number of pilot fish. This fish is known to live in perfect amity with the shark, whose caterer he is said to be, in the same manner as the iackal is the lion's. We endeavoured to catch some of them with lines ; but did not succeed. We tried to strike them with the harpoon, but being rather too small to be killed in this manner we only got two of them after labouring for three hours. We had them dressed for dinner and found them eat tolerably well.

Having unfortunately stood too much to the northward, we perceived that most likely we should not be able to weather the island, which would be one hundred miles out of our course, and to my great mortification, our apprehensions were but too well founded.

November the 14th.

We stood in for the south end of the island, close off St. Peter's, the shore of which is safe and bold, and the rocks very lofty, resembling much the northern parts of Ireland, off the point of Bengore and along the Giant's; Causeway.

In different places of the island of St. Peter's I observed the inhabitants employed along the shore in. burning charcoal. The weather was extremely sultry ; but the serenity of the sky and smoothness of the waters,. which are experienced here as much as in any other seas, more than atone for the other inconveniences. We sat down to dinner in good spirits, and though the fare was none of the best, we contrived to make amends for it by vying with each other who should most enliven the conversation. We did not sit long at dinner, though the conversation turned a good deal on a favourite subject, sporting, in all its branches ; and though this subject naturally led us to mention most of our Irish friends, yet two bottles of port saw the end of our discourse ; and we went on deck to admire the beauties of the setting sun, and there renewed our conversation till the rising moon brought forward other pleasing and interesting sensations. November the 1 7th.

We saw the little island of Maretimo,¹ exhibiting nothing to the view but a rock uncommonly high above the water ; it is of a circular form, and rather flat at top.

Having passed Maretimo, we saw two more small islands,, Fangnana and Farognana ; the former resembles Gibralter very much in respect to the shape of the rock. They are very steep and have a most uncommon appearance from the sea.

November 18th.

We discovered this morning, close on the shore of Sicily, the city of Marsala, which is built on the southwest promontory of the island. It appears from the sea a large and beautiful town ; has several good houses, a great many steeples, and is surrounded by a wall.

As you proceed to the southward, the island of Sicily is very flat for many leagues along the shore ; but as you carry your eyes into the country it rises by degrees and terminates in lofty mountains.

A very beautiful plain extends from Marsala a great way along the coast : at the distance of ten miles is Mazaria,² beautifully situated close on the sea coast. It is fortified and the base of its walls is washed by the waves. The intermediate country between these two towns is most beautiful, and carries with it the richest appearance. At small distances from each other you discover here and there several villas most delightfully situated. The circumjacent country has the appearance of being very populous. The greater part of it is thickly wooded, and the whole is interspersed with villas whose situations are chosen with judgment and exhibit an uncommon degree of neatness, wealth and cheerfulness. As we sailed further along this beautiful island we were at every moment amazed and delighted with the different cities, towns, and villages, many miles up the country ; all of them exhibiting handsome churches with lofty spires. I stayed all day upon deck, admiring the beauties of this garden of the world, when on a sudden at four in the evening the weather changed, and threatened us with an impending storm. As the night advanced the gale increased in heavy squalls accompanied with thunder and lightning, and, indeed, our night was in every respect very uncomfortable. Before daybreak we could see Mount Etna emitting a little fire and vast clouds of thick smoke ; but in the morning we discerned it more perfectly, and all went on deck to view this celebrated mountain, where the ancient poets had placed the forge of Vulcan, whose assistants, the Cyclops, fabricated the thunderbolts of Jove. We could discern it at the distance of twenty-five miles, having then the appearance of a small bonfire. On a nearer view I could perceive its top, covered with snow and volumes of smoke, whilst the sides, on account of the fertility of the soil, were carefully cultivated and planted with vineyards. The changes in the atmosphere were more frequent during this day than we had yet known them : foul and fair weather : light breezes, and then a storm : thunder and lightning, and then a serene sky excessive heat at one time and soon after extreme cold alternately succeed each other during the last twenty-four hours.

Saturday, November 22nd.

After a very tedious navigation we discovered the Morea and passed Cape Matapan in the evening. The coast of this peninsula, all along as far as the island of Cerigo, has the appearance of being very barren and quite uncultivated. The surface of the coast is very high and uneven, the shore bold and steep. We saw no houses or animals of any kind till we had nearly passed the island of Cerigo, formerly Cythera and known for its temple dedicated to Venus, when we discovered the small village of that name. It has a very mean appearance, and the country a worse. No verdure or cultivation of any kind, and the land looks as if it produced nothing but stones.

While we were passing the once celebrated land of Peloponnesus, we were naturally led to consider and converse on its ancient grandeur, and could not, without inexpressible regret, reflect on the melancholy revolution which time and despotism have here effected ; that a country once the seat of the fine arts, the nurse of literature, and famed for her progress in science not less than she was for the celebrated system of jurisprudence of the renowned Spartan law-giver, should now exhibit the most rude, barren prospect that can be conceived, where poverty and ignorance have succeeded to opulence and improvement ; where the noble, generous, arduous, and exalted spirit for which the Spartan youth were famed, and which led them to vie with each other in emulating every act of heroism, magnanimity, and virtue, is now totally extinct ; and we behold their posterity sunk to the lowest pitch of human degradation, mean, cruel, cowardly, ignorant, dishonest, and embracing contentedly the fetters of slavery, to which their ancestors would so much rather have preferred death !

November the 23rd.

In the evening we discovered Mount Olympus to the northward. I had seen it in the morning but took it then for clouds, which it very much resembled at a distance. Its being always covered with snow accounted for the extreme cold we had lately felt, and the northerly wind blowing strongly over its top was a sufficient cause for the sudden change of climate. I cannot see why the ancient poets have placed on it the residence of the gods, and made it the seat of Jupiter, as they certainly allotted, to him a residence which they would have found very uncomfortable.

As the evening advanced, the weather began to wear a very threatening aspect. We spied at a distance a French merchant ship of the size of the London furling her sails, as about to lie to for the night. I was much pleased to find that the captain thought it advisable to hail her. He allowed the French to be better acquainted with these seas, as they frequent them more than we do. He always made it a rule to profit by the experience of the natives of those countries that he visited ; particularly in what regarded the weather ; as it stands to reason that people who have been long accustomed to its continual vicissitudes, will earlier foresee and judge more correctly of any change that is about to take place. I perfectly coincided with him, and his modesty increased the good opinion I had of his skill and prudence. We soon came up with the Frenchman : she was from Marseilles, and bound, as ourselves, to Smyrna. Her captain told us that [the] face of the sky portended a storm, and advised us on no account to venture among the islands, but to follow his example and lay to for the night.

Scarcely had we time to follow his advice before it began to thunder and lighten. I observed that the lightning took a horizontal direction, about a fathom above the surface of the sea, and that two flashes of the silver forked lightning always went together, which we were informed to be the sure forerunner of a storm in these seas. The remainder of the night fully justified the Frenchman's fears and convinced us how right our captain was in following his advice.

The wind was moderate till nine, when it began to blow a true hurricane, accompanied with the most dreadful thunder and lightning. The darkness of the night increased the terror of the storm. The rain poured down in such torrents as rendered it impossible for the men to keep their feet on deck. The storm had continued raging for several hours, and threatened to grow worse before any change for the better could be hoped for. At two in the morning we carried away our mizzenstay-sail ; every sea running over our decks, the boats were in danger of being staved : the binnacle was dashed to pieces : every movable on deck was washed away, and with difficulty the compasses were saved.

It is impossible for anyone to figure to himself the distress of our situation. We were obliged to let the ship drift at the mercy of the waves. She made much water, and her seams, by her labouring, were opening everywhere. The water poured even into the bed-places: all was confusion and a dismal scene of distress.

My Jerusalem friends often occupied my thoughts ; and had I gone to the bottom, I am certain that I would in my last moments have regretted not having been permitted by providence to perform my journey, and to win the bets which these gentlemen were confident they had laid with so great odds in their favour.

The rain stopped at a little after five, and the wind by degrees became more moderate : we began then to cheer ourselves with the hopes of fine weather. We had not drifted so much in the night as we imagined: but found, to our very great sorrow, that our good friend the Frenchman had disappeared. Where she went, God only knows ! I really felt very much distressed on her account ; and as [we] were certain that she could not have made sail during the night, we could only dread the worst.

" Haud ignarus mali, mileris succurrere disco."

Monday, November the 24th.

I have often heard that " after a storm comes a calm " ; and I was glad then to find even a probability of it. Insensibly the wind died away and the weather promised fair. The captain assured us at breakfast that during the whole course of twenty years' experience, he never had witnessed a more dangerous night than the last : and contrary to the usual custom of sailors, who only pray as long as the danger lasts, he returned thanks to providence for our escape, and for not having ventured among the islands where we must have inevitably perished.

The next day we were nearly abreast of the island of Candia, ancient Crete, the largest island of the Archipelago, subject to the Grand Signior, formerly so renowned for the government and laws of Minos, now only remarkable for its poverty and the wretchedness, ignorance, and barbarity of its inhabitants.

The calm continued almost uninterruptedly for several days, and though we were sorry not to move more expeditiously towards the end of our voyage, yet we could but enjoy the fineness of the weather : for two days we were very near Candia, the mountains of which are very high. At length we passed it, and entering the Aegean Sea we found ourselves in the midst of the Cyclades.

The sailing was here truly delightful, and every object interesting. We passed most of our time on deck. The water was smooth as a continued sheet of glass, so that we were scarcely sensible of its undulation, while the moderate heat of the sun and the happy temperature of the air rendered the climate grateful in the highest degree.

This day we passed the islands of Melos, Paros, Narcos,³ and Delos, and Andros ; and thought we could discover on Delos the remains of the temples of Apollo and Diana which are still to be seen there.

In the narrow passage which separates Andros from the peninsula of the Negropont, on which Athens stood ,⁴ we were a whole day becalmed, and regretted indeed not

having it in our power to visit the ruins of that renowned city : but we knew too well the danger of our landing without permission or janissaries to protect us.

November the 28th.

We this day ran along the island of Chios, or Scio, celebrated for its fertility, and at the present day far excelling every other island of the Archipelago, as well in the beauty of the country as the industry of its inhabitants. The neighbouring islands draw from it the corn necessary for their support ; and large quantities are also annually exported for the Constantinople and Smyrna markets : they likewise carry on a considerable trade in silks and wines.

Our spirits were considerably elevated by the information we here received from our captain, that [we] were now distant from Smyrna not more than twenty leagues, which he expected to run by the next day. The night was very still and on the morning of the 29th we were abreast of Cape Colaburno,⁵ which forms one point of the Gulf of Smyrna ; and here we had the mortification to lie the whole day becalmed, and on the 30th, made the Isles des Anglois in the Gulf of Smyrna.

We this morning passed the Orlac ⁶ Islands, and assisted by a light breeze we soon were off the castle of Smyrna, where we saluted the Turkish flag, which has not here any means of enforcing respect, as the castle is literally a ruin and mounts only two or three pieces of old ordnance. Proceeding to make sail for the town, we discovered an English frigate, the Ambuscade, which we also saluted with five guns, and received the compliment in return. It fell calm at twelve in sight of the town. We received a visit from one of the officers of the Ambuscade, Mr. S-⁷, who came on board to inquire the news from England. He informed us that they spoke of the plague at Smyrna, and that some people had already died of it. I must confess that my courage failed me at the very sound of the word plague, and I found myself rather alarmed ; but I learned afterwards that the death of two or three persons in one day was thought of no consequence at Smyrna.

In the evening we saluted the town and received the bienvenue from above fifty ships of different nations, by each of them firing a salute on our arrival. We were also favoured with visits from different gentlemen of the town; among them were the Messrs. L-s,⁸ from whom we received the most cordial reception : we accompanied them on shore, and had the pleasure of being most agreeably surprised by finding at their house a most amiable mother,⁹ with four still more amiable daughters, to whom they introduced us with all the ease and unreserved familiarity of old and sincere friends. I was, without a further ceremonies, to seat myself at the tendour, next to Mademoiselle Margotten, who with all the naiveté in the world began to explain to me the use and advantages of this piece of household furniture, [of] which she well perceived I had never seen the like before.

In Turkey none of the rooms have fire-places. The tendour is used in their stead. It is a square table with several quilted coverings spread over it which reach down to the ground. Underneath the table is a large copper in which [charcoal?] or embers are placed; the knees of each person round the table are covered with the quilted counterpane, and the head confined under the tendour, renders this place the most comfortable and of course the most frequented spot in the apartment. Round this, little parties are always assembled, either to read, work or for other amusements. In cold weather the hands are warmed under the coverlids, and sympathy sometimes brings them into contact with those of your fair neighbour. Of the society in this family I cannot say too much ; and we afterwards experienced much pleasure with many advan tages from this acquaintance. Mrs. M-,¹⁰ aunt to our hosts, the two Mr. L-s,¹¹ was a most amiable, cheerful woman, and passionately fond of her four most amiable daughters. Never did exist a family more united, and I may say, more deservedly happy. The girls, beautiful and accomplished, were all that the prudent mother could wish them ; they repaid with every grace the pains taken by their parent in their education. These fair sisters were the first Smyrneottes we had seen, and from their beauty we formed a most favourable opinion of the charms of their countrywomen. Affable and unaffected in their manners as in their conversation, they heardwith a wish to learn, and always answered with much sense and politeness, divested of all constraint, with a certain vivacity which was really fascinating. At six o'clock tea was served a l'Angloise, and after it was over the ladies requested us to accompany them to what is called at Smyrna the Avant Souper, where we went on foot, attended by servants with lanterns. This society is supported among the Christian families of the city, and is held at the house of each person every night alternately. It was held this evening at the house of a member of the British factory, where we met Mr. _¹² our Consul, and all the principal persons of the town. The scene was novel and interesting, and the various habits made the rooms appear as if they were open for a masquerade, and having hunted me successfully at a Pharao¹³ [sic] bank held by two Greeks, at eleven o'clock I accompanied our party home and immediately returned to our ship for this night, having left our trunks and other necessaries still on board.

December the 2nd.

We employed this morning in preparing our dispatches for Europe ; as we were informed that a mail for Marseilles was to be dispatched this day. After we had written our letters we returned from on board, and on our landing we were told that it was absolutely necessary for us to go to the custom-house in order to get our trunks. The Customs of this great city were farmed by a proud Turk who did not understand our not appearing ourselves : therefore informed of this gentleman's way of thinking, and his great attachment to a small fee, I put a spyglass in my pocket and, accompanied by Mr. L - and his dragoman, we proceeded to the custom-house, where we found this long-bearded Fermiergeneral already waiting for us ; and were informed that he meant to receive us in state.

Having been shewn into his presence-chamber, we found him seated on the ground : he did not favour us with a look, but ordered us to be seated and pipes to be given. I had not been long enough in Turkey to have adopted the custom of smoking ; yet I was informed by Mr. L- that it would be deemed highly uncivil if I did not at least affect to smoke. I was therefore compelled to put a pipe to my lips, and having sat a quarter of an hour without one syllable being uttered, though there were more than twenty people in the room, sweetmeats were served and afterwards a little coffee without sugar. The refreshments over, this Head of the Customs at length broke silence, and inquired if we had anything in our trunks besides wearing apparel. Being informed that we had not, he immediately gave orders that our luggage should be carried off unopened. I presented him afterwards with my spy-glass, which he did me the honour of accepting without looking at it, or even thanking me for it.

I was struck, for the moment, with such uncivil manners, but on becoming more acquainted with the genius of the Turks, I found this to proceed not from ill breeding but pride. They do not wish you to suppose that anything so trifling could raise a smile on their countenance, or afford them the least satisfaction. Besides, a Turk, when he receives a present from a Christian, imagines that he confers the obligation, and would not have you suppose it possible you could oblige hire, were you to present him with half your fortune. However, having no wish to induce my custom-house friend, by so high a compliment, to change his opinion ; [I] gave him leave to pocket my spy-glass, with whatever ideas he pleased. I wished to be gone, and desiring the dragoman to pay him, on my part, as many compliments as he thought proper, I took my leave and returned to Mrs. L-'s.

In the evening we had the honour of receiving visits from the most respectable gentlemen in the town, among whom was Mr. Hays,¹⁴ the British Consul. After tea, we again had the pleasure of accompanying the family to the Avant Souper, which was held at the house of a Dutch gentleman ¹⁵

We met nearly the same company as the preceding evening, and had the good fortune of being introduced to a gentleman who had travelled much in Syria. I am indebted to him for no little information, respecting the different modes of travelling ; as also the necessary measures to be taken to prevent frequent impositions and to escape the attacks of the Arabs. He informed me that I ought not by any means to wear the European dress ; that wherever I passed I should be very circumspect in my behaviour ; appear to possess as few valuables as possible ; that I should travel with a small guard in preference to a great escort ; join no caravans, as they were frequently in league with those wandering tribes of Arabs whose only pursuit is plunder and robbery : that I should proceed with few attendants, as little baggage as possible ; but by all means that I should be well armed.

This gentleman advised us likewise, that in case we were stopped by the Arabs, we should not appear in the least dismayed, but peremptorily refuse giving up any part of our property; however, that we should at all events be prepared with a purse containing some money, which we should give them with the worst grace possible, in case they threatened to ill treat us ; as it is much more prudent to pacify than fight them; informing them at the same time that sooner than be stopped a second time, by any of their fellow freebooters, we were determined to risk our lives in our defence.

I treasured up the advice of this well-informed and good-natured gentleman, fully determined to profit by it when circumstances should render its application useful.

December the 3rd.

We went to see a caravan that had arrived the preceding evening. It was composed of two hundred and fifty camels, with one hundred leaders and fifty soldiers to defend them. When on their march, two of the soldiers are at half a mile's distance, forming an avant garde, in order to reconnoiter. The others are in the centre, assembled under one banner, always ready to repel the attacks of the wandering Arabs, whose chief object is to disperse the caravan, that they may plunder it with the greater facility for they are very averse to come to desperate measures, unless some of their Arabs are previously wounded. The caravans that proceed to Mecca and have a general rendezvous are not so numerous as the others.

Nothing can be more interesting and curious than the manner of loading the camels, who regularly obey the whistle of their masters. At the first whistle they bend the first joint of their fore-feet and rest on the second ; if this posture be too elevated, the leader whistles a second time and the animal squats as low as possible. On the third call it rises and proceeds on its journey. Nothing can exceed the docility and patience of these animals. Though they take very large strides they proceed but slowly, and do not perform a greater journey in one day than a man at an ordinary pace can accomplish. They travel about thirty miles in thirteen hours, sleep but very little, tremble at the shaking of a leaf, and are stopped by the smallest impediment. Their moderation in eating and drinking is greater than that of any other known animal. They are sometimes four days without drinking and their food consists of some dry or burnt leaves: sometimes they give them a ball of paste, which `they swallow and afterwards chew for the whole day. (They proceed without a bridle or collar, and obey the voice of their leader. If you add to all their qualities the advantage that is derived from camels-hair, of which those stuffs known by the name of camlets are manufactured, it may be easily supposed that these animals are in the greatest request. On our return we rambled about 'for more than two hours, till we completely lost our way, and it was not possible for us to get any information from those we met by any signs we could make, as we were `not attended by a guide; Smyrna being one of the few towns in Turkey where foreigners are allowed to go out ''without janissaries. In this dilemma we walked from one street to another, till at length we found ourselves before a very magnificent building, which appeared to us to be the banqueting-room of some rich jolly Turk.

Perceiving the door of the portico open, we attempted to enter it. We had not proceeded far when on a sudden we were stopped by a Turk who appeared very angry: hemade many gestures to skew us his displeasure ; and "'[had] his long harangue been intelligible to us, we should, no doubt have found it replete with abuse.

We were submissively taking our departure when another Turk of apparently superior consequence to him who had roughly addressed us, approached, and after speaking to him, made signs to us to follow him into the building. As soon as we entered the first door our conductor took off his slippers, and made a sign to us to imitate his example; this we immediately complied with, and on opening the second door we found ourselves, to our great surprise, in a Mosque.

The Turks on entering departed from us, and left us to make our own remarks ; and we soon perceived that they had withdrawn for the purpose of devotion; as we saw them on their knees, as well as many other Turks in different parts of the building bowing frequently to the ground and apparently worshipping with the most fixed attention and ardent devotion. All was silence, and everything to us solemn as it was novel. We stood for a considerable time here looking at the building and examining the walls, which were divided in compartments, and adorned with texts from the Koran and different articles of their faith in gold characters, which seemed clumsily executed. During this period not one Turk out of twenty that were there even lifted up his eyes to regard us, so intent were they on their devotion, which they perform with a degree of propriety and respectful solemnity that we rarely see observed by the more enlightened congregations of European churches.

Having now satisfied our curiosity we thought it prudent to withdraw, and having resumed our shoes at the door, we soon gained the street, where we fortunately met a Greek who understood Italian and directed us in our way home, where, after having related our adventures, we were felicitated on our narrow escape, as they termed it, in not having been most grossly insulted or in not having met with even worse than insults, as has happened more than once to Christians. If we had proceeded by ourselves as far as into the Mosque with our shoes on, which, had we not been met, we should certainly have done, there is no doubt but that our indiscretion would have been attended with the most serious consequences.

The next place where curiosity led us was a Turkish Bath, and we examined very minutely the process in using this principal article of luxury among the oriental nations.

You first enter a large vaulted apartment, very lofty and of an octagonal form. In the centre is an immense bath of four feet in depth. On our entrance there were about twenty Turks in it, sitting and squatting in the bottom of this bason ; nor did they appear to take the smallest notice of us, tho' we were paying particular attention to them, and were asking numberless questions. The sides of this bath were of marble, and round it is a kind of gallery which serves as a place of exercise to those who have done bathing and who walk several times round it. In the walls of this apartment are several niches, each large enough to contain two persons : these are always occupied by those who are just come out of the water for the purpose of being rubbed with a kind of coarse, hard cloth, which has a much greater effect than a flesh brush. The steam that arises from the bason in the centre, which is kept moderately heated, makes the room warm enough to permit those in the niches to remain there as long as they think proper without running any risk of catching cold.

There were not less than fifty naked people in the different parts of this chamber, who appeared not at all discomposed at our presence, but preserved all their characteristic gravity. Some had been rubbed with the hand, others with the cloth, and some remained still sitting in the bath.

After they have amused themselves here as long as they like, they repair to an inner apartment of about half the size of the former, where the heat is considerably increased. There are large flat stones on which they seat themselves, and seconded by the intense heat of the vapour which issues from every part of the room, the perspiration soon begins; which, after it has continued for some time, the patient (for though the Turk undergoes this ceremony for pleasure, I cannot help giving him this appellation) is shown into another chamber where the heat is still more violent. Here he can go no further, nor could anything but custom and habit from his infancy enable him to go thus far; for the heat of this place was so intense that I found much difficulty in respiration, though I did not remain in it many seconds.

Notwithstanding the excessive heat of the apartment, a Turk will amuse himself by sitting here for an hour at a time, till every pore is open. He then calls in his slaves, who alternately rub him with their hands and pull his joints till he thinks them sufficiently supple ; when, after perfuming his beard with the most costly essences, he retires into his haram to finish the day

Having paid three piastres, the price of my curiosity, I quitted the Bath and proceeded with my friends to visit the manufactories.

We first visited the Lead-foundry, where they make shot and cast bullets : of the latter there were several tons ready to be sent to the Vizier's Camp. There are about two hundred persons employed in this foundry : but the clumsiness of their implements, their ignorance of the mechanic powers, a knowledge of which would so much facilitate their operations, and, above all, their bigoted attachment to their primitive usages, which precludes every possibility of improvement, declare them in this, as in other arts, centuries behind European nations.

I observed to my conductors how much I was surprised at seeing the tail of the bullets left just as they came from the mould. I was informed that the Turks preferred this mode, from a supposition that the wound made by a ball in this state would be the more difficult to cure, and consequently more destructive, never considering that it would impede the velocity of the ball and render its range so uncertain as to prevent the best 'marksman from hitting his object.

Having seen enough of this despicable manufactory, and finding the hour of dinner at hand, we proceeded homewards and on our way stopt for a few minutes at a great carpet manufactory, for which this city is famous. We were shown a great variety of carpets, some of which were very beautiful. The colours were lively and the designs executed with a great deal of taste.

My time now becoming precious, I found it necessary to proceed on my journey ; and therefore determined to set out immediately by land for Constantinople. I sent for Captain M-¹⁶ of the London, who agreed to wait three weeks or a month for my return, when he was to land me at St. Jean de Acre, or the Port of Jaffa, on the coast of Syria, and likewise to touch at the island of Cyprus on his way. This business being arranged, I applied to my friend Mr. L-¹⁷ to assist us in procuring a guard of janissaries, as well as a guide and mules. This worthy gentleman, on my first mentioning our intention of going to Constantinople by land, remonstrated with me against it, on account of the season, and more particularly on account of the war : dreading that we should meet with parties of the victorious Turks, returning from the camp, who are always insolent, and frequently rob and murder travellers. He used many other arguments to dissuade me from this arduous undertaking, but finding me determined, he acquiesced with reluctance, and promised to afford us every assistance in his power.

December the 4th.

I completed, to my very great satisfaction, one principal piece of business respecting my journey. I hired a servant, a guide and interpreter, a companion and a guard : and all these essential qualities I found centred in one man. He was an Armenian, and well versed in the modes of travelling in Turkey : he spoke all languages ; had travelled over most of the globe ; and had a very good character from many respectable gentlemen of Smyrna. This fellow proved afterwards of the greatest service to me ; and I really think that without him we should never have arrived at Constantinople. He had already been there twice by land, and assured me that there was no other danger to be apprehended than that resulting from extreme fatigue. He recommended plenty of ammunition and to provide ourselves with guns, pistols and carabines. I already liked my Armenian, and he on his side swore by the holy Sepulchre that he would with much pleasure lose his life to serve me. He began to relate his wars with the Arabs on his way to Jerusalem, where he had likewise been, and assured me that he had shot many of those wandering plunderers. Whether the fellow was lying or telling the truth, I considered not ; he succeeded in amusing me a good deal, which I found was his intention.

Captain W-¹⁸ who had accompanied me from London, and who had been confined for some days by a rheumatic complaint, not thinking it prudent to encounter the difficulties and fatigues to which we were likely to be exposed, decided on staying here until he should be reestablished. This, of course, lessened our party ; but Captain M_¹⁹ and I persisted in our intention, and now all our arrangements being made, we took our leave of the amiable and friendly family from whom we had received so much kindness, and at four o'clock in the evening we set out on our journey.

Mr. L- the younger, and Mr. M-²⁰, brother to the young ladies I have before mentioned as members of Mr. L-'s²¹ family, insisted on accompanying us part of the way to Bournat-Bat,²² five miles and an half from Smyrna, where we intended to pass the night. Captain M- and I were mounted on very good horses, which our friends had procured for us for our whole journey. Our party consisted of seven persons, one of them a janissary, who served us as guide, the rest servants and a black slave, to drive our mules that carried our beds, baggage, etc. Never in my life was I more charmed with an evening ride ! The country had the appearance of richness. We saw some cotton plantations and a variety of shrubs, the spontaneous productions of the soil ; and the month of the year, though December, bore all the appearance of the finest evening in June. The air was warm, the sky serene ; the birds were singing on every bush; the spring had already commenced, and vegetables of various kinds were growing spontaneously on each side of the road. What most particularly engrossed my attention were the hedges of myrtle which form the most common fence to the gardens about Smyrna, and are here and there interspersed with the wild geranium, in full bloom. These hedges diffused the most fragrant as well as the most refreshing odours. The most common trees, in the neighbourhood of Smyrna, I observed to be the orange and lemon and a variety of evergreens.

We arrived at the little village just as silent night was about to draw her sable mantle over the earth.

I had almost forgotten the Fountain of Diana, which is on the road to Bournat-Bat. Indeed were it not for the fineness of the spring, which is in this country a great acquisition, and the name of the chaste goddess with which tradition has honoured it, it would little merit attention. The remains of an arch, apparently a very ancient structure, by which it was covered, are still visible; and some slabs of marble are placed beside the spring in form of an oblong square, on which the story says that [the] goddess and her nymphs were wont to perform their ablutions. This part of the fable, I believe, induced us to examine the well with more attention than we should have otherwise done ; and however impious it might be, we could not suppress a wish that the goddess and her nymphs had been there, hoping that we should be thought at least as worthy of their divine favour as Messrs. Pan, Orion, and Endymion, with all of whom the chastity of the goddess has been impeached, notwithstanding her most singular petition to Jove to grant her that, which to deprive others of, he had assumed so many forms, under all of which he was equally successful. Oh happy ye, when a Cuckoo, a Bull or a Swan (how different from our times!) had equal influence over the female mind with a shower of gold !

Bournat-Bat, situated at the opposite [side] of the Bay of Smyrna, is a very neat village, and can boast of having the best house in all Asia for the reception of travellers. It is kept by an Italian woman, who keeps a billiard table. This house is properly speaking the Vauxhall of Smyrna, and a place of meeting for amusement and recreation for all the captains of the trading vessels in the Bay. The lady did us the honour of presiding at table, and as she had no doubt premeditated a long bill, she also entertained us with long stories, by way of passing the time more pleasantly.

Her claret however was excellent, nor did she wish that we should spare it. We had tolerably good beds, which is a very great rarity in Turkey ; and this is perhaps the only place where anything better than the bare boards could be procured.

During all my travels in Asia I thought myself happy when I could get some clean uncut straw on which I might spread my blankets. I mention uncut straw because the Turks, feeding their horses and cattle principally on it, cut the straw very small, immediately after the corn is threshed, and put it into large hair bags in which they send it to the market. They never litter their horses, but make them lie on the boards, and we were frequently compelled to do the same. We rose early on the following day and took our leave of our good landlady, who made us pay thirty-six dollars, being equal to five pounds eight shillings sterling, for her friendly and comfortable accommodations. Our escort consisted of nine mules, three of which carried our provisions for the journey, as we had nothing to expect on the road, and having to travel nearly three hundred miles on the same animals, it was necessary to spare them as much as possible, which would of course render our progress slow. The sun was just rising as we ascended the mountain called Yachaku,²³ which commands the town and Bay of Smyrna. I do not remember ever having seen so beautiful a landscape : nor can I suppose that there is in the universe a richer or grander prospect than presented itself to our view from this mountain. The variety of flowering shrubs, particularly the arbutus, now quite covered with berries, growing in vast quantities on the sides of the mountain ; the flocks and herds grazing in the valleys ; the noble appearance of the town ; the extensive Bay and shipping of every nation, formed altogether the most beautiful coup d'oeil in the world, and with the splendour of the morning inspired us with sensations the most pleasing.

I could not help observing to my friend how surprised I was that more of our countrymen did not direct their travels to this delightful country ; for I will venture to assert that no part of the globe is better worth their attention, or would more amply repay their trouble and expense than the country from Smyrna to the old and magnificent town of Magnesia, once the capital of the Ottoman Empire, which, as well as its environs, still retains so much grandeur.

Having spent half an hour on this mountain, almost lost in admiration, we set off by the advice of my faithful Pauolo, full gallop to come up with our baggage and janissaries, who had gone on before us. We soon overtook them at the entrance of a wood, which consisted chiefly of forest trees, such as oak, elm, and pine ; all, however, of inferior growth, and intermixed with the fig, olive, and almond : there was also a vast quantity of dwarf holly, which formed a very thick underwood. The arbutus and the oleander were likewise frequent.

We now heard, for the first time, the drowsy noise of a caravan, which we soon overtook. It consisted of about thirty camels, all heavily laden. They formed a long string, and were fastened to one another by a ring which passed through the nostrils of each, and was tied to the tail of the foremost. Their pace was about the same as that of one of our heaviest waggons in England, but they have the advantage of performing much longer journeys, as they seldom stop to feed. This novel sight for some time engrossed our attention; but in the course of a few days we were habituated to it, and it soon lost its power of pleasing from the frequent repetition and the tedious sameness of the object.

The country around seemed in a state of nature; yet displayed an uniform appearance of richness and fertility. We perceived but few cottages, and these were only the temporary abodes of shepherds, where the ragged ensigns of poverty were displayed, and the appearance of the inhabitants bespoke their wretchedness, as much as the neglected state of so fine a country indicated the badness of the government to which it was subject. From the hills we perceived many villages in a plain to our right, and saw the ruins of one that had been destroyed not long before by a minister of the Porte, the inhabitants having refused, most likely from inability, to furnish a large sum of money which this avaricious and cruel tyrant had demanded. The name of this dismantled village is Palamont : it had been inhabited by about five hundred families, who were all put to the sword without distinction of age or sex. Thus do these devoted people frequently fall victims to the rapacity and relentless cruelty of barbarous and despotic tyrants, who under the mask of duty to their sovereign veil the most atrocious acts of cruelty and oppression.

After three hours' ride at the rate or about four miles an hour we arrived at a coffee-house, where our guide, Pauolo, advised us to stop in order to refresh ourselves and our mules. You meet very frequently with these houses in Turkey; and here the traveller may stop if he chooses, and be accommodated with coffee without sugar and a pipe. We entered a little cottage not unlike an Irish barn. It was built of mud and straw, and not more remarkable for its furniture within than its architecture without. The only moveables in the house [were] a couple of mats, on which we spread our repast ; and though we were surrounded by Turks, who were enjoying their pipes, we made an excellent meal on cold partridge which our good friend at Smyrna had packed up for us, with a liberal allowance of Madeira wine to last for our journey.

The first object that engaged my attention, after leaving our hotel, was a Burying-ground. It was surrounded, as all these places are, with lofty cypresses.

I was much surprised at the sight of such an immense number of graves, most of them recently dug: but I soon recollected that I was travelling through a country where the plague seldom intermits for any length of time : and upon inquiring I found that above one thousand of these graves had been made about four months back, when the plague raged at Smyrna, and in its vicinity. These considerations for some time damped our spirits, and inspired us with gloomy and dismal ideas. Over each of these graves is a stone of about four feet in height, set upright and a turban carved on the top. They are painted in different colours, as red, white and green. Those who are honoured with the latter have their origin from Mahomet and call themselves his descendants.. They are looked upon as of the same family and no others are permitted to have the green turban on their tombs after their decease.

We travelled for the remainder of the day over a fine country, the soil of which shewed everywhere marks or richness and fertility. The road, if we may give it that name, was very bad, and indeed not passable for carriages; but we saw no obstacles to impede the equestrian traveller, as the grounds were without enclosures. The greatest part of the country was planted with cotton trees, and those plantations were remarkably well cultivated and cleared of weeds, the cotton plants being set at equal distances of about three feet.

Towards evening we arrived at the summit of a very lofty mountain, from whence we discovered the extensive plain of Magnesia and could trace with the eye thewinding course of the celebrated Meander.²⁴ The town itself is at the distance of about six miles. We intended stopping at Magnesia for the night, and therefore made as much haste as we possibly could in order to have sufficient time to see the town.

On our arrival we found much difficulty in getting a lodging for the night. My faithful Pauolo at length obtained permission for us to lie under the gateway of a large court where the caravans put up. There was a little room without windows, which did not hold out to us the most pleasing prospect of the rest of our entertainment for the night. We had our beds spread on the ground, and sending Pauolo to buy us some provisions, we went, accompanied by a janissary to stroll about the town.

We did not perceive any vestige or monument of Magnesia having been once the seat of the Ottoman Court. The houses are ill built and mostly of wood ; the :streets narrow and dirty. This had been the seat of the Eastern Empire, till, on the 19th of May 1453, Mahomet the second took Constantinople from Constantine Paleologus, and removed his Court to that celebrated city. Magnesia contains above one hundred thousand inhabitants, and next to Smyrna is the town of most trade in Turkey; being situated in one of the richest and most extensive plains in the universe. It has been distinguished for the fertility of its soil, and it is now one of the chief sources of supply to the cotton market of Smyrna.

This district, even in the time of Themistocles, four hundred and fifty years before the Christian era, was bestowed on him, on account of its fertility, by Artaxerxes Longimanus, King of Asia. And that noble Athenian chose this spot for his residence, when dismissed by Artaxerxes from his Court at Susa, whither he had fled to seek an asylum from the persecutions of the Greeks [sic] and Lacedemonians. Cornelius Nepos informs us that the revenues of this district then amounted to fifty talents (£11,250), and at the same time makes mention of the other districts which Themistocles held through the liberality of the Persian monarch. That illustrious general resided here many years, and on being solicited by his benefactor Artaxerxes to march an army against the Athenians he here swallowed poison, to avoid at once the imputation of ingratitude and the odium he must have incurred by fighting against his country. The Magnesians erected a magnificent monument to his memory in the great square in this city, which existed in the time of Plutarch ; but neither square or monument is now visible.

The Governor of this great and profitable district is a most extraordinary man. Though a Turk, he is possessed of talents much superior to those of his countrymen in general, and has extended his knowledge beyond the limits of the very small circle to which theirs is generally confined. He has raised himself by his abilities into some degree of credit with the Porte, and obtained the confidence of the Grand Signior.²⁵ The information he had acquired respecting the commerce of this country induced him to fix on this spot as an eligible situation in which to establish himself. He first made a calculation of its produce, considering at the same time the failure of the crops, to which all countries, but some parts of Turkey in particular, are more or less subject. He afterwards made his agreement with the Porte on the subject of the tribute he was to pay. He succeeded in it with such surprising accuracy and managed this important matter with so much address that he has constantly been able to gratify the most unreasonable demands of the Ottoman Ministry. He iudiciously foresaw that his success and elevation would soon be followed by the loss of the favour of the suspicious Sultan, and wisely anticipated the exorbitant increase of tribute which his enemies would require when they saw him deprived of the countenance of his Sovereign. This in reality happened a few years afterwards : his imposts were at once more than doubled and successive augmentations having taken place, he now pays one hundred thousand pounds sterling per year, which is more than double the sum that the whole produce of his district was ever supposed to be worth. This he has been enabled to do by gradually improving the cultivation of his lands and introducing an economy in farming hitherto unknown, and by which he is said to have realised an immense fortune.

This wonderful man is the friend of the peasant and adored by his dependants. The regular remittances of a sum which so far exceeds the expectation of the Porte, is said to be the thread on which the head of this enlightened Turk now depends, and should a peace take place with the Russians, which must lessen the demands on the Grand Signior's coffers, it is supposed that he would fall one of the first victims to the jealous rage of the party now in power. Such is the ingratitude and unjust conduct of this abominable Government, under which a subject must ever be wretched and unhappy.

December the 7th.

We proceeded on our journey, and the first part of this day's ride was very unpleasant, as we had for three miles a bad causeway to travel over till we approached the Meander,²⁶ over which there was a wooden bridge of considerable height and length, without battlements and very narrow ; and the construction of it appeared so feeble, that we did not cross it without apprehensions. Here we paused to view this celebrated stream, and bring to our recollection the great events which took place on its banks and will perpetuate its name. Here we fancied we trod the ground where the great Antiochus sustained a total overthrow from Lucius Scipio one hundred and fifty years before Christ,²⁷ in which he lost fifty thousand foot and four thousand horse with fifteen elephants.

At twelve we reached a poor village called Zachonona about fifteen miles from Magnesia. We had sent our mules with the baggage forward. As we reached this place before them, and had not passed them on the road, we were seriously alarmed, and apprehended that the black slave who was with the baggage had either run off with our effects or was plundered. We remained for two hours in this painful suspense, and were at length relieved by the arrival of the negro, who had taken a different road, by which he had gone several miles out of his way. After having blamed each other for having separated from him, as he had in his possession every valuable and all our money, we resolved to be more prudent for the future.

We retired to a kind of barn, where we made a violent attack on our cold provisions. We removed part of our valuables from the trunks and secured them in [our] own pockots. Here we were honoured with a visit from the Governor of the village, accompanied by fifty other Turks who all appeared in uniform misery. They seated themselves on the ground around us and entertained themselves with admiring our fire-arms, which, we were pleased to find, they were sensible of being well loaded.

After our dinner we went eighteen miles farther to the town of Auctozaar,²⁸ and alighted at a caravansary inhabited by Greeks who carried on a manufactory of cotton, for sail-making and other common purposes of the country. The accommodation was most wretched. We were all obliged to lie down in the same room: nor could we get provisions of any kind. It had rained all day; we were wet through; and, to complete our misfortune, we had neither fire or fire-place ; nor could we procure even a dish of charcoal to dry our clothes. A traveller, however, must expect to encounter difficulties and disappointments, particularly in these countries. Habit teaches us to despise them, and the pleasure we experience from having surmounted obstacles seems to be in proportion to their magnitude.

The next morning bore a more favourable appearance. We travelled over a country uncommonly beautiful ; diversified with eminences, covered with woods and vast herds of cattle and the most beautiful flocks of sheep with flat tails and long pendent ears, the former of an immense size. We observed no habitation, nor passed any village, for the first five hours of our ride through a most romantic country. We halted to breakfast by the side of a fountain built by the bounty of some penitent and charitable Turk. This is considered by them an act most meritorious and benevolent; and so it really is, when situated so as to furnish to the weary traveller the refreshing draught which he could not otherwise procure.

We soon bid adieu to the fountain which had refreshed us, and continued our route over a mountainous and very wild country, and in five hours arrived at a small village called Gelembé,²⁹ where a small mud-walled room afforded us shelter. We had some very tough fowls killed for our supper, and comforting ourselves with the hopes, of a good night's rest, we went to bed at eight, having had some clean straw spread under our matresses.

In the night, the dogs made so much noise that our sleep was hourly interrupted. It was not the first time that we had been annoyed by these animals, which abound in most of the Turkish towns; not appertainingto any individual, they infest the streets in large packs, and in the night (particularly when it is moonlight) they keep up a most dismal howling. We have frequently counted an hundred of them together. They are of the wolf and mastiff kind, and very large. It is extraordinary that in this country where the heat is excessive in summer these dogs are never known to go mad.

In the morning our landlord had prepared for us acouple of boiled turkeys, some eggs and milk, which made ample amends for our bad supper.

We had proceeded but a few miles, when it began to rain violently and continued the whole day without intermission. Our Greek capots, which we were assured at Smyrna would resist twelve hours' rain, were wet through in less than three. The additional weight of our clothes when wet soon knocked up our wretched mules, so that after a most disagreeable ride of eight hours we were obliged to take up our residence for the night in such an habitation as few Europeans have ever visited. It was a wretched hovel of twenty feet long, at one end of which were some cows and sheep, which we turned out to make room for horses, while [we] were obliged to Gelembeh. content ourselves with the other corner. To complete our misery, we had no provisions left, and could procure nothing but some stinking camel's flesh, highly seasoned with garlic, and [which] is here esteemed a most delicate viand by the conductors of caravans who frequent these roads.

In the morning I was astonished to find that my faithful Pauolo had, during the night, baked some bread, made of some coarse flour which he was fortunate enough to find in the village, and procured some sheep's milk, so that we were able to make a most delicious breakfast. It cannot be imagined how much such little attentions are valued in a servant : when removed from all friends and relations, in a savage and remote country, your personal influence and property lose their weight and consequence and you are left to shift for yourself, with those advantages which nature and not any fortuitous circumstances may have bestowed on you. In such a situation the servant has, very often, the advantage over his master, either by his personal strength, his unimpaired constitution, or his knowledge of useful arts. If to these qualifications he adds, as my dear Pauolo did, a good and feeling heart, a sensible mind, a cheerful disposition and a fidelity that cannot be shaken, he then becomes a most valuable friend : he is your companion, and you cheerfully and implicitly look up to him for that assistance which you cannot derive from your own powers, and which he bestows with the beneficence of a friend and the respectful submission of an inferior.

On the two following days we had a most disagreeable and fatiguing journey to perform, as the country was wretched and scarcely exhibited any appearance of population or improvement of any kind. The hills were covered with brushwood, and the rains had made such deep ruts in the roads that in many places we had much difficulty in getting over them. We met with nothing curious or interesting, except on the second day we overtook a Turkish guard consisting of an Agha and about twenty janissaries. They had with them an unfortunate Greek as a prisoner : he was tied by his legs under the horse's belly, and his hands were tied behind his back. On inquiry we were informed that this man was one of the relations of the late Governor of Scio who had been beheaded some time before at Constantinople. This poor prisoner was going then to suffer a similar fate. He appeared much dejected and seldom spoke to those about him. While I most sincerely sympathized with this unhappy victim, I felt a glow of exultation which I could not suppress, when I reflected on the preeminence of that most excellent constitution which we enjoy as British subjects, by which our lives and properties are so well secured. We continued with this escort for upwards of three hours, when we found that our mules were not equal to the fine horses of the Pasha, and that we could not accompany them at the rate they travelled, though it did not exceed four miles an hour.

We stopt under the shade of a beautiful hanging rock, covered with arbutus, where we refreshed ourselves, at the same [time] allowing our horses to pasture around us. We were met here by some foot-travellers who informed us that in all likelihood we should be attacked before we reached the place of our destination, which was at about twelve miles' distance. They said that there was a number of deserters from the Grand Vizier's army, who had encamped in this part of the country; that they robbed and massacred every traveller they met and had already assassinated many people. I concealed my apprehensions as well as I could, for fear of alarming our janissaries. Captain M-³⁰ and I consulted what was to be done. We determined to load our fire-arms anew and to make a most desperate resistance, being well convinced that nothing but the most determined courage could extricate us from the hands of such desperadoes. I informed my Armenian servant of our intentions, who seemed pleased to meet with an opportunity of manifesting his fidelity and courage. He swore that he would die by me; and threatened to shoot the first of our band who should attempt to run away, or refuse to assist us when attacked.

His animated and enthusiastic manner of talking inspired the whole troop with an ardent desire of signalizing their valour. I knew that I could trust to the courage of my Irish servant,³¹ and if I entertained a doubt of any one it was of those who should be the foremost in protecting us-1 mean our guard and guides, whom we had hired at Smyrna for that very purpose.

At four in the afternoon we perceived, at the distance of a mile, a number of people to the amount of thirty, who were assembling together and coming towards us. Through my glass I could discover that they were but indifferently armed. Only ten or twelve of them had guns; the rest were armed with bludgeons and daggers. I informed my little caravan of this circumstance, which appeared to diffuse universal joy. However, as we drew nearer, it was deemed necessary to form some plan or defence. M- being the soldier, I submitted to him the direction of our manoeuvre; and it was accordingly resolved that we should proceed two by two. He and I went first, each of us having a double-barrelled gun and a case of double-barrelled pistols. My servant Pauolo and a janissary came next, my Irish servant and another ianissary afterwards, and close behind followed our baggage. My servants, to do them justice, did not appear in the least intimidated ; but all the rest seemed irresolute and much agitated : and had not M- and I gone foremost, I am convinced we should have been deserted by the janissaries.

The gang was now within pistol shot of us, when it was proposed that we should [halt] and wait their coming up : this was agreed on by all, except the impatient Pauolo, who was for giving them the first fire, and then by impetuously rushing on them to disperse and put them into confusion. However, he obeyed my injunctions, which were not to attack until the party's intentions should appear hostile. When they saw us stop, they did the same, and it was easily perceived that they were more frightened than we were. Whereupon, I ordered Pauolo to ask them what their intentions were. They assured him that they were poor sailors, on their way home, and that their intentions were perfectly peaceable and friendly. I was convinced of the truth of this,, and gave them some money, by way of compensation for having so wrongfully suspected them. Breathing again a little more freely, we congratulated each other that we had not been forced to fight. The alarm, however, proved of some use to us, as it served to make the Janissaries uncommonly alert in driving on the tired mules, wishing to get to the place of our destination before dark.

We pushed forward with all possible expedition and arrived by seven. We alighted at a coffee-house where by much pecuniary eloquence, which is as persuasive in this country as in any other, we prevailed on the landlord to dislodge some Turks who were in possession of the room, smoking and drinking coffee. Here we were tolerably comfortable for the night.

December the 11th.

It had rained all the morning, and we travelled through a most comfortless country, till we arrived on the bank of a very large river, now called Maccatitch, but formerly Maceston.³² Here a most violent dispute arose between Captain M- and a janissary ; the former insisting on his driving the baggage-horses before us, and not allowing them to stop behind, sometimes for half an hour. The janissary grew so very angry, that he drew his sabre and vented his rage on a poor mule that carried our bedding, by cutting him in a most shocking and savage manner. The poor animal, who was then standing on the brink of the river, at least twenty feet from the surface of the water, was forced into it, and swam upwards of a mile down a most rapid stream, and would undoubtedly have perished had not Pauolo immediately undressed himself and mounted another mule, on which he swam to its relief.

The quarrel began again, which I feared would have ended very unpleasantly. The janissary drew his sabre, and had not Mr. M- levelled his gun at him he would most likely have been dreadfully wounded. I now interfered, in hopes of making peace, as the janissary insisted on leaving us and returning to Smyrna. I was much alarmed at this, apprehending that his desire of revenge Macestus.might induce him to get assistance from the peasants, or join any party in order to plunder, and perhaps murder us. I therefore used every means I could devise to pacify the scoundrel, but to no purpose ; till at last Pauolo putting his arms round his neck kissed him several times in the most affectionate manner, which appeased him a little. He' kneeled down, put his fingers in his mouth and made the most ridiculous grimaces, using at the same tirne the most impertinent language, such as " Christian Dog," "Void of faith," " Unbeliever, etc." Thus his rage exhausted itself, and Pauolo renewing his embraces, he at last consented to accompany us.

These altercations took up much of our time, so that we did not reach Maccatitch till ten in the evening, where we met our usual difficulties in procuring a lodging and supper. These are weighty concerns to a traveller, though they may appear uninteresting to my readers, to whom I wish to apologise for my tedious repetitions. But as Homer made his heroes eat and drink, and even Voltaire, in his poems, took care not to starve them, so I trust I may be forgiven, if in my narrative, which is truth itself, I record, perhaps too frequently, occurrences so unimportant as my breakfast, dinner and supper.

December the 12th.

We had now only six hours' ride from this place of misery to the village of Scala,³³ where we were to take boat for Constantinople. Throughout all Turkey the places where goods are embarked or disembarked are called Scala, which literally signifies a ladder ; and in many places we find not only the quay or spot of disembarkation, but the entire village to which it appertains, to go by this common appellation. This prospect of so speedy a termination to our troubles, raised our spirits, and we set off very early and travelled along the banks of the Maccatitch for some miles. The country was on both sides very beautiful and watered with many rivulets.

At half-past four we arrived at this little seaport, which contains only a few houses ; but its situation is extremely pleasant. On our arrival we did all in our power to prevail on some of the owners of the boats to set sail with us ; but as the wind was not directly fair, all our entreaties and every inducement we held out were in vain. They have no idea of going to sea but with a very fair wind. This disappointment, as it occasioned a delay of no less than forty-eight hours, almost exhausted our patience. We amused ourselves with killing some ducks with which the river was covered. We crossed a rivulet to a little island formed by this stream, and two small lakes to the south of the river Maccatitch where we had most excellent sport, having killed many wild ducks, teal, snipes and three hares of an uncommonly large size.

At last the weather setting fair, our nokidah, or pilot, ventured to get under weigh, and after a very short navigation we landed at Top-Hanna ³⁴ Scala, on the fourteenth of December at four in the evening.

Footnotes

1 It was from this island probably that the first Lord Cloncurry's country seat at Blackrock, co. Dublin, had its name. Thos. Whaley, as already mentioned in the Preface, married Lord Cloncurry's daughter.
2 Mazzara.
3 ? Naxos.
4 Whaley here seems to have confounded the island of Negropont, or Eubcea, with the mainland.
5 ? Kara--Burnu.
6 ? Oglak.
7 Ralph Sneyd, then a midshipman of this ship.
8 Lee, as the writer mentions later. See p. 157.
9 Mrs. Maltass, a cousin of Mr. Lee.-Moore's journal.
10 Mrs. Maltass.
11 Lee, as the writer mentions later. See p. 157
12 Mr. Anthony Hayes. See p. 75.
13 I.e., faro.
14 Anthony Hayes.
15 Le Conte de Hauchpied.-Moore's journal.
16 Capt. Neil, as mentioned in Moore's Journal.
17 Lee.
18 Wilson.
19 Captain Moore.
20 Maltass.
21 Lee.
22 Bournabat.
23 Probably Yakakiot, a mountain N. of Bay of Smyrna.
24 It is clear that Whaley has here confounded the two towns ofagnesia. The route he travelled obviously lay through Magnesia ad Sipylum, then an important commercial centre, situate about forty miles N.E. of Smyrna. The other city of the same name, Magnesia ad Maeandrum, had at the time been a ruin for many centuries. It stood some sixty miles S. by E. of Smyrna. The river he saw must have been the Hermus, which was the scene of the defeat of Antiochus mentioned at p. 93, and not the Mæander, which is, roughly, about one hundred miles away.
25 Abdul Harnet. Moore's journal.
26 See p. 89, n
27 The Battle of Magnesia took place 190 B.C.
28 He probably means Akhissar.
29 Gelembeh
30 Moore.
31See Preface.
32 Macestus
33 At the mouth of the Maccalitch."-Moore's journal.
34 Top-Khaneh, or Gun House.