[from Brown's Popular Guide, c.1887]

DOUGLAS.

DOUGLAS, the modern capital of the Island, the seat of its Government, and the centre of its life and energy, though it possesses no public buildings, civil or ecclesiastical, of any great pretentions to architectural distinction, has yet many interesting features, and deserves more than a mere passing notice. Commencing our rambles round and about the town, at its central point, the Market Place, we find ourselves in the midst of a scene much more characteristic of one of the quaint,old-fashioned Norman seaports, with which Douglas a century ago had such a close connection, than of an ordinary English watering-place. The Market Place is not extensive - not nearly large enough, in fact, for the growing requirements of the town; and there are several plans before the Town Board for erecting a large covered market more agreeable to modern ideas in its arrangements and surroundings. One side of the small open area of the Market Place is formed by Saint Matthew's Chapel, a small plain edifice, founded by Bishop Wilson in 1708, and the oldest church in Douglas. On the opposite side is the harbour. A third side is taken up by a large and formerly much patronized hotel - the British - the basement of which is occupied by a number of large respectable shops ; and the fourth side is filled with another of the hotels of Old Douglas - the Douglas - which has seen some strange changes in its day. Erected by a noted smuggler, it passed, on the decline of the Manx contraband trade, into the possession of the Duke of Athol, the Lord of Man, and was used by him as his town palace. Later, it was used as the local Custom House ; and later still, it became what it is now, a hotel. The cellars belonging to these old houses are among the most interesting relics of the old smuggling times, extending for a great distance underground in all directions.

Douglas Market is well supplied all the year round with butter, eggs, fowls, and vegetables, brought into the town from all the surrounding districts, and with abundance of fresh fish by the fishermen of the port ; but in the summer season it becomes a scene of the wildest bustle and excite- ment - the neatly-dressed wives and daughters.of the Manx farmers, who have many of them travelled from the remotest corners of the Island with their wares in their husbands' or fathers' spring carts, occupying one part of the confined space ; the butchers' stalls, some belonging to town trades- men and others to countrymen, take up its centre; a long line of fishmongers' stands, plentifully supplied with all kinds of native fish, succeeded by a second row of country carts, laden with agricultural produce - potatoes, cabbages, peas, carrots, turnips, down to plants, ferns, and flowers, fringe the edge of the quay ; and working their way in and out among all this motley assemblage are crowds of Douglas house-wives making their daily purchases for the multiplied wants of their families and boarders, and summer visitors enjoying the fun of the scene, and making their own purchases.

Having spent what time he thinks proper in the neighbourhood of the market, the visitor may next pursue one of five principal routes which will enable him to see the town in all its phases, and as the harbours and piers generally command the first notice from strangers, we shall make their examination the

FIRST ROUTE.

Making our way through the noisy crowd along the line of the Quay, we turn up the first opening to our left - an opening bearing the poetic name of " The Fairy Ground." This neighbourhood however, like that other portion of Old Douglas lying to the west of the Market Place, has no other claim but its name to be regarded as "the spot where the elf race inhabit, where brightly their tiny lamps burn as of yore." It leads into a bewildering labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys, another relic of the smuggling times. Proceeding along the Quay, with Douglas Inner Harbour on our right, one of the finest tidal harbours in the British Isles and capable of holding a considerable number of vessels of various sizes, at "The Double Corner," facing the Royal Hotel, looking up the harbour, we have in the season a scene of life and activity which cannot fail to interest and amuse even the most indifferent. Still passing onward, we reach the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company's office and warehouse. Here notices are daily posted of the sailing of steamers for the English, Scotch, and Irish ports, and for excursions to various parts. Beyond this is the Red Pier, and at its base stands the Imperial Hotel, erected in 1861, by S. Harris, Esq., High-Bailiff of Douglas. Along the wall which runs on the north side of this pier a seat has been constructed, and forms a convenient resting place for the weary tourist. The extreme end of the pier, however, the head on which the old lighthouse stands, is a more favourite resort, as from this point a good view is obtained of all the vessels entering or passing out of the harbour, and also of the dwellings on the opposite side. Across the water we may notice the Fort Anne Hotel facing us, and pleasantly situated on a cliff overlooking the town and bay, and a wide expanse of country to the northward. This structure was originally built by an Irish gentleman, and is commonly supposed to stand on soil brought from England, Ireland, and Scotland, but we cannot vouch for the truth of that statement. Afterwards the building became the residence of Sir William Hillary, by whose lady the Tower in the bay was raised. To the left of the hotel we see the castellated mansion known as Fort Anne Tower, and adjoining it is Fort William, a terrace of neat and lofty dwellings, standing high above the harbour and commanding a view of the quays and shipping, as well as of the distant hills. On the right of Fort Anne, again, stands Ravenscliffe, a Gothic residence, almost hidden by trees, and more seaward the embattled Elizabethan mansion of Harold Tower, towhich peculiar interest is attached from the fact that in it laboured Martin, the celebrated painter of the " Plains of Heaven," and other great works, described by Bulwer "as the greatest, the most lofty, the most permanent, the most original genius of his age." The Red Pier was erected in place of an older structure, at the expense of Government, and was completed in the year 1800. The first stone of this structure was laid on the 24th of July, 1793, by John, Duke of Athol. The length of the pier is 520 feet, and its width 40 feet. Its cost was £22,000. As an instance of the value of money in Man at that date we may mention that the workmen on the pier were paid at the rate of one penny per day ; but they had the option of taking a "barrel" of wheat in lieu of the penny. Flour was then sold at a shilling per stone of fourteen pounds. A ferry-boat plies from the steps at the pier-head to the breakwater below Fort Anne, and there are also ferries at other points of the harbour, by means of which a considerable saving of time is effected at a small cost.

To the left other and loftier hills raise their heads in majestic grandeur, as it were "Holding out their hands To draw you from the vile plains up to them."

And these in rotation are Greeba, Colden (in front of it the lesser hill of Creg Whuallian); then the second round eminence, Carraghan; then the pointed and conspicuous Bien-y-Phot ; then Slieu Meayl and Mollagh Ouyr, scarcely distinguishable from each other ; and peeping, as it were, behind them we may just discern the Manx monarch of mountains, Snaefell, the view from which extends over 3,000 square miles. Eastward of Snaefell another pale blue eminence, the summit of North Barrule, is seen in the far distance ; and then the eye comes nearer home, and alights on Banks Howe, forming the northern bound of Douglas Bay, and dipping down in jagged rocks and steep precipices into the sea.

Perhaps the well-laden herring or mackerel boats may be crowding into the harbour with well-earned cargoes of fish, or some larger vessel from the distant shores of Norway, or the still further Canadian lands, may be coming into port with timber; or again, though generally less interesting, coasting colliers may arrive from Scotland, Whitehaven, or Runcorn. Further up the harbour is generally laid one of the Isle of Man Company's steamers, and another is often near at hand ; whilst at the bottom of the steps close to us, several good substantial yachts are waiting for passengers for a fishing excursion, or for pleasant sails to Port Soderick, Castletown, Port St. Mary, or Port Erin. A two hours' sail in one of the fishing yachts, for which a shilling or so is charged, will not only be a pleasure to the visitor, but he may also return with a good supply of fish as interest upon his money. A shilling is also generally the fare to Port Soderick and back, and for a very moderate sum the return Sourney to Port Erin, a good half-day's sail, can be obtained.

To those who prefer to shun "the dangers of the sea" and risk themselves on an overland journey, there are cars innumerable waiting for hire between the Royal Hotel and the Market Place, and at other places; and parties, which the solitary visitor may readily join will be found collecting together for Peel, Castletown, Glen Helen, Laxey, &c. ; or for the longer journeys to Port Erin, Kirk Michael, or Ramsey.

Turning back to the Royal Hotel corner and passing down Parade Street, we turn to the right at the Barrow Steam Packet Office, we find ourselves at the foot of the Victoria Pier, a magnificent structure composed of huge concrete blocks built upon a ridge of rocks, stretching eastward towards towards the Conister Rock, on which formerly stood a very ancient fort known as The Picts Tower. This fine pier, which is 1,100 feet long, was constructed at a cost of about £50,000, and was opened with great formality on the 1st July, 1872. It is already much too small tor its requirements, and at the present moment arrangements are being made to lengthen it 300 feet at a further cost of about £50,000. The view from the extremity of this pier is very striking. Before us, in the bay itself, is the small rocky islet of Conister or St. Mary's Isle, surmounted by the picturesque Tower of Refuge (see page 16). To the right is the fair expanse of the Outer Harbour crowded with shipping of all kinds, from the huge steamers which have each brought their hundreds of visitors from Liverpool, and Fleetwood, and Barrow, to the graceful pleasure yachts just returned from their day's cruize, and beyond it are the rocky heights of Douglas Head, on the one hand stretching out into the bright summer sea, and on the other running inland until the ridge is lost among the mountains of the interior, among which the pointed peak of South Barrule rears itself aloft at a distance of ten or twelve miles. At the base of Douglas Head is the Battery Pier Breakwater, with the favourite bathing place of Port Skillion just behind it ; and following the line of the hill westward, the eye passes a succession of villa residences embosomed in dark woods, and further up the harbour long terraces of handsome houses. Seaward across the bright waters we may frequently in clear weather see distinctly the blue cloud- like outlines of the Cumbrian Mountains - a fitting sequel to the glorious prospect of land and sea at which we have been gazing.

SECOND ROUTE.

In this route we also make the Market-place our starting point. Passing beneath the clock of the chapel we enter Duke-street. The first openings we arrive at are Duke's-lane, a narrow street on our right hand, and on our left Lord-street, both leading to the lower quarters of Douglas. The next street along Duke-street is King-street, which is the nearest way to the General Post-office and higher parts of Douglas. Standing at the corner of King-street, and casting his eyes. along the shop fronts higher up Duke-street, the visitor will at once perceive that Douglas is by no means behind the times in point of architecture. Much as the narrow streets and crowded thoroughfares of Douglas have been reviled, the observer here will see that the facades of the buildings on the eastern side of Duke-street are superior to some of the best streets in many large English towns, and quite equal to some of the principal ones in Liverpool and Manchester. The cramped and confined streets of the old town of Douglas are certaintly a disadvantage to it, but this is. remedied by the construction of Victoria-street, a fine broad thoroughfare, extending from Victoria Pier to the upper part of the town. Continuing our route along Duke-street, we reach Victoria-street, with its splendid shops and hotels which, in their architectural proportions and their display of costly and fashionable wares, are equal to those of any town in England. In Lower Victoria-street is the immense block of buildings containing the Grand Theatre, one of the best appointed and best managed theatres in the kingdom : the Grand Music Hall, the Grand Hotel, and the Victoria Baths ; and, on the opposite side of the street, is the Villiers Hotel, the largest hotel in the Island, with its enormous accommodation, billiard rooms, restaurants, &c. A little further on in Duke-street is Wellington-street, on the left. Beyond Wellington-street a few yards, and on the same side of Duke-street, we see "Doyle's" Bazaar, a building originally erected for a public market, but as the rents were considered too high and the building too small, the frequenters of the Old Market decided to remain in their customary locality, and stand the buffetings of the wind and the beatings of the tempest, rather than pay for a roof to cover them. A little further on we arrive at Drumgold-street, and a convenient opening on the right leads to the Loch Parade.

Here Duke-street ends and Strand-street begins. This is one of the most improving thoroughfares in Douglas. Mr Webb's "Public Lounge and Louvre" is a remarkably fine structure. On or close to the Loch Parade are the Peveril, the Villiers, the Granville, the Falcon, the Regent, the Athol, the Grand, the Sun, and the Belvidere Hotels, buildings which would be an ornament to any town. The Loch Parade, which cost about £30,000, is formed on land reclaimed from the shore. Victoria-street runs through the heart of the town, and its construction involved the clearing away of a number of old tumble-down tenements. Pursuing our route along Strand-street, we come to Well-road on the left, in which is a neat semi-Corinthian Methodist Chapel, and shortly afterwards Strand-street terminates in Castle-street ; but, continuing in our course, we reach the Old Promenade and the Lifeboat House, the latter containing a valuable boat presented by the Sunday scholars of Manchester and Salford. A second boat, with all the latest improvements, was also presented to Douglas in 1874, by Mrs Turner-Turner, of Hampshire, as a memorial of her husband. It is anchored in the bay, near the Battery Pier.

On the Promenade we may rest a while, either under the sheltering roof or upon one of the numerous seats provided. At the end of the Promenade will be seen the Iron Pier (see page 17). When sufficiently rested, or tired with the extensive view and lively scenes before us, we may either return to our apartments or continue our stroll in a different direction. Turning up the "street" northward of St. Thomas' Church, we see before us Windsor-terrace, prominently and picturesquely placed upon the lofty and well-wooded eminence which rises abruptly in the rear of the Villa Marina Hotel and then as we turn the corner of the church we enter Finch-road, having St. Thomas's walk on our left hand and the steep precipitous hill and Windsor-road on our right, at the corner of which Mona-terrace stands equally elevated and prominent as its neighbour just named. The first building on our left after passing the church is the school building connected with St. Thomas's, and which, as the reader will observe from the date on the building, has been but recently erected. Opposite to this, on the rising ground, is the site of the Noble's Hospital. As we pass along Finch-road, we cannot fail to notice the many elegant houses in this vicinity ; on our left are a few respectable lodging-houses unfavourably situated, but, on the right hand, amends are made in the prominent terraces - notably Mona-terrace - extending the whole length of the street, and commanding a view over the lower town, and beyond that of the whole extent of the bay, Banks' Howe on the north side and Douglas Head on the south, and sometimes the far-distant hills of England with numerous vessels passing to and fro in the intervening space. A little beyond the top of Well-road, which we pass on our left hand, is Christian-road on the right, and opposite the former a small fountain may be seen, which was once of some repute for its supposed excellent qualities. Within memory all part of Douglas was unbuilt upon, and green fields and gardens occupied the site of the present road. The large square residence on the right is St. Barnabas' Church parsonage, and to the left is a row of fine boarding-houses known as Mount Havelock and Stanley Mount.

Passing on the top of Finch-road we have the handsome Presbyterian Church of St. Andrew's on our left hand and the Government Office and Buck's-road on our right : The Government Office is a neat erection, with a number of columns in front. At the opposite corner of Buck's-road stands St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel, with the clergy- house adjoining, which, together, form the most signs and, we think we may say, most picturesque ecclesiastical edifice in Douglas. Leaving Buck's-road for another journey, we turn to the left, down Prospect-hill, and and passing the Gaiety Theatre, a large and comfortable building and Victoria Hotel, we take the first street to our right which is Athol-street. Further on, on the left hand side of the street , we see the Post and Telegraph Office, and next door is the office of the Isle of Man Times. Opposite to this is the Free Library, just established. A little beyond The Times Office, and at the corner of Church-street, stands a large building of pretentious appearance, which is now called "The Court-house." It is not an unhandsome building, having in front large square Corinthian columns, surmounted by a portico; whilst the roof is protected by a low balustrad of short ornamental columns. This building was ambitiously erected by the Isle of Man District of the Independent Order of Oddfellows (M.U.) many years ago, at a time when the Manx district gained some notoriety on account of the Annual Moveable Committee of the Order holding their meeting in the Island; and, not only that, but the Manx brethren took a prominent part in the affairs of the Order, contributed to the Oddfellows' Chronicle, and so forth. By some unfortunate means the Oddfellows' Hall (as it was then called) passed from their hands. It was subsequently a theatre ; but when the new law courts were required for Douglas this building was selected as the most suitable for the purpose, and hence it obtained its latest name of the Court House. In the lower portion of the Court House is the office of the High-Bailiff (or chief magistrate) of the town.

Turning into Upper Church- street, on our right hand, we shortly arrive at St. George's, the second oldest church in Douglas.

On the north side of St. George's churchyard we find Hope-street on our left hand, and if we follow this to the end, we arrive in Peel-road. Again turning to the left we pass the end of Athol-street and Bigwell-street; then descending the rather steep hill we may notice the neat little Railway Station, a picturesque wooden structure in the Swiss style, on our right hand, and in front Bridge Road, which leads over the head of the harbour to the South Quay, and to Castletown. Instead of pursuing the direct road, however, we follow the North Quay and passing the Temperance Hotel and a number of private houses, soon find ourselves once more in the Market Place.

THIRD ROUTE.

Again we make the Market Place the starting point of our journey, and from thence follow Duke-street to the fourth turning on the left, Wellington-street, up which we proceed.

Two prominent signs at once attract our attention, the one pointing out the Theatre Royal, and the other the Wellington Hall. The former is not how used as a theatre, its larger and better appointed rivals having destroyed its chances of success. The latter is used as a concert hall and place of amusement. A little further on we arrive at the Primitive Methodist Chapel, and soon afterwards enter Great Nelson-street; then turning to the left we pass the end of Thomas-street in which is a neat Methodist Chapel on our left hand, and Prospect-hill, with Dumbell's Bank at the corner, on our right. Proceeding still further we reach the Adelphi Hotel, at the extremity of the street, and there turning to the right enter Athol-street between the Court House and the office of The Isle of Man Banking Company, Limited. Instead of going along Upper Church-street, as in the last route, we shall turn down Athol-street, and passing the Waterwork Company's office, besides numerous others on which the word "advocate" is remarkably common, we turn to the right, up St. George's-street, at the corner of which stands St. James's Hall, and beneath it (with the doors in Athol- street), the Institute and Reading Room. At the top of St. George's-street we find ourselves in Circular-road, with Stanley Hall on our left hand as we turn to the right, and pursue our journey past a neat chapel belonging to the Unitarian Body a little further on ; after passing which we enter Buck's-road, and direct our steps towards a Congregational Chapel which we see before us, and which is commonly known as Finch Hill Church. Next to this is the Isle of Man Skating Rink, covering a space of 3,500 square yards. The floor is made of "Val-de-Travers" asphalte. This rink is so arranged that both indoor and out-door skating can be enjoyed. The building is 170 feet long by 60 wide, and is fitted up with every convenience. In wet weather it can be entirely enclosed. As we journey along Buck's-road we cannot fail to notice three very neat and respectable streets of lodging-houses on our right hand, named respectively Albert-street, Mona-street, and Christian-road. Beyond the Skating Rink, the road is formed by a succession of blocks of large and handsome houses, built expressly for the reception of visitors during the season. Westward we pass Demesne-road and Kensington-road, in which latter is the School of Art ; and further on Rosemount, at the entrance to which is Livesey's Rosemount Hotel - a favourite resort. The space between Kensington-road and Rosemount is occupied by a fine chapel, which will accommodate about 1,000 persons, recently erected by the Wesleyan Methodists of Douglas, at a cost of £7,000. Opposite the new chapel, at the corner of Windsor-road, is the Rosemount Post Office. Proceeding onward, along Woodbourne-road, past Woodbourne-square and West-view, we find ourselves in the most beautiful and attractive suburb of the town, the houses being large and commodious, the roads broad and thickly shaded by large well-grown trees, and commanding a widely extended view of hill and dale, wood and meadow land, to the north, and a sight of the bay and the cliffs of Banks Howe a little more to the eastward ; whilst above and beyond the fields and hedgerows in the immediate vicinity the mountain chain rises aloft on the distant horizon and adds charm to the view. For the visitor who is fond of retirement and quietude, and yet wants a close proximity to town, we cannot recommend a better neighbourhood than this. On the left hand, as we descend the hill, we come to the Bowling-Green Hotel, belonging to Mr Handley. Here a number of out-door amusements are provided, comprising a fine bowling-green, an open air skating rink, archery, croquet, pleasure gardens, &c. There is also a large billiard-room, with two splendid tables. Opposité the Bowling-Green Hotel is the entrance to Derby-square, and lower down the steep descent we reach the short road known as Broadway, at the bottom of which are the Iron Pier and the Promenade, before visited, and from hence the rambler may return once more to his temporary home.

FOURTH ROUTE.

In this our fourth ramble through the streets and lanes of "Doolish," we shall introduce the visitor to a locality far diferent to that last visited. Perhaps we ought to have reversed their order, and probably he may not form a very good opinion of the sights he may see, but "The Popular Guide" would be incomplete if it presented only the bright side of the picture, and left the shadows untouched. This fourth route, we may inform the reader at starting, is through the slums of Douglas, and, therefore, the choice remains with himself whether he accompanies us or not; but, in denominating the poorer quarters of Douglas "slums," we by no means intend to insinuate that they are such hiding-places of depravity and crime, such dens of infamy and debauchery, as the slums of large English towns. No! On the contrary, we distinctly affirm that people more strictly honest, more upright in conversation and character, and further removed from vice and iniquity, from intemperance and immorality, then the poorer classes of Manxmen, it would be impossible to find in these dominions. Having said this much, the stranger need not be afraid of taking a tour with us, in his strongest boots, mind, through the old town of Douglas, not forgetting that "kidney boulders" are more plentiful than kidney potatoes, and ragged children more numerous than bakers' loaves.

Starting from the Market Place we pass down the North Quay into Fairy-ground; then along New Bond-street to Stowell's-lane, and come out in Fort-street opposite one of the bonded warehouses. Turning to our left, we pass the Isle of Man General Hospital, a very useful institution, which will shortly be removed into the handsome building now being erected for it through the munificence of H. B. Noble, Esq., and Mrs Noble, on the high ground behind St. Thomas's: Church. Nearly opposite the Hospital is St. Barnabas-square, a small enclosure in which one or two good houses and the Town Commissioners' offices are situated, and from which an entrance leads to St. Barnabas' Church, which has also doorways in Fort-street. Beyond the church we arrive at Cambrian-place, and boldly treading on the unfeeling boulders, which will now begin to torment us, we pass forward into Mucklesgate, at the corner of which stands a neat alms-house. In a niche in front of this building there stands the figure of an angel - at least, we suppose it is so intended - and this figure supports a scroll bearing the following inscription:- "Widows' House, founded by Mrs Squibbs, 1833; rebuilt by public subscription 1868."Let thy widows trust in me" - Jer. xlix, 2. Trustees: Hon. and Regt. Rev. Horatio Powys, Bishop of Sodor and Mann ; Rev. J. H. Gray, Incumbent of St. Barnabas ; Rev. Wm. Hawley, Chaplain of St. George's." At the end of Mucklesgate we enter Duke-lane, and then, turning to the right, cross Duke-street and pass into Lord-street, in which several common lodging-houses are situated. Passing along Lord-street we reach Fancy-street, a narrow thoroughfare leading to Victoria-street. At the end of Fancy-street we reach King-street, and, crossing Victoria-street, pass the Wesleyan Chapel in Thomas-street. From the extremity of Thomas-street we pass to the right down Great Nelson-street, and enter an Irish locality known as "Back Strand-street,"a name which denotes its position and extent, and, when we have passed along this seemingly long and really uncomfortable "Via Dolorosa," we may descend Well-road a little, then turn to the left through Wellington-square, coming out at the farther end in Frederick-street, whence we may once more reach the Promenade, and again freely breathe heaven's pure air.

FIFTH ROUTE.

Again starting from the Market Place, we either cross one of the halfpenny ferries to the South Quay, or otherwise, which is perhaps preferable, pass along the North Quay to the head of the harbour, when, turning to the left, we reach the bridge over the River Douglas, or more correctly "Dhooglas," from which we have an excellent view of the harbour in one direction, and the "tall ancestral trees" which adorn the Nunnery grounds and the banks of the river on the other. The River Douglas, we may here note, is formed about a mile higher up the valley by the union of two distinct streams, named the Dhoo, or Black River, and Glas. or Clear River, the former rising on the hills south-east of Douglas, and the latter in the romantic glens and lone morasses of the mountain chain. Crossing the bridge, the road to our right leads to the Nunnery, Port Soderic, Castletown, and the south and south-west of the Island generally: but, following the contrary one, we go along the South Quay, and after passing a few lodging-houses reach the works of Gelling's Foundry Company, Limited, and shortly afterwards the works of the Douglas Gas Company, at the corner of Fort Anne-road, and in the bed of an extensive quarry. By the quay lie moored, probably, a number of colliers from English and Scotch ports; coal, we may observe, being an expensive commodity in the Manx market, but an article so necessary that it forms an important import trade, for though it is said that the Isle abounds in coal, no one has yet succeeded in discovering it. As we walk along the South Quay we obtain the best view of the houses opposite, the Market Place, and St. Matthew's Chapel, the offices of the Steampacket Company, the Imperial Hotel, the Red Pier, and the numerous vessels and small boats in the harbour. Passing on we arrive at Fort Anne jetty, a structure erected many years ago for the protection of the harbour. Beyond this point the new Breakwater-works extend for some distance. From the Breakwater the rambler must return again by the way already traversed, or may hail a boat from the Fort Anne jetty, which will carry him across to either of the piers, or, if he prefer it, he may ascend Douglas Head, a favourite resort, commanding a magnificent view of Douglas Bay and the mountains in the distance ; or he may pass in to the beautiful grounds of Harold Tower, a recently established resort.

SIXTH ROUTE.

To reach the Tower of Refuge, we must hire a boat either at one of the piers or on the shore opposite the Promenade, according to convenience, and, by either rowing ourselves or engaging a boatman for the purpose, we may in a few moments be landed on the small rocky islet in Douglas Bay which bears the several names of " St. Mary's Isle" and "Conister," a natural island which, says a local chronicler, has been "apparently dropped in that particular spot to add a last charm to one of the loveliest of scenes," and in that opinion all must coincide. Those who have seen the tower when nought of the rocks has been visible above the surrounding waters can easily imagine the danger which this sunken reef presented to the mariner in former years, and can perhaps, in some slight degree, appreciate the kindness of the lady who first erected here a warning beacon for the seaman's guide, and a place of refuge for the wave-tossed, shipwrecked crew whom fate might cast upon St. Mary's little Isle.

Landed upon the island, then we enter the arched door-way, and ascend a flight of steps, which lead to a small terrace and to the lower apartments of the Tower. Ascending to the summit of the Tower, the view of the town and the surrounding country will amply repay us for our trouble.

Previous to 1832, the Conister Rock was wholly unprotected, and was a constant source of danger to vessels crossing Douglas Bay, but more especially at high tide, when it was completely submerged beneath the waves. In that year, however, Lady Hillary, wife of Sir William Hillary, perhaps: from having the rock almost constantly in view from her own windows at Fort Anne, hit upon the idea of erecting some signal by which the dangerous locality should be noted,, and finally, by her means, the Tower of Refuge was erected, a haven and rest for the shipwrecked mariner who might fortunately escape from the stormy billows and crawl hither. In the rough winter's weather the doors are never closed, and in the summer, when the tower is occupied by the lessee of the refreshment rooms, only so much is closed as will serve to protect the contents from the depredations of dishonest visitors.

As we stand on the tower and look around, the distant view is much the same as that described in speaking of the New Pier (Route I.), but we have here a better view of the margin of the bay and the amphitheatre-like town rising from it.

On our left hand we have Douglas Head rising from the sea to a height of 320 feet, with the lighthouse at its base, and the Head Hotel near the summit. Further on, to the right of Fort Anne, the Nunnery Howe rises to a considerable altitude, and from the point where this dips down to the westward we have a series of spires and towers rising above the roofs of Douglas. To the right of the town we see between the distant hills and the margin of the bay the precipitous cliffs which extend from Castle Mona to Burnt Mill Hill their summits being well adapted for such noble residences as the castellated building called Falcon Cliff commanding a view for miles upon miles of both land and sea. On the margin of the bay, southward, we have the New Pier, the Imperial Hotel, the Peveril Hotel, the Grand Hotel, the Villiers Hotel, and the Loch Parade. Above these the eye beholds the spire of St. Barnabas' Church on the left, and the dark square towers of St. Mary's higher in the scene, with the small white spire of the Unitarian Chapel in close proximity, as is also the variegated one of St. Andrew's Presbyterian Chapel. To the left of St. Mary's, the summit of the square, low tower of St. George's may be seen, and then to the right of this group of ecclesiastical beacons we see the red spire of Finch-hill Chapel and the squared pinnacled tower of the House of Industry - an institution which merits a share of pecuniary consideration from the tourist. Below this last, and at the end of a long series of bold and classically-designed terraces, which rise on either hand of Finch-road, the eye discerns the tower of St. Thomas's Church, and from this point naturally follows the margin of the bay, past Villa Marina, some years ago the Government House, on the first removal of the Governor's residence from Castletown, and alights on the Iron Pier, with its hundreds of occupants - for, in spite of the glorious scenery which surrounds Douglas on the land side, the Iron Pier is ever an attraction to all classes. From the Iron Pier, northward, the eye rambles over Clarence-terrace, the Esplanade, Derby-terrace, and the Castle Lawn, all on the margin of the bay, with Marathon and many noble-looking houses in that locality above them. Next we have the princely mansion and grounds of the Castle Mona Hotel, and, immediately beyond and above these, the elevated eyrie-like tower of Falcon Cliff Hotel and Pavilion, perched, as it seems, upon the very edge of a lofty ivy-clad precipice, at the base of which Mona Cliff lies in quiet seclusion, forming a striking contrast to its conspicuous neighbour above. A little beyond Mona Cliff may be seen an opening towards the foot of the cliff, and it will be observed that two tracks ascend from it to the summit of the cliff, but in opposite directions, and these we draw attention to that the visitor may remember the locality when necessary in one of the rural rambles. Still further on, the Queen's and Crescent Hotels may be seen, and around them a group of houses at the foot of Burnt Mill Hill, on the way to the village of Onchan, the spire of the parish church (St. Peter's) of which is visible on the' hill above and a little to the right. But carrying the eye along the edge of the bay, beyond Burnt Mill Hill, it discerns Derby Castle, an Elizabethan mansion of modern erection, now used as a pleasure resort, with its enormous dancing pavilion and its elegant iron landing pier, erected for the accommodation of visitors. At nights the Castle and grounds are lighted up by the electric light.

Besides these six distinct routes there are several others; but we need not particularly draw attention to them, as they lie principally in the old quarter of the town. Having seen all that we may in the thoroughfares of Douglas, we may, so long as the weather is fine and agreeable, wander forth into the highways and byeways, and continuing our rambles into the country, make ourselves acquainted with some of the charming scenes within easy distance of Douglas.

These, and the deepening glen. the valley green,
The silver stream, with sedgy tufts between ;
The mossy rock, the wood-encompassed leas,
The fern-clad island, and the nodding trees,
The lenzthing vista, and the present bloom,
The verdant pathway breathing waste perfum-
These are thy charms: the joys which these impart
Bind thee, blessed island! close around my heart !

DERBY CASTLE
PAVILION AND PLEASURE GROUNDS,

THE Management have great great pleasure in stating that very extensive Improvements have been made in this favourite Pleasure Resort, and that have erected a NEW GRAND PAVILION. In which are held during the Season GRAND AFTERNOON CONCERTS By the most talented Vocalists of the day.

The ORCHESTRA, twenty in number, is selected from the best Orchestras in the United Kingdom.

Conductor - Late of Charles Hallé's - Mr C. Reynolds

Trams run to and from the Castle every five minutes.