[from Brown's Popular Guide, 1877]

DOUGLAS.

Douglas, the modern capital of Man, is the heart and soul of the business life of this little Island, and as the Market Place is in the heart of Douglas, let us take it as the starting point from which we make our rambles through the town and its vicinity. We have at page 14 of " The Popular Guide" told the tourist how to get to the Island, and now that we have arrived there let us step ashore and give a glance around.

We commence our first ramble at the Market Place, and in a systematic manner perambulate this peculiar town. The Market place is not extensive. On one side stands Saint Matthew's Chapel, founded by Bishop Wilson, in 1708, a small plain edifice, which at one time it was sought to remove, so as to enlarge the Market Place: but we are heartily glad that good sense prevailed, and thst this monument of a pious and ever-to-be-remembered man will still remain the oldest church in Douglas. On the opposite side of squuare which forms the market, the harbour is conveniently situated. A third side of the square is occupied by respectable shops and the fourth is filled with a rather large inn, the Douglas Hotel, which has passed through some vicissitudes - if all be true that one hears concerning it. When the "memorial stone" was laid, tradition saith not, but be it when it might, the first founder was a noted smuggler, a man of means, who, perhaps, envied the palace of some neighbouring potentate, or had an ambition to be considered propietor of "the finest house in Douglas." Whether smuggling did not pay, or whether the smuggler himself was not finally smuggled off to Kirk Braddan churchyard, we are not told, but in that indefinite period, "the course of time," the house fell into the hands of the Duke of Athol, then Lord of Mann, and was in reality the palatial royal residence for a time, until other changes occurred, and the Island lost its independent king. The change with the house was equally great, as, from a royal house it dropped into an office of customs, and has since, as we have said, been metamorphosed into a hotel.

Douglas market is generally a busy place during the summer season, but more particularly on Saturday mornings, when the neatly dressed wives and daughters of the Manx farmers come from home- steads far and wide to display their tempting produce to the public eye and we are sure, not without gaining more than golden opinions, And who can begrudge the fair and buxom dames their well-earned profits, when it is considered that some of them come from such distant parishes as Jurby, Bride, Andreas, and Lezayre; places fifteen or twenty miles away in the far extremity of King Orry's territory, and the almost extreme limit of a Manxman's journey. These "guardians of the soil" stand in rows, "rank behind rank," and do a thriving business in butter, eggs, poultry, Manx cheese, and other dairy pro- duce. In front of them, and flanked by St. Matthew's Chapel, are a score or two of butchers' stalls, many of their proprietors, too, being residents in distant parts : German, Michael, and Malew parishes each sending their quota to the busy mart. Between these and the Quay are placed a goodly number of stalls, on which various kinds ef fruit and vegetable produce are displayed, and from this point a long line of country carts, well supplied with agricultural produce, extends towards the lower end of the Quay. Facing these, but with a sufficient space intervening for the general traffic, are the "bonny fish-wives" of Mona, with a goodly supply of ocean's gifts of the ordinary English kinds, and a few Manx natives, whose names sound strange to English ears, amongst them being callig and blocken, which are both plentiful. Another portion of the market ground behind St. Matthew's Church is devoted to miscellaneous articles, hosiery, pots, tinware, &c., but these scarcely come within the market proper.

Whilst speaking of the market we cannot do better than correct a mistaken idea prevalent in England as to the cheapness of food in Douglas. Many years ago we well remember that articles of consumption were much cheaper here than in most parts of England - beef and mutton, for instance, at 2d to 4d a pound - but since then the Island has adopted more than one English custom, and that not always the best. With the great influx of visitors - and they new number more than a hundred thousand each season - has come a greater demand for many articies which the Island is unable to produce in sufficient quantity, and this has naturally led to increased imports, and consequently increased prices. The improvements which have taken place in many parts of the Island, and more particularly in Douglas, - the lighting of the streets, construction of promenades, sewering arrangements, and the increased police force - have all tended to increase the prices; but even yet Douglas may compare favourably with most watering places Beef and mutton may generally be had (we are speaking of the visiting season) at about 10d per lb. ; potatoes, 8d per stone; game, when in season, at proportionate prices; cod-fish are seldom more than 3d per lb. ; soles, from 4d to 6d ; mackerel, from a halfpenny to sixpence each ; blocken, two dozen, or more, for a shilling ; and that greatest of blessings to the Manxman, his scadden (herrings) from a halfpenny each to any number for a shilling, according to the success of the fishings. Oysters, though not wholesome during the summer months, are so plentiful as to become a nuisance, and the quantity of these bivalves which daily disappear must be something astounding.

Having spent what time he thinks proper in the neighbourhood of the market, the visitor may next pursue one of five principal routes which will enable him to see the town in all its phases, and as the harbour and piers generally command the first notice from strangers, we shall make their examination the

FIRST ROUTE.

Following the course of the quay in the direction of the bay, we find the first opening on our left bears the poetic name of "Fairy Ground," but do not let the visitor imagine that this is the place of which our poets have sweetly sung. No! this is not "the spot where the elf-race inhabit, where brightly their tiny lamps burn as of yore," but it is the vestibule to a number of small streets and alleys, which in the early days of the town's history were more important than now. In the older parts of the town these crooked, narrow, and labyrinthine streets abound, and are a source of much confusion and annoyance to the lost traveller, who for a time forgets that the mysterious passages, of which he so loudly complains, were once (as it is said) very con- venient blessings for the smugglers, who, by these means could safely "dodge round the corner" from the vigilance of the revenue officer, Many are the stories which some of the older natives of " Doolish," can relate of these smuggling adventurers. These narrow and ill-paved streets, however, are now no ornament and not of much benefit to the town, and the sooner they are swept away the better, but whilst they do remain we can only advise our friends with tender-feet to avoid them, Leaving the Fairy Ground, then, and the streets beyond, to their inhabitants, the visitor proceeds along the quay until he arrives at the "double corner" facing the Royal Hotel, and here he may turn around and give a moment or two's attention to the harbour and shipping. We have heard people express their loud dis- appointment with Douglas harbour, some persons foolishly expecting to find a rival to Liverpool, or Hull, on the shores of Mona, but such expectations only point out their ignorance, Douglas harbour, however, will comfortably shelter over two hundred vessels of the native fleet, besides such "foreigners" as may be in harbour at the time, or chance to be driven in through stress of weather, and by the new harbour works the accommodation will be greatly increased. Beaides this, Douglas is considered to be one of the finest dry harbours in the British Isles. As we stand at this "double-corner" in the busy seasion, we have a scene of life and activity spread before us which cannot fail to interest even the most indifferent. Perhaps the well- laden herring or mackerel boats may be crowding into the harbour with well-earned cargoes of fish, or some larger vessel from the distant shores of Norway, or the still further Canadian lands, may be coming into port with timber ; or again, though generally less interesting, coasting colliers may arrive from Scotland, Whitehaven, or Runcorn, Further up the harbour is generally laid one of the Isle of Man Company's steamers, and another is often near at hand ; whilst at the bottom of the steps close to us, several good substantial yachts are waiting for passengers for a fishing excursion, or for pleasant sails to Port Soderick, Castletown, Port St. Mary, or Port Erin. A two hours' sail in one of the fishing yachts, for which a shilling or so is charged, will not only be a pleasure to the visitor, but he may also return with a good supply of fish as interest upon his money. A shilling is also generally the fare to Port Soderick and back, and for a very moderate sum the return journey to Port Erin, a good half- day's sail, can be obtained.

To those who prefer to shun "the dangers of the sea" and risk themselves on an overland journey, there are cars innumerable waiting for hire between the Royal Hotel and the Market Place, and at other places, and parties, which the solitary visitor may readily join, will be found collecting together for Peel, Castletown, Glen Helen, Laxey, &c. ; or for the longer journeys to Port Erin, Kirk Michael, or Ramsey.

Turning the double-corner we come to the Isle of Man Steam-packet Company's office and warehouse. A large iron and glass shed extends over the quay at this point, and serves as a protection to the cargo landed from the steamers, Here notices are daily posted as to the sailing of steamers for the English ports, and for excursions round the Island, or elsewhere. Adjoining the Packet Office is the Old Pier Inn, and immediately contiguous to this the Imperial Hotel, erected in 1861, by S. Harris, Esq., High-Bailiff of Douglas, on the site where formerly stood the Court House. The adjoining building, and we are now standing on what is called the Red Quay, is a small room which once had terrors for certain visitors to Mona's favoured isle, but has now lost much of its former importance. We allude to the Customs' Searching Office, and here it was at one time the practice to submit passengers' luggage to an official inspection before leaving the Island, but fortunately this disagreeable practice has been discontinued, and "searchings," like passports, are wholly abolished. What a grievous matter it used to be for the excursionist who came over here with great intentions of returning well laden with free articles, to find himself searched, and his "goods" seized before he had even launched his venture on the main! We picture to ourselves some buxom old dame of rubicund complexion and rotund figure as she waddles, duck-like, beneath the shed at the Packet Office, and by her own exertions, and the aid afforded from behind, squeezed her bulky carcase between the posts and the pier, and with spirits elate steps one foot boldly on the gangway with much self-gratulation that she has cheated the customs another time, and will return to "dear old England" with luxuries that will last until the next succeeding year. Alas, for her hopes! Alas, for her success! Suddenly a revenue officer lays his hand gently on that flaming shawl, and the woman reels backward, aghast with consternation and dismay at the man's invitation to her to "walk into his parlour." Oh! what a revelation is there made! Tea, coffee, tobacco, and snuff have each added their bulk to fill the dame's capacious gown! Mace, nutmegs, pepper, and cloves fill the deep exhaustless pockets of the dame's attire ! A pack of cards reposes snug within that fragrant 'kerchief! But all are confiscated ; all alike are seized ; and only with her pint of cordial the dame retires and steps once more aboard the homeward-bound vessel! In the same manner with men - hats, pockets, boots, were alike well padded with smuggled goods - but now, since the near equalization of duties, all this is done away with.

Along the wall which runs on the north side of this pier a seat has been constructed, and forms a convenient resting place for the weary tourist. The extreme end of the pier, however, the head on which the old lighthouse stands, is a more favourite resort, as from this point a good view is obtained of all the vessels entering or passing out of the harbour, and also of the dwellings on the opposite side. Across the water we may notice the Fort Anne Hotel facing us, and pleasantly situated on a cliff overlooking the town and bay, anda wide expanse of country to the northward. This structure was origin- ally built by an Irish gentleman, and is commonly supposed to stand on soil brought from England, Ireland, and Scotland, but we cannot vouch for the truth of that statement. Afterwards the building became the residence of Sir William Hillary, by whose lady the Tower in the bay was raised. To the left of the hotel we see the castelated mansion known as Fort Anne Tower, and adjoining it is Fort William, a terrace of neat and lofty dwellings, standing high above the harbour and commanding a view of the quays and shipping, as well as of the distant hills, On the right of Fort Anne, again, stands Ravenscliffe, a Gothic residence almost hidden by trees, and more seaward the embattled Elizabethan mansion of Harold Tower, to which peculiar interest is attached from the fact that in it laboured Martin, the celebrated painter of the "Plains of Heaven," and other great works, described by Bulwer "as the greatest, the most lofty, the most permanent, the most original genius of his age." The Red Pier was erected in place of an older structure, at the expense of Government, and was completed in the year 1800. The first stone of this structure was laid on the 24th of July, 1793, by John, Duke of Athol. The length of the pier is 520 feet, and its width 40 feet. Its cost was £22,000, As an instance of the value of money in Man at that date we may mention that the workmen on the pier were paid at the rate of one penny per day; but they had the option of taking a "barrel" of wheat in leu of the penny. Flour was then sold at a shilling per stone of fourteen pounds. A ferry-boat plies from the steps at the pier-head to the breakwater below Fort Anne, and there are also ferries at other points of the harbour, by means of which a considerable saving of time is effected at a small cost.

A new and short promenade will, it is hoped, be erected to join the Red Pier to the new one, but until such time as that is constructed we must either take a boat across the new harbour or return to the Royal Hotel, then turning to the right down Parade-street and passing Queen's Place on the right hand, and New Bond-street on the left, we turn to the right again and find ourselves at the foot of the New Landing Pier, a magnificent structure composed of huge concrete blocks, and occupying a promontory formerly known by the name of Pollock Rocks. On these rocks there some years ago stood a very ancient fort (from which Fort-street derives its name), of what date is uncertain, but some antiquarians have referred its construction to the time of the Roman, perhaps because Mann does not possess many relics of that people, but from engravings we have seen we should imagine the fort to have been erected long subsequent to the date assigned to it, An old historian states that "the great Caratack, brother of Boadicea, queen of Britain, concealed here her nephew from the fury of the Romans, who were in pursuit of him, after having vanquished the queen and slain all her other children. There is certainly a very strong secret apartment underground in it, having no ingress or egress but by a hole covered by a large stone, and still called the great man's chamber."

This new landing place is called "The Queen Victoria Pier," after her Majesty. It cost about £48,000, and is about 1100 feet long. It was opened with considerable formality on the Ist of July, 1872. Before its erection passengers were generally landed in small boats, but happily that nuisance has been abolished. Passing along the new pier we have the Red Quay and the heights beyond on our right hand ; and on the left the remains of the Pollock Rocks, the bay, and the long crescentic shore, bounded by the Loch Parade. In the evenings the Victoria Pier is uncomfortably crowded by cars, porters, touters, and visitors who come down to meet the steamers, and a lively scene is the certain consequence, Here are the inevitable "niggers," who never saw "Afric's sunny fountains roll down their golden sand," nor yet "picked cotton" in the fields of South Carolina; here is the true-born Irishman from the neighbourhood of Angel Meadow, in Manchester, or the not less aristocratic Sawney-Pope- street of Liverpool ; here too are wandering gleemen and other "pro- fessionals," "singing men and singing women," "minstrel boys," who would be much better with " Mavor's Spelling Book" or " Lindley Murray " in their hands, than thrumming on the banjo, or scraping the catgut for fools' pence. It is a wonder that such strolling idlers, not to call them vagabonds, as the English Act of Parliament does, are tolerated and encouraged by so many of our visitors. Whilst we are waiting the coming boat an ample opportunity is offered us of learning public opinion of all things connected with Mona. A group here discuss loudly, and without any dread of publicity, the merits and demerits of their respective lodgings; another group exchanges notes of where they have been, and what seen ; a few persons here chat sensibly on the subject of sailing or fishing ; a few more here enter into converse on the beauties of the scene before them, and dilate enthusiastically on the superiority of Manx scenery over that surrounding Southport, Blackpool, and other noted watering places; whilst as the rival boats from Barrow and Liverpool are seen approaching, the general talk is turned into another channel, and the respective merits of the Manx and the English companies are freely discussed, a noted peculiarity being that each person seems to think best of the line by which he himself has travelled, and sometimes even extends his partiality to the very boat which has borne him to our shores,

When the hundreds of passengers who have arrived by the boat have disembarked, and the cars have rolled away, and the people gradually deserted the pier for other scenes, then the visitor may stand at the extremity of the pier and survey the surrounding scene with comfort. In the bay he will observe the small rocky island which bears the name of Conister, and St. Mary's Isle, surmounted by a picturesque tower, of which we shall have more to say presently, On the other hand he will have Douglas Head, with its lighthouse, stretching out inte the sea, and forming the southern wall and shield of Douglas Bay. At its base is the new breakwater now in progress, which may be reached by boat or by following the south quay, and on the hill above is the Douglas Head Hotel. Carrying the eye forward to the left until it rests en the spires which stand cut against : the horizon, the pointed eminence of South Barrule may be seen rearing itself aloft some miles away in the background, Still further to the left other and loftier hills raise their heads in majestic grandeur, as it were

"Holding out their hands
To draw you from the vile plains up to them,"

And these in rotation are Greeba, Colden (in front of it the lesser hill of Creg Whuallian) ; then the second round eminence, Carraghan ; then the pointed and conspicuous Bien-y-Phot; then Slieu Meayl and Mollagh Ouyr, scarcely distinguishable from each other ; and peeping, as it were, behind them we may just discern the Manx monarch of mountains, Snaefell, the view from which extends over 3,000 square miles, Hastward of Snaefell another pale blue eminence, the summit of North Barrule, is seen in the far distance; and then the eye comes nearer home, and alights on Banks's Howe, forming the northern bound of Douglas Bay, and dipping down in jagged rocks and steep precipices into the sea. Carrying our eyes seaward we may sometimes see more or less distinctly the outline of the Cumber- land and North Lancashire hills, but this is generally a significant token of coming rain, and we advise the visitor to accept the warning and postpone any long journey which he may meditate at the time. having tarried long enough on the pier return on the right hand side and cast a look down at the oyster beds, which lie in the rocks by, the side of the pier, and then proceed as far as the Peveril Hotel from which point we may either proceed along the new Loch Parade, or leave the hotel on the right and proceed to the corner of Parade and Fort-streets, then following the latter pass into Duke-street, one of the principal business thoroughfares of the town, which we now proceed to describe.

SECOND ROUTE.

In this route we also make the Market-place our starting point. Passing beneath the clock of the chapel we enter Duke-street. The first openings we arrive at are Duke's-lane, a narrow street on our right hand, and on our left Lord-street, a thoroughfare leading to the lower quarters of Douglas. The next street along Duke-street is King-street, at the corner of which a board informs us that this is the nearest way to the General Post Office and higher parts of Douglas, but we may inform the stranger that there is also a post- office a little further up Duke-street, on the opposite side. Standing at the corner of King-street, and casting his eyes along the shop fronts higher up Duke-street, the visitor will at once perceive that Douglas is by no means behind the times in point of architecture. Much as the narrow streets and crowded thoroughfares of Douglas have been reviled, the observer here will see that the facades of the buildings on the eastern side of Duke-street are superior to some of the best streets in many large English towns, and quite equal to some of the principal ones in Liverpool and Manchester. The cramped and confined streets of the old town of Douglas are certainly a disadvantage to it, but this is remedied by the construction of Victoria- street, a fine broad thoroughfare, extending from Victoria Pier to the upper part of the town, Continuing our route along Duke-street we notice Davidson's public clock, the only illuminated one in the street. A little beyond Davidson's is Victoria-street, and around the corner to the right are the Douglas Aquarium and Public Baths; and a little further on in Duke-street is Wellington- street on the left. Beyond Wellington-street a few yards, and on the same side of Duke-street, we see Doyle's Bazaar, a building originally erected for a public market, but as the rents were considered too high and the building too small, the frequenters of the old market decided to remain in their customary locality, and stand the buffetings of the wind and the beatings of the tempest, rather than pay for a roof to cover them. A little further on we arrive at Drumgold-street, and a convenient opening on the right leads to the Loch Parade.

Here Duke-street ends and Strand-street begins. As we pass along Strand-street we soon notice that many of the buildings are of an inferior design to those we have seen in Duke-street, though the newer structures are not unsightly, Mr Webb's "Public Lounge," a little further on, is an elegant structure, and we consider that attempts to beautify the town in such manner are very praiseworthy, and merit encouragement, Very praiseworthy efforts to beautify the town may be seen in Victoria-street and on the Loch Parade, both recent constructions. On or close to the Loch Parade are the Peveril and Villiers Hotels, the Douglas Aquarium and Baths, buildings which would be an ornament to any town ; while in Victoria-street are several magnificent shops. The Loch Parade, which cost about £30,000, is formed on land reclaimed from the shore. Victoria-street runs through the heart of the town, and its construction involved the clearing of a number of old tumble-down tenements, Pursuing our route along Strand-street, we come to Well-road on the left, in which is a neat semi-Corinthian Methodist Chapel, and shortly afterwards Strand-street terminates in Castle-street, in which are situated the Baths - a small building which we are surprised has existed so long, but which has now a more gorgeous successor on the Loch Parade, Looking up the opening opposite the Baths, St. Thomas's-walk, we may see Windsor-road and St. Thomas's Church ; but continuing in our course we reach the Old Promenade and the Lifeboat House, the latter containing a valuable boat presented by the Sunday scholars of Manchester and Salford. A second boat, with all the latest improve- ments, was also presented to Douglas in August, 1874, by Mrs Turner- Turner, of Hampshire, as a memorial of her husband.

As the stranger has accompanied us in this stroll along Duke- street, he will doubtlessly have been struck with the (to him) strange names which have met his eye on shop front or vehicle, and these illustrate the peculiarities of Manx nomenclature, as well as anything we could find. Let us take but three letters of the alphabet, and we shall find "crowds " of the following Manx names : -

Caine, Clucas, Corrin,
Christian, Coole, Corlett,
Clague, . Crellin, Creer,
Craine, Cubbon, Curphey,
Cowin, Corkish, Corkill,
Killey, Kewley, Kerruish,
Kneale, Kneen, Kissack,
Kaneen, Killip, Kermode,
Kelly, Kellett, Karran,
Quayle, Quane, Quine,
Quirk,Quaye, Qualtrough,
Quiggin, Quark, Quilleash,
Quilliam, Quaggan, Quarrie.

We know not that there is any kingdom but Mann in which such a number of K's and Q's prevail.

On the Promenade we may rest awhile, either under the sheltering roof or upon one of the numerous seats provided. At the end of the Promenade will be seen the Douglas Iron Pier. When sufficiently rested, or tired with the extensive view and lively scenes before us, we may either return to our apartments or continue our stroll in a different direction. Turning up the "street" northward of St. Thomas's Church we see before us Windsor-terrace, prominently and picturesquely placed upon the lofty and well-wooded eminence which rises abruptly in the rear of the Villa Marina Hotel, and then as we turn the corner of the church we enter Finch-road, having St. Thomas's-walk on our left hand and the Steep precipitous hill and Windsor-road on our right, at the corner of which Mona-terrace stands equally elevated and prominent as its neighbour just named, The first building on our left after passing the church is the school-building connected with St. Thomas's, and which, as the reader will observe upon a stone in the building, has been but recently erected. As we pass along Finch-road we cannot fail to notice the many elegant houses in this vicinity ; on our left are a few respectable lodging-houses unfavourably situated, but on the right hand amends are made in the prominent terraces (notably Mona-terrace) extending the whole length of the street, and commanding a view over the lower town, and beyond that of the whole extent of the bay, Banks' Howse on the north side and Douglas Head on the south, and semetimes the far distant hills of England, with numerous vessels passing to and fro in the intervening space. A little beyond the top of Well-road, which we pass on our left hand, is Christian- road on the right, and opposite the former a small fountain may be Seen which was once of some repute for its supposed excellent qualities. Within memory all this part of Douglas was unbuilt upon, and green fields and gardens occupied the site of the present road, The large square residence on the right is St. Barnabas' Church parsonage, and to the left is a row of fine boarding-houses, known as Mount Havelock and Stanley Mount. Passing on to the top of Finch-road we have the handsome Presbyterian Church of St. Andrew's on our left hand, and the Bank of Mona and Buck's-road on our right - the Bank being a very neat erection, with a number of columns in front. At the opposite corner of Buck's-road stands St. Mary's Roman Catholic Church, with the clergy-house adjoining, which, together form the most extensive and, we think we may say, most picturesque ecclesiastical edifice in Douglas. Leaving Buck's-road for another journey, we turn to the left, down Prospect-hill, and take the first street to our right, which is Athol-street, having what is now rather fancifully called St. George's Hall at the left-hand corner. A Roman Catholic chapel originally occupied this site, but as fresh adherents to that faith increased a larger and handsomer structure was required. A few yards further on, on the same side of the street, we see the Post and Telegraph Office, open at 7 a.m, in summer and 8 a.m. in winter, and next door is the office of The Isle of Man Times ; whilst opposite the the latter, the office of The Mona's Herald is situated. A little beyond The Isle of Man Times office, and at the corner of Church- street, stands a large building of pretentious appearance which is now called "The Court House," It is a not unhandsome building, having large square Corinthian columns surmounted by a portico in front, whilst the roof is protected by a low balustrade of short ornamental columns, This building was ambitiously erected by the Isle of Man District of the Independent Order of Oddfellows (M.U.) many years ago, at a time when the Manx district gained some notoriety on account of the Annual Moveable Committee of the Order holding their meeting in the Island, and not only that but the Manx brethren took a prominent part in the affairs of the Order, contributed to the Oddfellows Chronicle, and so forth. " Pride," however, "must have a fall! " - go says an old maxim - and the Manx brethren soon found they had advanced too far, for by some unfortunate means the Oddfellows' Hall (as it was then called) passed from their hands. A company was formed and took the building under their protection, and in their hands it remained for many years under the name of St. George's Hall; it was subsequently a theatre; but when the new law courts were required for Douglas this building was selected as the most suitable for the purpose, and hence it obtained its latest name of the Court House. In the lower portion of the Court House is the office of the High-Bailiff (or chief magis- trate) of the town, and the building adjoining is occupied as the Government Offices, &c. ; Turning into Upper Church-street, on our right hand, we shortly arrive at St. George's Market, an open Space devoted to the sale of cattle, &c., situated to the rearward of the Catholic Church and in front of the gates of St. George's, the latter being the second oldest church in Douglas. On the north side of St. George's churchyard we find Hope-street on our left hand, and follow this to the end, when we arrive in Peel-road, Again turning to the left we pass the end of Athol-street and Bigwell-street ; then descending the rather steep hill we may notice the neat little Railway Station, a picturesque wooden structure in the Swiss style, on our right hand, and in front Bridge Road, which leads over the head of the harbour. to the South Quay, and to Castletown. Instead of pursuing the direct road, however, we follow the North Quay, and passing the Temperance Hotel, and a number of private houses, soon find ourselves once more in the Market Place, perhaps not much grieved that so long a ramble through the streets is ended.

THIRD ROUTE.

Again we make the Market Place the starting point of our journey, and from thence follow Duke-street to the fourth turning on the left, Wellington-street, up which we proceed, Two prominent signs at once attract our attention, the one pointing out the Theatre Royal, the other the Wellington Hall. The latter is occasionally used as a con- cert hall, &c., but is at present fitted up as a skating rink, and as such is much patronised. A little further on we arrive at the Primitive Methodist Chapel, and soon afterwards enter Great Nelson-street ; then turning to the left we pass the end of Thomas-street, in which is a neat Methodist Chapel on our left hand, and Prospect Hill, with Dumbell's Bank at the corner, on our right. Proceeding still further we reach the Adelphi Hotel at the extremity of the street, and there turning to the right enter Athol-street between the Court House and the office of the "Isle of Man Banking Company, Limited." Instead of going along Upper Church-street, as in the last route, we shall now turn down Athol-street, and passing the Waterwork Company's office, besides numerous others on which the word " advocate" is remarkably common, we turn to the right, up St. George's-street, at the corner of which stands the School Board Office and St. James's Hall, and beneath them (with the door in Athol-street), the Institute and Reading Room. At the top of St. George's-street we find our- selves in Circular-road, with Stanley Hall on our left hand as we turn to the right, and pursue our journey past the small and neat Con- gregational Chapel a little further on; after passing which we enter Buck's-road, and direct our steps towards a second Congregational Chapel which we see before us, and which is commonly known as Finch Hill Chapel. Next to this is a large skating rink, constructed on the most approved principles. It is called "The Isle of Man Skating Rink," and covers a space of 3,500 square yards. The floor is composed of "Val de Travers" asphalte. It is so arranged that both indoor and outdoor skating can be enjoyed. The building is 170 feet long by 60 feet wide, and is fitted up with every convenience. In wet weather it can be entirely enclosed. Attached is a heautiful promenade, commanding a fine view of the sea, and of Douglas Head. As we journey along Buck's-road we cannot fail to notice three very neat and respectable streets of lodging-houses on our right hand, named respectively Albert-street, Mona-street, and Christian-road, and all these are very freely patronised in the season. A short distance beyond Christian-road, and on the other side of the way, stands a slate-covered house not remarkable for anything, but here dwelt Mr Buck, the builder of this the first house erected in Buck's-road, which was named from that circumstance, On the right hand, as we proceed still further, we pass the gates of the House of Industry, then the Windsor Nursery Gardens, and Rose- mount, beyond which we arrive in the well-wooded Woodbourne- square.

Turning to the right as we pass through the square we enter Derby-road, formerly known as Love-lane, which we may consider almost the limits of Douglas proper in this direction, the houses here commanding a widely extended view of hill and dale, wood and meadow land, to the north, and a sight of the bay and the cliffs of Banks's Howe a little more to the eastward ; whilst above and beyond the fields and hedgerows in the immediate vicinity the mountain chain rises aloft on the distant horizon and adds its charm to the view. For the visitor who is fond of retirement and quietude, and yet wants a close proximity to town, we cannot recommend a better neighbourhood than Derby-road. On the left hand, as we descend the hill, we come to the Bowling-Green Hotel, belonging to Mr Handley. Here a number of out door amusements are provided, comprising a fine bowling-green, an open-air skating-rink, archery, croquet, pleasure-gardens, &c. There is also a large billiard-room, with two splendid tables. Opposite to the Bowling-Green Hotel is the entrance to Derby-square, a portion of Douglas which forcibly reminds us of the West End squares of London, The houses here are noble-looking and excellent, the regularity of their style being an additional attraction, whilst the small garden attached to each, and the central square well laid out and thickly-planted with shrubs and trees, give a quiet and retired appearance to the whole, and an air of respectability which few other quarters in Douglas possess. On the south side of the square, two houses are devoted to the purposes of a convent, in which a few beneficent ladies reside, Having made a circuit of the square, we re-enter Derby-road, and passing downward find ourselves in the short road known as Broadway, at the bottom of which are the Iron Pier and the Promenade, before visited, and from whence the rambler may return once more to his temporary home,

FOURTH ROUTE.

In this, our fourth ramble through the streets and lanes of "Doolish," we shall introduce the visitor to a locality far different to that last visited; perhaps we ought to have reversed their order, and probably he may not fourm a very good opinion of the sights he may see, but "The Popular Guide" would be incomplete if it presented only the bright side of the picture and left the shadows untouched, his fourth route, we may inform the reader at starting, is through the slums of Douglas, and, therefore, the choice remains with himself whether he accompanies us or not; but in denominating the poorer quarters of Douglas "slums" we by no means intend to insinuate that they are such hiding-places of depravity and crime, such dens of infamy and debauchery, as the slums of large English towns. No! On the contrary, we distinctly affirm that people more strictly honest, more upright in conversation and character, more respectful to the classes above them, and further removed from vice and iniquity from intemperance and immorality, than the poorer classes of Manxmen it would be impossible to find in the whole of the British dominions. Having said thus much in all honesty, therefore, for our poorer neighbours, the stranger need not be afraid of taking a tour with us, in his strongest boots, mind, through the old town of Douglas, not forgetting that "kidney boulders" are more plentiful than kidney potatoes, and ragged children more numerous than bakers' loaves.

Starting from the Market-place we pass down the North-quay into Fairy-ground ; then along New Bond-street to Stowell's-lane, and come out in Fort-street opposite one of the bonded warehouses, Turning to our left we pass the Isle of Man General Hospital, a very useful institution, which, being sadly in need of funds and depending wholly on voluntary subscriptions for support, merits the consideration of those who, having come to our shores weak, decrepid, and invalid, return to their homes in renewed health and recruited spirits. Do not let such ferget the pecuniary wants of our public Hospital. Nearly opposite to the Hospital is St. Barnabas-square, a small enclosure in which one or two good houses and the Town Commis. sioners' offices are situated, and from which an entrance leads te St. Barnabas' Church, which has also doorways in Fort-street. Beyond the church we arrive at Cambrian-place, and boldly treading on the unfeeling boulders, which will now begin to torment us, we pass forward into Mucklesgate at the corner of which stands a neat almshouse. In a niche in front of this building there stands the figure of an angel - at least, we suppose it is so intended - and this figure supports a scroll bearing the following inscription : - " Widows' House, founded by Mrs Squire, 1833 ; rebuilt by public subscription 1868. 'Let thy widows trust in Me' - Jer. xlix. 2. Trustees: Hon. and Right. Rev. Horatio Powys, Bishop of Sodor and Mann; Rev. J. H. Gray, Incumbent of St. Barnabas ; Rev. Wm. Hawley, Chaplain of St. George's." At the end of Mucklesgate we enter Duke-lane, and. then turning to the right cross Duke-street and pass into Lord-street, in which several common lodging-houses are situate, and which, consequently, is the resort of the worst characters who visit the Island; though we must candidly confess that they behave themselves better here than they do on their own side of the water. Perhaps Castle Rushen is a wholesome terror to them, Passing along Lord-street we reach Fancy-street, a narrow thoroughfare leading to Victoria-street. At the end of Fancy-street we reach King-street, and pass by the doors of the Sun Office into Thomas-street, and crossing Victoria-street pass the Wesleyan Chapel. From the extremity of Thomas-street we pass to the right down Great Nelson-street and enter an Irish locality known as " Back Strand-street," a name which denotes its position and extent, and when we have passed along this seemingly long and really uncomfortable"Via Dolorosa" we may descend Well-road a little, then turn to the left through Wellington-square, coming out at the farther end in Frederick-street, whence we may once more reach the Promenade and again freely breathe heaven's pure air.

FIFTH ROUTE.

Again starting from the Market-place, we either cross one of the halfpenny ferries to the South Quay, or otherwise, which is perhaps preferable, pass along the North Quay to the head of the harbour, when, turning to the left, we reach the bridge over the River Douglas, or more correctly "Dhooglas," from which we have an excellent view of the harbour in one direction, and the "tall ancestral trees" which adorn the Nunnery grounds and the banks of the river on the other. The River Douglas, we may here note, is formed about a mile higher up the valley by the union of two distinct streams, named the Dhoo or Black River, and the Glas, or Clear River, the former rising on the hills south-east of Douglas, and the latter in the romantic glens and lone morasses of the mountain chain. Crossing the bridge one road to our right leads to the Nunnery, Port Soderick, Castletown, and the south and south-west of the Island generally ; but following the contrary one we go along the South Quay, and after passing a few lodging-houses reach the iron foundry of Mr R. Gelling, and shortly afterwards the works of the Douglas Gas Company at the corner of Fort Anne-road, and in the bed of an extensive stone quarry. A little further on are a sailcloth manufactory and other works on the road side, whilst by the quay lie moored probably, a number of colliers from English and Scotch ports; coal we may observe, being an expensive commodity in the Manx market, but an article so necessary that it forms an important import trade for though it as said that the Isle abounds in coal, no one has yet succeeded in discovering it. As we walk along the South Quay we obtain the best view of the houses opposite, the Market-place and St. Matthew's Chapel, the offices of the Steampacket Company, the Imperial Hotel, the Old Pier, and the numerous vessels and small boats in the harbour. Passing on we arrive at Fort Anne jetty a structure erected many years ago for the protection of the harbour: Beyond this point the new Breakwater works extend for some distance. From the Breakwater the rambler must return again by the way already traversed, or may hail a boat from the Fort Anne jetty, which will carry him across to either of the piers.

SIXTH ROUTE.

To reach the Tower of Refuge, we must hire a boat either at one of the piers or on the shore opposite the Promenade according to convenience, and, by either rowing ourselves or engaging a boatman for the purpose, we may in a few moments be landed on the small rock islet in Douglas Bay which bears the several names of " St. Marys Isle" and " Conister," a natural island which, says a local chronicler, has been "apparently dropped in that particular spot to add a last charm to one of the loveliest of scenes," and in that opinion all must coincide" Those who have seen the Tower when nought of the rock has been visible above the surrounding waters can easily imagine the danger which this sunken reef presented to the mariner in former years, and can perhaps, in some slight degree, appreciate the kindness of the lady who first erected here a warning beacon for the seaman's guide, and a place of refuge for the wave-tossed, shipwrecked crew whom fate might cast upon St. Mary's little Isle.

Landed upon the island, then we enter the arched doorway, and ascend a flight of steps, which lead to a small terrace and to the lower apartment of the Tower. Either here or on the tower above we may partake of "refreshment" in the shape of confectionery and various liquors, but if declining this we must pay a trifle before ascending higher. When the top is gained, however, we are well remunerated for our trifling outlay, and whilst we sit here at a clean little table in the open air, with our cigar or biscuit, our cyder or ginger beer, we may scan at ease the scene around - or at least such portion as is not interrupted by the intervening bodies of other tourists, who are always plentiful here except at early morn or "evening's twilight hour."

Previous to 1832 the Conister Rock was wholly unprotected, and was a constant source of danger to vessels crossing Douglas Bay, but more especially at high tide, when it was completely submerged beneath the waves. In that year, however, Lady Hillary, wife of Sir William Hillary, perhaps from having the rock almost constantly tn view from her own windows at Fort Anne, hit upon the idea of erecting some signal by which the dangerous locality should be noted, and finally, by her means, the Tower of Refuge was erected, a haven and rest for the shipwrecked mariner who might fortunately escape from the stormy billows and crawl hither. In the rough winter's weather the doors are never closed, and in summer, when the tower is occupied by the lessee of the refreshment rooms, only so much is closed as will serve to protect the contents from the depredations of dishonest visitors. As we stand on the tower and look around the distant view is much the same as that described in speaking of the New Pier (Route I.), but we have have a better view of the margin of the bay and the amphitheatre-like town rising from it. On our left hand we have Douglas Head rising from the sea to a height of 315 feet, with the lighthouse at its base and the "Head Hotel" near the summit. further on, to the right of Fort Anne, the Nunnery Howe rises to a considerable altitude, and from the point where this dips down to the westward we have a series of spires and towers rising above the roofs of Douglas. To the right of the town we see between the distant hills and the margin of the bay the precipitous cliffs which extend from Castle Mona to Burnt Mill Hill, their summits being well adapted for such noble residences as the castellated mansion called Falcon's Cliff, commanding a view for miles upon miles of both land and sea. On the margin of the bay, southward, we have the New Pier, the Imperial Hotel, the Peveril Hotel, the Aquarium and Baths, and the Loch Parade. Above these the eye beholds the spire of St. Barnabas' Church on the left, and the dark, square towers of St. Mary's higher in the scene, with the small white spire of the Circular-road Congregational Chapel in close proximity, as is also the variegated one of St. Andrew's Presbyterian Chapel. To the left of St, Mary's the summit of the square, low tower of St. George's may be seen, and then to the right of this group of ecclesiastical beacons we see the red spire of Finch-hill Chapel and the squared pinnacled tower of the House of Industry - an institution which merits a share of pecuniary consideration from the tourist, Below this last, and at the end of a long series of bold and classically-designed terraces, which rise on either hand of Finch-road, the eye discerns the tower of St. Thomas's Church, and from this point naturally follows the margin of the bay, past Villa Marina, a few years ago the Government House, on the first removal of the Governor's residence from Castletown, and alights on the Iron Pier, with its hundreds of occupants - for in spite of the glorious scenery which surrounds Douglas on the land side the Iron Pier is ever an attraction to all classes, From the Iron Pier, northward, the eye rambles over Clarence-terrace, the Esplanade, Derby-terrace, and the Castle Lawn, all on the margin of the bay, with Marathon and many noble-looking houses in that locality above them. Next we have the princely mansion and grounds of the Castle Mona Hotel, and immediately beyond, and above these the elevated eyrie-like tower of Falcon Cliff, perched, as it seems, upon the very edge of a lofty ivy-clad precipice, at the base of which "Mona Cliff" lies in quiet Seclusion, forming a striking contrast to its conspicuous neighbour above. A. little beyond Mona Cliff may be seen an opening towards the foot of the cliff, and it will be observed that two tracks ascend from it to the summit of the cliff, but in opposite directions, and these we draw attention to that the visitor may remember the locality when necessary in one of the rural rambles. Still further on, the "Crescent" and "Queen's" Hotels may be seen, and around them a group of houses at the foot of Burnt Mill Hill, on the way to the village of Onchan, the spire of which is visible on the hill above and.a little to the right. But carrying the eye along the edge of the bay, beyond Burnt Mill Hill, it discerns Derby Castle, an Elizabethan mansion of modern erection, and from this point rugged rocks and lofty headlands bound the northern view.

These, and the deepening glen, the alley green,
The silver stream, with sedgy tufts between;
The mossy rock, the wood-encompassed leas,
The fern-clad islands, and the nodding trees,
The lengthening vista, and the present bloom,
The verdant pathway breathing waste pefume -
These are thy charms: the joys which these impass
Bind thee, blessed island! close around my heart!