[from Brown's Popular Guide, 1887]

RAMBLES AROUND DOUGLAS.

Instead of taking the town routes in rotation, as we have given them, the visitor to Douglas will do well to devote the morning to a stroll through the streets, and then, after a sufficient rest, he may in the afternoon or evening take a ramble into the country, and enjoy the scenes there exposed to his admiring gaze, the able-bodied and strong extending their rambles to the longer distances, whilst the old or weakly may confine themselves to the shorter rambles which we shall describe.

RAMBLE No. I

Is not a very long one, but somewhat hilly in a portion of the route, and may be much enjoyed by strong elderly people, but is not to be recommended to the weak or ailing. Proceeding along Buck's-road and along Woodbourne-road, we turn up Brunswick-road, when immediately one of the finest views of hill and dale, woodland and farm, is laid out before us. At the bottom of this road we turn a little the right, and then by the end of the cottage there to the left again, descending a gentle incline into the lovely wood-embossomed valley of the Glas, where, in calm and peaceful solitude, lies the farm of Port-e-Chee (the Haven of Peace).

There is a quiet spirit in these woods,
That dwells where'er the gentle south wind blows ;
Where, underneath the whitehorn, in the glade,
The wild flowers bloom, or, kissing the soft air,
The leaves above their sunny. palms outspread.

The wide, expansive, and level valley about Port-e-Chee will at once strike the eye, and may cause momentary wonder at beholding so capacious a "flat" shut up, as it were, amongst the hills, but the wonder will perhaps in some measure cease, perhaps be increased, when it is known that the billows of the Menavian Sea once rolled over this fertile plain, and that in those far-off days, perhaps, the "fleet of Mona" anchored in safety within this "Haven of Peace." Passing the bridge which leads to the picturesque farm and its adjacent mill, and skirting the little wood beyond, we reach the bank of the river, which here ripples most musically as it makes its way amongst loose boulders, and little miniature islets formed in the midst of the stream. On the opposite bank stands Cronkbourne (River Hill), the pleasantly situated mansion of Mr Moore, the proprietor of the mills which we shall shortly see. Still following the right bank of the stream, we soon arrive at a most picturesque bridge, a structure so completely clothed with ivy and climbing plants that it has the appearance of a triumphal arch thrown lightly over the stream.

Crossing the Glas at this point, we enter the village of Tromode, which consists of cottages for the employees at the neighbouring sailcloth manufactory, to each of which a small plot of garden ground is attached, and, for the use of the tenants, a neat school-chapel has been erected, and is pleasingly situated at the end of the cottage gardens. Turning up a lane to the right after crossing the river, a footpath will conduct us forward to the shooting ground of the Douglas Volunteers, situated in a most lovely spot, sheltered by umbrageous trees, and redolent of the real Manx perfume, "distilled from Mona's choicest flowers." On the opposite side the valley from the target are the remains of a once important aboriginal fortification, now called Castleward. The lover of ferns might spend a day here very happily, as indeed he may in many another of Mona's lovely glens ; for Man is the land of ferns (some growing six or eight feet high), and as the rose is the badge of England, and the shamrock of the sister isle, so fern most appropriately may be taken as:the badge of Mona.

Instead of turning up the lane, however, the rambler may follow the road up the hill, which leads to the Strang, which we shall mention again ere very long, or he may recross the bridge, and then, turning to the left, follow an old lane which will lead him to a high and almost level road, by which he may return to Douglas, though it is a trifle longer than returning by the way which he has traversed hereto.

RAMBLE No. II.

As in the last ramble, we again pass along Buck's-road and through Woodbourne-road, but, instead of turning to the left, we continue our course in a direct line, and, passing Woodside, have a very good view of Douglas Bay and its headlands. When we have reached the extremity of this road - which is level and suited for all - we turn.a little to the left, and, coming to a junction of four roads, we take the one to the right, which leads us through corn fields and pasture lands to the little picturesque glen at the next junction, which bears the namd of Glen Crutchery, a lovely little spot in all seasons. Here the weakly rambler may turn again, and, taking the left hand road, he will pass the "Falcon" and "Castle-hill" breweries, then, passing over a portion of the grounds of Castle Mona and skirting the gardens of Marathon, he will enter the top of Victoria-road, which conducts him down to Broadway and the Iron Pier, or into Derby-square and its neighbourhood. Instead of turning again at Glen Crutchery, the stronger pedestrian may pass through the Glen, and, following the road, will shortly arrive at the lodge of Bemahague, which is now the residence of his Excellency the Governor of the Island; and, a little further on, a stile admits him to an old lane down, which he may pass to the shore at Burnt Mill-hill, and thus return to town. Proceeding forward, however, he will shortly arrive at a convenient seat by the wayside, where, if necessary, he may rest himself awhile, and admire the scene before him. To the left is Onchan Village and Banks's Howe, in front Douglas Bay and Head, to the right the trees of Glen Crutchery and its locality, and in the field behind stands Bemahague. Passing beyond this Onchan Village is soon reached, but, leaving it for another visit, the rambler may turn to the right, and thus return by the lower end of the lane we have referred to, and then, descending Burnt Mill-hill, reach the northern extremity of the Shore-road, which is a direct route into Douglas proper. Here is the tramway terminus (called ""Derby Castle Station"), and, entering a tram-car, we can get to Douglas in a few minutes,

RAMBLE No. III.

Follow the last route to the four cross roads at Parkfield (recognised by its Italian architecture and a tower in front), when, instead of turning to the right, follow the road in a direct line. We shall shortly reach the end of the old lane which we ascended from Tromode, and which is continued forward on our right hand to Cronk-ny-Mona, a village we shall visit with the strong pedestrian ere long, but going still towards the mountains, we shall have a very picturesque view on our left hand, at which lies the valley of the Glas. Beyond Cronkbourne and Tromode the Lunatic Asylum stands prominently to view on a considerable elevation near to Castleward, the farmhouse of which is conspicuous amongst a few trees on the edge of the valley. A little further on we pass the farm of Ballanerd, and proceeding still further an almost level road suddenly dips down into the little Glen Sulby, and we find ourselves at the Onchan Abbeylands. This is a compact little hamlet, " far removed from care and strife," and may find the artist some little work in sketching the bridge over the river and the picturesque "husteads " at Ballagawne, a few yards beyond the stream. This Glen Sulby, however, must not be mistaken for the Sulby Glen near Ramsey, in the north of the Island. Tired of the scenery at the Abbeylands, we can only recommend the tourist to return direct to Douglas; or, instead of doing so, he may turn down the hill at Parkfield, and, crossing the road to Tromode, pass forward in a direct line until he reaches the Quarter Bridge Inn. .On this road he will have a capital bird's eye view of Port-e-Chee and the Glas Valley, and, as he nears the Quarter Bridge, the end of Braddan new church and the residence of the Drinkwater family, Kirby, will be seen in the midst of luxuriant. wood- land. From the Quarter Bridge, turn to the left, and, passing an old-lettered milestone inscribed "I. Mile from Douglas Chapel," the way leads direct to the end of Athol-street and Circular-road, Douglas.

RAMBLE No. IV.

Perhaps the most favourite walk about Douglas is through the famed Nunnery grounds, and to Kirk Braddan, the parish church of Douglas, where we will now take the visitor. Crossing over the bridge at the end of the harbour we turn to the right and pass some neat modern terraces. A little beyond the neat row of houses we arrive at the gates of the Nunnery Grounds, through which the public have a "right of way," and at once enter an avenue of lofty trees whose umbrageous branches wave gracefully over our heads, and form a canopy most welcome in the hot, sultry days of summer. On reaching the end of this avenue we have a fine view of the Nunnery House, a modern building erected on the site of an ancient nunnery, founded by St. Bridget about the year 567. The present building is a noble mansion, and, with the exception of its most recent additions, is completely ivy-clad. In the beautiful gardens surrounding the house are two remarkable ancient gravestones, beneath which, according to certain antiquaries, were deposited the remains of "the Fair Nun of Winchester," and Matilda, the daughter of Ethelbert, King of Mercia during the Saxon Heptarchy. It is a matter of much regret that the old nunnery building has been suffered to fall to decay, but this neglect is now being repaired as far as possible by the present proprietor, Major J.S. Goldie- Taubman, Speaker ofthe House of Keys, who is "restoring" the Nunnery Chapel, with the intention of having public service therein. Speaking of the old nunnery, Sacheverell, who was Governor of the Island in 1692, says:-" Few monasteries ever. exceeded it either in largeness or fine building. There are still some of the cloisters remaining, the ceilings of which discover they were the workmanship of the most masterly hands ; nothing, in the whole creation (that was a great thing to say, Mr Sacheverell!) but is imitated in curious carvings on it. The pillars supporting the arches are so thick as if that edifice was erected with a design to baffle the efforts of time, nor could it in more years than have elapsed since the coming of Christ have been so greatly defaced had it received no injury but from time ; but in some of the dreadful revolutions this Island has sustained, it doubtless has suffered much from the outrage of the soldiers, as may be gathered by the niches yet standing in the chapel, which has been one of the finest in the world, and the images of the saints reposited in them torn out. Some pieces of broken columns are still to be seen, but the greatest part have been removed." Whilst we gaze upon the Nunnery we arrive at a cannon taken.during the Crimean war, and appropriately placed at the foot of a tall obelisk, which bears this inscription:- "Erected by public subscription in memory of Brigadier-General Thomas Leigh Goldie, of The Nunnery, Lieutenant-Colonel of her Majesty's 57th Regiment. He commanded a brigade of the British Army in the Crimea, and fell in the battle of Inkerman, Nov. 5th, 1854, in the 47th year of his age. Post funera virtus." (After death his merit ts acknowledged. )

Passing on from the obelisk we may, if the trees are not in very full leaf, just see a small portion of the old Nunnery standing above the wall near the farmhouse; then going further we reach the small lake which ornaments the grounds, and is bordered by large and luxuriantly-flowering rhododendrons. Now we enter a second and longer avenue by the side of a wide mill-stream, and cannot but be favourably impressed with the beauty of the scene.

A little further on, the avenue has been broken by the railway to Castletown, and after passing the line the trees become more scattered, until eventually we reach the open country, and cross a small tributary of the Douglas river, beyond which a couple of seats on an elevation afford the weary an opportunity of rest, for here he may sit and enjoy the beauties of the landscape.

Down the adjoining lane the weakly may return by the Peel-road to Douglas, but our stronger friends will pass through the stile near the Mill, and enter a footpath which leads to the mill-stream, and here he will observe the junction of the Dhoo and the Glas into one river. We now arrive at Spring Valley, where-a collection of cottages, with neatly-trimmed flower pots, must command admiration ; and beyond these we cross the road leading to the Quarter Bridge, and enter the back road to Kirk Braddan, commonly called the " Saddle-road," from a peculiar saddle-like stone which projects from the left hand wall some distance further on. Waldron, a marvel-loving old historian of the Island, thus refers to it:- "Not far from Ballafletcher is the 'fairy saddle,' a stone so called, I suppose, from the similitude it has to a saddle. It seems to be loose on the edge of a small rock, and the wise natives of Man tell you it is every night made use of by the fairies, but on what kind of horses I could never find any one who could inform me." A short distance beyond the "saddle stone" we reach the gates of Kirby House on our right hand, and then descend a lane to the western stile of Braddan Churchyard. Before entering the church-yard, however, let the visitor enter the little wood on the left hand, and here he will observe a large number of rocks scattered about in all directions. By the side of the little stream, however, he will see that some larger ones retain an erect position. Dr. Oliver, in one of his works in reference to the Island, says that these remains consist of "large stones, mounds, and irregular excavations, more.or less marked, and a quantity of débris, the accumulation of ages. It once encompassed the entire churchyard of Braddan and the site of the old Ballafletcher House, extending as far as the Chibber Niglas. Immediately within the eastern boundary of this field, and firmly embedded in the ground, lies a large block of stone, 4 feet broad by 7½ long, hollowed at the top like a font. The inner circle of the temple is bisected by the Kewaigue-road, which, with the plantation and the churchyard, has completely obliterated the eastern half. The western vallum and ditch, however, are still distinctly to be seen, together with the stones which formed the margin of the inner enclosure. An avenue edged. with stones leads from the south-west into the ditch, a peculiarity only to be found in Abury, of all the Celtic monu- ments in Britain. Whether a second existed it is difficult to say, for the whole is so defaced and altered, by the growth of trees and buildings erected within its precincts, that in a. few more years its distinctive features will be entirely lost.

And now let us enter the sacred precincts of the Church.of St. Brandan. Taking the monuments on the right hand. side of the path first, we shall notice in the corner, near the stile, two of the Runic crosses which were erected by the early Scandinavian Christians in the ninth or tenth century, perhaps earlier, most of them being the work of Gaut Bjornson, a Norwegian artist ; but it is possible that there was. also a Manx artist, or at least designer, for some of the: crosses are ornamented with a design peculiarly Manx, and. not to be found on any others throughout the known world. A little below the gate, and close by the path, is a headstone to the memory of Henry Hutchinson, thus inscribed :- At. an early age he entered upon a seafaring life, in the course: of which, being of a thoughtful mind, he obtained great skill and knowledge of his profession, and endured, in all climates, severe hardships with exemplary courage and fortitude. The latter part of his life was passed with a beloved sister upon this Island. He died at Douglas, the 23rd of May,. 1839, aged 70."

Between this grave and the church stands a tall obelisk, ornamented with the trie cassyn (or "legs of Mann") on a. medallion upon the western face, and an armorial coat upon. the eastern. The latter face also contains the following inscription upon a marble slab :-"The Right Honourable Lord Henry Murray (fifth son of the noble John, Duke of Atholl), Lieutenant-Colonel Commandant of his Majesty's Regiment of Royal Manx Fencibles. Died, the third day of December, 1805, in the 38th year of his age". On the western face the inscription is thus continued :- "This sincere testimonial of affection and deep regret for their commander and their friend is erected by the officers of the: regiment. His saltem accumulem donis et fungar inant: munere. Virg: Aeneid VI."

In the south-west corner is erected a headstone to the memory of the Rev Robert Brown, formerly vicar of the parish, and author of "Kirk Braddan by Moonlight," and other poetic pieces, but owing to the strange custom here of painting the monuments black, and choking up the letters with the same colour, the inscription on this, as on many other stones, is almost illegible. Going now to the south side of the steeple we see there a very ancient monument reared against the wall, and by its side the foot-stone of another Cross. Portions of three other crosses, one. of them in a very perfect condition, stand elevated upon a heap of Stones in the centre of the yard, the principal of them being highly decorated with scroll-work and fighting dragons-the Runic inscription upon the edge stating that " Thorlaf Neaki erected this cross to the memory of Fjak, his son, brother's son to Jabr." A little to the east of this another stone contains this verse:-

Farewell to all who did on me a'tend
The faithful servant and the weeping friend :
The time is short till we shall meet again
With Christ, and share the glories of his reign.

Near to the eastern gate lie the remains of Mr Robert Oswald, surgeon, of Douglas, who died in 1862, at the age of 72. A simple marble slab, erected by his family, is the only memorial of him ; but, as the author of "Vestigia," and one who devoted a long period of his life to the study and elucidation of Manx antiquities, we think that the memory of such a man.merits some public and befitting memorial.

Crossing over the path we cannot fail to see a stone pillar surmounted by an urn, and further decorated with a bas-relief representing one of the Manx steamboats. This monument was " erected by a few attached friends in remembrance of Captain Edward Quayle, for 26 years commander in the service of the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company." ""As a sailor," says the inscription, "he was prompt, fearless, and brave. As a man, he felt and acted like a man." Above this, and northward of the church, is a stone erected by the Nunnery family, in memory of an old and faithful servant ; and against the easternmost door is another one which attracts much attention, and is thus described :-" Heve underlyeth ye body of ye Reverend Mr Patrick Thompson, minister of God's word forty years, at present Vicar of Kirk Braddan. Aged 67 anno 1678. Deczased ye agth of April, 1689." The inscription shows that the vicar had his grave-stone erected eleven years before his death.

Entering the church, if the doors be open, we find a few marble monuments attached to the walls The most westerly on the south side is one "in memory of Peter John Heywood, Esq., formerly of the Nunnery, a Deemster of this Island." Next to this, proceeding eastward, we find one in memory of two children of Thomas and Mary Cubbon, who "were drowned in each other's arms in the surf on the coast of Madagascar, on the 26th March, 1868, after enduring very great privations, and suffering eleven days in a small open boat, through the foundering of the ship 'Serica,' after an awful hurricane in the Indian Sea." Between this and the pulpit a slab records the death of the Rev. John Kelly, LL.D., J.P., &c., rector of Copford, near Colchester, and compiler of a polygot dictionary in the Manx, Geelic, and Erse languages. Whilst conveying the manuscript of this laborious work to England, he was wrecked between Ramsey and Whitehaven, but, with great fortitude, he supported himself in the sea, and held the manuscript at arms' length above the waters for the space of five hours. On the east-side of the pulpit a mural tablet, surmounted by a figure weeping over an urn, commemorates Margaret Tennyson Murray ; and opposite this another one, elaborately ornamented with representations of weapons and insignia of war, a. need in memory of the Honourable Richard Murray, eldest son of Lord Henry Murray, a gallant soldier who served with Wellington, but afterwards retired to the Island, where he peacefully served his country in the House of Keys until his death in 1845, at the age of 55 years. . His arms, with the family motto, "Furth fortune and fill the fetters," are engraved at the base of the monument. In one of the window recesses on the north side is a shield-shaped tablet surmounted by "gilt frame," and bearing this inscription, in remembrance of John and Catherine Gelling ::- "They were an example of conjugal felicity for 60 years, and brought up a large offspring agreeable to the Apostle's rule, Ephesians vi. 4"

Leaving the church and yard we pass out by the same way as we entered, and turn down the lane to the new church. The date of the erection of the old church has been fixed as far back as 1291, but we cannot imagine that it was the building now in existence, which has more of the character of the seventeenth or eighteenth century about it. The old church has nothing very remarkable about it, except that the bells are hung in the open arches on the tower, and exposed to all the fury of the elements. The new church is a neat Gothic structure, capable of seating 1,000 people, 300 seats being set apart for the use of visitors. From the churches the tourists may cross the valley to the Cemetery, close at hand, but we advise him to leave it for the next ramble, and now return by the igh road on the right hand, which leads to the Quarter Bridge, and so on to Douglas.

RAMBLE No. V.

Taking the Peel-road from Douglas, when near Kirk Braddan, ascend the hill on the right to Braddan Cemetery, a quiet walk round which offers many attractions to a reflective mind. Continuing our walk to the Strang, we shall find that three courses are open to us :-

A.-We turn to our left, and descending the hill pass a pinfold "presented to this parish, " and soon after emerge again on the Peel-road at the little manufacturing village of Union Mills, where is a neat chapel with clock and spire, erected in memory of the late Mr Dalrymple, and also a neat railway station, with a pretty garden attached. Crossing the bridges on our left hand, we may return by Kirk Braddan to Douglas, or ascend the lane on the right to the Foxdale road.

B.-Instead of descending the hill at Strang follow the road to the right, and, passing the Asylum gates, continue to the junction of two roads, when, following the one on the right, descend the hill, and, having crossed St. George's Bridge and a smaller one near it, which crosses a tributary of the Glas, ascend the opposite hill and gain the Abbey Lands road, by which return to Douglas.

C.-The third course is much the longest of any of the rambles we have recommended, and we should not advise it to be undertaken unless the pedestrian is strong and has plenty of time at disposal. If he be determined to accompany us, however, we will follow the road at the Strang in a direct line, past the racecourse, until we reach a bifurcation at Mount Rule. The road on the left may be followed on another occasion beyond Cormonagh and down to Crosby, and thence back by the high road past Ballagarey, and Union Mills ; but now we take the one to the right, and, passing beneath the waving trees, ascend a slight incline, when suddenly a scene of surpassing beauty bursts open to view, and we stand enraptured to gaze upon the lovely valleys of Bholdin, or Baldwin, and the noble background of lofty mountains.

Charmed with new wonders, raptured as we rise,
Hills far remote the wand'ring eye descries ;
Woods, plains, and rocks, and many a rippling burn,
Fair Mannin's pride, th' encircliu:g scene adorn.

Proceeding along the lane we soon descend into Baldwin village, and here, for the first time, we begin to learn what the Manx mountains are as they tower above us in majestic grandeur. On the left is Colden mountain (1,600 feet) ; and on the right Garraghan (1,520 feet). It is at the head of this valley that the river Glas takes its rise. From the head of the glen a mountain road leads to Kirk Michael and the northern valleys of the Island. From this road the mountains of Garraghan and Bhein-y-Phot (1,772) can be ascended. If the tourist is not inclined to undergo the labour of ascending these heights he may ascend to the pass between Greeba and Garraghan. This walk of barely a mile is amply repaid by a magnificent view, which, when the weather is clear, includes the northern and western sea, the shores of Scotland looming in the dim distance. Our illustration (p. 60) gives. a view from this pass.

Returning to Baldwin, we cross the Injebreck brook, and, after passing a Dissenters' chapel, ascend a mountain. road to Keil Alban, one of the old treen chapels, but which has been replaced by the Protestant chapel of St. Luke. Service is held here en Sunday mornings, and at two o'clock in the afternoon. Descending a little from Kiel Alban, we now cross the ridge to the eastward, and enter the lovely and wood-embosomed glen of East Bholdin ; then, turning to the right, follow a picturesque and secluded road to Ballamoda, and so on to a bridge spanning the River Glas in one of the most delightful nooks which are to be found even in this island of beauties. Crossing this bridge we turn to the left beneath an overhanging avenue of shady trees, and follow the road until we come to the hill which descends to St. George's Bridge, and from this point we may follow the road mentioned in Section B of this Ramble ; or, by continuing in a direct line, pass by the Asylum gates, and again reach the Strang, and either walk from thence tas Douglas or descend to the railway station at Union Mills. This last ramble will form a most lovely drive for the invalid.

RAMBLE No. VI. :

Crossing Douglas Bridge, and following the South-quay as far as the Gas Works, or taking the nearest ferry to that point, we ascend Fort Anne-road, and, passing Fort William, Fort Anne Tower, and the hotel, and arriving at the higher corner of the grounds attached to Ravenscliffe, we find a tablet in the wall directing our steps to Port Skillion Creek, a small sheltered cove which has long been a favourite bath- ing place for gentlemen. It has been considerably improved by Mr. R. Archer, draper, of Douglas, who, at an expense of of nearly £1,000, has laid down concrete platforms to enable divers to plunge into deep water at various states of the tide, and has also erected private boxes for the bathers, in which towels, bathing dresses, &c., may be procured. A ferry boat usually plies between Port Skillion and the Victoria Pier, and there are several steam ferry boats plying between the Battery Pier and the Victoria Pier. Selecting a fine evening for this walk, we turn down the little lane beyond Ravenscliffe and descend to a point over the Battery Break- water, where two walks diverge. The higher one leads to the lighthouse and another to the hotel on Dou- glas Head. The lower walk conducts us by a wooden rail to the top of a flight of steps, and, descending these steps, which are mostly cut from the rock, we find ourselves on the pebbly beach of Port Skillion, with huge rocks towering on high on either hand. Passing on through the creek we ascend a few steps on the farther side, and ascend a footpath which comes from the hill above and leads to the lighthouse -a substantial structure built in 1833, and showing a light visible at fourteen miles' distance. A little further on is a precipitous cliff, which dips down abruptly into the sea, and over which, it is said, criminals of a certain class were thrown into the sea, first being tied up in sacks to prevent all possibility of escape. The following tradition is also related concerning a cliff in the neighbourhood :-" About half way up this cliff is a hollow resembling an elbow chair, and near the top another cavity nearly similar. On the slightest accusation some poor nun was brought to the foot of this rock when the sea had ebbed, and was obliged to climb to the first chair, where she had to remain until the tide had flowed and ebbed twice. Those who had given a greater cause for suspicion were obliged to ascend to the second chair, and to sit there for the same length ot time. Anyone who endured this trial, and descended unhurt, was cleared of all aspersion that had been thrown upon her. Such a lengthened exposure to the elements, so far above the level of the sea, probably occasioned the death of many of these unfortunate creatures." From the lighthouse and adjacent rocks a steep footpath may be climbed to the hotel on the Head, from whence a good road leads down to Douglas. This hotel commands a magnificent view of Douglas and the adjacent country, as well as of the bay.

RAMBLE No. VII.

To the weak or aged no finer or more suitable walk can be found in the whole British Islands than that along the shore to Burnt Mill Hill and Derby Castle. Starting from Victoria Pier, and passing along the Loch Parade and the old Promenade, we reach the Iron Pier, erected some years ago by a local company at a cost of over £6,500, and which is much patronised. Beyond this we have, on our left hand, a fine series of terraces extending to the gates of Castle Mona, all of which command a good sea view. Immediately opposite these terraces is the Douglas: bathing ground. Arrived at Castle Mona, we cannot fail to be struck with the substantial character of the building, a magnificent mansion erected by the last Lord of Man, at a cost of £40,000, the cost being much increased by the carriage of the stone, which came from the Isle of Arran. On the east face will be observed four entablatures of arms, the northernmost being most remarkable as representing the Manx arms with supporter- dexter a merman crowned, in the right hand a portion of wreck ; sinister, a mermaid bearing a branch, probably sea- weed. Both the figures are double tailed from the waist, and together form very admirable supporters, which we should be glad to see more frequently used in connection with the trié cassyn, as we believe this is the only instance in which they are found in this Island. The grounds of Castle Mona cover several acres, and are very beautiful, but only subscribers and visitors have the right of entrance. Immediately beyond Castle Mona, Falcon Cliff Hotel and pleasure grounds tower above us on the adjoining heights, and attract general notice from their picturesque appearance. We pass on until we reach " The Crescent," a very respectable suburb of Douglas, and terminating in Burnt Mill Hil Instead of ascending the hill, we follow the road to the right, and reach Strathallan Crescent and Derby Castle. This beautiful place was originally the property of his Grace the late John, Duke of Athol, formerly Governor-in-chief of this Island. He erected the pretty little one-storyed cottage at the entrance to the grounds, to which subsequently the late Major Pollock added the larger building called "Strathallan Lodge." The Duke merely used this cottage as a fishing lodge; but he was especially fond of the grounds, and enclosed them with the strong sea-wall and round fort, which completely protect it from the inroads of the sea. Here it was his wont to spend a large proportion of the time which he could snatch from the cares of his little kingdom. Derby Castle, surrounded by all these beautiful grounds, was recently purchased as monetary speculation, and "The Derby Castle Hotel and Pleasure Grounds Company, Limited," was formed to open the place as a resort for summer visitors.

Now that this opportunity has been afforded them, no one should visit this Island without paying the Castle at least one visit." We ourselves have heard military and other men who have had the benefit and cultivation of foreivn travel frequently declare that the views of the Bay of Douglas from the headlands in the Castle ground, are simply unsurpassable. Certainly the charms of the place are very real and moreover they are very varied. Art has well assisted Nature, and every step you take opens a new and lovely view. Fashionable promenade concerts are given during the season by the Derby Castle band, and in the evening the band plays dancing music in a newly erected pavilion, calculated to hold 6,000 people, which every night is illuminated with electric and other lamps, the effect of which is very striking. During the week-days various amusements are afforded to the visitors. Derby Castle grounds ought to be seen by every visitor, and the Hotel itself is a most delightful place to sojourn at. The tramway cars run to within a short distance of the gates.

On the top of the hill, on what forms the northern promontory of Douglas Bay, is Victoria Tower. This headland commands a view which it would be difficult to equal in the kingdom. Situated in and surrounded by a large garden, tastefully laid out, and provided with every appliance for out-door amusement - croquet quoits, swings, roundabouts, and (as Artemus Ward would, say) other refreshments"-will be found the Tower, erected by Mr. Stokes (to whom sufficient praise cannot be given) with the laudable desire of adding to the limited number of open-air attractions to the Island. In the tower is a camera [obscura], upon whose mystic surface the beauties of the adjacent neighbourhood, both land and sea may be seen faithfully and clearly reproduced. Nor is this all ; for added to this may be seen a collection of transparencies telescopical, magnetical, galvanical, and electrical wonders truly surprising in so small a space. A very pleasant afternoon may be spent here.

RAMBLE No. VIII.

Proceed along the Peel-road as far as the Quarterbridge Inn ; then turn to the left and cross the railway, going as far as the Saddle-road, which leads to Kirk Braddan. We have now the choice of two courses ; ; either we walk up the hill as far as the four cross roads, and then, turning to the left, descend through Middle village, where are two remarkable hillocks in a field on the right hand, and then cross the stream at Kewaigue, and so return by the Castletown-road to Douglas ; or we may follow the Saddle-road to Kirk Braddan, and then, instead of passing the church, turn up the road on the left hand at the junction of a road which, on our right, leads to the Druidical temple on Slieu Chairne (the Hill of the Lord) and St. Mark's Church, and on the left runs down to Middle village, &c. This last route, though rather long, is one we can recommend, as we have always a fine view in clear weather, and sometimes can even see Maughold Head from this high elevation. A glimpse of Port Soderick Bay may also be obtained as we return.

But, if the rambler be a good walker and fond of antiquarian research, we advise him to visit Glen Darragh before he returns. For this purpose, turn to the right when the Methodist chapel is reached, and ascend the hill in front. The summit being gained, one of the loveliest views in lovely Mona may be obtained, and it well repays any toil the pedestrian may undergo. To the right, the vale of Douglas stretches out before us, and the picturesque farms and homesteads, interspersed in various parts of the scene, add additional charms, whilst, towards the left, Greeba Castle may be seen and the neighbouring village of Crosby, the mountain chain forming a lofty background of towering ridges, amongst which Snaefell is distinctly visible. In fact, this is probably the best distant view of Snaefell that one can have. As we stroll along this elevated road, a cottage to our right stands at the junction of a lane leading down to Union Mills, and a little further on four cross roads are somewhat puzzling to the stranger. Proceed in a straight course, however, and shortly a very gorsey field will be observed on the right of the road, with a farmhouse a little below it, to the left

This is is the place. Stand still, my steed:
Let me review the scene,
And summon from the shadowy past
The forms that once have been.

The Vale of Oaks (as Glen Darragh means in English) is not now adorned with any of those stately trees which the derw-gwyddon of Ancient Britain held sacred, but, though these have been swept away by the course of time, the old Druidical circle is in part still intact, but somewhat disappointing to the expectant antiquary. Pass through the gate into the field, and descend in the direction of the farmhouse, and the circle will stand in the path. Mr Cumming describes the Glen Darragh as a remarkable collection pf stone circles;and writing on this subject, he says :-" The Druicidal circles, as these are frequently, but often falsely, called, are like kist-vaens and barrows, the ancient burying-places of the pagans inhabiting the Island, and may be either British or early Scandinavian. At Glen Darragh there are, in fact, the remains of three circles, but their order has been disturned: some of the stones have been removed, and others thrown down."

Not far trom this is the field called Magher-y-Chiarn (or the field of the Lord), on the estate of Garth, about a mile southward from the old parish church of Marown. Here will be found a noteworthy pile of rocks, which has from the earliest times borne the name of St. Patrick's Chair, and which it is said the blessed saint gave his benediction to the people of the Isle of Man. The lower portion of the cairn, for such it appears originally to have been, is a platform of loose stones, some rounded in form, others flat and angular, of various sizes, built together to a height of two feet, and measuring in length about eight feet six inches, and in depth from east to west about three feet and a half.

Above this platform, on the eastern margin, rise four, and formerly, we imagine there were five tall upright slabs of native blue slate, the two tallest of which are inscribed on their western faces with a deeply- incised cross, that on the taller stone measuring fourteen inches by twelve, and the smaller a foot by nine inches. Approaching this "chair" from the eastward, as we shall if we follow the proper path, the cairn appears to be nothing more than an ordinary heap of rubbish, shot up there for convenience, as a quantity of the smaller rounded and angular stones are fixed upon the eastern face to give support to the upright slabs.

On walking round to the westward, however, we see the character of the structure and the appropriateness of the name at once, and for a time may sit where saints have sat, and ponderover the state of Christianity then and now. A spirit of vandalism has of late years been abroad in the Isle of Man, and has unfortunately destroyed many antiquities of national interest, but we have this memento of primitive Christianity may long escape the spoiler's hand. The "chair" as approached from the west is represented in our illustration.

Proceeding to the old church of Marown, and entering the graveyard, we see standing in the south-west corner, a small pillar with square head, and hollowed at the top into a small basin. Whether this is an ancient font, or the remains of a cross from which the upper part and arms have been broken, we cannot for a certainty determine, but rather incline to the idea of the font. Respecting another stone in the yard we are more positive; this is an old carved Romanesque font cut out of a large block of granite, and placed against the entrance of the church. This old churchyard. too, is peculiarly sacred ground; for, if tradition be true. and in this case we have no reason to doubt it, here are deposited the ashes of three of the Insular bishops-viz.,Saints Conachan, Louvanus, and Rowney, from whom the parishes of Conchan, Lonan, and Marown derive their names. Ma-Rowney ruled the diocese in the latter part of the sixth century, and was seventh bishop of the Isle. It is not impossible that the so-called St. Patrick's Chair, if originally consisting of three incised stones, was erected in memoriam of these three good men ; but there is no authority, traditionary or otherwise, in support of this opinion.

The return from this delightful ramble can be effected by descending the hill from the old church to Crosby railway station, whence the tourist can either return to Douglas by train, or along the highway, past Aitken's Castle, Marown new church, Union Mills ; and so on to Douglas.

RAMBLE No. IX.

Port Soderick is a place often referred to by visitors, and may be reached either by land or water. A footpath over the rocks by Douglas Head is the most romantic, and also the most difficult, mode of access ; but by following the Castletown-road the walk is a moderately easy one, though rather long. Certainly it is one of the prettiest and most enjoyable walks about Douglas. Starting from the Bridge at the top of the harbour, and leaving the Nunnery on the right, for nearly a mile the road leads under a grove of very fine trees, meeting overhead, and giving a most agreeable shade. On coming to the water trough it will be necessary to keep the highroad to the left This is the junction of the old and new roads to Castletown, the latter descending the hill, and passing beneath the railway. Keeping on the direct (or old) road, however, we shall soon observe in a field at a little distance to our right hand, and behind the village of Kewaigue, two remarkable hillocks, which, it is said, formed an important part in the administration of Manx justice long ages ago. At that time trial by battle was in vogue, and the justice of a cause was supposed to rest with the victor who slew his opponent. Here; then, the two litigants would come, each armed with his bow and arrows, the "complainant" taking his stand upon one of the mounds, while the "defendant" would be similarly placed upon the other, and the order to "fire" having been given, away they peppered at each other, with "fiery darts and arrows keen," until one or the other was slain, and the victor was declared to be in the right. That was in "the good old times!" A short walk brings us to the pretty little estate of Ellenbrook on the left. Passing along and up the hill, we cross the Douglas and Castletown Railway. To the right is Oak-hill, a well situated house, with a miniature park, and immediately opposite the lodge is a stile leading to the field road to Port Sodereric. It is better, however, in going to keep straight on up Quine's-hill, which is very steep and long, but the views from it are very fine, and well repay the visitor, as well enable him to inhale fully the pure oxygen of this favoured locality. The handsome square stone house on the left, and early at the top ofthe hill, is Ballamona. To the antiquary a source of pleasure will be found in the ancient remains at this place, these consisting of a stone circle and tumulus, the latter originally about 20 by 15 feet in measurement. In it were found a funeral urn and other antiquities. A large mass of quartz here is supposed to be amonumental erection, and it is probable that the surrounding field was anciently the burying-ground attached to a treen or district oratory. Further on is Sea-view House ; and near to it, on the right, is "Hampton Court," the seat of Captain Penketh, H.K. After advancing a few hundred yards, we turn off to the left to the railway station and the lovely glen of Port Soderic, comprising almost all that is beautiful in nature. Charming wood-land scenery and an emerald-paved valley are here stretched before us in panoramic view. To the right is the Crogga, with its little rivulet running down to the sea. It is a very charming glen - full of a quiet and hushed ; beauty. At the foot of the glen we emerge on the bay, with its bright pebbly and tiny hotel. The rocks in this place are very fine.The pools round to the right of the bay are undoubtedly the best on the Island for good specimens wherewith to furnish aquariums and for studying marine botany. The walk round the top of the cliffs to the right will well repay the slight exertion necessary - the view is most charming and the coast scenery very fine. We can see, to the north, as far as Little Ness. On the south side of the bay are three caves ; the earest one is entered by a narrow slit in the rock, and may generally be walked through, except at high tide; the others, however, must either be visited at low water or by boat. One. represented in our illustration[p. 72]is of very considerable extent, and it is necessary to carry lights in exploring it.

There are several roads home to Douglas, easily found out - one is across the fields, another by the cliffs. The way we prefer, however, is to walk back to Ballamona Chapel, behind which is a lane leading down to the Oakhill stream, and crossing it by an old bridge. By means of this lane we can reach Kewaigue and Middle; then from Middle pass the door of the ivy-clad cot, and so on through the field to Pulrose Farm and Spring Valley. Or, if you prefer a rough and rugged path, leave the lane at the old bridge, and follow the stream until you reach the Castletown new road at the foot of Richmond-hill. Two roads, on the right hand, both lead to Douglas, the one on the right by Kewaigue, the other by the Quarter Bridge. Or, if you prefer it, you will have no difficulty in getting a boat, in the season, and returning to Douglas by sea. It is a good hour's pull, but you will get a breeze, and the rock scenery is simply magnificent. Or, besides any of these routes, the tourist can return to Douglas by rail, from the Port Soderick Station.

RAMBLE No. X.

This ramble, though not a long one, is somewhat fatiquing on account of the rough climbing which it necessitates over the clifis above Derby Castle, but those who object to climbing over fences can keep to the highroad as far as the Village, and meet us in the burial ground there.Ascending Burnt Mill Hill, then, we take the first turn on the sight hand, past the Industrial Home for Destitute Children, and at the extremity of the road we cross the higher, or more northward, of two stiles, and gain a footpath which runs along the edge of the cliff above Derby Castle. As we pass along we turn occasionally to take a peep at the expansive bay of Douglas and the picturesquely-situated town, which, in our opinion, are best seen from the neighbourhood of these cliffs. At one point a very steep path leads from Port-e-Vada (the little creek behind Derby Castle) to the cliff on which we stand, and young adventurous spirits frequently climb it, but the practice is rather risky, and not much to be encouraged amongst "dwellers in the plain." As we pass along the cliff we have a most favourable sea-view. After crossing a stream which trickles merrily through a sequestered depression in the headland, very suitable for a quiet pic-nic on a small scale, we enter a large field, and, passing around (not across) this, we find ourselves on the margin of Onchan Harbour, with its sea-worn caves and chasms, and its beautiful floral gems. In the summer season " Onchan beach" is a perfect paradise of wild flowers. Descend by the winding road to beach, if you are so inclined ; then, returning, follow the road, and after ten minutes' walk you arrive at Onchan Church, which is almost as sequestered as that of Braddan. It is now called St. Peter's, but whence it obtained that name we know not, its original and proper name having been Saint Concha or Conchan, the previous building having been dedicated to St. Concha, the mother of St. Patrick, who himself it is said was one of the first preachers of Chrtstianity in this Island. The church is picturesquely situated, and commands a pleasant prospect of sea and land. The interior, which has recently been restored, is capacious and neatly pewed; and the eastern end is occupied by chancel, vestry, and Governor's chapel, and lighted with two small side lights and a traceried central window, containing representations of the Virgin, St. Peter, &c, and a dedicatory inscription. Several mural tablets adorn the walls of the edifice, these being principally of the Bacon and Heywood families, the latter being descendants of Robert Heywood, Governor of the Isle of Man in 1678, whose arms - arg. between two bendlets, gu. three torteauxes - appear, with several quarterings, upon the monuments, together with their crest - a falcon ppr. rising from the trunk of a tree - and the motto "Alte Volo" (I fly high). This church has long been a favourite place for the interment of strangers, and here we and laid memorials of defunct inhabitants of most of the morthern counties of England, besides Scotchmen and others.

Reclining against the north side of the tower is an ancient Runic cross in good preservation, but of simpler design that those in Braddan. On the north of the church, very primitive gravestones, "with uncouth rhymes and shapeless sculpture decked," being nothing more than rough undressed stones, rudely carved with names and dates which are now almost obliterated. One of the most perfect reads -"Here lies the body of John Cannell, 1641 ;" and lower down, "John Cannell was laid here 14 of Aug., Adam Cannell, 1667."

Returning towards Douglas through Onchan village we may give a peep into the Nursery Gardens there, or at the Runic monuments at St. Catherine's, close by the village, or, passing these, keep along the Governor's-road, on our right hand, and, passing Bemahague and Glencrutchery, turn to the left and descend towards the tower of Falcon Cliff, which will now appear before us. Before arriving at the Falcon Brewery, which has been before passed (in Ramble II.), we shall, however, reach four cross roads, the one on the left hand leading by a picturesque path to the shore road, through a charming place known as "Little Switzerland," and the one to the right hand conducting to the "gipsies' encampment," where for a few pieces of silver inquisitive searchers into futurity may, perhaps, learn something of their destiny.

RAMBLE No. XI.

Proceed along the most direct route to Glencrutchery ; then, having reached the road beyond, turn to the left, and, winding along the edge of the well-wooded glen the pedestrian will continue to ascend a pleasant road, until, having passed a few ruined cottages on the left hand, he reaches another one which crosses this at right angles. The one to the right would conduct us to Onchan, but, choosing the other, we pass forward, and shortly arrive at cross roads at Cronk-ny-Mona. From this point we have an extensive view of the Vale of Braddan, bounded on the left in the far distance by Slieu Chiarn, the Granite Mountain, Foxdale, South Barrule (anciently called Warfell), and Slieu Whallin, the latter dipping down into the Neb valley, and then rising again on the right to form the craggy and precipitous slope of Greeba. Directly opposite to us the homestead of Glen Ville lies in the valley at our feet, and further away Colden, Creg Whuallian, Carraghan, and Slieu Meayl lift aloft their towering heads. Turning to the right at Cronk-ny-Mona, we soon reach the junction of two roads at Hillbury, a few houses near a Methodist chapel, and about as unlike a "bury" (either on a hill or elsewhere) as is possible. The road to the left leads to Laxey, Snaefell, &c., by various branches, and affords a good view of the mountain scenery in the northern part of Braddan ; but, keeping to our right, we pass on below Slegaby, and having crossed the secluded little glen Ballacottier, turn to the right, and descend a picturesque road through the Black Quarter to Ballacain and the Bowring Mills, the latter, however, being hidden from view, together with a portion of the Douglas Waterworks, in the bottom of the precipitous and romantic valley. Having followed the winding road for a considerable distance downward, we pass a few roofless tenements, and reach the bridge spanning the stream at Wellington corn mills, and standing here we have a glorious view of the scenery of the glen, backed by Slieu Meayl and its neighbouring mountains in the rear. Resting for a moment to enjoy this scene, and fix it upon the mind, we next face the steep ascent before us, and though it may be rather difficult for some the toil is not long continued, for we shortly gain the summit of the hill, and a level road conducts us to the Lonan extremity of Onchan village. Crossing the Lonan road at the end of the lane, and looking over the hedge, we shall espy a small lake quietly nestled in a gentle depression of the land, and on the eminence beyond stand the church and vicarage of Onchan parish. Turning to the right and passing along the village, which is remarkably like some of the agricultural villages in the south of England, we soon reach the road leading to the shore, and by its means return to Douglas. This ramble, we should say, is too long for many persons, even for those considering themselves active pedestrians, and to these we can recommend it as a drive, as in the case of the ramble through Baldwin.

Should the pedestrian still have time on hand, after saking himself practically acquainted with the beauties to which we have alluded - not attempted to describe - we cannot do better than recommend. him, if he has a week to spare, to follow the plan laid down in our chapter, "Seven Days in the Isle of Man." Should he tramp the Island according these directions, he will have a trip that will afford him twice the amount of pleasure he would derive if he spent the whole time in Douglas, and which will prove very much more ecomomical This cannot be done, however, by everyone, and for those who must tarry in Douglas, or its neighbourhood. there are walks across the country which lie between our various routes of travel, and all these we heartily recommend.

Professing here to write a guide to Douglas and its environs we have given our experience as pedestrians, but with the exception of the walk round the cliffs to Onchan, that to Port Skillion, that round Douglas Head to Port Soderick, and that from Tromode to the Onchan Abbey Lands road, all may be used as drives, and for the benefit of the invalid we now give a list of others :-

I - By Kirk Braddan to St. Mark's, returning by Crosby or Newtown
II.- By Quarter Bridge to Newtown returning by Crogga and Oakhill
III.- Through West Baldwin to Injebreck, returning by East Baldwin
IV.- By Union Mills, Strang, and Abbey Lands.
V.- By Glencrutchery to Cronk-ny-Mona, returning by Hillbury, Ballacain, Wellington Mills, and Onchan.

All these are within an easy distance of Douglas, but for instructions regarding the longer routes to Peel, Laxey, Ramsey, Castletown, Port Ierne (or Erin), &c., we must so the tourist elsewhere in the " Popular Guide to the Isle of Man.


 

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