[From Buck Whaley's Memoirs]

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Cyprus-Character and Manners of the Modern Greeks -Crete-Arrival at Marseilles-The Lazaretto-Paris-DublinBrighton-English Blacklegs-A Scuffle with Opposition-The French Revolution, etc.-A French Gambling-house-King's Return from Varennes, etc.-Reflections on Gaming, etc.

BEFORE I leave the country of ancient heroes and demi-gods, I must beg permission to make a few observations respecting what I have seen and heard of the character and manners of the modern Greeks.

Ancient Greece, which once presented to the admiring world so many noble and flourishing cities, and gave birth to so many distinguished warriors, poets and orators, now appears a desolate and ruined country ; where the hand of despotism has levelled to the ground the monuments of its former grandeur ; extinguished the fire of genius and destroyed the energy of its inhabitants.

The wretched descendants of those renowned heroes are at the present day distinguished only for low cunning, baseness, ferocity and the grossest superstition. The abject state of slavery and humiliation to which they are reduced has rendered them mean and dastardly.

But I must not omit to observe that such of the inhabitants as are at a small distance from the seat of empire seem still to preserve a portion of hereditary spirit, particularly those of the Tagget mountains,¹ who maintain that they are the true descendants of the ancient Spartans. These people could never be subdued: but in order to preserve what they call their independence, they pay to this moment a tribute to the Porte.

The Greeks differ very little from the Turks in their manners ; but fall infinitely short of them in point of sincerity and fidelity. The only difference in their dress is that the Greeks are not permitted to wear green, or yellow. The Greeks very often give their daughters in marriage to Turks ; but it must be on condition that the children of these Grecian ladies shall be brought up in the Mahommetan religion.

The marriage ceremony is always performed in the presence of a priest, and is held a sacrament ; but the union is not considered as indissoluble : and accordingly a divorce is obtained on merely applying for it, and the parties are at liberty to marry as soon after as they may think proper.

The brilliant torch of Hymen, so celebrated by the ancient poets, is not forgotten by the modern Greeks. It is placed in the nuptial room, and remains there till it be consumed. As soon as the bride arrives at the house of her husband, she is obliged to walk over a cribble placed on the carpet for that purpose, and should she not break it, the husband, without further proof, would give way to suspicions of the most unfavourable kind : therefore great care is taken that those cribbles should be of a very fine texture.

It is the custom, always to burn a lamp in their bedrooms-the rich from habit, the poor from devotion and this lamp is placed before an image.

The women are intolerably proud, though not so handsome as they are represented by many travellers. The most beautiful are in the island of Chio. They all paint their eyebrows with a preparation of antimony and gall-nuts. They are not allowed to live with a Frank without having previously obtained permission from the Cadi. The Grecian ladies never appear in public without a numerous suite, and at public ceremonies they are always on horseback.

The wind, for the first part of our voyage, was pretty fair, and after a navigation of ten days we discovered the island of Candia, formerly called Crete, so celebrated in ancient history and mythology. This island is about two hundred miles long and fifty broad, and is at present chiefly inhabited by Greeks, who are said to pay the strictest regard to social and moral duties. The island produces plenty of excellent wine, corn, oil, silk and hemp, and is covered with olive-trees as large and flourishing as those of Toulon and Seville. The capital, of the same name, which was formerly so populous, is now almost desolate : it is, however, the see of a Greek archbishop, and its walls are still standing.

At the extremity of the town is a small rivulet, supposed to be the river Lethe of the ancients. Mount Ida, so famous in history, is nothing but a sharp pointed eminence, or craggy ridge, which divides this island. This mountain, however, must not be confounded with mount Ida in the neighbourhood of Troy, where the shepherd Paris adjudged the prize of beauty to the goddess Venus.

The Labyrinth so famed in Classic history, built by Daedalus in imitation of that in Egypt, extends for upwards of two miles under a hill at the foot of Mount Ida.

The next day we descried the island of Cythera, now called Cerigo, forty miles distant from the island of Candia. It was sacred to Venus, with a very ancient temple of that goddess, who was supposed to have emerged from the sea near its coasts.

We now continued our course for several days without interruption, till, within three leagues of the island of Malta, we discovered a vessel which our captain thought bore a suspicious appearance. Having examined her with my glass, I perceived that she had no guns, but was full of men armed with sabres and pistols.

Our fears subsided a little on her nearer approach, as we saw that she carried Tunisian colours ; and those states were then at peace with France, to which nation our vessel belonged. Having no boat on board, they made us a signal to hoist out ours : and when within hail they ordered our captain to go on board and carry with him some brandy, a chart and a compass ; which having obtained, they permitted us to proceed without even returning us thanks ; judging, perhaps rightly, that they owed their acquisition more to our fears than any friendly disposition towards them.

A few days after we made Cape Bona, on the Barbary Coast, and soon after discovered Sardinia on our starboard. At length, in thirty-seven days after our departure from Cyprus, we came to an anchor in the port of Marseilles.

The captain went on shore to deliver his letters at a particular place appointed for that purpose, as all vessels coming from the Levant are obliged to perform quarantine at the lazaretto, or Pest-house, of Marseilles. If in the space of those forty days none of the crew fall sick, they are enlarged and permitted to enter the pales of society ; otherwise the quarantine recommences until they are all in perfect health.

The lazaretto is one of the best establishments I have seen for strict order and regularity.

The building, which is very extensive, is situated on the sea-side and surrounded by high walls, within which are several large squares, for the purpose of airing the merchandise, lest they might retain infection. The crew of every vessel is separately guarded, and should any person who had nearly performed his quarantine touch any one who was just entering on it, he becomes, ipso facto, re-involved in the same necessity of probation with the other. If even a friend comes to visit him, he must not approach nearer than two yards from the grated door and should he be so imprudent as to touch him, he is subject to the same painful confinement.

This excellent institution is regulated by the Board of Trade, who every year appoint twelve merchants under the title of Superintendents of Health, with unlimited authority in everything that regards the establishment.

Having passed thirty² days in this retreat, as we had letters of health from our Consul, we were at length judged fit once more to become members of society, an intelligence which I received with inexpressible joy and satisfaction, and resolved to make ample amends for the long abstinence and self-denial I had undergone.

On my first visit to Marseilles I became acquainted with a young officer of Infantry, who had distinguished himself, as a spendthrift, a gambler and a self-sufficient blockhead. He possessed all the volubility and vain boasting of his countrymen, without any of their agreeable qualifications. This worthy gentleman often came to see me while I was in the lazaretto ; and as soon as the auspicious day was announced, I commissioned him to make every necessary preparation to celebrate the joyful event of my deliverance from this tedious and irksome Moore's Journal says twenty-one days. confinement ; as it was my wish that nothing should be wanting, as far as money, wine and the fair votaries of the Cyprian goddess, with whom this happy city abounds, could contribute to the entertainment of a select party.

This was a charge which he undertook with the greatest readiness, and acquitted himself entirely to the satisfaction of his friends. Everything was comme il faut. But as usual on these occasions, the lot fell upon Jonas ; for besides the extravagant charges of the entertainment I lost three hundred Louis d'ors at play to complete the happiness and hilarity of these good-natured friends.

After I had rested a fortnight at Marseilles, I set out for Paris, and amused myself there and [in] its environs for about three weeks.

I had the honour of being introduced to a lady of high rank, who was the particular favourite of a great personage, and who has since ended her career in a manner, at that time little expected, which may be justly considered one of the most extraordinary events of this extraordinary age.

This unfortunate victim, to whom every heart and every court in Europe was then paying homage, could not afterwards find one individual resolute enough to risk his life for her deliverance. She shone then a bright star in all the splendour of royalty !

Coming one evening to this lady's house, she honoured me with particular attentions and entered into a long conversation with me on the subject of my travels, in the course of which she made such observations as proved her a lady of brilliant wit and much information. Soon after this conference, I quitted Paris for London, where I did not remain long, being impatient to receive the reward of my dangerous expedition.

When I arrived in Dublin I produced such incontestable proofs of having accomplished my arduous undertaking, and fulfilled my engagement, that my friends, who had staked their money on the supposed impracticability of the journey, were obliged reluctantly to pay me fifteen thousand pounds.³

The expenses of my journey to Jerusalem amounted to eight thousand, so that I cleared seven thousand pounds⁴ by this expedition ; the only instance in all my life before, in which any of my projects turned out to my advantage.

On leaving London, I committed my fine Arabian horse to the care of my groom. All the amateurs and knowing ones of London flocked to see him.

One of them offered me a thousand guineas for the horse : but as I had no intention of parting with him for any sum, the offer was of course rejected. In a few days after, I received, with inexpressible grief and vexation, the news of his death. It was the general opinion, that some scoundrel, under the malign influence of envy, had poisoned this incomparable quadruped ; and though I could never discover the author, yet I have not the smallest doubt of the fact.

I remained in Dublin upwards of two years, during which time I addicted myself to play with unabating eagerness, and with various success : but upon the close, the balance was considerably against me.

It was at that period I happily formed an acquaintance with a lady of exquisite taste and sensibility from whom I have never since separated. She has been a consolation to me in all my troubles-her persuasive mildness has been a constant check on the impetuosity of my temper, and at this moment, constitutes, in my retirement, the principal source of all my felicity.

When I had gone the round of all the amusements which my own country could afford, I panted after something new, and as I never had a fixed establishment in London, I thought this scheme offered an opportunity of gratifying my volatility. With that rapidity which marked all my actions, I took a house in London; bought horses and carriages ; subscribed to all the fashionable clubs and was in a short time a complete man of the ton at the West End of the Town.

I had the honour of being presented at Court; and was particularly introduced to his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, who honoured me with every mark of polite attention, for which this Prince is so eminently distinguished.

After having for some time enjoyed the pleasures of the metropolis, I went to the races at Brighton. One evening, after having had the honour of dining with H.R.H. at the Pavilion, we repaired to the ball-room, where he did me the honour of introducing me to the Duchess of C-.⁵

The wine I had drank, joined to the habit I had acquired abroad, of behaving with very little ceremony to ladies, made me behave with so little respect and decorum towards the duchess, that had I met with my real deserts, I should have been kicked out of the ball-room. I shall never be able to suppress the reproaches of my heart for my unwarrantable behaviour in addressing this lady in too familiar and unbecoming a manner. But she goodnaturedly imputed my conduct to the effects of wine the only excuse our poor countrymen can make for their various absurdities and errors in all parts of the world.

After the Ball, I took a walk with two of my friends upon the Steyn, and as we were returning we heard the voices of many people in a house, which we had no sooner entered than we discovered several of our friends, surrounded by some of the most noted blacklegs in England, deeply engaged at play. Though I knew the character of those I had to deal with, yet such was my blind attachment to play that I could not resist the opportunity; and according to the proverb, embraced the evil in order to avoid the temptation.

Whether my adversaries meant to draw me in by encouraging me at first, or that the dice ran unusually in my favour, certain it is that I was, in a little time, a gainer of more than five hundred guineas : whereupon one of the blacklegs, vexed at his ill-luck, vented his chagrin in such impertinent language to me, that I was provoked to give him a most hearty thrashing, which broke up the party for the night.

The next evening I returned to the scene of action, and not only lost what I had won the preceding night, but a considerable sum beside.

When I came home, Mr. C- my fellow-lodger and companion in affliction, asked me if I did not perceive that we had been most egregiously cheated ? I answered no, and that I believed our losses were owing merely to ill-luck. " I am convinced to the contrary," replied he, " and that Rascal Major G-, I have no doubt, is the principal agent in the business." " Impossible," said I ; a man of his fortune and connections could not descend to such meanness." " Well then," added Mr. C- " are you willing to put it to the proof ? If so, I will undertake this night, to convict this man of fortune and high connections, of using false dice ; which, on my honour, I believe he conceals in the hollow of his hand, to be produced whenever a fit occasion offers."

I immediately expressed my approbation of my friend's proposal, and having fixed our plan, we repaired to the place appointed, accompanied by Col. St. L- and the Abbe St. F-, both of whom quitted the room soon after our arrival. We found nearly the same company as the evening before. It was then about midnight ; and the better to carry on our scheme we affected to be much intoxicated, an appearance which the Major likewise assumed, though for a very different purpose.

After some throws of the dice the Major's turn came. We staked very large sums, which were eagerly accepted. At the moment of throwing my friend gave the signal, and instantly seized on the Major's hand. I flew to his assistance, calling at the same time to the rest of the company for their interference, asserting that the Major had false dice and that we were ready to stake our lives upon the issue of a strict examination.

Not a soul interfered in the dispute ; so that [we] were left to contend with our adversary, who exerted all his strength to withhold from us the proof of his villany. After a severe scuffle, the violence of our exertions at length brought us all to the ground near the sideboard, from whence I snatched a knife and threatened the Major, that if he did not instantly disclose what he had in his hand I would cut it open. Finding it vain to contend any longer, he at last complied, and we, with a mixture of indignation and astonishment, discovered the object of our search, namely a pair of dice, while those with which the company played remained on the table.

Upon examination we found them to be so contrived as never to throw seven; a main which the Major constantly called ; so that whatever chance he brought, though apparently against him, was in fact in his favour. He took all the odds that were offered him and of course could never lose.

We now found it as difficult to protect the Major from the rage of the company as we had before to procure assistance against him. The majority were for throwing him out of the window ; and indeed the poor devil himself, almost dead with apprehension, seemed to expect nothing but instant destruction. He pressed my hand and begged for mercy. My compassion was moved, which at once suppressed my resentment ; and he was through my intercession, joined by that of my friend, at length suffered to depart, after I had given him a glass of wine to raise his drooping spirits and enable him to find his way home.

That which generally happens at all gaming-tables, in consequence of a scuffle, was precisely the case at ours ; for not only all the money which the Major had won, and lay before him on the table, disappeared, but every individual of the company complained of having been either cheated or robbed-for the truth of which I can vouch with respect to one of the company, as on my return home I found myself literally penniless.

I took care to get the false and the fair dice sealed up by the groom-porter, in whose possession they were left till the next day, when he had orders to deliver them into the hands of Sir Charles B-,⁶ the Steward of the Course, who produced them at the Jockey Club, of which I was a member, and it happened that the Prince of Wales dined with us that day. The implements were handed about and every one had a fling at the unfortunate Major: for among gamblers as well as among women, reputation is of the most tender nature, and consequently is injured, or perhaps utterly lost, by the smallest stain or imputation.

The Prince highly commended our conduct : but at the same time observed that had we failed in our attempt to wrest from the Major the incontestible proof of his fraudulent practice, we should probably have cause to, repent our enterprise.

The Major, as we afterwards learned, set off, in about a quarter of an hour after he had left us, for Falmouth, where he embarked for Jamaica, in hopes of arriving there in time to sell his property before his disgrace should be known in that quarter of the globe. But notwithstanding all his caution and expedition, the story got the start of him ; and to his utter ruin, had even reached the ears of his relation, Admiral G-, who would not admit him into his presence.

Thus disgraced and disappointed, he re-embarked for England, and died, as was generally supposed through excessive grief and vexation, on his passage.

The races being now over, at which, contrary to my usual custom, I met with some success, and having made some necessary arrangements, I returned to London and soon resumed my former course of life.

My next trip was to Newmarket, a glorious arena ! in which I had an opportunity of entering the lists against Mr. F-,⁷ not in a political discussion or a trial of oratorical powers, though in these I might have made some proficiency had I availed myself of the very favourable opportunities that presented themselves to me on my first setting out in life, having been returned a Member in the Irish Parliament at the early age of eighteen ; a circumstance which induced me to apply myself, for some time, to the study of the constitution, laws and commerce of the country, with that degree of attention and assiduity, which so important and arduous a pursuit required : but the dissipated life into which I afterwards plunged, soon put a period to this and every other serious and laudable application.

But to return to Mr. F., there is not among his most devoted friends a greater admirer of his genius, talents and manly eloquence than I am : yet at that time, his abilities as a statesman were not less conspicuous than the dissipation of his manners. He could sit up a whole night at a gaming table, and the next day make the Treasury Bench shake by the force of arguments. In our contest I paid a compliment of two thousand guineas to his superior skill, and six thousand to several others of the same party: among whom was H.R.H. the Duke of Y-,⁸ so that the opposition was completely triumphant, and levied a pretty severe fine on my purse.

Of all the severe losses I ever sustained, this was the one I least regretted ; as I had not the most remote idea of suspecting the honour or integrity of my antagonists.

The French Revolution, at this time, began to make some noise in the world. All Europe had their attention on the National Assembly. Our nation was particularly respected by the French, and the Constitution of England [was] looked upon as the best model for their intended fabric.

This was the shield, under which the Orleans faction covered their designs, and concealed the horrors and widespreading evils they were then preparing for their ill-fated country. Under the pretext of reformation they drew to their party all those whose notions of liberty were perfectly consistent with principles of the very best constitution ; whilst the populace were enticed by the abolition of titles and the sacrifice of a few privileges which the faction could easily resume when their power was once established. By these means they concentrated the whole force of the kingdom, and at one blow, overturned a monarchy which had stood the test of so many ages.

Amongst the many whom curiosity led to this wonderful scene of action, I repaired to Paris in the year 1791. On this occasion, and two more visits which I afterwards paid to France, I was enabled to make some observations on the infatuated people of that vast and once flourishing empire.

With a considerable sum of money in my pocket, I arrived at Paris, that epitome of the world, where greatness and meanness, riches and poverty, wisdom and folly, are all to be met with in their highest degree.

This immense city has at all times been the rendezvous and asylum of all the intriguers and desperadoes of Europe. It was likewise the abode of the most celebrated artists, as well as the most learned, the most opulent and most profligate of mankind.

Every person I saw wore, in some shape or other, the tri-coloured ribband, as the symbol of Liberty. Through all the provinces I observed a general fermentation among the people ; but Paris was the focus whence emanated all the rays of enthusiasm to the most distant parts of the empire.

The Palais Royal was the general rendezvous of the conspirators, of whom its proprietor was the chief. Here was laid the plan, and the hour fixed, for an insurrection which was to be regulated by a signal from the Waterworks. In every part of the garden were groups of men, each group, or separate body, had their particular orator, thundering forth downfall and destruction to royalty.

This may be justly termed the volcano, from whose baneful crater issued all the lava that desolated the finest provinces in France ; and might with equal justice be called the Academy of Sedition and Irreligion, where pupils were taught to deny their God and disobey their king.

Any person resolute enough to combat these doctrines was sure of meeting with the grossest insults, and may think himself peculiarly fortunate if he escaped with life.

Chairs, tables and stools were converted into rostrums from whence the Apostles of Sedition harangued their tumultuous auditors : and here I cannot help expressing my astonishment, that in such a nation as France then was, a few thousands of incendiaries should be permitted thus to deliberate on the subversion of the existing government, and meditate the destruction of all those who were inimical to their system.

My heart was wrung on beholding in the Thuilleries the illustrious but unfortunate Royal family, who were doomed soon to be the victims of this popular effervescence.

When the most renowned monarch that ever governed France erected that edifice, he little imagined that it should one day become the prison of the best and mildest of his descendants, and that its doors should be guarded by a band of miscreants many of whom had tasted largely of the bounty of their august prisoners.

I often attended the sittings of the National Convention, where I could discover nothing of that sober dignity that might be expected from the representatives of a great nation. On the contrary the most violent and sanguinary measures were proposed and heard with rapture ; and the promoter of these measures applauded as one of the best and wisest legislators.

Mirabeau and the Abbé Maury were the two great political combatants on this prize-fighting stage. A French writer very justly remarks on the former " that he was more famous than celebrated, more original than eloquent, and equally actuated by avarice and ambition." Totally lost to a sense of morality, he wanted even that suavity of manners which might give a sort of gloss to his vices ; and throughout his whole conduct manifested a degree of savage fierceness and audacity never known in any character before him.

He generally had the majority on his side, as the violence of his doctrine was well adapted to the character of his auditors, mostly composed of the Orleans faction.

But the Club of the Jacobins was the place where the whole contents of Pandora's Box seemed concentrated. Here the goddess of Liberty presided-not the mild beneficent deity, under whose protecting arm and salutary influence are experienced all those blessings and rational enjoyments, which man can reasonably expect or wish for in a state of civil society-but a strumpet assuming her name, and glorying in her attributes, in order to give a sanction to her votaries for pillage, massacre and every species of atrocity without control.

It is impossible to conceive an institution more affictive or more disgraceful to human nature than that which had acquired for its title the Jacobin Club. An assemblage of worthless wretches, who acknowledged no God but Voltaire; no religious code but that of the visionary Rousseau ; no system of morality but that of the apostate Raynal, nor political jurisdiction but that of an assassin.

With these principles, they made, and are still making war against all regular governments, and proscribing without scruple all who are eminent for probity, virtue or talents.

That such a mass of corruption should have been able to erect itself, without control, into a supreme tribunal within the metropolis of a vast empire ; that its members should have established societies of their own order, in almost all the large cities of Europe, organized bands of robbers, prisoners and assassins, and shaken the thrones of sovereigns to their very foundations ; that they should have murdered their own King, his Royal Consort and sister, and poisoned the young and innocent offspring of sixty-six kings; in fine, [that] they should have been tamely suffered to imprison, banish, pillage and massacre all those who dared to oppose them, can only be accounted for by supposing the most extraordinary resignation on the one hand, and the most unparalleled audacity on the other.

In this pandemonium I was desired to observe a little man about five feet high, whose very aspect bespoke him. the arch-fiend of the diabolic assembly-this Marat ! Before the Revolution, he had no other way of subsistence than that of vending herbs, which he affirmed to be the production of certain mountains in Switzerland and, according to his account, possessed, in the most eminent degree, all those sanative qualities ascribed to our modern patent medicines.⁹

This man certainly had a most daring mind, and an unblushing front. He was not to be disconcerted by rebuffs, or intimidated by danger: in the prosecution of his designs no compunctions of humanity ever obtruded themselves to impede his progress.

From this infernal mansion I was impatient to depart, and again to visit the haunts of men. I was soon introduced to a society of a very different stamp, where I met with agreeable women, good cheer and deep play. This was the " Pavillon d'Hanovre," built by Maréchal De Richelieu on his return from his campaigns in Germany. It was then occupied by the Viscount C-, whose vices and immorality were as conspicuous as his rank.

To this distinguished apostate I was introduced: and as he had previously received some information concerning me, he regulated his motions accordingly.

I was received with the highest degree of affability and respect, and as he spoke English tolerably well, we conversed for some time in that language; after which he introduced me to the ladies ; who were all expert at their trade, and perfect mistresses of the art of seduction. " Has milord been long in France ? " said one. " Does he propose to make any stay in it ? " says another. " It cannot be for the purpose of learning the language," observed a third, " as he already speaks it with greater purity than we do ourselves."

The men too, played off all the artillery of their wit and politeness. They were all soildisant men of fashion, and talked much of their influence at court: but I afterwards learned that they were a set of rascals, hired for the same purpose as the women.

The only victims present were a counsellor of the Parliament and myself, though the company consisted of at least thirty. The counsellor was, according to the phrase, entirely done up, having lost his whole fortune left him by his father, a fermier generale, which amounted to upwards of £300,000.

The dinner was served up with a display of profusion and elegance, while the lively conversation of the ladies gave the highest zest to our entertainment: for it must be granted, that the French ladies surpass those of any other nation in their agreeable manner of conversing and their lively turns of imagination; and in this opinion, I am convinced all my countrymen who have visited France will concur.

With the French, the manner is all in all; and provided a thing be done with a good grace, the merits of it form but a secondary consideration. A Frenchman offers you his house, his table, his horses, and even his wife ; and the last article is, perhaps, the only one he means you should accept.

In France fashion governs everything; and the spirit of intrigue prevails so much among them, that a man of the ton would be as much ashamed of even the appearance of an attachment to his wife, as if [he] were detected in any improper or dishonourable act. In other respects, the French character, unsophisticated by the " Rights of Man," is truly respectable. They are warm in friendship, brave, generous and loyal to excess.

The good cheer and conviviality that prevailed at the viscount's table was entirely to my taste. The first day I played but little : nor indeed was I much pressed or solicited : for as they saw that I nibbled at the bait, they entertained no doubt but that I would soon swallow the hook : nor were they deceived ; as in a few days after I returned to the lure and in two sittings they contrived to ease me of three thousand louis. This obliged me to pay another visit to Ireland in order to recruit my purse.

The evening before I quitted Paris, I was present at the return of the King, after having been stopped at Varennes, by the order of Romoeuf, son of Tenant [sic]¹⁰ to La Fayette and at that time his aide-de-camp.

Romoeuf on that day decided the fate of France ; and the emigrants in London had the mortification of seeing in that very city, for upwards of two years, the villain who had the audacity to arrest his king and lead him to prison, from whence he was never brought but to meet the regicide judges and ascend the scaffold.

When the King's flight was known at Paris, an universal consternation prevailed throughout the city. Each party was apprehensive of some ill consequences from the event ; though Garat in his Memoirs positively asserts that the whole was previously known, and either forwarded or connived at by all.

At three o'clock in the afternoon, I procured by the help of a few louis d'ors, a seat in a sort of theatre, built for the purpose at the Gate of the Thuilleries.

A general order was issued that a profound silence should be observed, and that no person, on any pretence, should take off his hat. The King's carriage was surrounded by National Guards, who formed an impenetrable mass against bands of assassins said to be employed by Orleans ; and his subsequent conduct proved that there was just ground for this conjecture.

La Fayette encouraged the mob in the grossest insults against the Royal family, and often repeated the order that no one should uncover. This, however, did not prevent me from lifting my hat as the King passed: for which I should have paid dearly were it not for one of the National Guards, who persuaded the sans culottes to do me no injury by assuring them I was a mad Irishman.¹¹

There were in the carriage with the Royal family two of the commissaries, Barnave and Petion. The latter had the Dauphin on his knee during the whole procession. La Tour Maubourg, the third commissary, was in another carriage. On the box of the King's coach were seated the two Gardes du Corps, young men of family and fortune. They had their hands tied like the vilest criminal, and their faces exposed to the scorching sun, encountering wherever they turned their eyes, the ferocious countenances of a set of miscreants who were ready to tear them piecemeal for their attachment and fidelity to the best of Kings.

One of these Gardes, as avant coureur, had got some miles beyond Varennes when he heard [of] the King's arrest ; and though he might have made his escape, yet he could not for a moment entertain the idea of abandoning his Royal master. His name was Vallory, and I feel much pleasure in having it in my power to rescue from oblivion this act of generous loyalty in this young man.

The King's return restored a temporary tranquillity to the metropolis ; and I gladly availed myself of this calm, to demand my passport, which was immediately granted.

In a short time after my arrival in Dublin I sold an estate which produced me twenty-five thousand pounds; and having paid some debts and made a few necessary purchases, I returned to Paris with fourteen thousand pounds in my pocket.

I found this city in a state of greater tumult than when I left it. The hirelings of faction grew every day bolder and less restrained in their insults to the King. It was at this time a horde of regicides, headed by St. Huruge and Barras, broke into the palace, and though they did not effect the horrid purpose for which there is every reason to believe they were employed, yet every outrage, short of murder, was committed against this unfortunate family.

I shall not attempt to describe the heartrending scene to which I myself was an eye-witness ; nor would any language express the different sensations which alternately took possession of my soul. Pity, rage, and loyalty forced from me a torrent of tears, which a regard to selfpreservation should have induced me [to] suppress.

I beheld the unfortunate King full of mildness and majesty, pitying and still loving his deluded subjects. He was obliged to drink the health of those who sought his blood, assassinated his amiable family, overturned his throne, and deluged his fair kingdom with the blood of its most noble inhabitants.

At length Petion, the Mayor of Paris, arrived, and having harangued these brave citizens and applauded their conduct, he had sufficient influence over them to persuade them immediately to retire. Nor is this to be wondered at, as he was the very person who had planned the proceedings of that memorable day. But what renders this man's character odious in the highest degree is, that a few days before the tumult he had a conference with the King, and received a large sum of money to induce him to use his influence and authority in preventing any outrage that may be attempted against the Royal family.

The next day I observed, in a printshop, a caricature representing the Duke of Orleans playing at picquet with the King. The Duke wore the bonnet rouge, and the King appeared endeavouring to prevent his crown from falling off his head. A label from the King's mouth contained these words. " I have discarded the Hearts: He has all the Spades"-in French, "Piques," which means both " Spades " at cards and " Pikes " as a weapon -" I've lost the Game."

While I was reflecting on this severe sarcasm, I recognized a person whom I had often seen at Marseilles and London. He once possessed a very considerable fortune, which in early youth he squandered, and was now reduced to the necessity of living on the fruits of an experience dearly bought; of which he so well availed himself that he supported the appearance and, what is much more extraordinary, the character of a gentleman; having never been known, by any voluntary act, to incur the imputation of meanness or dishonesty. In the course of my acquaintance with him, I had many opportunities of proving the sincerity of his friendship and the strictness of his principles as a man of true honour and integrity.

His knowledge of mankind was extensive: and as he was admitted into all societies, he was equally conversant in the tricks and frauds practised by adventurers both in high and low life.

After some general conversation, he asked how long I had been at Paris. Upon which I told him I was just returned from Dublin, and related to him the cause of my journey. "It was very unlucky," said he, "that I happened not [to] be in Paris at the time, or I might have prevented your falling into the hands of the Philistines : but," continued he, " pardon me the expression, you seem born to be continually a dupe-I shall prove it to you whenever you please-and it is vain to contend with fate."

"That may very well be," replied I, "but at all events come and breakfast with me to-morrow morning." We parted for the present, and in the morning my friend was announced before I was out of bed.

After breakfast the subject of our conversation the preceding day was resumed, and I detailed to him the several severe losses I had sustained at the Pavilion of Hanover.

"My dear W-" he exclaimed "it is astonishing that you are yet to learn that within these ten years the practice of knavery has been reduced into a regular science. That it has infected all societies and that you cannot go into any house of high or low degree without meeting with swarms of adventurers, whose whole study, day and night, is how they may plunder their neighbours with impunity. I know them all by their names, titles and degree of proficiency. I may easily guard you against their different modes of deception. You must consider that in Paris you cannot find deep play, unless, it be at a very great disadvantage.

"The games which are generally introduced in polite circles are pharo and rouge et noir, at which the holders of the bank have so great an advantage that it is impossible but a punter must be a loser in the course of a month, let him play with ever so much caution and even apparent success."

" If that be the case," then said i, "tis astonishing that there are so many players at a game, so decidedly against them."

" You are to consider," replied my friend, " that it is not every person who can command a sufficient capital to set up a bank ; and many who can are deterred by the greatness of the stake, as it requires no less than five or six thousand pounds, not considering that they lose little by little, as punters, what would be sufficient to establish a bank.

" Besides, there are various motives and many inducements to gaming. Some enter into it from a natural inclination, without once considering whether the chances are for or against them. Others out of indolence, not knowing how else to employ their time, and many whose affairs are deranged or fortunes ruined, hope by some lucky run to retrieve their affairs. You will likewise find great numbers who frequent these places merely for the good cheer that is to be found in them; though they might regale themselves on much more reasonable terms at any tavern in town.-All these can only be punters.

" The ostensible holders of the bank are generally low fellows ; gamblers by profession and adepts in their art. They are of obscure family, and most of them have obtained by swindling the very capital which constitutes their sole establishment.

"With these swindlers people of property have of late years associated themselves, thinking it an excellent method to let their money out to advantage."

" You seem," said I, " to have a complete knowledge of the business ; but if the advantage be so great, why do not you yourself hold a bank?"

"For a very good reason, the want of means," answered he. I told him that I had a capital more than sufficient for the purpose, and that I would readily embark in it, if I thought it would succeed. He said he would answer for the success : but that it would be necessary, in case of such an establishment, to have a confidential person whose business it would be to watch with the strictest attention over those who deal and play. " For you must know," continued he, " that it is not here as in London, where people of rank and character undertake that office.

" In Paris, a gentleman would think himself disgraced by such an employment. The bank holders are therefore under the necessity of employing poor wretches for this purpose, who are paid a couple of Louis a night for their trouble : and as they are fellows devoid of the principles of honour and integrity they are often bribed by sharpers to cheat their employers. But if you be determined to put your design into execution, I shall take care to guard against them, as I am perfectly well acquainted with all their tricks.

" The ancient chancellerie of the Duke of Orleans is now to be let ; a most commodious situation for our purpose ; and you will find there an excellent cook, a character of no small importance in our household ; for the votaries in these temples pay the most devout homage to those altars where the richest morceaux and the most delicate viands abound."

After this disquisition I gave him unlimited powers to arrange every thing relative to the business, and assured him that the money should be forthcoming when required.

Thus empowered my friend set to work, and in a few days we made every necessary arrangement and opened shop : nor were we long without customers; to the increase and continuance of which the skill of our cook contributed not a little.

I received, for two months, the genteelest and most numerous company ever met with in Paris on such occasions, and gained by this speculation about fifty thousand pounds,¹² part of which was expended in entertainments.

Footnotes

1 Mount Taygetos.
2 See Appendix. Route.
3£25,000. MS. No. 2.
4 £17,000. MS. No. 2.
5 ? Cumberland. MS. (No. 2) reads " G-" which possibly may stand for Gloucester.
6 Sir Chas. Bunbury, Bart., one of the Stewards of the Jockey Club, the same who with Ralph Dutton and Thomas Panton conducted the famous investigation in reference to the suspicious running of H.R.H.'s Escape at Newmarket on two consecutive days in October 1791. - See Huish, Memoirs of George IV
7 Charles James Fox. Amongst other well - known gamesters for whom gambling provided an introduction to the Statesman was the famous Casanova, whose life and general tastes bore a strong resemblance to those of Thomas Whaley.
8 Duke of York.
9 Marat's diploma of Doctor of Medicine was conferred by the University of St. Andrews, Scotland, in 1775. The document is set out in full by his latest apologist, Mr. E. Belfort Bax, at p. 61 of Sean Paul Marat, The People's Friend, ed. 1901 Before going to Scotland, Marat seems to have resided in Dublin for a year. Ibid. p. 25.
10 ? sub-lieutenant.
11 Mad man. MS. No. 2.
12 Altered from fifty to fifteen in MS. No. 2.