[From Buck Whaley's Memoirs]

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from Acre-Cyprus-Its General History-Character of its present Inhabitants, etc.

IMMEDIATELY on our return to Acre, I told the captain that I was ready to go on board, and accordingly, on the day following, we set sail with a fair wind, and bid an eternal adieu to Palestine, highly gratified with the idea of having seen a country so eminently distinguished above all others for memorable and truly interesting events. But the wind soon changing, with every appearance of an impending storm, I persuaded the captain to put in at the island of Cyprus, where according to Anacreontic writers, Venus took refuge, and surrounded by the Zephyrs and Graces kept her court.

This island is about one hundred and fifty miles in length by sixty-six in breadth, lying in 35 degrees of north latitude. It is forty-one leagues from the coast of Syria, and next to Sicily is the largest island of the Mediterranean. It is of a triangular shape ; has several capes and promontories ; few, if any good harbours ; but very good anchorage, particularly in the bay of Sharnaca ¹ [sic], where we landed at a small neat village of the same name, and were conducted by my faithful Pauolo to the country-house of Mr. D-² the British Consul. His villa is at some distance from the town, delightfully situated. The house is one of the best I have seen in Asia, and is shaded by a profusion of cedars and myrtles, which seem to vie with each other for beauty and supereminence.

Mr. D-³, who holds the office of Consul at Acre and Aleppo as well as in this island, was at this time from home, having set out a few days before our arrival to settle some business of importance at Aleppo where he mostly resides ; though, not from choice, as I have been told, but because the duties of his office require his presence more at Aleppo than at either of the two other places. He has a deputy, or vice-consul at Acre, as well as in this island, from whom we received every mark of politeness and generous hospitality. We dined at Mr. D--'s and spent the evening very pleasantly, in the company of some agreeable Cypriotes, whom the viceconsul, to contribute as much as possible to our entertainment, had invited. One of these ladies gave me a letter to a female friend of hers, resident at Nicosi,⁴ the capital of the [island], of whose hospitality I shall speak hereafter The town of Sharnaca [sic] lies low, and in the summer months is one of the most unhealthy parts of the island. The town itself is neatly built and the streets are clean and well paved. In its vicinity there are some ruins, of which the foundations only are worth notice. These extend in large caverns under the town ; but what the building was originally I could not learn ; and must therefore trust to my own observations, which lead me to suppose that it was once a castle of great extent and strength.

Early the next day we hired mules and guides, and set out to visit the remains of the temple of Apollo, situated near the village of Piscopi,⁵ where there are some ruins to be seen, and the country for many miles round presents every appearance of fertility and cultivation. The sacred wood, which we are told was dedicated to Apollo, appears to have been metamorphosed into a beautiful plain.

We spent the day at this village and were tolerably well entertained at the house of a Greek priest to whom Pauolo had got letters of recommendation. He gave us some rare wine, which he averred was one hundred years in his family.

Having now seen as much of the temple of Apollo, as deserved the attention of a philosophic traveller, and converted the temple of the Greek priest into that of Bacchus, we mounted our mules and proceeded on our journey at nine o'clock the next day, intending to visit the temple of Venus, situated twenty miles to the westward of the village of Piscopi.

The day being uncommonly hot we did not arrive here till noon. The ruins of this temple may be justly considered as monuments of its ancient splendour. They are of vast extent, and for many miles round there are columns of exquisite workmanship, and fragments of capitals lying promiscuously.

At six o'clock we left the temple of Venus, and proceeded along the banks of a beautiful rivulet, on each side of which we observed herds of goats browsing on the arbutus and other flowering shrubs. At nine o'clock we entered the village [of] Achicis,⁶ where we took up our lodging for the night. It is situated on the river Muosi [?], and consists of only a few straggling houses, inhabited by wretches whose appearance bespoke their poverty and inattention to cleanliness. Here, after much importuning we procured some rice and goat's milk, on which having supped, we lay down on some clean straw, and, being fatigued with travelling and the excessive heat of the day, we enjoyed, under the roof of this homely cot that soft refreshing repose so often denied to those who sleep on beds of the softest down.

Before we set out this morning for Nicosi, the capital of the island, we were informed that it would be absolutely necessary to provide ourselves with provisions for this day's ride, as no refreshment of any kind could be had on the way. We therefore dispatched our trusty Pauolo, who seldom or never failed in any expedition ; and my friend and I went to a cellar at some distance from our hotel, to purchase some Falernian. At our return we found Pauolo very busy, roasting a turkey and a couple of brace of partridges ; which when fit, were carefully packed up with our wine ; and having made a hearty breakfast on some coffee and eggs, we mounted our mules and proceeded on our journey towards Nicosi distant about seven leagues from this village.

We stopped at a place called Tritmetusa,⁷ which is about midway between Nicosi and Achici, and having refreshed ourselves and mules, we proceeded on our way, and at nine o'clock arrived at the capital.

I had almost forgotten to mention a circumstance that occurred in our journey this day, which, had we time to delay on the road, we might have turned to some advantage.

At the little village of Patarsa, through which we were about to pass without stopping, Pauolo was accosted by a tall elderly woman, who inquired of him who we were; and being informed that we were Englishmen, just returning from the holy Sepulchre, sheimmediately deemed us proper persons for her purpose ; and having next inquired if any of us understood physic and being answered in the affirmative she earnestly entreated us to accompany her to her house, to see her daughter who lay sick of a fever. Pauolo instantly took the alarm, and with evident marks of solicitude and serious apprehensions, entreated me not to go with her, swearing that nothing less dreadful than my taking the plague would be the consequence. But all entreaties and remonstrances were in vain. I had now been nine months in Turkey and had learned to think of infection with as much indifference as the best Mussulman ; and having about me some papers of James's Powders, I resolved to try their efficacy in this case ; therefore desired the woman to conduct me to her dwelling. I found the child's pulse very high, and immediately ordered her half a paper. She appeared to be about twelve years old, and was attended by all the young persons of her own sex in the village. I gave directions that this dose should be repeated, if in the course of an hour some change for the better did not appear ; and leaving a few papers with proper directions, I took my leave, and felt myself amply recompensed for this act of humanity by the grateful acknowledgments of the afflicted mother, and the prayers of those lovely innocent attendants, who surrounded the bed of the little sufferer, and seemed to consider me as the restorer of their dear companion. But in passing through the village, I found that we had not only acquired the character of men skilled in physic but also that of magicians.

We travelled for the last six miles along the banks of the Pedicus, where we met plenty of all sorts of game, particularly the red partridge, and bevies of quails. In this day's ride we also observed many eagles and vultures, very tame and daring. I fired several shots at them ; and though within the common distance of a gun-shot, did not kill any, owing, I suppose, to the smallness of the shot.

Near the village of Scurlo are still to be seen the remains of an arch, said to have been raised to Alexander the Great, near to which are several broken pillars, on some of which hieroglyphics are still discernible. From all that fell under my observations in examining these monuments it appeared to me that the Corinthian order prevailed throughout.

On our arrival at Nicosi, we found ourselves so much fatigued that we held a council, whether we should dress or go to bed : in the meantime I sent Pauolo to inquire for the lady to whom I had got a letter of introduction from my fair friend at Sharnaca⁸ I was informed that her residence was almost a league distant from the town. But in a short time, I saw, to my great surprise, this fair incognita, accompanied by several ladies and gentlemen, conducted by Pauolo to our hotel. This unexpected visit threw my friend and me into the greatest confusion; which was not much lessened, when madame, for whom I had the letter, expressed her regret that we should stop at a miserable gargette, as she called it, insisting at the same time that we should immediately accompany her to her brother's. As we saw, with extreme concern, that we had already given offence by setting up at this coffeehouse, we at once determined, half-dressed as we were, to make some atonement by our prompt obedience to her commands.

On our way to this lady's brother, she addressed herself to Pauolo in Greek, and endeavoured to learn from him the particulars of my history ; in the detail of which, as he afterwards informed me, he made her believe that I was son to the King of Ireland.

After a quarter of an hour's walk we passed the eastern extremity of the town, and soon after arrived at the residence of Madam E--'s brother, to whom she most graciously introduced us.

This gentleman appeared to be about 35 years of age, and had, according to his own account, seen more of the eastern world than any of his contemporaries. His principal residence was at Aleppo, and he came here in the summer months for his recreation, when he made liberal offerings at the shrine of Venus.

His adventures were much of a piece with those of Sinbad, in the Arabian Nights : one time the persecuted victim of divine wrath ; at another the distinguished favourite of a most benign Providence.

He had been taken in the early part of his life by a tribe of wandering Arabs, who defeated a caravan, to which he belonged, on their route from Aleppo to Damascus. Every soul was put to the sword, except himself ; and he was spared merely on account of his personal beauty : and indeed it must be owned that in this respect he seemed the distinguished favourite of nature ; so that he might be justly styled the Adonis of the island.

He made his escape from these Arabs and got safe to Tripoli, where he embarked on board a Venetian ship, bound for Cyprus : but unfortunately falling in with an Algerine corsair, he with the rest of the crew were carried into slavery. Shortly after he was sold to the Dey of Tunis, and during a captivity of six years encountered such a variety of dangers and difficulties as perhaps never fell to the lot of any man before him : and in addition to his wayward fate, that beauty, which was once the means of saving his life, now served only to increase the dangers of his hopeless situation. At length, having disguised himself in female attire, after many adventures he escaped to St. John of Acre, where he again embarked on board a Venetian ship bound for Scandaroon,⁹ from whence he got safe back to Aleppo.

This gentleman, in addition to the beauty of his person, possessed, in an eminent degree, those mental accomplishments which distinguish the philosopher and the man of refined taste. His sister was also very handsome ; had a charming voice, which she had the complacency to exert, for our entertainment, in several fine Italian and Persian airs, whilst her brother accompanied her with the German flute, or guitar, both of which he played admirably well.

After supper, which was very sumptuous, we walked in the garden till midnight. It contained upwards of ten acres, planted with fruit-trees of every kind ; the mulberry, the pomegranate, the date and the orange ; all in full blow.

This delightful garden was laid out with great taste. The walks were spacious and tiled in the neatest manner. The mulberry trees planted on each side and kept closely clipt, formed a shade impenetrable even to the rays of the meridian sun.

Our party consisted of half a dozen, of both sexes. Singing, dancing and playing at hide and seek, with a variety of other childish amusements, beguiled the hours till past midnight, when our admirable hostess proposed that we should return to the saloon and take some refreshment, before we retired for the night. The company obeyed, I believe, with reluctance. For my own part, I was so delighted with our garden scene, that no change could afford me a higher gratification.

Soon after twelve we were all in the saloon ; and having taken coffee and sweetmeats, every one retired to his apartment for the night.

I found myself little disposed to rest, and therefore having waited impatiently for the morning, I eagerly returned to the garden, where I met my charming E-. Once more I was entertained with her captivating voice, which she accompanied with her mandoline. But, at nine, our tête a tete was interrupted by the appearance of the rest of the company, who now assembled to breakfast in the garden, and propose some new entertainment for the day.

The scenes of the preceding day and night furnished abundant matter for conversation during breakfast, which consisted of a cold collation of meats and game; among the latter was the beta tigue,¹⁰ which is reckoned the greatest delicacy : fruits of all kinds were likewise served up.

It appeared to me that the company at this early hour were more inclined to drink than to eat ; and for the first time I saw wine supply the place of tea. It was the best I drank in the island, and with respect to age exceeded that of the priest of Piscopi's by one hundred years. After such a breakfast, 'tis natural to suppose our spirits were equal to any enterprise, and our generous host, finding we were fond of the chase, proposed that of the wild boar : but the ladies appearing terrified and disappointed at the idea of this kind of sport, it was at once given up, and the greyhound, pointers and guns were unanimously preferred.

At ten o'clock we sallied forth, and the ladies, notwithstanding the heat of the day, partook of our sport, which ended about twelve o'clock : and short as the time may appear, to a keen or sanguinary sportsman, he must indeed carry his ideas of sporting or destroying game to a most unreasonable degree if he should notbe satisfied with the spoils which each of us brought from the field.

Before I take my leave of Nicosi, I think it necessary to say something of its situation, strength and extent. It appears, from the most authentic records, that it has always been the capital of this island : and at so early a `' period as 420 years before Christ was deemed a place of considerable strength. It is situated near the river Pedicus,¹¹ and commands an extensive prospect over a rich and fertile country. It is surrounded with a strong wall and a deep trench, and had, formerly, several towers, of which four only are now standing ; and even these are bordering on ruin. It is said to have once contained 50,000 inhabitants; but at present its population falls very short of that number. The best wine is made here, of which the inhabitants drink very freely.

There is a small convent in the town, which for some years past has not been inhabited. The people are mostly employed in rolling silk, of which there is here great abundance, so that large quantities of the raw material are sent to the markets of Smyrna and Aleppo. The women in this part of the island are remarkable for their beauty and voluptuousness: they generally marry at the age of thirteen or fourteen, and scarcely retain any vestige of their beauty after thirty. Having arrived at that period, they no longer play the coquet ; but endeavour to become the accomplished matron, and by their exemplary conduct to render themselves useful to their juvenile friends.

Having now made our little arrangements, we took leave of our hospitable and truly amiable friends with much regret ; and at six in the evening set out on our journey towards Famagousta. The air was still warm to a degree that induced both lassitude and languor; and we were much annoyed by the mosquitoes. For two hours we continued our ride along the banks of the Pedicus, and then crossed it. The country on both sides of this river appeared to be cultivated with much judgment ; and, as far as the naked eye could see, abounded mostly with indian corn. The mulberry tree is cultivated with the utmost care, for on its leaves are fed the silk-worms, the principal source of the wealth of the island at the present day.

At half-past nine o'clock we arrived at a small neat village, situated on the banks of a lake where, I was told, salt was found in great abundance. We had procured a letter to a Greek, who possessed this branch of commerce at a certain rent: he received us with marks of politeness and friendship; and it is but barely doing him justice to say, that in point of hospitality he seemed to possess the soul of a true Hibernian. After a good substantial supper, and a copious libation to the rosy god, we reeled to bed, and slept till eight the next morning.

Finding now that the day was too far advanced for us to make any progress in our journey before the meridian heat came on, we accepted the kind invitation of our generous host to dine with him, and in the cool of the evening to proceed towards the town of Famagousta. It was likewise necessary to send a messenger to acquaint the Governor of our intention of paying him a visit, and to provide ourselves with a firman for that purpose; as strangers, particularly if they be Christians, are not permitted to enter the town without the imperial passport.

At three o'clock p.m. we took leave of our Greek friend and set out, accompanied by his nephew. In our way we saw the ruins of a town said to have been built by Pompey. We observed this evening a great number of serpents of the green spotted kind, and many large lizards running among the grass.

At five o'clock we found ourselves again on the banks of the Pedicus, along which we pursued our road, for several miles, and discovered many superb remains of antiquity. In this neighbourhood our young guide shewed us the temple of Adonis ; of whose ancient grandeur and magnificence there is still remaining enough to excite the traveller's admiration.

There are vast subterraneous caverns here, which we did not enter on account of the air, at the very entrance, being extremely fetid, and we also had every reason to apprehend that they were infested with noxious animals. In many places I observed scattered among these ruins, blocks of verde antique and pillars of granite and porphyry, mingling with common rubbish.

A thought instantly came into my mind, of applying to the Governor for leave to take some of these inestimable remains to Europe: but in this I failed, as will appear hereafter.

I should willingly have remained here the rest of the day ; but was told by our young companion that it was time to pursue our journey. I followed his advice without inquiring his reasons; and at 10 o'clock we arrived at the small bourg called Trapesa, where we delivered our letter, and were tolerably well accommodated for the night in this village, which is about two miles distant from Famagousta. My firman was entrusted to the care of Pauolo, who set off with it at daybreak, to demand permission from the Governor, under its authority, to enter the town and pay our respects to his excellency.

He was kept waiting so long at the gates that I began to grow impatient and uneasy about him : but at length he returned with a favourable answer, and we immediately proceeded towards the town.

We were met at the outer gate by some soldiers on horseback, who insisted on our mules being left outside the town; and that we should also leave our boots behind.

On hearing this injunction a violent dispute arose between Pauolo and one of the soldiers, which probably would have ended very seriously, had I not prevailed on one of these Janissaries, by means of a small bribe, to go to the Governor for instructions, and this I did merely to satisfy Pauolo ; as it really was a matter of indifference to me whether I walked into town in slippers, or made my entrance, in the equestrian style, with my red boots.

The Janissary returned soon after accompanied by the Governor's dragoman, who was instructed to grant us the indulgence of making our appearance in boots, leaving our mules and baggage behind, which he promised should be immediately brought after us: to this we readily complied; and soon after were introduced to the Governor ; to whom I delivered my credentials, and was most graciously received and hospitably entertained in his palace.

Our dinner was sumptuous in the highest degree, and for variety and number of dishes far exceeded anything of the kind I had ever seen before : and to complete our felicity, we had the peculiar honour of the Governor's company at this splendid entertainment - a singular instance of hospitality and condenscension from a proud Turk !

The Turks, as I have already observed, never use a fork : the Governor, therefore, laughed heartily on seeing our method of eating : while we inwardly reprobated his disgusting practice of every moment putting his hand into the dish ; thence to his mouth until he was satisfied. There is a rule strictly observed by these people, which is that the cook, at every entertainment, is ordered to taste of every dish, in the presence of the company, in order to satisfy the guests that they may eat of any with safety. Sherbet was the only beverage used at this entertainment; nor did I observe any of the Turks drink of any kind of liquid till they had finished their repast.

The entertainment being now at an end, ablutions were again repeated, and after a short prayer the meeting broke up.

I made this worthy Governor many presents, which he received with the most [sic] acknowledgments : and in return gave me a curious bow, with some poisoned arrows.

In the evening we went, accompanied by the dragoman, to the most curious places in the town: but we soon found it necessary to return to the palace and provide ourselves with an escort of soldiers to protect us from violence or insult, as the boys had already begun to pelt us with stones; which coming to the Governor's ears, he was filled with indignation, and vowed that the first who would attempt to interrupt or offer us the least injury should be instantly strangled. This denunciation had the desired effect ; for, during three days residence in this town, we met with no molestation or insult whatever. The Town of Famagousta is situated on the east of the island, between the capes of St. Andrew and Greek Cape, and is pretty much in the form of an irregular square. Its walls are washed by the sea, and it was formerly a place of great strength, having stood many desperate sieges in the time of the Crusades, when it was defended by the Christians against the Turks. It is surrounded by a deep ditch, of very great breadth, which can be occasionally filled with water. Its walls are, at present, in a very ruinous state. It had once thirteen towers and a bastion, built by Henry,¹² in the year 1293 : since which time it has been well fortified by the Venetians, who built another bastion on the northern side ; but since it fell into the hands of the Turks, its fortifications have been entirely neglected.

This town took its name from the famous battle of Actium, where Augustus Caesar triumphed over Mark Antony and Cleopatra ; though it is probable the name has been corrupted by the Greeks. It was originally Fama-augusta, afterwards Famagousta, and latterly Amoskousta, which signifies " buried in sand," as the town from its situation really appears to be.

The harbour, which is about a mile in circumference, is the best in the island. Vessels may ride there in perfect safety, let the wind blow from [what] quarter it will. The entrance, however, is both narrow and shallow; so that none but small vessels can enter it without much difficulty. An iron chain across the entrance and a tower, on which are mounted some pieces of ordnance, are at present its only defence.

About the year 1160 [? 1191 ], Richard Coeur de Lion, returning from Palestine after the Crusades, was overtaken by a violent storm and his fleet dispersed. One of his ships and two galleys were wrecked on the western coast of this island. Richard, however, with the principal part of his fleet, had the good fortune to make the harbour of Rhodes, where he learned that those ships which were driven on shore in the island, were seized and his people barbarously murdered by order of Isaac Courmene,¹³ nephew to the Emperor of that name, who sent him to take charge of the government ; against whom Isaac rebelled, and usurped the government of the island.

Richard also learned, with indignation, that Isaac had the barbarity even to refuse his sister Jane, wife to the king of Sicily, leave to land on his coast in the midst of the tempest ; and accordingly having refitted his fleet he sailed from Rhodes, fully determined to land in Cyprus and severely punish Isaac for his cruel barbarity.

His descent was opposed with vigour, and many lives were lost on the occasion, but after many obstinate battles he effected a landing and took this inhuman and perfidious Greek prisoner, whom he loaded with chains; and although historians affirm these chains were of gold, yet they were not the less galling.

Richard having now made himself master of the island, had himself crowned king of Cyprus ; and thus this island, after having remained a duchy for many ages under the Greek emperors, was now changed into a kingdom.

The next thing done by this monarch, was to appoint a nobleman of the name of Robert Truhare [? de Torneham] his vice-roy : and having put the island in a state of defence, he sailed from Lernacha¹⁴ to fulfil a vow he had made to assist Philip of France in his wars against the Turks. He therefore repaired to join this Prince at Ptolomaise,¹⁵ which town Philip was then besieging. Richard arrived before this place, loaded with the glory of conquest and the treasures of Cyprus. Ancient writers mention this island under a variety of names, owing, I suppose, to its having fallen under the dominion of so many different nations, attracted by the mildness of the climate, the fertility of the soil, and, above all, by the advantages of its situation, which renders it the centre of communication and commerce between Asia Minor, Syria, Phenicia, and Egypt.

The whole island may be very properly divided into three distinct parts, differing in outward appearance and in the quality of the soil. The first is composed of high mountains, running from Cape St. Andrew, at the east, to Cape Cormachiti in the west, being for the most part covered with wood.

The second manifests itself in fertile hills and delightful vallies, at the foot of these mountains, watered with rivulets and four rivers which take their source from Mount Olympus.

The third part of the island is a vast, beautiful plain, extending from the south-east to the north-west of the island ; and is about sixteen leagues in length, and in many places from eight to ten in breadth. This plain has, from its richness and fertility, acquired the appellation of Messaire or Egypt. It produces corn, cotton, and the most nutritive vegetables of every kind, in abundance; as also silk.

Formerly there were fifteen large cities, besides several villages in this island ; of which nine cities were the capitals of as many distinct kingdoms, each having a separate government from the other.

At the present day little more remains than the ruins of these cities ; whereof only a few deserve the notice of the traveller, as the towns of Nicost, which is the capital, in the centre of the island ; Famagousta on the banks of the Pedicus, opposite to Syria, which is built on the ruins of ancient Salamis or Ceraunia [? Constantia], on the northern side, and Paphos on the southern : the two last are very inconsiderable, and only remarkable for being at present the episcopal seats of the Greek Churches.

Besides these cities, there are also the ruins of many castles, which from their situation are almost inaccessible. The revolutions which have happened in this island, are indeed astonishing ; particularly since the time of Dion Cassius, who wrote the Life of the Emperor Trajan.

He tells us that at that time the Jews revolted against the Romans, and possessed themselves of the island, in the reign of this monarch ; and in the space of a few days massacred two hundred and forty thousand persons, in hopes of shaking off the Roman yoke. But Trajan made them pay dearly for this act of barbarity ; for having defeated their army in Syria, he sent one of his captains named Lucius into Cyprus, with a sufficient force to drive the Jews out of the island, and passed a decree that none of their race should ever after be allowed to settle in Cyprus : which decree was not only observed as long as the Romans possessed the island, but likewise by all those princes under whose dominion it has fallen: and even at this day it is observed under the Ottoman authority.

The mines of gold, copper etc., which, according to Strabo and other ancient writers, were formerly found in this island, are not now to be met with.

With respect to precious stones, which the same authors assert were also found here in abundance, the same [may be said as of their gold mines, etc. The only gem found at present in any part of the island is an inferior kind of onyx.

With respect to the salt of this island, from which such great revenues formerly arose, the same advantages may still be derived from it if duly attended to. It may be had in great quantities, at little expense, from a lake, situated near the sea, between the bourg of Lernacha, and Ptomolasa ¹⁶ This lake is about three leagues in circumference. It is a mixture of sea and rain-water, which being exposed to the influence of a very hot sun, a coherency of the salt particles is effected.

The sugar-cane was formerly planted in this island, but has been long discontinued ; and the cotton-tree and a mulberry are substituted: the latter furnishes food for the silk-worm, which is certainly preferable to the sugar-cane. The island also produces corn of every kind in abundance, of which great quantities are annually exported into Syria, Greece and all the islands.

The wine of Cyprus has been justly celebrated, both by ancient and modern writers. Solomon himself speaks particularly of it. This wine is in the highest perfection when it is an hundred years old ; and acquires, by this time, such smoothness and potency, as renders it a perfect cordial. It is even said to be an antidote against poison, and of wonderful efficacy in all nervous affections.

There is a custom, handed down from time immemorial, still kept up in Cyprus, according to which every bridegroom, on the night of his nuptials, is to fill a large jar of this wine and bury it under ground, where it is to remain till the joyful event of his first child's marriage : and this they very properly call vin de noce, the nuptial wine. As it often happens that the children die before the wished-for period, the wine thus buried has been often known to lie untouched for two or three generations, particularly in the wealthy families, who had no occasion to use it till the intended occasion offered. And by this means it was first discovered that Cyprus wine could not be too long kept.

When in the island, I purchased a ton of this vino del amore, which I was assured had been made thirty¹⁷ years. I carried it with me to Marseilles, and sent it from thence to England: and though I have some of it still by me, yet I could never prevail on myself to put it under ground.

The island produces two sorts of wine ; both in equal estimation, but one will not keep as long as the other that which so wonderfully improves by age is by much the dearest, and costs about two shillings a bottle on the spot.

The Egyptians have at all times given the preference to this wine: and even at the present day large quantities are annually exported to that country, which of itself does not produce wine of any kind.

The island of Cyprus is not less remarkable for its excellent olive oil ; besides rape oil, which, among the natives, is more in use than the former. This oil is certainly much better and less rancid than that made in Europe.

This island likewise produces honey of a superior quality : also saffron, capers, laudanum, mandrake, vermilion, and a great variety of aromatic and medicinal herbs.

The island is not so famous for its horses as its mules, which though not so large as those of Spain are, nevertheless, preferred, particularly on account of their gentleness and tractableness.

Every species of domestic fowl known in Europe may be met with here, and with respect to game, no island can surpass it. There are several small birds in very high estimation in this island, among which may be reckoned the ortolan and becque figue ; the latter is accounted the greatest delicacy both in the island and in all parts of Europe. They are preserved in Cyprus wine mixed with vinegar, and sent in great quantities to Venice, where they are in the highest estimation among the nobility.

The greyhounds of Cyprus are said to surpass in swiftness those of any other country : as to the truth of this assertion, I can only say, that at Nicosi I had an opportunity of seeing repeated trials of their agility and speed, and were I to form my judgment from the shortness of the time in which they ran down a hare, I must certainly decide in their favour. The cats of this island are very beautiful; and exceed in shape and size those of Angora. They have a peculiarity which is not to be found in any of the feline kind yet discovered, and that is their mortal hatred to serpents, which they destroy and persecute with the same degree of implacable fury and malignity which the whole race manifest towards rats and mice.

Camelions are to be met with in great numbers, in the mulberry gardens, and vineyards. I had one of these inoffensive animals for many months, and carried [it] to Marseilles in my bosom, which place it seldom left, except when provoked by injury, or pinched by hunger. Its passion, in either case, to which it is very subject, is always expressed by a change of colour ; and so quick is the succession of these changes, that one of those curious creatures will display no less than fifty different colours in the space of a few minutes. This I had many opportunities of observing, when I could not procure for my little favourite what he usually fed upon, namely flies. And again, after it had eaten a sufficiency, should I not immediately receive it into my bosom, its anger would instantly appear in the same variety of colours.

This little animal, notwithstanding all my care, died in the lazaretto whilst I performed quarantine at Marseilles.

The air, in some parts of this island, during the summer and part of the autumn, is rendered extremely unwholesome by the excessive heats which prevail at those seasons of the year. The grass is burnt up, and malignant fevers rage; particularly in the country around Lernacha and Famagousta. But all these inconveniences may be avoided by retiring at the approach of those baneful heats to the cantons of Soli, Nicosi, Lapatros, Carpasso, or Piscopi ; in all which places the air is found to be as temperate and salutary as in any part of France.

And bad as the air is in those maritime places I have mentioned, I think the inhabitants may in some measure prevent, or guard against its noxious influence, by building their dwelling-houses at least two stories high instead of one. This improvement would at least secure them from the incessant attacks of the mosquito and other troublesome insects, to which they are always exposed by lying on the ground.

It is asserted by most authors who have given, or attempted, a general history of this island, that it is watered only by the torrents caused by the heavy rains during the winter. But this is certainly a mistake, and shews that those writers were entirely unacquainted with the interior parts of the country. It must indeed be owned that the island cannot boast any large rivers ; but there are many pretty rivulets and streams that never dry up.

The only river that deserves the name of one is the Pedicus, which I have had occasion to mention before. This river divides into two considerable branches, traversing all the plains of Messaria, and passes through the town of Nicosi. It sometimes overflows, and in this case produces the same happy effects on its neighbouring plains that the river Nile does in Egypt.

There are also many springs of excellent water, and four or five rivulets gushing from Mount Olympus, and the neighbouring mountains. One of these waters the delightful country in the neighbourhood of Piscopi ; as also the lordship of Colossi, formerly the benefice belonging to the Knights Templars and Hospitallers, to whom this famous benefice was granted after the extinction of the former.

There is another beautiful spring of limpid water above the bourg Chitrie [? Citria]. This source, after furnishing sufficient water for thirty-six miles, serves the inhabitants of Palecitro to water a very great extent of gardens. Hence it must appear that the accounts of some authors, respecting a want of water in this island, are totally unfounded. It sometimes happens, as I was informed, that there is no fall of rain in any part of the island for three months together : to guard against this calamity, the islanders sink deep wells in proper places, and by means of machines made for the purpose, in imitation of the Egyptians, they supply themselves from these wells.

I have already observed that this island produces silk in abundance, which in the opinion of most silk buyers, has more substance in it than any that is to be met with in other countries, and is therefore preferred to all other, both in France and England, for particular uses, such as fringe, and in stuffs where embroidery is introduced.

Their cotton trade is not less important than their silk, and its superior quality is so well known that it always meets a preference in the European markets.

There are still many parts of the island in a state of nature, which produce olives in great abundance spontaneously. These uncultivated tracts are principally to be [found] in the cantons of Carpasso ; which from the fertility of the soil, if duly attended to, would yield an immense increase to the revenues of the island.

Cyprus is not the only country on this part of the globe where, from the want of inhabitants, the finest soil lies uncultivated. The greater part of the Ottoman empire appears in this primeval state ; as their population bears no proportion to their extent of territory.

The amazing fertility of this island, and the little labour and expense in procuring here not only the necessaries but also the luxuries of life in abundance, serves only to render the inhabitants sensual, indolent, and effeminate. Their whole time is devoted to adorning their persons, feasting, dancing and the like amusements.

The women are in general of the middle size, and much inferior to the English ladies in point of figure. Their complexion is rather dark ; but their fine expressive black eyes and good teeth make up, in a great measure, for the want of those beautiful tints of fair and red which characterise our British and Hibernian ladies. They are not only warm in their attachment, but violent to the greatest degree ; ever ready to make any sacrifice, or encounter any difficulty to promote and secure the happiness of the object of their choice : but let the happy man beware of betraying any appearance of coolness or indifference on his part ; and above all, let him take care how he ventures to withdraw himself from a Cypriete. [sic.]

The men are treacherous, and so cowardly and lost to a sense of honour that they will not dare to smell gunpowder, even in defence or vindication of the honour of a sister or a wife.

Before I take my final leave of this beautiful island, I shall take notice of the variety of names under which it has been known at different periods.

The Greeks call it " Kupros," as appears from the works of Homer and Hesiod, as well as many other poets. The name or epithet " Kypris " or " Koupris 91 given to Venus is, in the opinion of many writers a proof that she was first worshipped in this island. The Greeks have not agreed upon the origin of the word " Kupros " but they have endeavoured to remove the difficulty in their usual way, by supposing that a hero had given his name to the island. Others ascribe it to a plant which grows spontaneously in many parts of the island. This plant resembles the pomegranate in its branches and leaves, and flowers somewhat like the vine. Its blossoms have an odoriferous smell ; and, as Strabo relates, were much used for medicinal purposes by the physicians of his day.

The Turkish women, and some of the inhabitants of the islands of Chio and Patmos, stain their nails and hair with a juice extracted from this flower, or blossom, which is considered by them as a great beauty.

Having now made our little arrangements, we journied back with all possible expedition to Lernacha, where my ship was waiting to take me back to Europe. On our return to Lernacha, we immediately waited on our good friend the vice-consul, to whom we were indebted for the very favourable reception we met with at the different places we visited in our tour through this island, particularly at Nicosi ; and I was not a little surprised on receiving a letter from the truly amiable and charming Madame E., by the hands of her confidential friend, which breathed such warm professions of inviolable attachment, disinterested friendship and esteem, as would have induced any man but myself to settle for life in this paradisiacal island. But to the mind of a man, such as I then was, the slave of passion and the votary of licentiousness, such an idea would be no less horrible than that of self-destruction.

However, I said every thing that could tend to reconcile her to a temporary separation, as I termed it, assuring her that I was only going to pay my respects to Sir R. A.¹⁸ at Constantinople, and would return very shortly from thence to Cyprus.

Footnotes

1 ? Larnaca.
2 Mr. De Vezin.
3 De Vezin.
4 Nicosia.
5 I.e., Episcopi.
6 ? Akachi.
7 ? Trimithia.
8 See ante, p. 238.
9 Alexandretta : Turkish, lskenderum.
10 ? Becque figue, as post, p. 258.
11 The Pedius or Pediaeus.
12 Le. Henri IL, one of the Lusignan Kings of Cyprus.
13 Comnenus.
14 Larnaca.
15 Ptolemais.
16 ? Vromolaxi, or Dromolakxia.
17 Eighty years. MS. No. 2.
18 Sir Robt. Ainslie.