[From the Modern Universal British Traveller 1779 pp813-5]

[Quite from where many of the statements in this guide came from is a mystery, though I suspect some of Waldron's tales were the basis of some, the account by Bishop Wilson also appears to have been used. I suspect much of the text predates the 1765 Revestment, but was brought up to date by a few additions. The topology is somewhat askew]

Chap IV. The ISLE of MAN.

This island is about thirty miles long and ten broad, and is the seat of a bishop, though he does not sit as a lord in parliament. It was, with that of Anglesea in Wales (already described in our account of that principality) known to the Romans by the name of Mona, the Isle of Man being distinguished by the epithet Little, and Anglesea by that of Great.

The Isle of Man was undoubtedly first peopled either from Cumberland, or Galloway in Scotland, and possibly from both, before the arrival of the Romans. What use those conquerors made of it, or how far they subdued it, is not certainly known, only that when they left Britain, or at least soon after, we find it subject to the Galovidian Scots.

From this period, till about the tenth century, we learn but few particulars concerning it, except that the inhabitants were great pirates, and often committed robberies on the coasts of Britain and Ireland.

About that time a colony of Danes landed in the island, and either murdered or subdued the inhabitants; but they were in their turn conquered by the Norwegians. These placed a deputy in it, whose successors enjoyed the title of king till Magnus king of Norway ceded the whole to Alexander III. king of Scotland. In consequence of this grant Alexander took possession of it, drove out the king, and united it to the Scottish monarchy.

Among other conquests made by Edward I. during the long and bloody wars between him and the Scots, he took possession of this Island; but after the battle of Bunnockburn, the English were entirely routed. From that time till 1403 it was sometimes subject to England, and sometimes to Scotland; but Henry IV. having annexed it to his English dominions, made a grant of it to Sir John Stanley, ancestor to the earls of Derby.

It continued to be the property of the descendants of that family for many years. At length the first duke of Athol having married the heiress of the Derby family, both the title and property became his, and was enjoyed by his successors till 1765, when an act was passed, by which the sovereignty of it is vested in the crown of Great Britain, for which the duke of Athol received the sum of 70,000l. besides the patronage, and other profits.

SECT. I.

Natural History of the Isle of Man.

THE air of this Island is sharp and piercing, especially towards Ramsay, where they are exposed to the north winds ; but in the southern and eastern parts of the Island, it is not only mild, but also esteemed exceeding healthy, and many of the inhabitants live to a great age.

The soil is various, according to the different situations. In the northern parts it is rather dry and barren, though capable of improvement ; but towards the south, and in some parts of the east, it is well cultivated, and produces excellent crops of various kinds of grain.

The fields afford good pasturage for cattle and horses, of which they export a great number to the continent ; and they have a breed of sheep of a yellow, or rather buff colour, different from any others in the British dominions.

They take great pains in the cultivation of their gardens and orchards, which are so prolific, that prodigious quantities of fruits and vegetables are annually exported to various parts of Ireland.

There are several rivers in this Island, the principal of which are, the Clanmey, the Selby, the White Water, and the Laxey.

The Clanmey rises in the north-west part of the island, and running south-east, turns again to the west, and falls into the Irish sea near Peel,

The Selby rifes near the middle of the Island, and running south-east, falls into the sea near the town of Ramsay.

The White Water rises in the northern part of the Island, and running south, turns towards the east, and empties itself into the sea near Douglas Bay.

The Laxey rises from the marshy grounds near Snafield. Mountain, and after running south-east, falls into the sea near a town of the same name.

Besides these there are several smaller streams, but as they all fall into the before mentioned rivers, they do not admit of particular description.

In many parts of this Island are quarries of free-stone, but little use is made of it, except forming tomb-stones for the dead.

On the rocks resort great numbers of wild fowl, and many eagles build their nests on them. In former times the king of Man was obliged to present to the kings of Scotland or England, according as they were subject to either of those powers, an eagle and a couple of faulcons, on the day of their coronation.

With respect to the fishery, it has been carried on here, for some years past, to very great perfection; and so many herrings are caught and cured during the season, that it is supposed not less than 20,000 barrels are annually exported.

They have no particular manufatory here, but that deficiency is made up by their extensive commerce, for they have ships that trade not only to England, Scotland and Ireland, but also to many principal places on the continent of Europe.

Previous to the year 1765 they were so much addicted to smuggling, that the Island was a sort of magazine for run goods from every part of the known world ; but the whole being brought under the immediate inspection of the Britith government, and proper officers appointed to receive the revenues, those illicit practices are laid aside.

With respect to the manners of the people in this island, it is not to be wondered at if we find them, in many instances, greatly differ from those of the continent of Britain. They are neither so distinguished for an honest bluntness as the English; neither so hospitable as the Scotch, nor so affectedly civil as the lrish ; and yet they partake of the virtues and vices of all three. This may be easily accounted for, if we allow what has been asserted by some of the greatest men both in antient and modern times, namely, that every nation has some predominant Vice or virtue, which fixes its character in the most striking light, and distinguishes the people from the inhabitants of all other countries.

The thought itself is rather of a contracted nature, and is likely not to bear the test of philosophical enquiry ; but if we admit that the Island of Man has been peopled at different times from the various states of Europe, we need not wonder to find them different from those of any single nation. Their love of smuggling kept them long secluded from the people of the continent, by which they were led to contract such a rusticity of manners, that although neither ferocious nor deceitful, yet they are sullen, morose and selfish. They treat strangers with civility ; but not with that hospitality common with the Scotch, or the generosity natural to the English.

The established religion here is that of the church of England; but as the people have material connections with Ireland, there are amongst them some papists.

The government of this Island is very different at present to what it was formerly. Previous to its being vested in the crown, the government was lodged with the duke of Athol, the bishop, the archdeacon, two vicars who represented the clergy, the receiver-general, the comptroller, the water-bailiff, who superintends the harbours, the attorney-general, who stood up in defence of all the privileges of the lord or king, and twenty-four representatives of the people, called keys, because to them were committed the determination of all dificult questions relative to the rights of the people.

To this court were added two judges, chosen annually, called Deemsters, from a Saxon word, signifying judgment ; and they were to preside in their turns at all the meetings of the grand tribunal.

All laws relating to the immediate peace of the subjects, or the uninterrupted enjoyment of their property, were made by this assembly, and ratified by the Deemsters, who also had a negative vote in the assembly.

There were not any attornies known in the Island, and every person, whether man or woman, were obliged to plead their own cause before the Deemsters, who were also judges both in civil actions, and in cases of life or death.

When the Deemsters were chosen, the following singular oath was administered to them : "You shall do justice between man and man, as equally as the herring bone lies between the two sides.\u201d A widow had one half of her deceased husband's estate, if she was his first wife; and one fourth, if his second or third, &c. but if either married again, they were to lose the whole.

If a man seduced a woman, and she was with child, he was either obliged to marry her, or give her a portion equal to what the could expect from her father.

If a man committed a rape, and was found guilty by the verdict of a jury, the Deemsters gave the woman a rope, a sword, and a ring, and she had it in her power, either to marry him, or chuse whether he should be hanged or beheaded.

Such were the laws of this island during the time it was in the hands of the duke of Athol; but since it has been vested in the crown, the British parliament have made various alterations, and the government now is much the same as in the respective counties of England.

SECT. II

Topographical Descrption of THE Isle of Man.

WE shall begin our topographical description of this Island with the town of Ramsay, situated near the northern extremity, and then proceed in a regular manner to the south, taking in every place and particular thing that merits the notice of a traveller.

RAMSAY, though a small town, ts exceeding populous, and contains many handsome houses. It has a good harbour, which is much frequented by ships from Scotland and Whitehaven. But the greatest advantage of this town is its bay, which is so large and commodious, that great fleets may lay in it, during the severest storm, without the least danger.

In the neighbourhood of Ramsay are several small villages, but they are all poor places, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen.

Laxey is a very agreeable town, situated to the south of Ramsay, on the east side of the Island. It contains some neat houses, and has a good stone bridge over the river of the same name.

Near this town was formerly a convent for friars minors, founded by one of the lords of Man in the year 1373. Of this structure there are still some considerable remains, particularly the chapel and part of the cloisters.

In the same neighbourhood are many Druidical monuments ; and some time in the last century a silver crucifix was dug out of a grave, with several pieces of gold coin.

Near the same place were dug up some warlike instruments, particularly brass daggers, and a target, such as was used by the Scots in former times. It was studded with nails of pure gold, rivetted with the same metal, from which it is reasonable to suppose, that it belonged to some person of high rank, who was probably buried here.

Some miles to the north of Laxey is a lofty mountain called SNAFIFLD. It is 1740 feet perpendicular in heighth, and from the top is a most unbounded prospect over the sea, part of England; Scotland, Wales and Ireland.

Peel is the chief town on the western side of the island. It is, however, but a poor place, built in a most straggling manner along the shore ; but the harbour is good and very commodious. In this town stands the cathedral, which was some years ago thoroughly repaired. The choir is neatly fitted up, and the whole has a very agreeable appearance. The apartments in which the dignitaries formerly lodged, with the episcopal palace, are in ruins, but from what yet remains, they appear to have been spacious and handsome structures. But the greatest curiosity in this town is its antient castle, a very remarkable structure built on a rock, and inaccessible on all sides, except that towards the town, where the passage may be forded at low water, but it is most common to cross it in a boat. At the foot of the rock is a natural platform of stone, from whence is a narrow passage of sixty steps cut out of the rock ; and at the top of these is the foundation of the first wall, exceeding thick, with four watch towers at the corners. The gates are curiously adorned with fine carvings, and over them are strong battlements, where the watchmen used to stand, in readiness to throw stones on the assailants. Within the first gate is a flight of thirty steps leading to the foundation of the second wall. This is not so antient as the first, for it appears to have been built since the invention of gun-powder, there being many holes in it for cannon. Within the upper wall are many monuments of antiquity, particularly the walls of three chapels, and in them are several tombs of the antient governors.

The hall, rooms and galleries of the castle are exceeding magnificent, being finished in the most elegant Gothic taste, and adorned with many curious carvings. The prospect from it is the most romantic that can be conceived, and the whole furnishes the traveller with an idea of the antient grandeur of those great barons, who reigned over their vassals with an absolute authority.

During the turbulent reign of Henry VI. Eleanor, duchess of Gloucester, was, by the intrigues of the duke of Suffolk and cardinal Beaufort, imprisoned in this castle, under pretence that she had applied to witches to be informed when her husband, who was great uncle to' Henry, should be king. Sir John Stanley, the governor, treated her with great lenity, but as no person loves confinement, and as the duchess made some attempts to escape, he was obliged to place a guard over her. At length, when she heard that her lord was barbarously murdered by the intrigues, and at the instigation, of his brother Beaufort, she attempted to destroy herself, which obliged Sir John to confine, her much more closely than before.

To the east of Peel is KIRK MICHAEL, the seat of the bishop of Man. It is a, handsome structure surrounded by gardens laid out with great taste and elegance; and the neighbourhood being well cultivated, the whole has a most delightful appearance.

CASTLETOWN, antiéntly called Sodor, is the capital of the Island, and the place where the courts are held, and all public business. transacted. Many of the houses are exceeding handsome; and the harbour is both safe and commodious.

It was in this town that St. Patrick, or some of the Scottith itinerant preachers, first fixed the residence of a bishop, but it was removed to Peel long before the reformation.

Adjoining to the town is the castle, founded by one of the lords of Man in the tenth century, who then held it under the Norwegians. It is a stately structure, situated on a rock, and encompassed with walls so thick, that three persons can walk abreast on it. Within is a lofty tower, and the whole is surrounded with a moat, so that the passage to it is over a drawbridge. All the civil courts are held in this castle, and the different apartments are fitted up in the neatest manner.

About five miles to the west of Castletown is a small village called BALLY SALLEY, famous, in former times, for a rich monaftery founded in the eleventh century for monks of the Cistertian order. Some remains of the building are still to be seen, from which it appears to have been originally a most noble structure.

There was another religious house at BALLAMONA, a small village near this place; but, in latter times it was annexed to that of Balley-Salley.

Nearly opposite to Castletown, about half a mile in the sea, is a small Island called the Calf of Man. It is greatly resorted to by various kinds of wild fowl, and in it is a very large warren of rabbits.

About sixty years ago some Irish adventurers began to build a town in this place; but it is still no better than a village, consisting only of a few mean houses, chiefly inhabited by fishermen.

Douglas, the last town we have to mention in this island, is situated in the south-east part of it, about eleven miles from Castletown. It received its name from being situated on the banks of two small streams, one of a blackish colour, and the other grey, the word Douglas, in the Erse language, signifying those colours.

It is a large, populous town, and the principal residence of most of the capital traders of the Island. The harbour is spacious and safe, and able to receive ships of considerable burthen.

The streets of this town are irregular and badly paved; but some of the houses are very neat, and there is a handsome chapel, with a free-school.

In the neighbourhood of Douglas was antiently a convent for nuns. Great part of it is still standing, particularly the chapel, in which are many curious monuments. The inscriptions on some of them import, that the persons deposited had fled to this place, where they found an asylum from the tyranny of the English monarchs.

Before we take leave of the isle of Man, it may not be improper to mention the following occurrence.

In 1760 Monsieur Thurot, the famons French captain, and one of the best seamen they ever had, having sailed from Dunkirk with several ships, continued his voyage round the north of Scotland, and south, along the western sea, as far as the bay of Carrickfergus in Ireland, where he landed, being in great want of provisions. There being only a few men in Carrickfergus, the castle was obliged to surrender, and on the 25th of February, about one o'clock in the morning Thurot reimbarked his men, and set sail, taking along with him hostages for the payment of the money, that he had demanded from Carrickfergus.

In the mean time the duke of Bedford, lord lieutenant of Ireland, having received an account of Thurot, sent an express to captain Elliot, then lying at Kingsale, ordering him to sail immediately against the enemy. In the evening of the 26th Thurot attempted to get into the bay of Carrickfergus, but found it impossible, and therefore stood out to sea.

On the 28th, about four in the morning, he discovered the enemy, and gave them chace, and about nine o'clock came alongside of them, near the Isle of Man. In a few minutes the action began, and captain Elliot attempted to board the Belleisle, in which Thurot was, but was not able to accomplish it, till Forbes, his first lieutenant, got into her, at the head of twenty men, and struck the French colours with his own hand. In the engagement, which lasted about an hour and a half, the brave Thurot was killed, and the captain of the other French ship struck to Elliot, who carried the prisoners into the Isle of Man.