[from Black's Guide, c.1888]

CASTLETOWN.

10½ m. S.W. of Douglas ; 12 m. S. of Peel.
Hotels: George and Union.
Anciently called Russin or Rushen; in Manx Balla Chastal,
Population 2274,

CASTLETOWN lies at the head of its dangerous rocky bay, at the mouth of the little Silverburn or brook. It has a pier about 200 yards in length. It was formerly the seat, of the Insular Government, the residence of the Governor, and the capital of the Island; but within the last few years, as the Governor has resided at Douglas, and the Tynwald Courts have been held there, the town has lost much of its ancient importance. Yet the Insular records and legal registers are still preserved in the Rolls Court ; it has excellent endowed schools, and King William's College is near. There is a good Grammar School, and a High School for girls has been lately established. These circumstances render it a quiet respectable town. Its buildings, ancient and modern, are mostly built of the local limestone. The Castle and other antiquities, both within and near the town, and the very curious and varied natural features of the S. coast, attract many visitors ; but Castletown is less resorted to as a holiday residence than Douglas and Ramsey are.

It has a market for agricultural produce and fish. There is also a lifeboat well-manned.

In the Market Place is a Doric Column, 50 ft. high, erected in 1836in honour of Lieutenant-Governor Smelt, who held office from 1805 till his death in 1832.

Near Smelt's monument is a very curious stone globe, having 13 facets, by which are shown, not only the time of day by the sun, but that of the night also by the moon. St. Mary's Church, in the Market Place, was built in 1826, on the site of one erected by Bishop Wilson in 1698. An ancient church called St. Mary's of Rushen is now used as a Grammar School. It is supposed to be as early us the 12th century.

A small building with pillars at its door, near the castle, is the place where the House of Keys assembled for about 170 years. The barracks, lodging usually 50 soldiers, are opposite one of the entrances to the castle. Lorn House, the former residence of the Governor, is at the N. end of the town.

But the object of chief interest is the Castle of Rushen. This massive and venorable pile is associated throughout the history of Man as the stronghold and palace of its kings, the seat of the legislature, and the general prison. A castle stood here in the 10th century, but probably no part of the present building is older than 1313. In 1818 a beam was found bearing the date 947, and a stone inscribed 1103 over a doorway near the staircase ; but these are deemed forgeries, and therefore are no clue to the actual age. It has undoubtedly been a fortress from Norman times, and the Tynwald Court continued to be held within its walls till the last few years,

The early rulers used to sit near the entrance, attended by their deemsters, to receive petitions, hear pleadings, and to administer the summary justice of those despotic times,

One window in the clock-tower will be observed to be more ornate than the others; this was the E. window of the ancient chapel ; it has on one side the ambry and on the other a ledge upon which stood the ancient altar. In the courtyard is "Bruce's Well ;" it is 25 ft. deep, and it bears the hero's name as having been the only source of water during his three months' siege of the castle in 1313. How the castle was supplied with water remained a mystery till lately, when some subterranean pipes were discovered in various parts of the town; through these, water was conveyed from Ballalough, ½ of a mile. In the chapel is the "Wishing Stone," which, to those who stand upon it, is, we are assured, as efficacious as ever! Castle Rushen has its full share of legendary marvels, One of these, as told by Waldron in his Description of the Isle of Man, may interest the reader :-

"There is an apartment in the Castle of Rushen that has never been opened in the memory of man. The persons belonging to the castle are very cautious in giving any reason for it, but the natives, who are exceedingly superstitious, assign this, that there is something of enchantment in it. They tell you that the castle was at first inhabited by fairies, and afterwards by giants, who continued in possession of it until the days of Merlin, who, by the force of magic, dislodged the greatest part of them and bound the rest of them in spells, indissoluble to the end of the world. For proof of this, they tell you a very odd story. They say there are a great many fine apartments underground, exceeding in magnificence any of the upperrooms. Several men of more than ordinary courage have, in former times, ventured down to explore the secrets of this subterranean dwelling-place, but none of them ever returned to give an account of what they saw. It was therefore judged convenient that all the passes to it should be continually shut, that no more might suffer by their temerity. About some fifty or fifty-five years since, a person possessed of an uncommon boldness and resolution begged permission to visit these dark abodes. He at length obtained his request, went down, and returned by the help of a clue of packthread which he took with him, which no man before had ever done, and brought this amazing discovery :- That after having passed through a great number of vaults, he came into a long narrow place, which, the farther he penetrated, he perceived that he went more and more on a descent ; till, having travelled, as near as he could guess, for the space of a mile, he began to see a gleam of light, which, though it seemed to come from a vast distance, was the most delightful sight he ever beheld. faving at length come to the end of that lane of darkness, he perceived a large and magnificent house, illuminated with many candles, whence proceeded the light he had seen. Having, before he began the expedition, well fortified himself with brandy, he had courage enough to knock at the door, which, on the third knock, was opened by a servant, who asked him what he wanted. 'I would go as far as I can,' replied our adventurer; 'be so kind, therefore, as to direct me how to accomplish my design, for I see no passage but that dark cavern through which I came.' The servant told him he must go through the house, and accordingly led him through a long entry, and out at a back door. He then walked a considerable way, till he beheld another house more magnificent than the first; and, all the windows being open, discovered innumerable lamps burning in every room. Here, also, he designed to knock, but had the curiosity to step on a little bank which commanded a view of a low parlour, and, looking in, he beheld a vast table in tha middle of the room, and on it, extended at full length, a man, or rather a monster, at least fourteen foot long and ten or twelve round the body, This prodigious fabric lay as if sleeping, with his head upon a book, with a sword by him, of a size answerable to the hand, which 'tis supposed made use of it. This sight wan more terrifying to our traveller than all the dark and dreary mansions through which he had passed. He resolved, therefore, not to attempt an entrance into a place inhabited by persons of such monstrous stature, and made the best of his way buck to the other house, whore the same servant reconducted and informed him that if he had knocked at the second door he would have seen company enough, but could never have returned. On which he desired to know what place it was, and by whom possessed the other replied that these things were not to be revealed, He then took his leave, and, by the same passage, got into the vaults, and soon afterwards once more ascended to the light of the sun, Ridcuulous as the narrative appears, whoever seems to dinbelieve it islooked upon as a person of weak faith."

Another story is given by tho same author :-

"A mighty bustle they also make of an apparition, which, they say, haunts Castle Ruasin, in tho form of a woman who was some years since executed for the murder of her child, I have heard not only persons who have been confined there for debt, but also the soldiers of the garrison affirm they have seen it various times ; but what I took most notice of was the report of a gentleman, of whose good understanding, as well as veracity, I have a very great opinion. He told me that, happening to be abroad late one night, and catched in an excessive storm of wind and rain, he saw a woman stand before the castle gate, where, being not the least shelter, it something surprised him that any body, much less one of that sex, should not rather run to some little porch or shed, of which there are several in Castletown, than chuse to stand still, exposed and alone, to such a dreadful tempest. His curiosity exciting him to draw nearer, that he might discover who it was that seemed so little to regard the fury of the elements, he perceived she retreated on his approach, and at last, he thought, went into the castle, though the gates were shut. This obliging him to think he had seen a spirit, sent him home very much terrified ; but the next day, relating his adventure to some people who lived in the castle, and describing, as near as he could, the garb and stature of the apparition, they told him it was that of the woman above mentioned, who had been frequently seen by the soldiers on guard to pass in and out of the gates, as well as to walk through the rooms, though there was no visible means to enter. Though so familiar to the eye, no person has yet, however, had the courage to speak to it, and, as they say a spirit has no power to reveal its mind without being conjured to do so in a proper manner, the reason of its being permitted to wander is unknown."

Governor Sir H. B. Loch had the mysterious chambers opened ; when, alas for romance, nothing of any interest was found, and, being damp and dirty, they were once more closed.

The castle walls vary in thickness from 7 to 12 ft. ; the embattled wall is 25 ft. high and 9 ft. thick. The flagstaff tower is 80 ft. high, the others 70 ft.

The keep with its banqueting-hall, chapel, and other apartments formed the royal palace. The apartments in which the Derby family resided are now used as the Rolls Office. The castle continued to be the residence of the Lieutenant-Governors till 1838, Governor Ready being its last occupant.

The glacis, with its three round towers, was erected by Cardinal Wolsey while he held the Island in trust during the minority of Edward Stanley, who became Lord of Man, 1528. Ascending the 100 steps to the top of the tower, the view is very fine, embracing not only the insular peaks, but also, in favourable weather, the Parys Mountain in Anglesea, and the Snowdon range ; while beyond Port Erin are Black Comb, the Mourne Mountains, and Slieve Donard, In the other direction, however, the more northern part of the Cumbrian range and Scotland are hidden by Snaefell.

The S. tower contains a clock presented by Queen Elizabeth in 1597, when she held the Island in trust for the rival claimants for its possession. Its bell was given by James Earl of Derby, 1729. The clock, which is constructed with 7 wheels, is still trustworthy.

Many eminent persons have been immured in its dungeons, During the Commonwealth, the Countess of Derby occupied one in the inner court of the keep. This is now a prison for male felons, and can be seen only by a magistrate's order.[The new prison at Douglas will supersede this] Passing the second portcullis, we find the small miserable prison in which Bishop Wilson spent two months in 1722.

He had suspended Archdeacon Horrobin, the Governor's chaplain, for a serious breach of ecclesiastical discipline. It appears that Mrs. Horne, wife of Captain Horne, who was Governor of the Isle of Man in 1729, accused Mrs. Puller, a widow of fair character, of improper intimacy with one Sir James Pool; and Archdeacon Horrobin, the government chaplain, under this accusation, excluded Mrs. Puller from the holy communion. She had recourse to the mode pointed out by the constitution of the Manx Church, to prove her innocence ; and she and Sir James Pool took the oath of compurgation before the bishop, with compurgators of the best character. No evidence being produced of their guilt, they were by the bishop cleared of the charge, and Mrs. Horne was sentenced to ask the pardon of the parties whom she had so unjustly traduced. This she refused to do, and she treated the bishop and his authority, as well as the ecclesiastical constitution of the Island, with contempt. She was consequently put under censure and banished from the Lord's Supper till atonement should be made. In defiance of this censure, the archdeacon received her at the communion, and he was in consequence suspended by the bishop. The archdeacon, instead of appealing to his metro- politan, the Archbishop of York, the only legal judge to whom the appeal could be made, threw himself on the civil power, and the Governor fined the bishop £50, and his two vicars-general, who had been officially concerned in the suspension, £20 each. This fine they all refused to pay, as being arbitrary and unjust, on which the Governor sent a party of soldiers, and on the 29th of June 1722 they were committed to the prison of Castle Rushen, where they were closely confined, and no person was admitted within the walls to see or converse with them. An appeal was made by petition to the king, who ordered the bishop's release. The bishop's imprisonment extended over eight weeks. On the 4th of July 1724 the king in council reversed all the proceedings of the officers of the Island, declaring them to be oppressive, arbitrary, and unjust."

Beneath this prison is a dungeon, into which criminals who were deemed especially dangerous were lowered by ropes.

In 1864 Mr. Brown, the proprietor and printer of the Isle of Man Times, was imprisoned in the debtor's prison for seven weeks, for an alleged libel on the then self-elected House of Keys. The libel was comprised in some spirited comments on the refusal by the House to grant increased power to the Town Commissioners of Douglas. Mr. Brown not only recovered heavy damages for false imprisonment, but greatly increased the popularity of his paper. The latest prisoner of note was the Rev. John Howard, Vicar of Onchan in 1874, for contempt of court.

A Roman altar, some coins of Germanicus and Agrippina, etc, were found in digging the foundations of St. Mary's Church in 1826, but there is no evidence of any actual Roman occupation of the place. The moat which formerly surrounded the castle is now filled up.

From CastLetown To Peel.-The road N. of the town commands fine views both of the coast and the peaks and ridges from the S.W. to Snaefell ; stretching along about 14 m.N., is Malew Church. Here are some interesting relics, an ancient font, etc. Malew is a corruption of Lupus, the Saint to whom the church was dedicated. A stone to the memory of Lieutenant-Colonel Reddish, who died 1717, aged 69, is thus inscribed :-
" When he sought death with his sword and shield, Death was afraid to meet him in the field;
But when his weapons he had laid aside, oy Death, like a coward, stroke him and he died.

"Illiam Dhone" was buried here the day after his execution (see p. 123).

There is an ancient bell turret, as well as many monuments ; the earliest bears date 1578.

At the junction of the next road to the right is a stone circle. After crossing Athol Bridge (see Geology, p. 98) the next road E. leads to St. Mark's, a small village whose chapel was built in 1772. The "Black Fort," mentioned in Peveril of the Peak, has long since disappeared ; a large stone, called Crovan's Stone, formerly stood near it. "This monumental stone, designed to commemorate some feat of an ancient king of Man which had been long forgotten, was erected on the side of a narrow lonely valley or rather glen, secluded from observation by the steepness of its banks, upon a projection of which stood the tall, shapeless, solitary rock, frowning like a shrouded giant, over the brawling of the small rivulet which watered the ravine." This famous granite boulder, which is from twenty to thirty tons in weight, has a singular legend attached to it. "Goddard lived with his termagant wife in a great castle on the top of S. Barrule. Unable to endure the violence of her tongue, he at length unceremoniously turned her out of doors, After descend- ing the mountain some distance, she turned round and began to rate him so soundly at the full pitch of her voice that, in a rage, he seized on this huge granite block, and, hurling it with all his might, killed her on the spot." It has been broken in pieces and built into the parson- age, but a large block of it is still preserved in the glebe. This height commands wide views of much beauty. South Barrule is directly W.; passing Glen Darragh, Slieu Chiarn, and Mount Murray, an easy descent brings us to Douglas.

Continuing our walk northward from Athol Bridge, we descend into Foxdale, passing near the base of South Barrule - the ascent of it is easy ; we find the village close to the mines.

About a mile farther are Hamilton Bridge and Waterfall, the latter, like many others, almost destroyed by quarrying. |

There is a strange story told of the mother of Mr. Hamilton, who is said to have built this bridge. The lady being - as was supposed - dead, was buried; but some thieves, who opened her grave to steal the rings from her fingers, were terrified to find her alive ; and so com- plete was her restoration said to be, that she afterwards gave birth to twin sons, one of whom was the builder of the bridge.

From here, Slieu Whallin (900) and the Cairn (1094) being on the left, and Greeba (1382) on the right, our road keeps direct to St. John's Station, meeting the road from Douglas to Peel.

Tynwald Hill.

This is renowned as the place for the annual Assembly of the insular legislature for the proclamation of the Acts passed during the preceding year. For this purpose, on the 5th of July, all the magnates assemble for prayers in the adjacent Church of St. John, from which they form a procession to the Hill. The titles of the Acts passed during the preceding year are then read in Manx and English. The legislators then return to the church, which is thus converted for the day into a House of Parliament, when the Governor announces his plans for the coming session, and animated discussions usually ensue. The public are admitted, and as the day is devoted to general festivity, the church is crowded. The event, however, is now divested of its ancient splendour and picturesque interest.

How long this annual ceremony. has taken place is not known, but when Sir John Stanley, as King of Man, met his great Officers of State, Deemsters, and Barons, it was as described in the Statute of a.p. 1417 :- "This is the Constitution of old time, how yee shall be governd on Tynwald Day. First you shall come hither in your royal array, as a king ought to do, by the prerogatives and royalties of the land of Mann. And upon the Hill of Tynwald sitt in a chaire covered with a royall cloath and cushions, and your visage unto the east, and your sword before you, holden with the point upward. Your Barrons in the third degree sitting beside you, and your beneficed men and your Deemsters before you sit- ting ; and your clarke, your knights, esquires and yeomen about you in the third degree, and the worthiest men in your land to be called in before your Deemsters, if you will ask anything of them, and to hear the government of your land and your will; and the commons to stand without the circle of the Hill, with their clarkes in their surplices ... Then the chief Coroner, that is the Coroner of Glen- faba, shall make affence upon pain of life and lyme, that noe man make any disturbance or stirr in the time of Tynwald, or any murmur or rising in the King's pre- sence, upon paine of hanging or drawing, and then to proceed in your matters that touch the government in your land of Manne."

Tynwald Courts have been held at various places in ancient times, but only here for the last three centuries at least. Although it is asserted by Bishop Wilson that the people had a right to present petitions to the annual Tynwald Court to be then discussed, the following statute shows the hazard of such a course :- "If any person rise up against the Governor sitting in the Tynwald Court wherein he represents the Lord's person, they are to be deemed traitors and to be sentenced to death without any inquest on them by the Deemster; that they be first drawn after wild horses, then hanged and afterwards quartered, and their heads struck off and set upon the Castle Tower, over the town with one quarter there, the second quarter to be set up at Peel, the third at Ramsey, and the fourth at Douglas."

Two battles were fought in the neighbourhood - one in 1229 between Olave the Black and Reginald his brother, who had usurped the throne; the other arose out of a popular riot. The Manx name for the Hillis Cronk-y- Keillown (Hill of St. John's Church). It is an artificial circular mound, composed of earth traditionally said to have been brought from every parish, 240 ft. in circumfer- ence at the base, and rising by four stages, each 3 ft. higher, and successively 8, 6, 4, 6 ft. narrower than the preceding one. The summit is flat, and about 30 ft. in diameter.

Sr. John's Church stands on the site of an ancient chapel. It was built in 1847, of the local stone, with facings of granite from Foxdale. It is specially adapted to its annual use as a Tynwald Court. The spire is 100 ft. high. In the porch is a Runic Cross belonging to the former chapel, inscribed-"Iva the swarthy raised these Runes." Some beads, a battle-axe, and a stirrup found near, are now in the Museum of Geology, London.

WALKS NEAR CASTLETOWN.

Hango Hill is opposite King William's College, about 3 m. from the town. It was also called Mount Strange, from the Derby family surname. It is the traditionary place of execution, hence the first syllable of the name.

The hill is gradually being diminished by the sea; and as human bones are thus often disclosed, it is supposed to have been an ancient burial-place.

Its chief interest lies in its having been the scene of "Iliam Dhone's" death, 1662 (See History, p. 123, and notes to Scott's Peveril of the Peak). In the parish register of Malew Church the event is thus recorded :- (1662) "Mr. William Christian, of Ronaldsway, late Receiver, was shott to death att Hango Hill, the 2d of January. He died most penitently and most curragiously, made a good end, prayed earnestly, made an excellent speech, and the next day was buried in the chancel of Malew."

Another extract supports the belief that it was the usual place of execution :- "Anno 1654, William Kennish and Robert Calou, of Kirk Maughold, for murthering of one Cottscam, of the said parish, were hanged upon the gallows of Hango Hill, August 31, and buried in the churchyard of Kirk Malew, down in the way by the porch."

KING WILLIAM'S COLLEGE.-This building was first erected 1830, but a large part of it with its valuable library was burnt in 1844, Its restoration cost £3800 ; about half of which was quickly raised by subscription, and a new library was formed by contributions from the University presses, various societies, Bishop Short, and many of the insular gentry. There is a large collection of minerals also, illustrating the insular geology ; many of these were collected by the late Rev. J. G. Cumming, formerly the Vice-Principal.

The Governor, and the leading functionaries of the Island, ecclesiastical and civil, form the Council. The present head master is assisted by ten masters. The curri- culum is that of the great public schools.

There is now a long list of eminent scholars who were educated in the college, and it has attained to the first rank among the schools of Great Britain. There are 18 scholarships attached to it, ranging from £10 to £25 each; and four exhibitions to Cambridge, Oxford, and Dublin, Besides these, there are two open exhibitions of £40 each, and five open scholarships of £20 to the school itself. These are maintained out of the school funds. There are about 200 pupils, mostly boarders.

This institution originated with the Earl of Derby, who was executed in 1651, as is shown by a letter written to his son Charles in 1643, to this effect :- "I had a design, and may God enable me to set up an university without. much charge (as I have contrived it) which may much oblige the nations round about us. It may get friends unto the country, and enrich this land. This certainly would please God and man." Bishop Barrow, a few years afterwards, collected and bequeathed money in support of this design, and many subsequent bequests and donations have provided the means of maintaining its high position.

A Theological School for training candidates for the ministry is connected with the college.

SCARLETT Point, the S.W. extremity of Castletown Bay, is about 1 m. from the town. It is distinguished by a limekiln upon it; very varied, wide, and beautiful prospects, both inland and coastwise, are to be enjoyed from it. The stack, which is insulated at high water, is about 40 ft. high. The whole neighbourhood is very rich in geological interest. Near the stack a path among the rocks is called Cromwell's Walk ; no one seems to know why. The whole of the shore near is highly picturesque and wild. Returning from Poolvash by Balladoole House is about a 4 m. walk.

LANGNESS.-To reach this interesting peninsula from Castletown we pass the college and Hango Hill, over the racecourse, whence is a good view of the inland mountains. one.

The landmark, which resembles a "Round Tower," and is 60 ft. high, was erected 1818.

There are some very curious natural arches, caves, etc., and the whole district is highly grotesque, and especially interesting to geologists. The rock terminates in a dangerous reef called "The Skerranes." Many wrecks attest the danger of the whole south coast, and show the necessity for the new lighthouse which was built in 1880.

Santon.-In the churchyard are some interesting grave- stones, a font, and a stone inscribed AVIT MONOMENT, probably meaning "a monument to ancestors." One stone, emphatically "the great broad stone,"covers the graves of six clergymen, all named Cosnahan, four of whom were in succession vicars of Santon. The title "Sir," prefixed to their names, was a usual designation, probably a translation of dominus, formerly applied to them. There is also a tombstone over the remains of a student of King William's College, who was killed by falling from the cliffs near Saltrick, some years ago.

RACECOURSE.-This is situate across the isthmus, about a mile in length, level and covered with good turf. The races were established in 1627 by the Earl of Derby, then Lord of Man. The prize was then a silver cup given by the Earl, and the race was supported by the chief people of the Island.

DERBY HAVEN is a small fishing village about 1½ m. from Castletown. It is an excellent harbour, improved by a breakwater. There is a communication between Langness and St. Michael's Isle by a causeway.

This haven was anciently termed Rognalwath, Rognalds Vaglr, Rannesway or Ramsway, the harbour of Rognald. Several fierce encounters are recorded to have taken place there. The usurper Dugalson was defeated by the Manx in 1250. Twenty years afterwards, the latter were over- come by the Scotch under Stewart and Comyn. And the Irish freebooters, led by Mandeville, plundered the country and Rushen Abbey, and then decamped with their booty.

St. Michael's or Miaeuit's Isle contains the ruins of a chapel of unknown date, and of a fort more recent. This is sometimes used as a burial-ground for Catholics.. Continuing along the shore, we reach the Santon Burn, from which Santon Church is about 1 mile.

At the entrance of this singularly picturesque glen is the remarkable group of rocks, Cass-ny-awin (the foot of the waters). This is succeeded by grand precipitous cliffs, whose water-worn bases and caves are very striking.

SALTRICK is a little N. of Cass-ny-awin cliffs, "appalling in their grandeur and their height," with their bases excavated into strangely-formed hollows. The cliffs are continued beyond this as far as St. ANNE's or SANTON Head. On the road hence to Santon Church is a stone circle on a hill about 300 ft. above it. This commands a wide view. Similar features characterise the coast all the way to Douglas Head.

GREENWICK or Greenough (the bay of trees) is similar to, but smaller than Port Soderick. They are separated by Cross Valley.

PORT SODERICK, about 3 m. from Douglas, is a pretty little bay bounded by the Little Ness. There are some fine caves, and a secluded glen formed by the Crogga stream whose source is in Mount Murray; the shore pools are rich in sea-anemones, etc. On the left of the road to Douglas, near Ballamona, is a stone circle. The walk hence to Douglas has been described, p. 27.