[From Manx Quarterly #10, 1911]
Mr James R. Moore, who recently left Peel for New Zealand, has furnished to
a lady friend resident in Peel an interesting account of his voyage. That Mr
Moore is determined, if possible, to perpetuate Manx associations is evidenced
from the fact that his residence in Ashburton, New Zealand, is called Cronk
Gennal, and is situate in Kermode-street. Writing from this address on January
15th, 1911, Mr Moore says:-
We had a pleasant time going to Grand Canary, mostly taken up in making acquaintances
and talking over our new prospects. At Las Palmas, our first coaling station,
we had a collision which delayed us five and a half days for repairs. The air
there was beautiful, and we went on shore there, and were quite surprised to
find Mr Percy Lawson, a Laxey man, who has been there in the hosiery business
for eleven years. One day a gentleman came on board to superintend coaling operations,
and hearing Annie speak, asked if she came from the Isle of Man. He is a Mr
Philip Faragher, and went to the National School, Ramsey, where his elder brother
and I were in the same class. Las Palmas is a Spanish settlement, and but for
directions from Mr Lawson and , Mr Faragher it would have been difficult to
have seen the places of interest, as we could scarcely find anyone able to converse
in English, and the customs are very quaint. For instance, at the Law Courts
we had to stand at the door and clap our hands to get a guide. Fruit was brought
to the ship's side in small launches, and sold very cheap. Mr Stevens, Lloyds
Agent, told me that the weekly output of bananas for the season exceeded 30,000
bunches. On the morning we left we had a magnificent view of the Peak of Teneriffe,
some sixty miles away Our journey through the tropics was monotonous; we got
so listless we could not read or write, and wanted no sleep. Two days before
crossing the line the weather went suddenly cold, and all had to put on heavy
clothing again, and this continued until we were within a day's sail of Capetown.
Flying fish and porpoises, with an occasional whale blowing in the distance,
were the only objects of attention. We had a magnificent view of Table Mountain,
mist -capped, as we entered Table Bay. Six hours were given us on shore in sweet
balmy air. We saw many places of interest, and the old oaks --carefully protected--which
were planted by the early settlers some 300 years ago.
On leaving, we experienced a great change as we entered the Indian Ocean. A chilly wind, with heavy seas and mountainous waves, continued until we struck the Australian coast at Wilson's Promontory, when all at once the heat became intense in the daytime. We continued in sight of the coast line, which is quite barren, until we entered the heads of Port Jackson, and then opened up the loveliest sight the eye could wish to feast upon. The hour's sail up to Sydney gave us in nature what the cinematograph tries to imitate. Words fail anyone to describe that sight. We remained four days, and made the best of our time. The first thing that struck us was the Australians are tall, slender built, and light in complexion. They are exceedingly sociable and anxious to assist " new chums" in every possible way. We spent a day with some Manx people-the Hamptons, from the Cooill, Braddan, who have been out twenty years. Mr H. Kinley, from Castletown, came down and spent an evening with us. If I had only plenty of money I think I should like to spend my days in Sydney, which we all left with regret. I might just say the Sidney people all tried to persuade us passengers against going to New Zealand.
The passage to Wellington was the roughest part of the journey; no one could safely go about on deck without the aid of the lifelines. "Windy Wellington" was the way the sailors described it, and it well deserves the name. It was a great contrast to us at daylight to gaze upon green hills by the sea after the barren uplands at Grand Canary, the low barren ridges on the coast of Africa, and the scrub-covered coast line of Australia. There was a marked difference in the inhabitants also; they were in stature much as at home, and on the whole had fine ruddy complexions. A sail of some fourteen hours on what they describe as the New Zealand ferry-boats-but which are much similar in style and capacity to the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company's fleet-brought us to Lyttelton, in the South Island. Our next stop was Christ-church, the centre of the railway service, where we met Mr Frank Lewin, a Laxey man, and learned that Mr James Young, a former gardener to Mr R. Williamson, was in charge of the Public Gardens. Then a ride of 53 miles over the great Canterbury Plain brought us to our destination.
This is a quiet little place; all dwellings are sitting in their own grounds of not less than an eighth of an acre. The main streets are 44 yards wide, ordinary streets 22 yards; and every street has a water-course, with water constantly flowing. Our " Qualtaagh" was Bert Clague, from Ballasalla, and at dinner we had Jack Kermeen, from Andreas, and two others from the Cooill. Yesterday James Young had a run up to see us. We are some forty miles away from the hills, which have perpetual snow, while here we wear lighter clothing than I have ever done at home. I have, with my family been busy settling down to new conditions; one of our boys has gone up country for the harvest, and I follow him to-morrow. Another has gone threshing; so you will see we have lost no time in trying to fall into new conditions.
We found your sweet little books very precious on our voyage, and treasure them all the more now, and expect to meet quite a number of " Manninee Dooie" who are in the surrounding district, when they will help to cement the bond of union with the homeland. Before long I hope to take up the line of old doings and sayings in dear old " Ellan Vannin."
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Any comments, errors or omissions gratefully received
The Editor |