[From Sketches in IoM, 1844]
" To climb the hill, and mark the setting sun
Shedding its golden light o'er land and sea,
Mountain, and field, and wood, and streams, that run
Through dells with pebbly bed, and spreading tree.
To note the glowing changes of the sky,
The lake, the vale, the town, the village spire,
And flocks and herds, that on the hill-side lie,
Seem in one gorgeous flame of liquid fire.
Faint ærial tints on distant rock and hill,
With deep, dark, shadowy banks, as day's declining;
Majestic trees, in deeper shadow still,
And the bright sunbeams through their branches shining.
The pure clear heaven pours forth its floods of light,
And vaporous clouds rise round the sinking sun,
For lingering day still glows in splendour bright,
As the clear sky in lustrous beauty shone."
THOSE persons who have not yet enjoyed a panoramic view from the top of Snafield, which is the highest mountain the Isle of Man has to boast of, we would strongly recommend to make the attempt without delay, particularly if they be of that class who love to contemplate the sublime and beautiful in nature. We recollect, with feelings which time itself will scarcely be able to efface, our first and only visit there. It was a calm and beautiful day, about the end of September, when trees are clad in russet brown, that our cavalcade set out; and a joyous morning indeed it was, for such an excursion. There was scarcely a cloud in the heavens, and even those that were abroad, lay slumbering on the horizon's margin, and on them the autumnal sun threw a mellow and varied tint, so that all things argued well for our prospect. Our party consisted of fourteen, or more, some of whom were provided with cars, and the rest managed as well as they could on horses.We chose the latter conveyance as the most comfortable, and should particularly advise all who go,on mountain excursions to follow the example, as we had positive and ocular demonstration of the uneasiness which those in the vehicles experienced, whilst we on the quadrupeds got along much more smoothly than could have been anticipated.
After leaving Ramsey (for it was from that pretty little town our party set out) in the distance about three miles, our road diverged into the Glen of Sulby, where scenery as grand, as magnificent, and as sublime as the imagination could picture to itself, was presented to us. On the right and left rose stupendous mountains, on the breasts of which large masses of granite protruded, and seemed as if the slightest breath of air would have been sufficient to have caused them to lose their equilibrium, and overwhelm the puny atoms of humanity who were travelling beneath. The road is cut along the base of the mountain, and is on the right of the ravine, as you proceed towards Snafield ; now it winds by a precipice, with scarcely half a foot of spare room for a carriage to pass, and, anon, it descends to the brink of the golden-coloured stream which glides down this picturesque valley, and, if we may compare small things with great, we opine there is no one who has travelled the Alps, but must be struck with the resemblance which this road bears to the Simplon that mighty undertaking of the grand Empereur, and which will ever remain as a monument of his master mind.
As we proceeded onward, the scenery assumed a more savage and desolate appearance-the rocks became more naked and threatening, and the ravine narrowed in as we approached the base of Snafield. Here those in the cars were obliged to leave them, and walk, for to have attempted the way further, would have been extremely hazardous ; we also dismounted, having great solicitude for our little Manx pony. And now our labour commenced-the greater portion of the party seemed determined to make the ascent-the young and the old all eager for the way.
After crossing the bridge, at the head of the glen, the road up the mountain becomes precipitous, but this being overcome by a little extra exertion and perseverance, a gradual ascent is gained for some ,way further up. On and on we went-no stop-no stay:-who could feel exhausted on such an excursion? before us was the height-the acmë of our desire-the goal of our hope-Snafield's apex ! But alas! even when most elated how unable are we to bear fatigue! When we imagine ourselves proof against every contingency, we find ourselves sadly deceived ; to take rest we often had occasion. We had not calculated on the tortuous paths we had to ascend, nor anticipated the deep morasses we had to avoid. As we looked up the mountain, it appeared like a new mowed meadow, with here and there gravel walks intersecting each other. Now, again, the ascent became more difficult-we had arrived at the cone ; we looked around for our companions, but many of them were far behind, wandering here and thereSome, indeed, had given up the task, for we perceived them slowly descending the mountain ;-we called aloud to them, and their voices, in reply, came faintly on the breeze. On again we went, determined if possible, to reach the top, first and foremost of the party, and our charge, who, by the way, was a most enthusiastic young person, was quite as anxious as we were, to do the same. Another rest! another! and another, and to ! we stood on the wished-for summit.
And how shall we describe the magnificent panorama which now burst upon our sight? For pen to do so were impossible! Nay, even the pencil could but convey a slight idea of the grandeur and sublimity of the scene which lay extended before us. Yes -it must be seen to be justly appreciated. Who can conceive, but those who have felt it, the enthusiasm which the soul enjoys when standing on the top of a lofty mountain ? Here we stood, upwards of seventeen hundred feet above the level of the sea-the mountains below appearing but as little hills, when com pared with this mighty pyramid of nature. To the north and south they stretched away, like waves chasing each other on the deep, until they were lost in the distance. Castletown was visible in the south ; and there, in the south-east, lay Douglas, cradled in peaceful security amid its encircling hills, whilst Peel Holme, with its towers and ramparts, stood out in bold relief against the crimson-dyed waters of the west ; and, turning to the north, Ramsey, and its crescent-shaped bay, lay calm, and peaceful, and serene. Beneath us lay Laxey Glen, in the very perfection of loveliness, exhibiting every hue and shade of colour, beautifully contrasted with each them Around, and far over the expanse of waters, were Scotland's hills, the sunny mountains of England, and Cambria's purple land, fading in the distance ; and there the bright land of the west rose out of the crimson-hued ocean, her mountains steeped in the gorgeous tints of the setting sun. We are glad that there are others who can appreciate the sublimity of the view from this mountain; hear what one of them says:-
The The view from the summit of Snafield is truly sublime in its extent, and is the only view of the kind to be found in the British dominions. In other respects the lovers of the picturesque will derive more pleasure from the wild scenery of Loch Lomond or Katrine ; but no man can stand on this Island peak, in the centre of the three kingdoms, and behold the distant shores of each across the blue waters, without feeling something of that `wild emotion' which the contemplation of the grander phases of nature is calculated to inspire. There is something ennobling in the situation. He beholds beneath his feet a little Isle which has witnessed more of battle, and broil, and blood, than any spot of similar extent in the world; where all the passions of the human breast, pride, revenge, burning love, and hate, and courage quelled but by death, have found their sphere ; he beholds the scene of many a hard-fought contest for the crowns and sceptres which wither away with the bodies they adorned; and he gazes on the soil where the feet of Wilson have trod, and thinks with rapture of the victories gained by that holy man, and his achievement of a kingdom more glorious than those of earth, and of a diadem whose lustre shall eclipse the suns of the firmament."
We lingered until the sun was nearly approaching the horizon's brink, watching the various changes of light and shade which the sea, and sky, and land partook of-crimson, yellow, and purple, most harmoniously blended together. After having taken a last fond look on all around, we bade farewell to Snafield, turned again down the mountain, and, in a short time, found ourselves comfortably seated in a rustic sheiling in Sulby Glen, before a blazing peat fire. Here our party again assembled, some of whom exhibited evident vexation at being defeated in their object of ascending the mountain, but a good repast, with no lack of champagne, put all of us in the best humour imaginable ; and having ordered the horses to be got ready, we retraced our way down the glen, and arrived in Ramsey ere yet the shades of evening had faded into night.
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Any comments, errors or omissions gratefully received
The Editor |