Any comments, errors or omissions gratefully received The
Editor
HTML Transcription ©
F.Coakley , 2017
[From Descriptive Guide to St Michael's Island 1882]
"Bright emerald from the amethystian sea ! Thy rocks are aged, mighty, jagged, steep."
or, as it has been locally termed since the erection of the fort in 1645, the Fort Island, is situated at the south-eastern extremity of Man. If we consider this small island historically, ecclesiastically, geologically, or artistically, we shall find it replete with interest. The lover of antiquity may revel in the ancient traditions which cling to the interesting ruin of a Romish chapel ; he may roll back the distant centuries, and in his " mind's eye " call up from the dim past the ghosts of departed priests of a primitive age who once peopled this unpretending little chapel. The historical student will delight in the ancient fort, and seek out the neighbouring places of historical interest- Ronald sway, Hango Hill, and Castle Rushen. The geologist will have an opportunity of examining the varieties of clay schist, intersected with trap dykes and masses of porphyry ; and the lover of Nature will be charmed with this lovely gem of the south, with its majestic rock scenery, beetling crags, rugged cliffs, diminutive romantic bays, and wild rent gullies. Here the artist might covet many a treasure for his sketch book of wild rock scenery, when on a stormy day the fierce billows roll in, spending their fury on those time-enduring cliffs, and "Nature's sounds" are heard in the plaintive cry of the curlew from some rocky cranny near the shore. Here on a fine day one may luxuriate in Nature's loveliness, with the wide ocean around smiling in the sunlight [6]like a sweep of molten glass, broad, fathomless, and mysterious -now burnished in the sun's rays, and again gleaming in its rich shades of blue and purple. The pleasure seeker may indulge his nautical tastes by boating and fishing in Derbyhaven Bay.
The port of Derbybaven was anciently called Rognalwath, Ronaldswath, and Ronaldsway. In former times this port was of considerable importance, and to it was assigned a large portion of the traffic of the island. The harbour is certainly possessed of considerable capabilities, and the bay is especially adapted for boating. About half a century ago a breakwater was erected on a ridge of limestone running southwards from Ronaldsway House. St. Michael's Isle forms the eastern boundary of this beautiful bay, and Ronaldsway the northern. The hamlet of Derbyhaven is finely situated, facing the bay. It is worthy of the attention of the geologist to notice that, with the exception of Poolvash marble and granite, every rock and soil contained in the Isle of Man are found within the limits of this picturesque bay.
The island of St. Michael consists of rent and rugged masses of clay slates, in many cases set on edge and inverted, through which protrude porphoritic dykes. In the southern corner of the bay we have the old red conglomerate resting unconformably on the schist, and presently we come across the lower shales and limestone. St. Michael's Island gives abundant evidence of volcanic action, and it is interesting to note the modifications of clay slates resulting from it. We have boulder clay on the carboniferous limestone, and along the rest of the bay the upper gravel and sand of the recent period forming the superficial covering. At the north corner of the bay, near Ronaldsway, the fossil collector may be gratified by possessing himself of the fine corals and brachiopods which characterise the lower limestone. There are many places around Derbyhaven which render it particularly interesting, and many fine views. may be obtained It is an undoubted fact that Derbyhaven is the finest natural harbour in the Isle of Man, being protected on every side by land except the south-east.
The historic site of Ronaldsway is dear to the heart of every true Manxman. His breast kindles with enthusiasm when he remembers that again and again the soil has been drenched with the blood of his forefathers fighting for liberty.
The battle-field of Ronaldsway can claim little of its fame from British history, but upon this memorable field the fate of the Manx nation was determined.
In 1250, " Magnus, son of Olave, and John the son of Dugald, along with some Norwegians came to Mann." John nominated himself Kinig of the Isles, and led his troops up to St. Michael's Island. The Manx boldly arrayed themselves on the shore, and waited until the ebb of the title left the isthmus dry which connects the islands. John and his armies sought refuge in their ships, but many were killed, and many more perished by shipwreck.
The Chronicles of Man likewise record how in 1275, on the 7th of October, the fleet of Alexander arrived at Ronaldsway, a battle was fought between the Manx and Scots, and 537 Manxmen perished in the battle.
The monks of Rushen preserved this number in the following doggerel epic verses:-
" L decies x ter et pente duo cecidere
Mannica geus de to damna futura cave,"
which signifies,
" Ten L's thrice X, with five and two did fall, Ye Manx take care, or suffer wore ye shall."
But, more than all, the Manx patriot loves Ronaldsway because it was the home of that noble-hearted William Christian, " the fair-haired Illiam Dhone" of the Manx ballads:
"A soldier's death was his-On Hango Hill
He firmly stood, and asked not to be bound."
St Michael's Island forms the south-eastern corner of Derbyhaven Bay. It is joined to the mainland by a causeway. A carriage road skirting the bay has been made for the conveniences of visitors who visit this historic island. It is a charming walk front Derbyhaven, with the springy elastic turf beneath the feet, the rising land from the shore clothed with golden gorse in spring, and the purple heather and masses of fern and bracken in autumn. The pebbly shore is below, beyond which stretches the blue waters of Derbyhaven Bay, with the straggling hamlet of Derbyhaven in the distance, and the famed Ronaldsway across the sparkling wavelets. Before we visit the island it will be well to cross the Rabbit Warren to the opposite shore. here the lover of beauty may be gratified by the splendid rock scenery afforded. Starting from the Boundary Wall we may follow up a succession of gullies running inland, with the rocks breaking up into a thousand fantastic forma Gullet Buigh is the first, after which we have Claberry, and Claberry Beg. Surely Nature was in her wildest mood in fashioning these rent and rugged masses.-
"Precipices steep,
Appalling in their grandeur and their height ;
The lashing waves, and roaring of the deep,
Thousands of sea fowl screaming in their flight ;
The stout heart quails, whilst dizzy grows the sight:
Huge grey rocks cleft, gulfs black and fathomless,
Rent by the solemn earthquake's dreadful might
This frowning coastline is washed by the waves of the Irish Sea.
In a few minutes we gain Hango Borough, and stay to admire the fine view, and to notice the earth fortifications, and then we proceed across the stone bridge built on the rocks to the famous little island.
A landing pier has been recently erected, so that steamers from Douglas may land passengers on the islet. The lauding pier is built on a rock called the Curlew Rock, and is known as the Curlew Pier. In the fifth century, when St. Patrick visited the Isle of Man to root up pagan superstitions and implant Christianity he rode over to the island of St. Michael and commanded his horse to stand still on the Curlew Rock, and to this day the imprint of his horses hoofs are to be seen on the rock. He was disturbed by the cry of a curlew as he remained motion-less admiring the sunset glories on Derbyhaven Bay, and be said aloud " Let no curlew's nest ever be found in Mann," and the natives say that the most hardy fisherman fails to find the nest of a curlew. The little, islet is only seven acres in extent; it is clothed with short springy grass, whereon the sea pinks, the graceful bluebell, and the purple thyme and creeping trefoil bloom, while ferns and heather beautify it in autumn. Fine bathing places have been provided, both for ladies and gentle-men, and the bay affords special advantages for boating. A spacious refreshment room has been erected near the island for the convenience of visitors. The ruins of the Romish chapel and the crumbling old fort are worthy of the detailed account which is given.
Ecclesiastically, this small islet was of considerable importance in ancient days. In all probability it was the ancient Sodor. Camden declares that on this diminutive islet Pope Gregory IV. founded a bishopric which he named Sodorensis, and which, in past ages, had jurisdiction over all the western, isles. I quote the following from Camden's Britannia ;-"Their chief town they count Rushin, situate on the south side, which of a castle wherein lieth a garrison, is commonly called Castletown, where, within a little island, Pope Gregory IV. instituted an Episcopal See, the bishop whereof, named Sodorensis, had jurisdiction, in times past, over all the islands."
The little chapel, or oratory, at the west of St. Michael's Island, is certainly of great antiquity. In examining Chaloner's "Description" of two centuries ago, this chapel is figured as a ruin.
It is popularly supposed to have been erected during the eleventh century, but it doubtless stood on this lonely islet long ages before. In tracing back the origin of this interesting edifice we lose ourselves amid the legends and myths which the poetic Manx folk treasure as sacred relics of their loved island.
In those dim and distant ages when civilization and culture flouishred on the Mediterranean shores, when the blind bard of " Scio's rocky isle " chanted his glorious epic, when rude barbarians roamed in the British Isles, then was the little kingdom of Man given over to a famed necromancer, a mighty magician, whose arts kept the existence of the island a secret from mankind by enveloping it in thick blue mists, thus preventing passing mariners from seeing it. Fairies held high revels there in that dim past, and at the bidding of the powerful magician the mountains rocked, the sea boiled up, and flames, sulphurous vapours, and dense columns of smoke issued from the bowels of the earth. Giants next held the island, and these were extirpated by the famous enchanter Merlin, in the reign of the British Prince Arthur. The ancient Druids fled here to escape the persecution of the followers of Julius Caesar, and the rites and ceremonies of Druidism were carried on in high places and deep groves. In spite of the "corruptions and philosophical atheisms " of the Druids, they were possessed of extensive learning, and in so high repute were they held that the Scottish kings sent their sons to be educated by the Manx Druids. The roving Scandinavians next took possession of the island, and Di uidism gave way to the worship of Scandinavian deities, and our ancient Manx forefathers considered themselves under the special protection of the mighty Thor, the god of thunder. Christianity was the means of eradicating this pagan worship, and this religion was introduced by St. Patrick, who was cast ashore with thirty other religious persons in 444. When this venerable ecclesiastic left the island, he appointed Germanus his successor, who divided the island into quarterlands, and afterwards St. Maughold was chosen bishop, 498. This brings us down to the probable date of the erection of this simple and unpretending little chapel. Its architectural structure and general details very strangely resemble those; of the interesting church, Perranzabuloe, in Cornwall) except in the number of windows, and if we placed it along with die church of Perranzabuloe in the same century as the oldest recorded stone church in Great Britain, viz., thlat of Candida Casa, or Whitchurch, in Galloway, erected in 448 by St. Mirian, we should probably arrive at the approximate date of the erection of this little chapel on this diminutive islet. To strengthen this opinion it will be well to bear in wind the close connection of Candida Casa, or Withern, with the See of Man in ancient times. If we could only gaze backward into the obscurity of the past, if long centuries could "expand their cloudy wings," how much Manx church history might we not find to depend upon this little oratory ? If we could " re-people with the past," might we not call up " cowled monks" and "hooded friars " breasting the tempests to wend their way to this srnall sanctuary; and might we not hear the solemn benediction and ave Maries mingling with the scream of the wild water-fowl, the sullen roar of the crested billows lashing the rent rocks ? Perchance many a tempest-tossed mariner has blessed the light streaming upon the wild dark waters from yonder eastern window which has guided him into safety, while devout souls within were engaged in evening prayers. And when the sullen waters were stilled, and lay smiling in their blue loveliness around, many a humble worshipper has heeded the summons of the vesper bell swinging in that simple turret, and has come to offer his thanksgiving within the lowly roof " with fervour no less and faith more pure than those whose dripping garments and votive offerings were wont, in still more ancient days, to be suspended in the splendid marble temples of the Pagan sea gods."
This ancient chapel consists of one compartment; its length is 31 feet, breadth 14 feet, height (side walls) about 10 feet. The thickness of the walls is 3 feet. It consists of a nave and chancel. At the west end is a simple bell turret. The east window is a lancet with a semi-circular head, deeply splayed, formed of small pieces of schist taken from the neighbouring
rocks, and set edgeways round the arch. At the west end, and also north and south of the chancel, are square-headed windows, At the south is a door with a semi-circular rubble head, surmounted by the plain bell turret; the door jambs are of rough blocks of limestone. Under the east window we may observe the foundation of a stone altar, and at the north-east angle are three stone steps. which may have served as an ambo or pulpit. The chapel is dedicated to St. Michael, from which saint the island is named. The most singular fact with regard to the erection of the chapel is, that there is no evidence of a tool having been used on any part of it, if we except the coping stones on the west gable. Attached to the chapel is an ancient cemetery, measuring 192 feet in length and 98 in breadth, which yet remains untouched by the plough, though many ancient graveyards in the island have been put to agricultural purposes. These roofless walls, from whose rough limestone crannies springs the delicate fern, while the kindly moss clothes and beautifies the aged grey stones, bear testimony of " the decay and primitive piety" which reared in wild and desolate regions houses of prayer. The graveyard contains many ancient graves, doubtless now lost in oblivion. In more modern days, and even in the memory of many inhabitants now living Roman Catholics have been buried there; while many an unknown shipwrecked sailor has found his last resting place with-in the hallowed precincts of this solitary graveyard.
Within the chapel ruins are the graves Of shipwrecked mariners, with rude carved stones Shewing- the names of some the stormy waves Have cast upon the coast ; hearsed are their bones Where the storm spirit a sad requiem moans."
Many of the tombstones have been destroyed in recent times, and many skulls and human remains have been disinterred. There remains one tombstone bearing a date so recent as 1849.
The superstitious natives say that if anyone strikes the outer wall of the ruined chapel and listens, he will hear a moan with-in and a noise like the jingling of money. The following beautiful legend of the good Father Kelly gave rise to this belief,
Long ago there was a famous priest who gave up all he possessed and came to teach Christianity to the poor Manx folk. He came from Ireland, and soon learned to talk to the people in their own tongue. He lived in a poor house at Derbyhaven, and was known as good Father Kelly. This priest had a kind heart and he loved the little children of the hamlet, while he was ever a friend to the poor, the sick, and the needy. In the winter he would gather the people together in the largest room of the hamlet, and the summer he would teach and preach to the fisher folk on the sea-shore. In a vision St. Michael appeared to him and pointed out a chapel on a flat space upon the grass close to the rocks of a small island across the bay. He saw a light shine through one of the windows, and on looking in he beheld himself kneeling before a beautiful costly altar, and the congregation were the fisher folk of Derbyhaven. He told his vision to the men, and proposed that they should build a small church on the island. They were full of admiration and followed the good father to the place where he had seen the chapel, when to ! they found the ground marked out where the foundations of the chapel now stand, and a border drawn some distance around to mark the graveyard, which you can now trace in the grass. The good father saw that his dream was from heaven, and he knelt down on the turf and prayed to St. Michael that the people would continue the good work until the chapel was finished. There was plenty of stone at hand, and the architecture was of the simplest kind. The walls were erected and the roof raised, but Father Kelly was sorely perplexed as to the manner in which he might provide the costly altar of his vision. The poor people of the hamlet had neither silver nor gold. Night after night he used to go to the chapel and pray to St. Michael to aid him. One night while prostrate in prayer he heard the sound of digging, and pauses, as if men were stooping to lay something in the ground, and then he heard the mould put back and someone stamp it down, and then he heard the voice of a man saying, " Foul weather is nigh, let us clear off these cursed rocks." Father Kelly heard men walk down to the water, and he distinguished the grating of a boat's keel, and heard the lap of the water as the men rowed away. He walked out of the chapel, into the night air, the moon was obscured by dark threaten-ing clouds, and he could not see a yard before him. He only heard the slow wash of the swell as the rising tide carried it into clefts among the rocks, with an occasional liquid flap as a wave ran into a sudden angle and then fell back upon itself. Rain fell in large splashes, and the wind roared with violence. With difficulty he managed to find his way and keep his footing back to Derbyhaven. The next day the good priest was sent for to bear the confession of a dying man. The storm had wrecked a ship during the night, and driven it on to the rocks, the crew were all drowned but one man, who was dragged out of the surf and carried to Derbyhaven. He was grievously cut and bruised by the rocks, and his back was broken. The man begged the priest to hear his dying confession, and with strange breaks and ramblings told of murders on high seas, and horrible tales of rapine and cruelty. His last crime was to steal a box of gold from the captain, and he and his companion in crime brought it to the chapel on St. Michael's Island, and buried it in the graveyard.
To whom did it belong?" asked the priest.
"God knows," answered the dying man. "There, take the gold and shrive me; I have confessed." And then the poor sinner fell back and died.
The chapel was finished, but not furnished, and the priest was often haunted by the costly altar of his vision. The words "take the gold" lived in his memory, and he strove earnestly within himself to assure himself that be might use it for his altar. It seemed to him that he might lawfully snatch it from the very devil himself to give it to St. Michael, the devil's chiefest enemy.
One moonlight night he searched the graveyard and found the treasure. He carried home the heavy box and broke it open. The shining gold pieces fell out in a glorious heap of wealth, and there was, moreover, a rich necklace of large pearls. The priest was in ecstacies : here was gold for his chapel, and jewels for the Madonna. The little church on the lonely islet was furnished, the altar was decked, the image of the Madonna was chiselled out of fair marble, and adorned with the string of rich pearls. The simple fisher folk never knew from whence the treasure came; they thought that the virgin herself had brought riches to the holy Father. Still in the priest's heart lingered an anxious unrest, and many a time he sat on the rocks gazing seaward, and wondered whether a curse might not overtake him.
One evening a strange vessel came round the point and dropped anchor in the harbour. Presently the priest was sent for to come and administer the last rites of the Church to a man who lay dying on board. The good Father went out in a small boat, but he never returned. The next morning the strange vessel was gone, and the people, in searching for their priest, found the chapel sacked, and over the altar in the cold grey of the morning was the corpse of their good Father, his face livid, and a knotted cord around his neck, in place of the image of the Madonna with her necklace of pearls.
The ship was the sister ship of the pirate vessel which had been wrecked here long mouths before. Some of the ship's crew had strolled into the little chapel and recognised the neck-lace as one of the costliest items of their lost treasure, and the summons to the priest was a ruse to be revenged on him. The chapel was never used again, so the legend runs ; it gradually became a ruin, and the roof fell in ; storms lashed the walls within as well as without. Moans are even now heard within the roofless walls on a wild night, and a jingling like the chinking of gold coins ; and on a still moonlight night the pale spirit of the holy father glides through the solitary chapel, and stands on the rocks gazing seawards.
At the northern extremity of this interesting islet are the ruins ot a circular embattled fort. These ruins are in a fair state of preservation, and the visitor can gain a good idea of its utility in troubled times,
Over the doorway is an oblong stone, with an Earl's coronet in relief, and date. '-the third and fourth figures of this date are almost obliterated, and various readings have been given. Feltham reads the date 1667, but this is plainly incorrect, for Chaloner, writing in 1653, speaks of it as being built by the late Earl of Derby. Train gives the date as 1663, and attributes this building to the wisdom and forethought of " Good Queen Bess" when she held the island, but the difficulty of the Earl's coronet and the statement of the contemporary Chaloner destroys this theory. The correct reading of the date is probably 1645, and from various data we may assign its erection to James, the great Earl of Derby, as a protection to tite barbour of Derbyhaven.
In the Rolls Office at Castletown the following document may be seen :--
" Liber scaccar, 1645. Castle Rushen. Be it recorded that James, Earl of Derby, Lord of Man, being in his lordship's fort in St. Michael's Isle, the 26th April, 1645, the day twelvemonths that the house of Lathom, having been besieged close near three months, and gallantly defended by the great wisdom and value of the illustrious lady, Charlotte, Countess of Derby; by her ladyship's direction the stout soldiers of Lathom did make a sallie and beate the enemie round out of all their works, saving one; and miraculously did bring the enemie's great mortar-piece out into the house, for which
the thanks and glorie is given unto God; and my lord doth name this fort 'Derby Fort.'
CHARLOTTE DELATREMOILLE"
The thickness of the walls is eight feet. We may enter by the massive iron-studded door, through a recess in the wall. It is said that when the enemy was storming the fort in troubled times, some of them sought to batter down the door to gain entrance. The ready-witted Manx warriors who bravely de-fended Derbyhaven harbour ascended the parapet, and removed stones from the wall in order to pour down melted lead upon the battering party without, and so dispersed them and saved the fort. The aperture through which the melted cannon balls were poured may yet be seen. On entering the circular interior of the fort we find ourselves at the foot of a worn and ancient stairway, by which we may gain the parapet on the wall. The parapet is five feet wide, and now the silent mosses and green grass, waving in the breeze, grow over the foot way from which issued, in those stirring warlike times, the steady tramp "of armed men." The battlements contain eighteen openings or embrasures, through which the visitor, treading the mossy wall, may glance and obtain a delightful view of the southern part of the Isle of Man. On a clear day Cronk-ny-Irey-Lhaa, Barrule, and the entire mountain range to Snaefell is distinctly visible. On the eastern side of the wall a turret has been raised in more recent times, to serve as a lighthouse, and during the herring season it was customary to keep a light burning from sunset to sunrise, to guide the fleet into Derbyhaven harbour. On ascending the wooden stairway a fine view may be obtained of the restless waves lashing the fantastic rocks, and foaming and billowing " unto the rolling meadows of amethyst melted away in mist." It is a wild and desolate scene upon a stormy day from this lonely turret, with no sound save the screaming of the sea birds, and the roar of the waves expending their fury upon the rocks.
Inside the fort are the roofless remains of two chambers. One was used as a kitchen by the soldiers of the fort, as the wide chimney and other evidences of culinary operation testify, The other was doubtless the sleeping apartment. There is a kind of courtyard, with recesses for the shelter of the soldiers.
Derby Fort completely commands the entrance into Derbyhaven Bay, therefore, in former times, the possession of this stronghold must have been of great importance when that port was the principal outlet for the produce of the south of the island. South of Derby Fort we many notice another earth fortification similar to the one on Hango Brough.
After recrossing the causeway, it will be well to proceed to Langness along the east side. The scenery is exquisitely picturesque as we pass a succession of frightful chasms and dark ravines, with treacherous outlying rocks, upon which many an unfortunate vessel has been torn and wrecked. These masses of schist are well developed, and the intrusive, igneous rocks well marked. The point of Langness consists of several rocks insulated at high water named " The Skerranes." On these rocks, in 1822, H.M. Sloop Racehorse was wrecked one dark December night. It is only within the last few years that the Northern Lighthouse Commissioners have caused to be erected a splendid lighthouse, beautifully fitted tip with every modern appliance. Wrecks were common before a warning light gave notice of this dangerous coast, with its cruel rocks surrounded by treacherous currents. 7 he " Grave Gully" is the scene of the wreck of the James Crossfield, a fine Indiaman, when her entire crew perished, consisting of 40 men. Their bodies were swept out to sea by the strong currents. A t the northern extemity of Langness the geologist has an excellent opportunity of studying the porphyritic greenstone, while traces of gravel terraces remain.
On the south-eastern side the old red conglomerate is to be seen lying unconformably upon the slaty schists. The scenery here is of extreme beauty, being wild and romantic. "The action of the sea dashing against the beds of the old red conglomerate, thus shattered by cross fracture, has carved out a series of sea-side grottos, romantic arches, and grotesque pillars and pinnacles of rock. The strata being of different degrees of hardness, and dipping at a low angle towards the centre of Castletown Bay, have suffered unequally from the destructive beat of the waves; and the erosion has been much greater upon some of the beds of conglomerate than on others, hence the strange variety of outline presented to our view. Uncouth faces, out-vying the poppy-heads, of mediaval architecture, seem to be grinning down upon you from every nook and cranny. Gigantic noses, gaping mouths fashioned out of the boulders, and white quartz pebbles, which protrude from the red mass of the conglomerate, topped with huge wigs of hoary lichen, moss and saxifrage, startle you on every side. There is one isolated mass which reminds one of the dons of our ancient English universities on commemorative days, in cap, wig, and scarlet robes; in fact, there is hardly an animal or figure which does not meet with its caricature amongst these romantic rocks. And the peep out through the archways, the cracks and the chasms in the rock upon the bay, and the country which backs it, is particularly pleasing." The stranger will experience delight when he lights upon the unexpected beauties of Langness. In the calm sunset of a summer's evening, nothing can excel the charms of sea and sky, mountains and rocks grouped picturesquely around. Before us, across the crimsoned waters, lies Castletown, with its grey old Castle, which reminds one so strongly of Elsinore; no breath of wind rages the motionless waters, which reflect all the glories of the golden west. Cronk-ny-Irey-Lhaa and Barrule lie in the distance, purple and majestic, wrapped in evening mist; and one can discern the white cottages which are scattered on the mountain side. A sail flaps idly here and there, and the lazy lap of the tide is the only sound which falls on the ear. The dark basaltic mass of Scarlet Stack seen lying unconformably upon the slaty schists. The scenery here is of extreme beauty, being wild and romantic. "The action of the sea clashing against the beds of the old red conglomerate, thus shattered hy cross fracture, has carved out a series of sea-side grottos, romantic arches, and grotesque pillars and pinnacles of rock. The strata being of different degrees of hardness, and dipping at a low angle towards the centre of Castletown Bay, have suffered unequally from the destructive heat of the waves; and the erosion has been much greater upon some of the beds of conglomerate than on others, hence the strange variety of outline presented to our view. Uncouth faces, out-vying the poppy-heads, of mediaval architecture, seem to be grinning down upon you from every nook and cranny. Gigantic noses, gaping mouths fashioned out of the boulders, and white quartz pebbles, which protrude from the red mass of the conglomerate, topped with huge wigs of hoary lichen, moss and saxifrage, startle you on every side. There is one isolated mass which reminds one of the dons of our ancient English universities on commemorative days, in cap, wig, and scarlet robes; in fact, there is hardly an animal or figure which does not meet with its caricature amongst these romantic rocks. And the peep out through the archways, the cracks and the chasms in the rock upon the bay, and the country which backs it, is par-ticularly pleasing." The stranger will experience delight when he lights upon the unexpected beauties of Langness. In the calm sunset of a summer's evening, nothing can excel the charms of sea and sky, mountains and rocks grouped picturesquely around. Before us, across the crimsoned waters, lies Castletown, with its grey old Castle, which reminds one so strongly of Elsirore ; no breath of wind ruffles the motionless waters, which reflect all the glories of the golden west. Cronk-ny-Irey-Lhaa and Barrule lie in the distance, purple and majestic, wrapped in evening mist; and one can discern the white cottages which are scattered on the mountain side. A sail flaps idly here and there, and the lazy lap of the tide is the only sound which falls on the ear.The dark basaltic mass of Scarlet Stack stands out, casting a dark shade on the shining waters. King William's College is seen distinctly behind the picturesque ruin on Hango Mount, and when the grey shadows of evening wrap the scene in its sombre mantle, the light on the Chickens Rock becomes visible. Before we leave Langness we must pay a visit to the splendid lighthouse, which now rears boldly and flashes its warning lights upon the bay.
Near the southern end of the peninsula, upon an elevated, rocky mound, is a round tower, possessing all the characteristics of those strange round towers which have puzzled Irish antiquarians. There is no evidence to prove that it has ever been used otherwise than as a landmark to warn mariners.
Proceeding in a northward direction along the coast, on the top of the cliffs, we shall reach the racecourse. This is especially interesting to Englishmen, as the origin of the original "Derby" now run on Epsom Downs.
James, the 7th Earl of Derby, " The Great Earl," succeeded to the royalty of Man in 1627, instituted races on the island on a piece of land extending rather more than a mile across the peninsula of Langness ; and a record in the Rolls' Office states that he gave a cup to be run for at these races, thus establishing the " Manx Derby," the precursor of that celebrated race "The Derby." The first English " Derby " was run in 1780.
Passing the racecourse and making our way along the sea shore, we shall find ourselves at the foot of a low cliff, about 27 feet in height, formed of boulder clay, and containing boulders and shells of the ordinary drift character. The low cliff is Hango Hill. Like the racecourse, it is " clothed with a short and sweet herbage, and crowded with wild flowers. The purple thyme creeps along the ground mixing with the, yellow flowers[21] of the trefoil and galium, and the vernal squill with its pale blue petals rears its graceful head, in spite of the stormy south-westers that sweep across the bay."
Upon the summit of Hango Hill is the remains of the grey old battlemented ruin of an ancient building, which was supposed to have been anciently used by the King of Man as a state prison, and it is especially famed as the place of execution of William Christian, the " Illiam Dhone " of Manx tradition.
The following entry may be found in the parish register of Malew. "Mr. William Christian of Ronaldsway, late Receiver, was shot at Hango Hill, the 2nd January, 1662. He died most penitently and most courageously ; made a good end, prayed earnestly, and the next day was buried in the chancel of Malew."
He surrendered the keys of the garrison to Oliver Cromwell's army. It is recorded that he met his death with fortitude. When the soldier wished to bind him, he said, " Trouble not yourselves for me, for I, that dare face death in whatever shape he comes, will not start at your fire and bullets; nor can the power you have deprive me of my courage." He then asked for a piece of white paper, which he placed on his breast. After engaging in a short prayer, he said to the soldiers, "Hit this and you do both your own and my work." He was then shot through the heart.
" From his brave heart welled streams of crimson gore,
Yet calm his face-no pang of pain it wore ;
He lay as placid as a child in sleep.
So fell the Manxmen in the days of yore.
They say his spirit nightly watch doth keep On Hango Hill."
The memory of the " fair-haired " William Dhone is held sacred by Manx people, and he is regarded as a martyr to the cause of liberty. Hango Hill is also known as Mount Strange. The name Hango is of Scandinavian origin, though some will have that it is so named from the fact that it was formerly used as a place of execution, The silent monitor Time has done its work on this spot. [22]Formerly there was a drive all round the crumbling old ruin, which was some 50 yards inland, but the cliff has yielded to time and tide, and has fallen away.
" Naked stand the melancholy walls
Lash'd by the wintry tempests cold and bleak,
Which piecemeal crumble down the whole to dust."
In ancient days there was a burying place on this mount, and as the cliff has fallen down, the graves have been exposed to view, and " skeletons have become the sport of the rolling surge." These skeletons may be the mortal remains of criminals, but skeletons have been found under the very foundations of the ruin. Some have been inclined to believe that this is one of the ancient tumuli which are found in various parts of the island. Geologists tell us that once there was a line of cliff extending from Langness point to the Stack at Scarlet, therefore the eroding action by the waves has sculptured out Castletown Bay. From old maps we may conclude that at least sixty feet have been destroyed during the last 200 years, that is, one yard in ten years ; and at this rate it must have taken 50,000 years for the elements to scoop out Castletown Bay. Those who are interested in the fate of William Christian may turn to the appendix to the introduction of Scott's " Peveril of the Peak," where they may find a translation of a lament for " fair-haired William," in the Manx language.
King William's College is opposite Hango Hill. It was built in 1833, and named after William IV. It is a cruciform structure, the transept being the Chapel of St. Thomas. There is a fine library and museum in connection with it. Canon Farrer was educated here, and his " Eric " deals with his school-boy life, and one can easily see that he greatly appreciated the beauty of Castletown Bay and its surroundings.
Castletown is about a mile and a half from St. Michael's Island, The visitor may get out at Castletown Station and avail himself of a delightful drive along Castletown Bay, passing the College,Hango Hill, the Racecourse, and then, taking advantage of the new road to St. Michael's Island, may drive along Derbyhaven Bay to this historic islet of the south.
Castletown is so ancient that its origin is lost in the mists of antiquity. It is probable that during the Roman period a considerable town existed here. It is a fact beyond dispute that this little town, with its grey stone houses and winding streets, is one of the oldest towns in Great Britain. The grey and ancient pile known as Castle Rushen was probably built by Guthred, the first Manx King under the Danes, in 947. In structure it resembles the Danish Castle of Elsinore, of the " melancholy Hamlet." It is an imposing old pile, with a solemn majesty about it, and a solidity of masonry betokening great strength. Bravely has it weathered the storms of a thousand winters, and it yet stands "simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime," without a stone displaced. In these days it is used as the jail of the island. Says a modern poet
The Castle keep is now the island jail,
'To what vile uses may we not return ?'
Here, where the warrior clanked in coat of mail,.
Debtors and criminals, confined, sojourn."
M. A. BACKWELL, PRINTER, CASTLETOWN.
The little guide was the first published work of Catharine Isabella Dodd - Cubbon decribes it as rare and estimates publication date as c.1882 - there are two states (the text remained unchanged) distinguished by the many adverts which comprise half the booklet - what is presumably the first printing has two pages of small adverts for local tourist accomodation - the other state has more off-Island advertisers including one that quotes a letter dated 1889 - the memorial sketch of the life of C I Dodd places it c.1888 which I suspect is a more accurate date than Cubbon's.
The back page of the cover decribes(in a many fonts) the other 'attractions' -
PLEASURE RESORT.
The very Latest and Most Unique Day Resort in the Isle of Man
The only Uninhabited Island containing a Fortress and Chapel.
Every Tourist should visit this charming Resort. Purest Sea Air! Clear Water! Majestic Rocks! Magnificent Sea and Land Views!
SPLENDID BATHING, BOATING, AND FISHING. INTERESTING OLD FORT & ANCIENT CHAPRL. AMUSEMÉNTS--
INCLUDING ARCHERY, CRICKET, SWINGS. &c.,
FREE OF CHARGE. AMERICAN SHOOTING GALLERY.
The peculiar situation of Fort Island and adjoining Pleasure Grounds affords an opportunity of obtaining the
FINEST POSSIBLE PANORAMA OF THE ISLE OF` MAN,
The whole of the Mountain Range being visible, from the Calf of Man to North Barrule.
A LANDING PIER suitable for all states of the tide is provided for small Steamers and Yachts.
One hour from Douglas by Water, (the sail along the coast being delightful.) Ten miles by road from Douglas. Ten minutes'
drive from Castletown Station. Steamers from Douglas. Cars meet all trains at Castletown.
A Grand Circular Tour can be made from Douglas-by Steamer to Fort Island, thence by car or walks to Castletown, train to
Port Erin, and train to Douglas, or vice versa.
FREQUENT REGATTAS AND ATHLETIC SPORTS for particulars of which see special advertisements.
LUNCHEONS, DINNERS, TEAS, at any hour, provided in the Spacious Refreshment Rooms.
ALES, WINES. AND SPIRITS. of the finest quality at usual prices. MILK, BUTTER, and EGGS, Fresh Daily from the adjoining
Farm. Picnic Parties, School Treats, &c., catered for on Moderate Terms A Large Private Dining Room may be had on application;
ADMISSION TO THE GROUNDS FREE.
GOOD STABLING IN THE GROUNDS.
G. F. DODD, Manager.
The Island would appear to be a development by the Dodd family -
A simplified tree is shown below - John Kelly + wife kept a public house at Derbyhaven
1816
John Kelly = Catharine Killey
1778-1850 |
|
+---------+------+--+-----+---------+---------+--------+
| | | | | | |
Elizabeth Cath Isable Maria Christian Thomas Jane
1823| |
| |
1850 | | 1855
John Taggart = ---+ +--- = Thomas Milner Dodd
| |
o +--+------+---------+---------+
.. | ... | |
Christian_Isabella George F Thomas_Milner
Isable married John Taggart who became a successful licenced grocer in Castletown - however the marriage appeares to have been childless and they would appear to have 'adopted' a child of Isable's sister Christian who had married Thomas Dodd - all their children were it seems born in England (in 1881 Christian + family were in Staffordshire) though Thomas can be found from a very young age with the Taggarts - he inherited the business at an early age following the death of John Taggart and rose to considerable prominence in Castletown before his relatively early death. Thomas M Dodd and his two twin sons Basyl_Fielding and Ronald_Fielding all attended King William's College - R F Dodd became an architect and he designed the War Memorial at KWC.
|
|
||
|
|
||
|
|
||
|
Any comments, errors or omissions gratefully received The
Editor |
||