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[from Brown's Popular Guide, 1887]
From Douglas to Ballacraine, 8 miles; Glen Helen and Rhenass, 10 miles ; Kirk Michael Village, 14¾ miles; Ramsey, 24¼ miles ; Douglas, 40 miles.
As an entire day should be devoted to this excursion and as the journey is a long one (fully 40 miles, if continued on from Ramsey to Douglas), an early start is by all means recommended. There are two routes from Douglas to Ramsey and the north of the Island - one known as "The Long Road," leading through or past the places at the head of this chapter ; and the other known as '' The Short Road", leading through Onchan, Lonan, Laxey, and Maughold. the distance by the latter route is scarcely 16 miles. "The Long Road," as an "outing," and as an excursion, is decidedly the best, leading, as it does, through scenery of almost unsurpassed beauty. The first 10 miles of the journey - viz., from Douglas to Ballacraine, and on to Glen Helen - have been described in our chapters "To Peel by Road" [page 113],
Immediately after passing the entrance gates to Glen the road winds up a lengthy and steep ascent for the space of a mile or more, at the commencement of which the scenery is scarcely equalled elsewhere in the Island. Crumbling crags are seen on all sides, and the brawling brook by the left makes itself heard, although it can only very seldom be seen. This is Craig Willie's Hill, and the highest point in the road is "Cronk-y-Voddey" (the Hill of the Dog). The hill on the left is called " The Vaish," and directly in the rear is Bearey Mountain.
A little further north are a chapel-of-ease, parsonage, and small school-house. The chapel is known as " Cronk-y-Voddey," and is a chapel-of ease to the parish of German.
Passing over the brow of the hill, the view commands a wide expanse, with a glimpse of the distant sea, and now and then a glance of Scotland, who exhibits herself at her nearest point, the Mull of Galloway, distant some score of miles. Several neighbouring parishes of the Island are clearly discernible from this lofty elevation, and the adjacent mountains on the north-east are prominent objects of interest to the beholder. When descending this hill, a good view is had of Sartfell, Slieu-ny-Fraughane, and Slieu Curn mountains, and of a fine stretch of country to the north of the Island. Jurby Point is visible ; and, over the sea, the Mourne Mountains (in Ireland) loom in the distance. On the left is Glen Mooar, in the upper part of which is the Spoot-y-Vane Waterfall (English, the White Cascade).
In a short distance, the hamlet of Baregarrow is reached, a place possessing peculiar interest for Dissenters from the fact that the great divine, John Wesley, stayed here for a period. Directly after leaving Baregarrow the highroad changes its characteristics by becoming almost level, and it continues so pretty nearly right on to Ramsey. The view at this point is particularly pleasing, many of the nice little snug farms lying, as it were, in a dish in the mountains, and screened by the high land opposite from the shivering blasts of the sou'-west gales.
Immediately after passing Baregarrow is seen, close to the road, a notable mound, upon which is an observatory, and beyond that a flagstaff. This, and the little recherché domain adjoining, is known as Cronk Urleigh (or the Hill of the Eagle). It has been immemorably celebrated as the original "Tynwald Hill" (or " Hill of Reneurling"), from the top of which new laws in ancient times were promulgated, and upon which were held the periodical visitations, in full state and style, of the King, Council, and Keys of the Island when under the dominant rule of the celebrated Stanley family, at and before the time of the Commonwealth of Great Britain. The residence attached hereto was erected early this century by a former bishop of the diocese (Cregeen). A little further on is a bye-road leading past several pretty homesteads, and continuing to the gorge in the mountains near thereto, wherein are the workings of an abandoned lead mine.
Immediately before entering Kirk Michael village, the first complete view of the Irish Sea is obtained. Both land and sea views hereabout are surpassingly fine. On the right is" Erinville," the property of the Buchan family ; whilst opposite, at a little distance, is the lovely valley known as Glen Wyllin, beautifully planted with magnificent evergreens, spruce, firs, oaks, &c. The view of this little glen from the road is excellent, but a closer inspection will amply compensate for the trouble. The stream is formed from two mountain torrents which unite in the glen, one rising in the hill behind Cronk Urleigh, named Sarttell, and the other in Sleu-ny-Fraughane.
The Court House is the first building reached at Kirk Michael village, close to which is the Mitre Hotel, and a little further down the Northern Railway Hotel.
The episcopal village of Kirk Michael is well supplied with sundry shops, post-office, &c. The parish church, which was rebuilt in 1835, is one of the largest in the Island.
The only objects of interest in the village are the ancient monuments and cross and the last resting places of Bishops Wilson, Hildesley, and Cregeen. On the tombstone of the former prelate there is the following inscription : -
"SLEEPING IN JESUS, HERE LIETH THE BODY OF THOMAS WILSON, D.D., LORD BISHOP OF THIS ISLE, WHO DIED MARCH 17TH, 1755, AGED 93, IN THE 58fH YEAR OF HIS CONSECRATION. THIS MONUMENT WAS ERECTED BY HIS SON, THOMAS WILSON, D.D., A NATIVE OF THIS PARISH, WHO, IN OBEDIENCE TO THE EXPRESS COMMANDS OF HIS WORTHY FATHER, DECLINES GIVING HIM THE CHARACTER HE SO JUSTLY DESERVES. Ler THIS ISLAND SPEAK THE REST."
There are several Runic monuments in the churchyard, on some of which inscriptions have been cut, while on others there are only rude carvings of animals. Some of them are decorated with different designs and ornamental forms, and the whole collection is amongst the most interesting to be found on the Island. Mr Cumming says that there are no fewer than seven Runic monuments or fragments of monuments in or about the graveyard of Kirk Michael.
The tall monument on the right hand side at the entrance of the churchyard bears the following inscription in Runes, carved along the edge of the stone from the bottom upwards :
"JUALFIR : SUNR : THURULFS : EINS : RAUTHA ; RISTA : CRUS : THONO : AFT : FRITHU : MUTHUR : SiNO:"
i.e, Joalf, the son of Thorolf the Red, erected this cross to his mother Frida.
The cross, which was dug up more than one hundred years ago in the vicar's glebe, is beautifully carved with elaborate knot-work, and sculptured with various beasts of the chase and domestic animals.
On the north side of the gate, partly buried in the wall, is across bearing somewhat of the Irish character, with a harper, dog, stag, and two rudely carved human figures carrying weapons. The inscription is remarkable, and it contains only Celtic names, engraved in a dialect and character differing from the rest of the inscriptions now found on the Island.
The inscription is much worn, and in places somewhat uncertain, though the reading, perhaps, may be -
"NIAL : LUMKUN : RAISTI : CRUS: THANA: FETIR : MAL: MURU : FUSTRA : SON : OK : DOTIR : DUFGALS : KONA: 0S: ASTHISI : ATI :"
i.e., Niel Lumkin ereeted this cross to Malmor, (his) foster-son, and the daughter of Dugald the Keen, whom Athisi had (to wife
Professor Miinch, of Christiana, reads Mal for Véad, and Lufkals for Dafgals, and translates - " Mal Lumkun and the daughter of Lufkal the Keen, whom Athisi had to wife, raised this cross to Malmor, his foster-father." It is said that a son of Niel, by name Malmor, together with his brother Dufgal or Dugald, fell in the battle at Tynwald Hill in 1238. We may believe that this monument is in some way connected with that event, and that Niel, the father of Malmor and Dugald, joined with the daughter of Dugald in erecting the cross to the memory of the slain.
On the south side of the gate, on the wall, is another beautiful cross, interesting from the circumstance that the maker's name is given, and the statement that he was the artist of most of the crosses of that era in Man. 'There are no figures on the cross, but some elaborate interlacings. The inscription, extremely plain, is -
'MATL : BRIGDI : SUNR : ATHAKANS : SMITH : RAISTI : CRUS : THANO : FUR : SALU: SINI: SIN: BRUKUIN: GAUT : GIRTHI : THANO : AUK: ALA : IMAUN :"
i.e, Malbrigd, son of Athakan (the) smith, erected this cross for his soul; but his kinsman Gaut made this (cross) and all in Man.
Several fragments of crosses are also built into the church- yard wall. One of them has simply the Runes - 'KRUS : THAN : AFTIR :" Z.2., this cross to. Another bears the inscription - "SUAK : RISTI : CRUS : THNA : EFT: RUMUN :" zé., Suag erected this cross to Hromon; and, the other fragment, the letters NT.
The first name, Suag, is uncertain, and may be Svig or Grim. We have the name Grim or Grims on the fragment of another beautifully carved cross in the vestry of the church, in an inscription the sole remains of which are -
GRIMS : INS : SUARTA :"
ie. Grims the Black. Near Bishop Wilson's tomb is a finely carved cross without inscription, but bearing four singular dragon-shaped animals, with knotted tails.
Kirk Michael has been for years past the favourite residence of retired gentlemen. The neighbourhood is remarkably healthy ; the coast admits of excellent sea fishing and bathing ; and the country is picturesque and romantic. In the vallage is a small school-house; and round the neighbourhood are several extensive landowners and tenant farmers.
The shore at Kirk Michael is approached by several interesting glens, through which small streams of water are constantly flowing, and in which trout of a fair size are frequently caught. The beach is mainly composed of fine sand and gravel, and is particularly favourable to sea bathing. If such a beach were near to any populous place, its praises would be lauded through the land, and the really salubrious village would soon be full to overflowing with resident gentry, for it is proverbially known as the " Madeira" of the Island. After passing through the village, which is of considerable extent, the ''Whitehouse," the residence of the Gell family, is very observable, beautifully embowered in imber of magnificent growth, and noticeable for its fields of great extent and fertile soil.
Less than a mile further is " Bishop's Court," the residence of the Bishop of Sodor and Man. It is plentifully surrounded by trees ; and the grounds are laid out with taste. The "palace" has no architectural pretensions, and the chapel, which is, at the east end of the building, is comfortable, without any attempt at luxurious fittings or arrangement. The land surrounding the " Court" is very fertile. A small stream, flowing from the neighbourhood of Ballacooley, passes through the Bishop's demesne, and forms what is usually called the " Bishop's Glen." Speaking of Bishop's Court, Mr Cumming says : - We have historical evidence that it was the residence of Bishop Simon, the builder of the choir of Peel Cathedral, as early as 1230. It appears in Chaloner as in part a castellated building. It bore the name of Orry's Tower, and is said to have been surrounded by a moat. Considerable alterations have been made in it in modern times. The see having been vacant five years, Bishop Wilson, on his arrival, found the episcopal palace almost a ruin. One of his first works was the repair of the building. His own simple account of the place is : "A good house and chapel (if not stately yet convenient enough), large gardens and pleasant walks, sheltered with groves of fruit and forest trees." The avenue of elm-trees to the north of the palace is said to have been planted with his own hands. Walking in this avenue after evening prayers, in his 93rd year, on a damp day at the close of winter, he caught a cold which terminatedin his death. His coffin was made from the trunk of a tree which he had set in the earlier days of his episcopacy. His memory is still held in great reverence, both on account of his singular and exalted piety, his earnest endeavours for the spiritual welfare of the people entrusted to his charge, and also for the great temporal and civil blessings which he conferred upon the Island during his episcopacy of more than 57 years. The Act of Settlement of 1703, which has been termed the Manx Magna Charta, was granted mainly through his interest with the Earl of Derby.
After leaving Bishop's Court, we proceed through a pleasing part of the Island to the village of Ballaugh, around which are several pretty residences. There is nothing remarkably noticeable about the village itself. With the exception of the land to the right of the road, the parish is exceedingly flat. But it is very pretty and clean-looking.
Many years since, several fine specimens of the fossil elk of antediluvian antiquity were found in the bogs of Ballaugh, and huge trunks and roots of ebonized oak have been brought to light, which must have lain in their oozy beds probably for many thousands of years. Ina marl pit on the farm of Ballaterson, in Ballaugh, was discovered the skeleton of the Cervus Megaceros, or the great elk. It was presented to the British Museum by the Duke of Athol. The marl pits are situated in depressions in the soil, usually "basin-shaped," and are generally, says Cumming, in the drift-gravel terrace which once connected the Isle of Man with the surrounding countries. They are overlaid with peat, in which are fre- quently found trunks of trees, and also stone axes and other relics of the ancient inhabitants of the Island.
A little beyond Ballaugh, a view is had on the right into Ravensdale, with Siieu Dhoo (the Black Mountain) at the head ; and, on the left, the eye ranges over a wide éxtent of land, spreading out as far as the Point of Ayre, the most prominent objects being Jurby, Ballaugh, Andreas, and St. Jude's. The road now winds through a well-wooded district, at the foot of Gob-y-Volley hill, which rises up to a consider- able height on the right. About two miles trom Ballaugh we reach Sulby Village, and close by is the entrance to the beautitul and picturesque Sulby Glen.
Continuing our journey towards Ramsey, half a mile's ride brings us towards the new Sulby village ; and, while crossing the bridge going over the Sulby river, we get the first glimpse of Ramsey, and of a windmill close to the town. A few yards beyond the bridge, is the Ginger Hall Inn. There is a bye-road here, on the right, leading, by way of the Claddagh, to Sulby Glen. The main road from Ginger Hall Inn to Ramsey is through a richly cultivated country, the range of hills on the right being on the estate of Glentram- mon (or the glen of the trammons, or elderberries, in the stem of which the fairies were said to dwell). In a short distance we come to a bye-road which leads to Lezayre Church, situated at the foot of the historic Sky Hill. On the opposite side of the road is Ballakillinghan, one of the mansions of the Farrant family. Soon afterwards, North Barrule and the Albert Tower appear in sight ; and immediately afterwards we get a view up Glen Aldyn, a road branching to the right leading to the beautiful villa of Milntown. We are now in what is called the Lezayre-road ; and, passing along between Albion and Lezayre-terraces, we enter Ramsey by way of Parliament-street.
In the Ramsey section of " The Popular Guide" will be found a full description of Ramsey and of the various objects of interest and excursions in the district. Our advice is that the tourist who has time at his disposal should make a stay in the town, and "do" the excursions we describe in that section.
Should the visitor, however, after a brief stay in Ramsey for refreshment, decide on proceeding straight on to Douglas, he will leave the town by the Waterloo-road, crossing the Ballure Bridge, with the mountain of North Barrule on the right, and with magnificent views of the ever changing sea on the left. As we pass over Ballure Bridge, we get a peep up the lovely Ballute Glen, with trees and rocks completely ivy-clad. As the hill (Slieu Lewaigue) is ascended, we get a view of Ramsey bay, extending almost to the Point of Ayre ; and, if the weather is fine, the mountains of the south of Scotland and the Cumberland hills will be distinctly visible. About a mile from Ramsey, a road diverges to the left. This leads to Maughold Church, and to the creeks of Port-e-Vullen and Port Lewaigue. These creeks are separated by a bold promontory called Gob-na-Runnah. Off the headland is a sea-surrounded rock called the Stack Moar. About three miles from Ramsey is the Hibernian Inn, and from here there is a mountain road, leading off on the right, up into North Barrule mountain. :
Soon after leaving the Hibernian, the road descends to a small village, with a mill and a Wesleyan chapel. This hamlet is called The Coranny, or Cornay. Close to are Glen Mona and the Rhenab Waterfall ; and a little turther on are Ballaglass Valley and Waterfall. On reaching the top of the hill from here, a view is had up the Cornay Glen and of North Barrule. High up the glen is the Slieu Choar moun- tain. We soon atterwards pass some granite quarries and the entrance to the Dhoon Glen. The road here takes a turn to the left. That to the right leads over the higher land, and joins the former road a little above Laxey. That to the left is, however, recommended for choice. A few miles further brings us to the entrance to the Laxey Glen. The view turning round into the Laxey valley is very beautiful, the white cottages dotting both the precipitous sides of the glen, the giant waterwheel in the distance, the busy scene below on the washing floors of the Great Laxey Mine ; and away up the valley the mountains of Snaefell, Slieu Choar, and Pen-y-Phot - all combine to make a scene which, for picturesque beauty, could not be surpassed in the three kingdoms.
Laxey, and the road from Douglas to it, is described in full in the next chapter.
The views between Laxey and Onchan are really fine. On arriving at the latter village we have a choice of two roads to Douglas, one by the shore ; the other leading past the residence of the Governor, and on to higher Douglas.
Douglas to Laxey 7½ miles; Laxey to Ramsey, 8 miles; total, 15½ miles.
This is a popular journey, but, as we said before, it scarcely equals in interest "The Long Road to Ramsey." Our description will answer either for the shorter and more frequently made journey on this line, viz., that to Laxey, or, for the longer journey, that extending on from Laxey to. Ramsey. Should the return journey from Ramsey to Douglas be made by " The Long Road," our readers must then simply reverse the order of description given in the preceding chapter.
We leave Douglas either by the Shore Road and Burnt Mill Hill, or (if we reside in the upper part of the town) by the road leading past Glencrutchery and Government House. Both roads lead to Onchan Village, and have been described in the earlier portions of "The Popular Guide." Passing through Onchan Village (the church being on the right), we descend the White Bridge Hill, at the foot of which the White Bridge crosses the Growdale stream. It is from the upper portion of this stream that Douglas obtains its supply of water, pronounced unequalled for its purity. Ascending the hill on the other side, we come to the Halfway Houses. (there are two.)
Having passed the second Halfway House about half a mile we descend a steep hill to the junction of a narrow lane on our right hand, exactly opposite to the second mile-stone trom Laxey (fifth from Douglas). Passing down the lane a few yards, a gate upon the right admits us to a field in which, within a few yards from us, stands a remarkable monument of antiquity, bearing the modern name of the "Cloven Stones," but probably it is one of the most ancient memorials of which Manxland can boast, pointing to the time before the Scandinavians and Norsemen had settled here, and when the Welsh were struggling for power in this Island. Here was constructed a cairn said to mark the last resting place of a Welsh prince, who landed at Laxey, or Garwick, with the intention of conquering the Island, but met with a lasting peace in this quiet sequestered spot. Much of the cairn has been destroyed during the long ages which have elapsed since its construction, and now the only interesting portions are two tall upright rocks, one of which has a large longi- tudinal fissure extending from the top almost to the ground.
In common with other cairns on the Island the Cloven Stones have their legends and traditions ; one of these being that every time the split rock hears the sound of Kirk Lonan Church bell, the two sides clap together for joy, and although the joke is perceptible (for stones can't hear), there are people living in the parish who have carefully watched the rocks Sunday after Sunday in the vain hope of witnessing the extraordinary phenomenon. In Wood's "Isle of Man " (1811) it is stated that he saw twelve stones here placed in an oval form, the two tall stones being situated at one end of the oval, facing N.N.E., and the mount on which all the stones stood was from 3 to 4 ft. high. The centre of the mound had connected with this cairn : - '' The proprietor of the land on which they rest being desirous of removing them (the stones), took some labourers to effect his purpose. Being arrived at the stones, and looking back, he saw his house on fire, and consequently returned in haste. Having arrived at home he found his house as it should be, but saw the Cloven Stones on fire. The man was too wise to disregard so clear an omen, and the stones have ever since remained undisturbed."
Glen Gawne and Garwick Pleasure Grounds should be visited by the tourist before passing on. The glen itself is a good specimen of the smaller coast ravines for which the Island is so famous, and its pretty, brawling rivulet forms several fine cascades in its course to sea. The glen opens on to a wild, rocky creek under the northern shoulder of Clay Head, from which some splendid views are obtained of the rugged headland to the south, and of the high, precipitous coast of Laxey Bay to the north (as represented in our illustration, p. 179), with the blue, sparkling sea in front, and, in clear weather, the Cumbrian Mountains in the distance. The cliffs around contain some fine sea-caves, one of which is especially interesting from its legendary connection with the unfortunate Duchess of Gloucester, who, it Is said, took refuge in it in an attempt to escape from her cruel confinement in Peel Castle. Good roads have been made by the proprietors through the glen and along the shore at the foot ot the cliffs to the Duchess Eleanor's Cave, and refreshments can be had at the picturesque refreshment house at the entrance gate.
Passing out of the glen, and climbing the Baldrine Hill, we obtain a fine view of Garwick Creek and Clay Head, and, in front, of Laxey Bay and old village, with the old village beyond. We now follow the read until the steep descent is reached which leads to the village of Laxey proper, or, as it now called, Old Laxey, a cluster of ancient-looking yet substantial buildings erected on the margin of the bay and at the mouth of the river. Laxey valley and village are considered to be very beautiful, and certainly, from some points of observation, the view is extremely picturesque.
In the old Norse language, "Laxa" or " Laxvoe" signifies the Salmon River, and, in former times, the stream abounded with this fish, and even yet trout are occasionally caught in the bay, though the impurities washed down from the mines have poisoned the river, and rendered it uninhabitable by its former finny denizens. On the northern headland several extensive caverns may be visited by boat ; and, on the beach, there is a fountain of spring water which bears the name of Lord Henry's Well. :
Further southward, but at no great distance, some very remarkable tortuous and convoluted rocks of evident volcanic origin will repay a visit, and prove of great interest to the geologist, more especially as they are surrounded by huge detached blocks of iron-stone which have rolled down the cliffs,
After visiting the pier, the tramway, used for conveying the stuff from the mines to the port, may be followed to the old bridge, which is said to have been first constructed by the Romans, and, from thence, a so-called Roman road ascends the precipitous hill, and is continued forward in the direction ot Ramsey. Amongst a cluster of trees at the foot of this hill formerly stood the old treen oratory called Keeil Nicholas ; and the Chibber Nicholas, or Saint Nicholas's Well, is still in use. Resuming the line of the tramway, and proceeding up the glen, some of the most delightful scenery in Lonan (the parish in which Laxey is situated) is spread before the eye. Two old paper-mills, now converted into woollen-mills on Mr Ruskin's system, stand on the opposite bank of the river, at a good distance apart. Should the visitor wish to make a closer acquaintance with them, a footpath at the end of the Shore Inn, in old Laxey, will conduct him there.
Proceeding to the head of the glen, we arrive at the junction of two roads, between which, on an elevation thickly planted with firs, stands Christ Church, erected for the use of the miners, and, internally, one of the handsomest religious edifices in Man. Taking the road to the right, we soon reach the washing-floors connected with the Great Laxey Mines.
Following the road in the direction of "The Big Wheel," which we now see before us, we shall observe, on our right hand, the tramway running along the opposite side of the stream in the valley below, and entering a cavern-like opening in the brow of the opposite hill. Still turther on, we cross the stream near a small weir and picturesque bridge, forming an excellent foreground to the view of the wheel from this point. A few yards further, and we. arrive at the wheel, "The Lady Isabella," as it is named - the proud boast of Manxmen, who look upon this huge piece of native mechanism SS ~with «an excusable feeling of intense satisfaction.
Though the mines have been worked for some hundreds of years, it was not until modern times that their resources have been fully developed. On the 27th September, 1854, the Lady Isabella made her first turn, and since then has been almost constantly at work, being stopped only for the necessary painting, &c. The diameter of the wheel is 72 feet 6 inches; breadth, 6 feet ; circumference, about 217 feet ; and the number of revolutions, two per minute when required, by which it raises over 250 gallons of water per minute, from a depth of fully 300 fathoms. The wheel is an overshot, and is so truly set that not theslightest deflection can be detected. The water to supply the wheel is brought in pipes from reservoirs upon the moun- tains, and ascends through the circular white pillar to the top of the wheel ; round this pillar there is a winding staircase, which the majority of visitors ascend, although a walk of a few yards up the road will enable the beholder to enjoy the scene equally well and with much less discomfort, as the wheel often produces giddiness, and even worse consequences. Some 600 hands are employed in these mines, raising large quantities or rich silver lead ore, about 500 tons per month of blende ore or black jack, and a variable quantity of copper.
From the mines a direct road of three or four miles" length will conduct us to the top of Snaefell, the highest mountain in Man, and the most central point of the British Islands, which attains an altitude of 2,034 feet ; the view from the summit embracing an area of 3,000 square miles, within which are portions of England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland, and the whole of Man. The visit to Snaefell, however, ought to be made a special occasion, and for this purpose it is best to remain all night at one of the inns in Laxey, and then ascend the mountain at an early hour in the morning. The less elevated, but more isolated hill, at the head of Glenroy, known as Cairn Gharjohl, is also deserving of a visit, and may be taken on the return from Snaefell.
Leaving the " big wheel," we again descend to the washing-floors, and here, turning to the right, soon reach the entrance to Laxey Glen Gardens. For this latest improvement to an already picturesque and delightful locality the public are indebted to Mr R. Williamson, merchant, of Laxey, the proprietor, who, at a great expense, has planted and beautified the grounds which form the entrance to Glen Roy, and has so laid out the glen itself, in quiet shaded walks and sequestered nooks and corners, that there are few spots in the Island surpassing these grounds for picturesque beauty. Passing through the gates, our attention is imme- diately attracted by the ornamental flower beds, of varied design, which border the bifurcating paths leading to the right and left. Following one of these paths, which are all well gravelled with crushed Laxey stone, we gain a long open verandah, formed of green trellis work for the most part, but divided in front into arches of rustic woodwork, surmounted by a frieze of pinnacles of similar construction. _ A little beyond this, we reach the refreshment room, a neat Swiss-like building, constructed chiefly of wood and glass. The interior is open to the roof, and is stained and varnished ina similar manner to that of the railway station at Douglas. Attached to the refreshment-room is a large hall, suitable for concerts, &c., which will accommodate 600 persons. Proceeding still further, we reach the curve ot the road ; and, seeing a light rustic arch a short distance away, on our right, we cross over the green sward, and enter the more secluded and romantic portion of the grounds, of which we may almost say (quoting Beaumont and Fletcher) : -
Here be woods as green
As any ; air, likewise, as fresh and sweet
As when smooth Zephyrus plays on the fleet
Force of the curled stream with flowers as many
As the young spring gives, and as choice as any.
Here be all her delights, cold streams and wells,
Arbours overgrown with woodbine, caves and dells;
Choose where thou wilt.
Here we find most picturesque walks and most sequestered seats, the most charming scenery, and, taken collectively, the most attractive portions of the grounds. Descending by a winding path, sheltered and o'erhung by luxuriant foliage of every shade of green, we reach the banks of the river in the very bottom of the glen, and here we find bowling alleys, swings for children, quoits, and other innocent attractions, all collected in a spacious level piece of ground. Crossing one of two bridges over the stream, we reach a more rugged piece of land, in which ferns and wild shrubs abound. A few turf-covered seats formed from the hollow of the hill of Grawe; a rippling, swift-flowing "race" which supplies the neigh- bouring mill ; and a thickly wooded plantation of fir in our rear, all add peculiar charms to this extreme end of the gardens. But, beyond those, there are beauties untold. There, to our left, rises the majestic peak of Cairn Gharjohl, with the Runic cross, and the old, old graves of Glen Roy at its base. Yonder away is the estate of Ballaquine, with its old treen oratory, of which it is said, when a man would have removed it, " wheels of fire" rolled before his eyes, and made him desist. And then, if we rest ourselves in one of the grassy seats just alluded to, and look around, we have the extensive and well wooded slopes, rising up towards Baldhoon, before us, a group of old thatched Manx cottages, with their little gardens and rustic outbuildings on our right, and, behind us, a noble plantation of flourishing pines bend their boughs to wind and whistle with the passing breeze. Then, retracing our steps and following the path near the bank of the river, we re-enter the artificial portion of the ground, and reach an admirable croquet and lawn tennis lawn of oval form, hollowed out from the side of the hill, as level as a billiard table, to say nothing of its green being more purely vernal. The slope of the hill rising from this ground has been well laid down with fresh sods, and the spectator, taking his seat here, can watch the players without the slightest obstruction. Then, beyond the croquet ground, we have more flower-beds, more shrubs, more seats, more picturesque views for the delighted eye to look uponin Laxey Glen Gardens ; but, when we have said this, we have by no means said all that may be said in their praise.
From the gardens we take a saunter, if time will permit, up the road leading past the end of the Working Men's Institute, and proceed to a narrow lane which will conduct us into the secluded recesses of Glen Roy,a lovely sequestered dell, whose banks are luxuriant with wild-flowers and ferns, and whose rippling stream is alive with trout. ;
Should the tourist return to Douglas instead of going on to Ramsey, the return journey may be varied by taking a road to the left which will be seen just before the half-way house is reached. By this means the old parish church of Lonan and the beautiful creek of Growdale may be visited. The church is one of the smallest and most primitive in the Island. The roof has fallen in, and both the building and the graveyard have been sadly neglected. In the churchyard is a large "wheel cross," very like that in Braddan churchyard. Leaving, the church, a steep hill leads to Growdale, which is well worth visiting, there being some magnificent rock scenery in the district. The road from Growdale joins the main read at Onchan, and, from here, the return to Douglas will not occupy many minutes. :
Should we, instead of returning to Douglas, continue our course towards Ramsey, we return to the washing-floors, and, going up the hill, and passing the National School, soon arrive at the point where the old (not the oldest) road from Laxey to Ramsey crosses the modern one. Turning here to the left, and looking over the gardens on the same hand, a tall, rude, upright stone, about ten feet high, will attract attention, and may be visited by passing in front ot the little cottages above. This is the supposed memorial of that wise Manx king, Orry, who gave laws to the Island, constructed the Tynwald Mount, and founded that old representative council, the House of Keys. The cairn, of late years, has been much damaged by the ignorant, but originally it consisted of a dome-shaped vault enclosing a kest-vaen composed of large slabs of schist placed parellel, but inclining towards each other at the upper edge. Inside were the bones and teeth of a horse, and perhaps some remains of the defunct king or warrior, whichever it might be, who was here laid to rest. :
A recent writer says : - " Among the numerous relics of the Danish period still existing in the Island, few are more interesting in themselves, or possess greater historical value, than that remarkable monolith known as 'The King Orry Stone,' and the graves with which it is associated. This valuable relic of antiquity consists of a huge slab of stone placed at the head of one of a series of ancient graves, probably of the Danish period, situated on the slope of the hill above Laxey. Several of these graves are surrounded by the remains of what originally were circles of large upright stone, while the one to which 'The King Orry Stone' is attached is claimed by tradition, and probably with historical truth, as King Orry's grave. This relic is one of the com- pletest of its kind, not only in the Island, but elsewhere, and, partly from its appearance and its traditionary name, and partly from its picturesque position on the hill side, from whence a glorious view of land and sea can be obtained, it is visited every year by thousands of the summer tourists who flock to the Island. In fact, it shares, with 'The Big Wheel' and the romantic glen, the claim of attracting the immense crowds who annually visit Laxey."
Just at King Orry's grave we have the choice of two roads, the road to the left, leading through King Orry's grave, being the old road. This is very steep, and the tourist, even if he have a ''trap," will have to walk a long way ; but it affords a splendid view. The hill is called the Dreem-e-Jeskaig. The new road is that to the right. A fine view of the rocks to the north of Laxey bay is obtained from here. This portion of what is called the new road from Laxey is cut out of the side of a hill, and the great difficulty of its construction is apparent at a glance. A few minutes' walk brings us to the place where the old road, which we left at King Orry's grave, joins the new road. On our right there is a sign-post indicating that the road to the right leads tothe Dhoon Glen and Waterfall, a description of which will be found in the section, " Excursions from Ramsey." A few yards further on, another signpost indicates a second entrance to the Dhoon Glen. The road indicated by the post is a portion of the old road to Douglas, and pedestrians consider this one of the "short cuts" when walking to or from Ramsey. Another portion of the old coach-road appears a little further on. It branches off past a small farmhouse on the right of the road, and again joins the highway a short distance from the Dhoon Church. The Barony, the property of the Christian family, lies on the shore side of this road. There are the ruins of a chapel and burial-ground on the east side of the old road. A few minutes' walk brings us to the Dhoon church and parsonage, a few scattered houses, and a public school (erected 1875) on our left, and a Primitive Methodist chapel on the righthand side of the road, at the top of Corany Hill. At the foot of this steep hill there is a corn mill, and the stream which passes under the road at this place flows through the estate of Ballaglass, and forms the famous Ballaglass Waterfall, a short distance farther down the stream. After passing Cardle Voar Wesleyan Chapel, which is built on the left side of the road, at the vise of the hill, we come to the front entrance to Ballaglass, on the right, and close to are Glen Mona and Rhenab Fall. The Hibernian Inn is situated farther on. Opposite this inn there is a by-road which leads to Ballaglass Waterfall, to Kirk Maughold, and to other parts of the parish. After ascending a somewhat steep hill, a stretch of level road intervenes before we arrive at the summit of the hill known as Slieu Lewaigue. As the descent of Slieu Lewaigue is made, the eye wanders over a tract of the most fruitful land in Maughold. If the day is clear, the opposite coast of Cumberland ought to be seen to advantage ; and, from the bottom of the hill, the Scotch coast and the Point of Ayre Lighthouse are visible. A short run brings the visitor within sight of Ramsey, a good view of which is obtained after passing Folieu, a pretty residence on the right. The best view of the town, however, is obtained after passing a road on the right that leads to Port Lewaigue, Port-e-Vullen, and Maughold Church. At the turn at the foot of the next hill, the road crosses over Ballure Glen at the bridge, and at the next turning we come to two roads, the one on the left lead- ing into Ramsey by Waterloo-road and into Parliament- street ; the other, on to the New Promenade and along the shore.
Besides the main roads - the "Long Road" and the " Short Road" which we have described in the previous chapter - there are other ways which are rapidly growing into favour. "The principal of these is that via Kepple Gate and Snaefell, through Sulby Glen, to where it joins the "Long Road to Ramsey." This is one of the finest excursions on the Island - if not the very finest - embracing, as it does, some of its finest scenery - scenery almost equal to anything to be found in Wales, the Lake District, or in Scotland. One of the reasons of the growing popularity of this route is that it enables so much to be done in one day. Snaefell can be easily ascended from the Refreshment Hut situated at the base of the mountain; or, from here, pedestrians can walk right through the northern mountains to the top of North Barrule, and down into Ramsey. This. road is not accessible for vehicles, but, as a mountain ramble, it has charms indescribable. Those in vehicles. should be guided by the following instructions : -
After leaving Snaefell Mountain, about fifteen minutes' drive brings the visitor to the Corrody Gate, which is near the south entrance to Tholt-e-Will, and, as the drivers invariably ask their passengers to walk from here - the mountain road down into Sulby Glen being very steep - by going down through the above grounds a walk of nearly a mile is avoided. This, in itself would be an advantage, were there no other attractions ; but, entering the grounds, and descending by well-made and safe footpaths to the Olt (Fastness of the Mountain) Glen and Waterfalls, the visitor is struck with the wild and rugged grandeur of this glen, acknowledged to be unequalled in the Island.
Crossing the large bridge thrown across the glen, and ascending the wood stairs, the visitor should then follow the path and sign-boards - the view of Sulby Glen all along being very fine - to Tholt-e-Will (Homestead of Will) Glen and Waterfalls, indicated by a large flag at the top, and, descending, will find himself almost in Fairyland, so sudden and marked is the contrast between this and the Olt Glen, these talls being almost hidden among the largest and finest ferns to be found on the Island, and, the glen being very thickly wooded, the branches in many places overhang the falls. A path at the bottom leads to the lower entrance gate, where wait the conveyances.
Should the visitor have time to explore the grounds, two hours may very pleasantly be spent in following the many paths cut through the other beautiful parts of the woods and glen.
Sulby Glen will be found fully described in the Ramsey section.
Ramsey is a rising and improving watering-place. Any one who has not visited the town during an interval of half- a-dozen years would be at once convinced of the truth of this: remark. On all sides he would see signs of improvement. A low-water landing-pier completed, a promenade, 800 yards in length, erected along the shore, old buildings demolished, and more substantial ones rising in their places, new streets opened out, and the surface of old ones improved,. and the absence of offensive smells from defective drainage, are some amongst the many changes that would favourably impress the visitor. Comfortable lodging-houses have been erected on the Shore, in Waterloo-road, Ballure Mount, Stanley Mount, and in North Ramsey ; and the hotels and inns have a smart and thriving appearance. Of the latter there are several to select from, notably the Mitre, in. Parliament-street ; the Albert, Prince of Wales Hotels, and Queen's, on the Shore; the Royal, in the Market-place ;. Commercial and Union, on the Quay; Stanley Inn, on the West Quay; and the Saddle, Crown, and Victoria Inns,, in Parliament-street. The lodging-houses on the Shore are large and commodious, and will be found admirably adapted for families or parties of fremds. The houses in Waterloo-road and Albert-street are well adopted for visitors, and, at the other end of the town, or North Ramsey, there are several excellent detached and semi-detached residences. and terraces of houses. The visitor ought to have no difficulty in settling down in comfortable quarters ; after which a stroll along the shore will afford him an opportunity of inhaling the sea breeze, so pleasant and invigorating to those whose occupation confines them to the busy manufacturing town. Great improvement has been carried out in this part: of the town. The old South Pier has been partially removed, and a more substantial structure erected, of solid concrete. An open work extends for a distance of 50 yards, and then. there is a landing-pier, 121 yards in length and 15 feet wide, composed of concrete blocks. After a walk to the end of the: pier and back, a stroll along the shore bring us to the Lifeboat House, erected, in 1870, by public subscription, supplemented by a liberal grant from the Royal National Lifeboat Institution. The boat was presented to the town by Mr. J. Ryder, Manchester, and is named the Two Sisters. There is a fine open space around the boat-house, and, from this locality, the eye can wander along the entire length of the Promenade, which was commenced in the spring of 1874, and completed in October, 1875, at a cost of about £6,000. The sea-wall, which is five feet thick, is built of stone and concrete, upon a foundation of concrete blocks, which are laid to a depth ot six feet below the surface. The inside of the wall is filled in with stones and sand, and the surface is paved with rough stones laid sideways. A smooth footpath, twelve feet wide, extends along the outer edge of the work, and forms a favourite promenade all the year round. The Prince of Wales and Albert Hotels are situated on this portion of the shore, and further south are several terraces of houses, the majority of which are used as lodging-houses. Opposite the slip leading to the shore, at the Old Cross, we have the New Approach Road, opened in 1875, in order to improve the communication between Waterloo-road and the shore. From the south end of the Promenade the Low-water Landing Pier was commenced in 1882, and opened for use in 1886. The total cost of this work, which has, for so many years, been the desideratum of Ramsey, was about £45,000. From whatever part of the Promenade the visitor stands, an uninterrupted view of the whole bay may be obtained ; but from the end of the South Pier the bay and the hills surround- ing the town may be viewed to advantage. Maughold Head, on the southern extremity of the bay, stands out in bold relief against the sky, and in the valley on the right lie the snug little hamlets - Port-e-Vullen and Port Lewaigue. The headland separating the two is called Table Point. Further inland, and rising to a considerable elevation, is the hill called Folieu ; and North Barrule lies further west, looming over the town at an elevation of some 1800 feet above the sea. Nearer the town is the lesser elevation of Lhergy Frissel (English, Frissel's Hill). The only vault in Ballure chapel yard contains the remains of the Frissel famiiy. The hill was named after them. It is on this hill that Albert Tower is built ; and, again looking further west, we have the heads of the Elfin Glen and Glen Aldyn. Sky Hill, the scene of a battle, completes the amphitheatre of hills surrounding the town, but further inland we catch a glimpse of the hill, Gob- e-Volley, or mouth of the valley, in the parish of Lezayre. North Ramsey lies in the valley, and partially extends to the table land forming the parish of Bride. The eye now wanders along a coast bordered by gentle slopes, and over a district that seems admirably adapted for building purposes, an extension of the town in this direction being contemplated. The portion of the North Shore called the Mooragh, has 'been purchased by the Town Commissioners. It is being laid out in plots for building purposes, artificial lakes, terraces, and lawns. Neat villas are dotted here and there along the highway, but, after passing the Dog Mills, the coast becomes more precipitous, and finally terminates in the headland south of the Point of Ayre. The Point cannot be seen from the end of the pier, but is visible from a short distance out at sea. The distance from Maughold Head to the Point of Ayre is about nine miles; the coast between the two headlands forms an almost perfect semicircle, and encloses Ramsey Bay, the largest on the coast. Good anchorage for vessels of every size can be secured in all parts of the bay, but especially in the southern half. It abounds in all kinds of fish - notably, cod, mackerel, plaice, whiting, gurnets, conger-eels, &c. - and, during the fine evenings in the summer months, it is a favourite resort of the visitors and townspeople, who often return with boats loaded with a variety of fish. The whiting are caught most abundantly, and in better condition than at other times, in the months extending from April to July.. Plaice and gurnet are caught at all times, and mackerel during July, August, and September. August is considered the best month, and it frequently happens that an amateur who never handled a line before will return with three or four dozen of this kind of fish. Sailing boats are required for this pastime, and for this purpose there are several sate boats for hire always along the shore. Codfish and conger-eels are caught in deep water, principally about Maughold Head. This is a pull of about four miles from the shore, and a fishing expedition to this locality will prove very interesting and enjoyable, as a safe landing can be effected, and the rocks and caves thoroughly explored ; and, at a few hundred yards distant out at sea, the rocky coast that lies between Maughold Head and Laxey can be viewed to advantage. During the month of September and early in October capital sport is obtained with a strong rod and line, angling for codling and bloggan from the rocks on the southern side of Ramsey Bay. A plain white fly is considered very killing, and frequently the fish bite pretty freely. In the month of October, during fine weather, quantities of fish are caught in this manner in the harbour, and, after heavy rains, the harbour is almost alive with salmon going up the river to spawn.
It would, however, be impossible to give more than a general outline of the different kinds of sport to be obtained in the bay. The visitor will find other amusements than those we have referred to, and the different boatmen are always willing to inform him how he can best enjoy himself at the particular season at which he visits the town.
Portions of Ramsey are very ancient. As the visitor rambles along some of the old streets, he will see styles of architecture (!) that carry him back to a period when an immense thickness of outer walls and a careful shutting out of the sun's rays were the fundamental principles upon which the builder wrought. The old streets, too, are very narrow. and the rough pavement anything but pleasant to walk upon, Maughold-street, College-street, and Queen-street are amongst the oldest thoroughfares, but the houses here are gradually giving place to more modern erections. The principal streets are wide, and a great improvement is yearly being effected in the paving of the surface and in the drainage. Parliament-street is the principal place of business The Post-office, Court-house, banks, and a number of large shops and offices are situated in this street. The Market- place is close to the harbour, of which it at one time formed a portion. St. Paul's Church, built in 1822, enlarged in 1844, and greatly improved in 1874, stands on the north side of the Market-place. The Church of St. Olave's, built in 1861, is situated in North Ramsey, at the top of Bowring- road. There are also the Wesleyan Chapel in Waterloo-road, considerably enlarged in 1882; and the Primitive Methodist Chapel close by. The Presbyterians worship in their new church in Waterloo-road, and the Roman Catholics in a neat little chapel on the shore. The Seamen's Bethel is situated at the west end of Parliament-street. Amongst the public schools we may notice the Grammar School, in Waterloo-road, built in 1864, and capable of accommodating 200 boys; the National Day and Sunday Schools, and the Infant Schools, in Church-street, certified to accommodate 690 children ; and the Wesleyan Day and Sunday Schools on the Shore, certified for about 500 children. Besides these, there are several private schools in different parts of the town. The Home for the Aged Poor is in Church-street. Across the harbour are the buildings formerly used as a shipbuilding yard and chemical works. They have been closed since 1866.
The population of Ramsey at the last census was 4,214. The management of the finances of the town is entrusted to a Board of Commissioners, who have full control over the lighting and cleansing of the streets and the drainage.
The erection of a low water landing pier, avaliable for steamers at all states of the tide, has for many years been the all absorbing desire of the Ramsey people, and its commencement in 1882, and completion in 1886, were marked as red letter days in the history of the town. It is situated at the South end of the Promenade, and forms one of the finest marine promenades in the Kingdom. It was constructed from plans prepared by Sir John Coode, C.E., at a cost of about £45,000. Of this sum, £11,000 were provided by Ramsey, the remaining cost being defrayed out of the revenue of the Island. It has a total length of 2,300 feet, of which 2,160 feet, or 720 yards, form the Pier itself, the remaining 140 feet projecting out seawards, and at the end of which the lighthouse is placed. There is a depth of about 15 feet at low water spring tides at the outer end of the pier, which is a semi-solid work about 280 feet in length, composed of immense greenheart piles, bound together by innumerable rods of wrought iron. There are wide flights of iron stairs at the landing berth, and a shelter house, with waiting and refreshment rooms for passengers. The open part of the pier is composed of wrought iron piles screwed into the clay to a depth of about 15 feet. The girders are built on the lattice principle, in spans of 40 feet each; and others of 20 feet each, which have been made to form the stiffening bays. These are 38 feet wide, and ornamental seats are arranged around them, with the addition of a glazed wind and weather screen at the centre bay. A small charge is made for admission, collected at two ornamental toll houses at the shore end of the pier. A tramway runs along the centre of the work, from all parts of which a magnificent view of the surrounding country can be obtained, especially of the beautiful glen of Ballure and the towering highlands beyond. The view from the extreme end of the pier is charming, and one of which visitors and residents alike appear never to tire. As a means of improving the steam communication between Ramsey and other parts, its value cannot be over-estimated, and its erection is certainly one calculated to materially enhance the prosperity of the town. The pier was opened with great ceremony on the 2nd July, 1886, and, by permission of her Majesty, was christened the "Queen's Pier."
In mapping out the different excursions that may be made from Ramsey, we have been very careful not to set down more work than a person in ordinary health ought to accomplish in a day of steady walking. In fact, a couple of the excursions may easily be taken in one day by many who are not easily fatigued. We shall also point out those excursions where conveyances have to be abandoned and pedestrianism brought to the fore, only premising that the visitor whose length of sojourn in this neighbourhood will permit him to adopt the latter in preference to the former more expeditious mode of locomotion will see more of the real character of the country than the one who follows the beaten and regular tracks. But to those whose time is limited, and who wish to see as much of the natural beauties of the north as they can, we should say that Sulby Glen, with the attractions of Tholt-e-will; Glen Aldyn, with the Manx Niagara Waterfalls ; and Dhoon Glen and Glen Mona should each be booked for a certain visit.
The village and church of Maughold, Maughold Head and Well, and Ballaglass Waterfall can be visited easily in one day, either riding or walking. About three-quarters of a mile from Ramsey, on the highroad to Douglas, there is a road branching off to the left and leading down towards the shore. At the foot of the hill lies the hamlet of Port Lewaigue, and, a short distance further on, that of Port-e-Vullen. Here are the remains of several mines. A little farther on, we come to an old Runic cross by the road side. One of the legends in connection with this cross is that an old woman, returning to the village with some balls of wool in her arms, cursed the wind, which was rather boisterous, and she was immediately turned into stone. The cross itself is much worn and disfigured, but the general outline of the carving can be easily traced. A sharp walk of about two miles along a hilly road brings us in sight of Kirk Maughold church and village. The church is a very ancient one, and is surrounded by an extensive churchyard. At the entrance to the yard there is a large cross, called St. Maughold's Cross. One side contains a carving of St. Maughold ; another, the Virgin and Child ; the third, the Crucifixion and the Manx arms ; and the fourth, that of a female figure. Many conjectures have been hazarded regarding the date of this remnant of antiquity, but no definite conclusion has been arrived at. The cross stands on a pedestal fixed in a block of stone. Our sketch repre- sents the side on which are the Crucifixion and the Manx arms. Close to the church are another cross and ancient sun dial, and there are other objects of interest to the antiquary in the district. The walls of the church are of great thickness, and in the chancel windows are some specimens of tracery, supposed to be the only ones on the Island. In the graveyard surrounding the church, a large number of eminent Manx men and women are interred. The living is in the gift of the Crown. There is a vicarage close to the church, and the surroundings of the sacred edifice have a very primitive aspect. The clerk's residence stands between the vicarage and the church. This post is worth about £120 per annum ; in fact, it is the best situation of the kind on the Island. The clerk is elected to his office by all those parishioners who, to quote the old statute, " put out smoke" - whose domicile, whether a mansion or a single room, has a chimney to it - a very peculiar qualification. After inspecting the church, a walk to Maughold Head will amply repay the tourist for the slight deviation from the highroad. The Well is not easily found ; and, as this is seldom omitted by tourists, it would be well to obtain plain directions from some one residing in the locality before proceeding on the search. No general directions on our part would serve the purpose. From the Head, a magnificent view of the country and the Irish Sea is secured. Our sketch [p. 197] shows the inland view from this point.
The village and church of Maughold lie in the fore- ground, the highroad to Ramsey on the left, and a portion of the parish and Mount Barrule in the distance. An excellent view of Ramsey Bay, town, and a portion of the North of the Island can be obtained from a part of the glebe situated to the South of the Vicarage ; and if the tourist obtain permission trom the Vicar to cross the fields, he ought not to omit this. The sea view from Maughold Head is also very fine, and commands a large area. A striking legend in illustration of the peculiar sanctity said to attach to the Church of St. Maughold is given in the Chronicon Mannie :- -
Somerled, Jarl of Argyle, had taken up arms against Godred Olaveson. A sea battle was fought between them on the eve of Epiphany in 1156, with such doubtful success to either that the next morning they came to a compromise to divide between them the sovereignty of the isles. Under this compromise, Somerled acquired all the isles, excepting Man, south of the point of Ardamarchan. From that period the sovereignty of the isles ceased to be vested in one person. Somerled, however, was not content with this; and two years after, that is, in 1158, Somerled again, with a fleet of 53ships, came to Man, where, encountering Godrcd, he defeated that prince, who then fled to the court of Norway to crave assistance. On the approach of Somerled to the Island on the second occasion, the Manx people conveyed their money and valuables to the sanctuary of St. Maughold Church, in the hopes, says the chronicler, that the veneration due to St. Machutus, added to the sanctity of the place, would secure everything within its pre- cinets. After the battle, in which he was victorious, the fleet of Somerled lay at Ramsey, and one of his captains, Gil Colum, made a propos ] to surprise the Church of St. Maughold, and at least drive off the cattle which were grazing around the churchyard. Somerled : with much reluctance, consented to this proposal, pronouncing at the same time these words, '' Let the affair rest between thee and St us: let me and my troops be innocent ; we claim no in thy sacrilegious booty." Gil Colum laid his plans rdinely, arranging with his three sons to effect the surprise at -cak the following morning, but as he lay asleep in his tent at dez night, St. Machutus appeared to -him arrayed in white linen, and holding a pastoral staff in his hand, with which he twice struck him in the heart. Awaking in great terror of mind, Gil Colum sent for the priests of the Church to receive his con- fession, but they had no words of comfort for the dying wretch. One of them eyen proceeded to pray that St. Machutus would never withdraw his hand till he made an end of the impious nan, and imme iately he was attacked by a swarm of filthy, monstrous flies, and about six in the morning he expired in great misery and torture. Somerled and his whole host were struck with such dismay upon the death of this man that as the tide floated their ships they weighed anchor, and with precipitancy returned home.
After examining the Well at the Head, about which various romances have been afloat, it will be necessary to retrace our steps to the Church, and there inquire for the road leading to Ballaiora Chapel. A sharp walk, principally brings us to this building. The road here passes through the ancient Quakers' Burial Ground, and the road to the left leads to Ballaglass Glen and Waterfall. There are several bye-paths branching from this road ; but, avoiding all, and keeping the valley in front in view, the tourist cannot miss the way. Conveyances to Ballaglass do not, as a rule, go this way, but by the highroad to Douglas. The walk from Maughold Village to Ballaglass is the most fatiguing part of the journey, but capital bits of scenery are obtained at intervals. Inquiries on the way will prevent the tourist taking the wrong turn, and finding himself in some out-of-the- way portion of the parish. This glen and waterfall have been for many years. a noted place for visitors. It is admirably adapted for pic-nic parties, the heavy foliage effec- tually shutting out the rays of the .sun, and the green sward, soft as velvet pile, forming an agreeable lounge. The waterfalls are not high, but consist rather of a series of cascades, and of rushing torrents through large fissuresin thestones. We give asketch of the upper portion of the glen and falls above. The river Renna, which forms the falls, flows into the sea, a short distance from the mill. The pedestrian may walk along the path leading up the stream, and, passing the water wheel and lead mines, he will come out at Cornay Bridge on the Douglas highroad - at a point referred to in our description of the journey from Ramsey to Laxey [page 173]. Another road leads from the glen to the highroad from the neighbour- hood of the lead mines and water wheel. It is a small path along the border of one of the fields, forming a portion of the estate of Ballaglass, and brings the tourist into the bye-road leading to the farm. A turn to the left leads into the high- road some distance nearer to Ramsey than the Cornay Bridge. The highroad to Ramsey, available for vehicles, is atthe Flour Mills in the glen, and runs along the side of the hill, joining the road opposite the Hibernian Inn. There is also another way of returning to Ramsey, viz., by retracing our steps to the Ballajora Chapel, and, instead of turning towards Kirk Maughold by the way we came, keeping straight on the road along the side of the hill. -This is a beautiful drive, and runs through the estate of Lewaigue, one of the most productive farms on the North of the Island, finally joining the highroad at the foot of Slieu Lewaigue. By taking this road the steep ascents and descents between the Hibernian and Folieu are avoided, and a capital view of the fruitful valley of Maughold is obtained along the whole route after leaving Ballajora. The distance from Ramsey to Kirk Maughold, Ballaglass, and back, is about 10 miles.
Full many a gem of purest ray serene
The dark unfathom'd caves of ocean bear;
Full many a flower is born to blush unseen
And waste its sweetness on the desert air.
These words may aptly be applied to this, one of the most beautiful of the glens of Mona. It is almost shut out frora view on the shore side, and, although the tops of the trees are occasionally visible trom the highroad, yet there is nothing to indicate the proximity of such beautiful scenery as this glen possesses. The head of the glen and the hotel are situated on the highroad, at some six and iles from Ramsey and two and a half from Laxey. A small charge is made for admission. A well wooded plantation at the head of the glen forms a large pic-nic parties, but more fascinating and charming situations will be found lower down. If viewed under favourable circumstances, on a bright clear day, the view from this spot is very pleasing. Lower down we come to a large water wheel, formerly used to pump the water out of the lead mines then in operation. The first fall is about eighty feet, and after this the torrent takes another leap of between seventy and eighty feet. The total height of the fall is over a hundred and sixty feet. Our illustration of the waterfall is from a photograph by Mr Patterson, of Ramsey, and represents the whole of the second leap, and the greatest portion of the first leap. By traversing the path for a short distance towards the north of the glen, and turning to the right to the river, some capital views of the fall are obtained.
A few yards before this fall there is another smaller, but very romantically-situated one, and on the left-hand side of the glen, and close to the latter fall, a tunnel about 26 feet in height has been cut into the solid rock for a distance of hundreds of yards for purposes in connection with the mine higher up the glen. A little lower down the foliage is thick, specimens of ferns and wild flowers are very abundant, and along the bed of the river are numberless charming retreats for small pic-nic parties. A path has been cut from the bed of the river to the side of the hill which leads us down to the shore. As we walk along this elevated path, with the glen beneath, we observe a mountain torrent rushing down the hill on the opposite side. This is the equally charming Glen Callan, and after resting on the beach, and partaking of refreshments at the restaurant that we are quickly approach- ing, the return by this glen will be a most agreeable change, and should not be omitted. At intervals, along the path we are traversing, seats have been erected for the benefit of the weary, and whilst looking around, or resting here, the barren and rocky nature of the land immediately above the glen is very apparent. Arrived at the shore we have a snug little bay, surrounded by rocks of every form. Safe boats can be hired, and the formation of the rocks and caves closely examined. From the beach, or from a distance out at sea, there is nothing to indicate the proximity of such a beautiful glen. The stream falls on to the beach from a fissure in the slight elevation that surrounds the " Bight of Dhoon," as it is now termed, or " Toftar Asmund," as it was formerly called.
As we retrace our steps up Glen Callar, its natural beauties are seen to great advantage, and a little climbing, in closely following the watercourse, opens out little bits of scenery that are delightful.
The Dhoon is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque and lovely glens which beautiful Mona contains. . Waving trees and rippling streams, ivy-clad rocks and moss-lined recesses, warbling birds and chirping insects, add charms to this lovely retreat. The splendid waterfall is scarcely equalled by that of Spoot-Vane on the opposite side of the Island.
From the rustic bridge crossing the fall, about midway in its height, the view is sublimely grand, whether we look upwards at the wood-embosomed fall, or downwards towards the ocean.
Amongst the many out-of-the-way nooks that have been opened out" for the delight and enjoyment of visitors during the past decade, none are more charming than the glen now known as Glen Mona but to residents in the neighberhood [text lost ]
for the quality as well as for the abundance of its fish, and expert anglers frequently return after a day's sport with quite as heavy a load of splendid trout as they can carry. The principal entrance to the glen is near the Dhoon Church, about one mile before Dhoon Glen is reached on the journey from Ramsey. A large and comfortable hotel stands near the entrance on the highroad, and there is also a refreshment room in the lower portion of the glen near the sea. Descend- ing the glen through a delightful labyrinth of vegetation and verdure, occasional glimpses are obtained of the highlands which are such a prominent characteristic of the parish of Maughold, and at every turn of the path, the Rhenab, as it rushes to the sea, forms a series of roaring cascades, or more gently glides over or around huge boulders which some tremendous upheaval of nature has hurled into its course. Rustic bridges cross the stream, where the best views of the falls are obtained, and there is no lack of quiet nooks, where, on the verdant swards, the revelries of the pic-nic can be heartily enjoyed. Both sides of the glen, especially the northern wood on which the Barony is situated, are well stocked with trees, but as the stream approaches the sea, the valley opens out and the trees are scanty. The beach is a very steep one, and for this reason was selected in 1885 as the spot where the new cable which connects the Island with St. Bee's Head, in Cumberland, enters the sea. A house for the telegraphing operator has been erected on the beach, and has been fitted with every convenience for a few days' residence in case of accident or injury to the cable. The return to the highroad, if made by the south side of the glen, will open out very fine views of the northern mountain range, and afford, at intervals, excellent coigns of vantage whence to look down on the peaceful vale below.
The entrance to Ballure Glen is by a path close to Ballure Bridge; previously referred to. Unless the tourist follows the course of the stream he will see nothing calculated
gro isssaceeete-s=t0 inspite him with
ss Se delight after visiting the 2-4 otherglens of the Island. @ = The requirements of the =eatown of Ramsey have gcompelled the Water- works Company to build
sa new reservoir on a
supply of water during a drought of three months, and a portion of the upper fall has been converted into a sluice for the purpose of carrying away the overflow from the reservoirs. After passing the fall, we come to the three reservoirs, and beyond them the glen divides into two parts, in both of which there are numerous charmingly cool retreats, which are favourite resorts of pic-nic parties. '(he trees afford ample shade, and the view of Ramsey bay and landing pier is very picturesque. A well-formed path on the side of the Glen nearest the town will lead the tourist along the side of the hill and back into the highway. This is a very pleasant walk ; but, if a visit to the Albert Tower is decided upon, it is easily reached from the neighbourhood of the reservoirs. A small cottage stands on the road above the reservoirs, and a bye-path running at the back of this cottage and across the fields leads over a stile, and thence along the side of the hedge to the farm-yard. From here the path to the Tower is easily distinguished.
Albert Tower was built by the inhabitants of Ramsey to commemorate an unexpected visit of the Prince Consort, in 1847. On that memorable occasion Queen Victoria's yacht anchored in the bay on its return from Scotland. Her Majesty remained on board, but the Prince Consort landed on the south shore, and, walking to Ballure Glen, was escorted up the side of the hill, and, from the summit, obtained a fine view of the surrounding country. He returned to the yacht remarkably well satisfied with bis trip ashore. The Tower is built of granite, and access to the roof is obtained by means of a winding staircase inside the building. From the roof, which is protected by a battlement of stone, a capital view of the north of the Island is obtained. As we look due north the parishes of Lezayre and Jurby, with Jurby Church in the distance, are on our left ; the town lies immediately beneath us ; and the parishes of Kirk Andreas and Kirk Bride further beyond. On a clear day the coast of Ireland is visible on the left (beyond Jurby parish), the Scotch coast due north, and the English coast and the hills of Cumberland on our right. It is rare that the state of the atmosphere allows a view of the three countries at one glance, but the Scotch and English coasts are almost always visible. The parish of Maughold lies to the extreme east, or almost behind us as we look towards the Point of Ayre, while Mount Barrule, to the south, is quite in our rear. From Albert Tower the ascent to the summit of Barrule appears short and easy, and it may, with advantage, be made from here. Retracing our steps to the farmyard through which we passed, and to: : E = =
the road leading Bz SS past the reservoirs, = a the mountain road leads along the Glen
until we come to the === = stone wall whic) - - - - == - -
between the farmsof Ballastowell, Park Moar, &c., and the Commons lands. After climbing over this boundary wall, the real difficulties of the ascent present themselves, and care is required in order to avoid the bogs that are so prevalent immediately after cross- ing the boundary. With ordinary care, and a little perse- verance, however, the top of North Barrule ought to be reached in half-an-hour to three-quarters after leaving the Tower.
From the summit of North Barrule a splendid view of the whole of the north and a portion of the south and centre of the Island is obtained, as well as an extensive panoramic view of the coasts of England, Ireland, and Scotland. Looking toward Ramsey, the eye wanders over a long stretch of well cultivated and fruitful land. Turning round, the direction of the range of hills which traverse the Island from north to south is easily traced. The round summit of Snaefell appears within a few miles to the south, and, in the far distance, glimpses of Douglas Bay and of Lonan are obtained. Immediately below, still looking south, lies a valley, almost enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. Exten- sive mining works were formerly in full progress here, and the buildings still remain. Glen Aldyn lies to the west, and the little views that are obtainable of this glen from our coign of vantage are very pleasing. The descent may be made either by way of Elfin Glen or by Glen Aldyn. The former is preferable, as there is no regular path by the latter, and Glen Aldyn is well worthy of a few hours being set apart for its inspection alone. _In descending by way of Elfin Glen, we will suppose that the tourist is looking towards Ramsey. A short distance below him, and far from the boundary wall previously referred to, there is a farm-house, past which a road leads direct to Elfin Glen. Keeping this farmhouse in view as we descend from the summit, a footpath leads us along the eastern boundary of one of the fields to it, which is called Park Moar. After passing the farm-house, the road turns to the right, but this leads to the Tower and not to the Glen. The narrow path to the left leads to Elfin Glen, down which a stroll will prove highly interesting. It is a small glen, but well wooded, and the walks, being shaded by trees, afford a cool retreat after toiling under the heat of the sun. The path down the Glen joins a road to the Tower at a gate leading into a field, and finally joins the road that leads round Claughbane and to the stone quarry, whence a direct walk of about half a mile brings us to Waterloo-road.
About half a mile on the highway to Peel, a road on the left leads to Glen Aldyn (Manx Niagara) [see illustration page 91]. The glen is larger than the Dhoon or Ballaglass, and, as it is within easy walking distance of Ramsey, has always been a favourite resort both of tourists and visitors.
It is well sheltered by hills, and the air of the i
balmier than that of the surrounding ence ee, Niagara Waterfall," which is situated at the head of the "Fern Glen," has latterly risen in public favour. The entrance to this charming retreat is on the left side of the principal glen, and about half a mile from the high road. Fern Glen is easily peprosched by taking the road to the left just before reaching the wooden bridge. - _Its natural great beauties of wood and water, dingles and dells are enhanced by thousands of youn trees - pines, firs, &c. - specially planted. The views from ans top of the glen are difficult to surpass. In fact, no visitor has properly "done" Ramsey and the North who has notseen this pretty glen, luxuriant in ferns. The road leads to the new moun- tain road, and through this glen it has been proposed to carry on the road, so as to open out direct communication between the North of the Island and Douglas by way of the mountain se North Barrule can easily be reached from the head of the glen by turning to the left, and there is a small path on the right leading to Sulby Glen. There is aslate quarry at the top of the glen. The river formerly abounded with trout, but latterly they have become very scarce. In the spring of the year they are rather plentiful, and as the distance from Ramsey is not very great, a few hours at this sport will prove very enjoyable. The river is rather narrow, and generally so shaded by low overhanging trees that fly- fishing is impossible, except in the lower portions of the stream, or immediately after entering the glen. There are, however, eseveral good runsand a lively worm may prove effective, and some capital sport be obtained.
A few hundred yards after entering the glen from the highroad, 'we come to a lane on the left-hand side. This leads to Claughbane-road. A short distance up the lane there isa gate, then a footpath, running along the side of several fields, and finally leading to a farm-house. Ap- proaching the farm-house, we see a valley among the hills on our right; this is called " Nut Glen," on account of the large quantities of nuts growing there. A path along the hedge leads to it, and a short visit will prove interesting. Passing through the farm-yard, the path still leads through the fields, through a stile, along another field, and finally joins the Claughbane-road, a short distance above Claugh-. bane-house. From this point the road turning to the right, runs under an avenue of fine trees, and this locality, viewed in early spring or autumn, before noon or before sunset, 1s really charming. "Round Claughbane," as it is termed, is a favourite walk of the inhabitants, whom one meets in numbers in fine weather during the summer evenings. After emerging from beneath the avenue of trees, we pass a large stone quarry. The stone is used for building pur- poses throughout the north of the Island, and has been worked for many years. It was used in the construction of the New Promenade at Ramsey. A short distance after passing the quarry, the road on the right leads to Albert Tower, Elfin Glen, and North Barrule ; and the one on the left to Ramsey, by way of the Parsonage-road. But keeping a direct course, we have, from a short distance further on, the best view of Ramsey and surrounding country and a portion of the bay. At intervals between this point and where we again enter the highway to Douglas, we have several good views ofthe country on our left, whilst on our right "Lhergy Frissel," clothed with verdure and forest trees, rises abruptly.
As we return to Ramsey, after joining the highway, Ballure Chapel lies in a field on our left. This is sometimes called the '' Old Chapel," and well worthy is it of that title, for although the present building is not very ancient, yet upon the site a chapel has existed far beyond any reliable recorded time. It was in existence prior to the year 1611, for, in Speed's History, first published in that year, it was referred to as "Saint Catherine's Chappel." " Bishop Parr, who was consecrated a.D. 1635, rebuilt Ramsey Church, probably in 1639 and 1640. Richard Parr, a native of Lancashire, was sometime fellow of Brazenose College, Oxford, and afterwards rector of Eccleston, in the county of Lancaster. He was an excellent prelate, and the last who held the see previous to the Civil War, during which unhappy period a vacancy took place of above eighteen years. Dr. Parr rebuilt Ramsey Church, and was eminent as a preacher. He was consecrated in 1635, and, dying in 1643, was buried at St. German's." (Butlers Life of Lishop Fiildesley. ) - "Richard Parr, Bishop of Sodor and Mann, was first driven out of a rectory in Lancashire (Eccleston), and then from his see, which was sequestered in 1643. He died in the same year." - ( Walkers Sufferings of the C lergy.)
From manuscripts in the possession of the Chaplain of Ramsey, we have been able to gather the following extracts from the " Book of Causes, Ano. Dni. 1641," relating to this chapel : -
That ye inhabitants of Ramsey and ye neighbours about ye Chappel of Ballure may give to God his due worship and service ; wee have for that purpose sworne two chappell wardens, Henry Chrystian and Ffard Ffoxe, whose office is to have speciall care of God's public worship, pe sentinge, by virtue of their oath, all such ye inhabitants of Ramsey and other neighbours about ye chappell as shall absent yemselves wth out iust (just) cause. Where wee will and require yem to serve God, except it be at solemne feasts and Comunion days, at wch tymes wee will yem to goe to ye mother church, but att all other tymes duely to com to ye chapell, made wth great cost soe readie to yeir hands. These are further to require all such who are thus bound to repaire to ye chappell for ye exercise of true religion and to beg God's blessinges wth cheer- fulnes to pay ye readers wages, for wch they may exp,» double blessinge from God to whose blessed Ptyxxx and mercie in Christ I leave you all and rest. ++ Ri. Sop:
Bps. Court Ffeb. ye 15th 1640.
1706. - The chappell at Ramsea rebuilt, to which I gave five pounds. - Bp. Wilson's Memorandum Book.
Ballure Chapel. 215 ens lc ee
From the Book of Causes (1712) we gather thet lames F. Knipe, reader at Ramsey Chapel, presented a pelea "Ve Rit Revd. Thos: Ld. Bip.; ye Revd. pane 2 Mt worth, Archdeacon, ye Revd. Robert Parr and 8 n Curg es Vicar-General, yy» 'to appoint and authorise f peroneal assess ye inhabitants of SAS Se oe etd eee i apel in repair as formerly, eae, levy, e take what is and shall ee ee OE to ye Reader, according to their voluntary subscriptions, y all things may be done decently and in or den "i a Captain Wattleworth and William ee ana es Pi pointed, in response to this petition, at a oie 4 'e a "Lezaire, June 6, 1712," and all persons in le Pie #0 Knipe were ordered to pay within 14 days, weh sae neglect to pay, he is to commit them to St. Germain Ss PESO and if ye Sumner be debe yee he is ie. pest as Gunes cS ier or soldiers from ye garrison ; Ly very as there shall be occasion." ' 1 SUD pears that the restored chapel was consecrated by : P. eens 1747, but, as the site was a sacred one before, this is do * "The Ca aennre referred to above, comprised, accordirg to the Setting ae ea Teor oem lands of Ballure, Ballastowell, ba ; ee the latter of which has been divided, (ise oneane being attached to Milntown and the other now calle g Ree chapel of Ballure was a ruin in 1849, and in a year an effort was made to repair it, which yes seen a Above £320 were raised by subscriptions and 2 ree R Paul's Church, and the chapel was completely i. oe ee baptismal font of Caen stone was placed a : Mee Pp 1867. A small burial ground surrounds the c nAoG isd te san In the burial ground attached to the Cee Ne Sha several ancient tombstones. One of them, oe ng aca the boundary wall near the west gable, bears the io g quaint inscription : - - rommeagooe sfoeed r rred here the remains of Anne 5 alias pee aeons Stowell, who os op Ane a oe a Juiy, 1783, aged 44 years, and was the mother o
mores May they like her their time employ, 'And meet her in the realms of joy. st
These places may be visited easily in one day by the pedestrian. Pleasure parties frequently go to the Point in conveyances and have pic-nics on the shore.
Kirk Bride is about four miles from Ramsey, and the Point is about three miles beyond. At the west end of Parliament-street, a road, branching to the right from the highway to Peel, leads over "The Bridge" and up Bowring- road. At the top of this road we pass St. Olave's Church, and, continuing in the same direction, the road windsa little, and, in a few minutes, we come to another good road, branching off to the right. This is Bride road, and leads direct to the village. Good views of Ramsey are obtained from different points on this road, as well as of Barrule, Snaefell, &c. At the bottom of a steep hill, in the village, stands the parish church, dedicated to St. Bridget. In the churchyard are two Runic crosses. The present church was commenced in 1869, The tower was built in 1875. Onan eminence at Shellack, is a stone circle, called Cronk-ny-Vowlan, with an internal tumulus. From here a fine view of the Scottish coast and Cumberland mountains is obtained. The road to the right from the church leads to the Point of Ayre Lighthouse, which is reached after passing through an alternately fruitful and barren district. The lighthouse is built of stone, and is 159 feet high. The lights are reached by means of a winding staircase, which is firmly built and well protected against any accident happening to visitors by falling over, &c. The light is a revolving one, and shows a red and white light alternately by means of clockwork. An iron balcony runs round the house on the outside, and from this position a magnificent view of the mountains in the south of Scotland is obtained, and, if the weather is clear, an equally good view of those of Cumberland and of the east coast of Ireland, as well as a large portion of the south of the Island. This is, in fact, one of those views that ought not to be missed. _A dwelling-house is attached to the lighthouse for the use of the families of the men in charge of the lamps. There is accommodation for pic-nic parties either on the soft sward by which the district is surrounded, or on the shingle on the shore. A visit to the shore ought not to be omitted. It is about this place that the two tides, running on each side of the Island, meet, and form a troubled water, called by the natives "The Streeus" (from a Manx word signifying "strife" or "'contention"). In stormy weather this portion of the coast is dangerous to small craft. The formation of the coast ie peculiar. Stones of all sizes, rubbed smooth and round ry the constant action of the waters, form terraces along the shore, one above the other, as they have been left by each succeeding tide. Ever varying and changing, they tums treacherous footing, and contrast strongly with the beautifui greensward a few yards inshore, composed of a soft and yielding grass, which thrives under the showers of salt spray, and amidst which are tiny flowers of almost every hue, the whole forming a most agreeable soft lounge, omy to be appreciated by those who have enjoyed it after a walk from Ramsey. Returning to Ramsey by the same road that we came, we shall notice a road, branching off to the es at the top of the hill, after passing the parish church. his road lead direct to the village of Andreas, and passes through a fertile district. From different points in this road, good views of Snaefell, Barrule, Pen-y-Phot, and the Sulby and Ballaugh districts are obtained, as well as Albert Tower, Folieu, and the highlands about Ramsey. It is about four-and-a-half miles from Andreas to Ramsey.
If, instead of entering Andreas by way of Kirk Beds as described in the previous chapter, it is decided to make Ramsey the starting point, the road through North Ramsey must be taken, and, instead of turning into the road to the right leading to Kirk Bride, keep straight ahead, and in a few minutes we come to a portion of the road that bears signs of having recently undergone considerable alterations. This is called the Dhoor Hill, and was formerly rather steep. In the course of the excavations, in 1872, the workmen came across several cinerary urns, which were broken by them. The ashes of supposed human remains were found inside them. In fact, the parish of Andreas appears to have been in ancient times the centre of a large population, or at least an important military centre. In the course of several excavations which have taken place in this locality, several coins, urns, &c., have been discovered. In 1874, several ancient coins were discovered near the churchyard. The tower of the church is visible after passing the Dhoor, and the road to the village passes through a well cultivated tract. Less than a mile past the Dhoor Hill, there are four cross roads. The one to the right leads to the Kirk Bride road, the one to the left to Kerrowgarrow, and the one in front direct to Kirk Andreas. If the turn to the left is taken, the fort at Ballachurry may be inspected, and then the highway to Andreas, via Ballavarry, leads direct into the village ; or, if the direct road to Andreas be continued, the fort is visited on the return journey. This fort, which is supposed by some to have been constructed during the Civil Wars, either by the Roundheads or by the Earl of Derby, has more the appearance of a fortified camp. It is almost square, and, with the rampart and fosse, occupies above half an acre. The rampart is 12 feet high, and the internal surface is much lower than the level of the ground outside the fort. There are bastions at.each corner, and the whole structure has the appearance of having been raised with considerable care and skill. The Church of Kirk Andreas is dedicated to St. Andrew. The present structure is modern. The tower, shown in our illustration [page 218], was finished in 1872. It is visible from all parts of the North of the Island. In the interior of the church there is a marble font, once the property of Philip I. of France. There is a Runic monument in the churchyard, on which representations of horses, boars, goats, birds, and a man on horseback have been carved. 'There is an inscription on the edge, which runs as follows : - " Sont: Ulf: ein : suarti : raisti: krus : thona: aftir: Arin: Biaurg : Ruinu : sini:" which signifies that "Sont Ulf, the Black, raised the cross for Arinbjérg, his wife." There is another Runic monument outside the church gates. The rectory is situated a short distance from the church. The living is generally held by the Archdeacon of the Diocese, and is in the gift of the Crown. Mr Cumming states that : -
In the ancient maps of the Island we have three lakes, occupying different parts of the Great Curragh. One, the Malar Lough, received the waters of the Sulby River, which flowed out again into Ramsey Bay. Another was in Ballaugh (Balla-lough, the Village of the Lake), and flowed out to the sea by Kallhane. The other was in Andreas, giving out its waters northward by the Lhane Mooar, where King Orry is said to have landed. Thename 'Lhane seems to be derived from the Celtic glan or lan, " aseashore, or margin of a stream." In the Chronicon Munnie and more recent documents we have mention made of the Lake of Mirescogh, or Myreshaw, one half of the fishery of which was granted to Huan (or John) Hesketh, Bishop of Man, by Thomas, Earl of Derby, in 1505. There were three islands in this lake, and, in 1176, Godred Olaveson granted one of them to Sylvanus, Abbott of Rievale (on which to build a monastery), in expiation for his having married Fingala, daughter of Muirchead, King of Ireland, without the proper rites of the Church. In after times this was transferred to the Abbey of Rushen. It seems most probable that the Malar Lough was a part of the older lake of Myreshaw, as the limits of the Church lands, given in the Chronicon, are stated to '" descend by the river Sulaby to the wood of Myreshaw," and, in the old maps, the Sulby River is represented as running into the Malar Lough. One of the islands in the lake was used as a state prison, mentioned in the Rushen Chronicle.
In the parish of Andreas are several tumuli. One, called Cronk-ny-Dooiney (Man Hill) is at the foot of Cronk-Narrai- Shage (the Hill of the Watch-by-day). Another, called Cronk Ain, is at Regaby, not far from Cronk Aust. A third at Ballavarry, not far from Andreas Church.
Jurby is situated about four miles from Andreas Village, in a westerly direction. The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Patrick, stands on elevated land near the sea. The cod fishery is somewhat extensively followed by the inhabitants along this coast, and from a part called the "Lhen Moar," a little to the north of Jurby Head, excellent fish are procured. They are immediately cleaned and salted by the fishermen and partially dried; but whether it is the quality of the fish, or any peculiarity in the modest curing, that has made them famous, is uncertain, but their fame is great. Near the entrance to the church is a large Runic cross, and in the interior of the church there are two Runic monuments. On the estate of the West Nappin there are the remains of a Treen Chapel.
Leaving Jurby Church, and taking the road past Ballamona, we come to what is called the Sandy Gate. Theroad to the east leads direct to four cross roads, the right-hand one going to Sulby Bridge, the left to Kirk Andreas, and the one in front to St. Jude's, and thence to Ramsey. Following this road, we shortly come to the parsonage house, then to the school and church. The church is a chapel-of-ease in connection with Andreas Parish Church, and the living is in the gift of the rector of that parish. As we walk along this road, we get, on the right, pretty views of the hills and glens from Maughold Head. Shortly after leaving the church, we pass under a number of fine trees on the estate of Ballachurry, on which the Fort is situated. A walk of about two miles brings us in sight of Ramsey, and we join the Bowring-road opposite St. Olave's Church.
This excursion may be varied according to circumstances. A walk or drive from Ramsey, by way of the Bowring-road, and along the road opposite to St. Olave's Church, to St. Jude's, and at the four cross roads immediately past the church taking the tur to the left, to Sulby Bridge, and back to Ramsey, through Lezayre, is about nine miles.
Ballaugh old church and village may be visited from Jurby by taking the road to the right, leading south, instead of going to the left, past Ballamoar to the Sandy Gate. Ballaugh old church is a ruin, covered with ivy [see illustra- tion on page 220]. There is a Runic cross in the church- yard. 'The new parish church is situated a little farther on in the same road. The distance from Ballaugh to Ramsey is about seven miles, and the road is level and good.
This excursion will prove one of the most interesting and enjoyable on the Island. To accomplish it comfortably in one day, the train, as far as Sulby Glen, will have to be called into requisition. Having booked a seat as far as the Sulby Glen Station, we can at leisure inspect the country through which we pass. After leaving Ramsey, we have a good view of North Barrule on our left, and immediately afterwards pass the estate of Milntown and the entrance to Glen Aldyn. Emerging from beneath the trees, the well- wooded hill on our left is Skye Hill. The approach to the summit of this hill will be observed past the bend in the road. A walk to the summit in the early morn, or in the cool evening, will prove a delightful one. The path leads through a thick plantation until an open space is reached, whence a good view of the country we have already described, together with Lezayre Church, is obtained. This hill is noted in Manx history as the spot whereon Godred, son of Harold the Black, of Iceland, defeated the Manx, and thereby won for himself the sovereignty of the Island. Godred had on two former occasions endeavoured to possess himself of the crown of the Island, but had both times been repulsed. Once more he got together a large armament, and, coming by night to the harbour of Ramsey, he managed to land and ' conceal a body of men at Scacafel. At sunrise, the Manx é attacked Godred with considerable fury, but in the heat of the engagement, the 300 men rushed from their ambuscade, terribly galled the Manx in the rear, and put them to rout with great slaughter. Godred gave his troops the option of dividing the Island amongst them for an inheritance, or of pillaging it andreturning home again. The majority chose to a portion, however, : preferred to remain with Godred, and with them he shared the southern part of the : Island, leaving the northern to the natives, on the condition that no one should attempt the establishment of an hereditary claim to any part. The property of the whole Island and its revenues thus became vested in the sovereign ; nor till the law called the Act of Settlement (or the Manx Magna Charta) was passed, in 1704, did the people acquire a valid title to their estates.
A few hundred yards past the foot of Skye Hill, a gate on the right leads to Ballakillinghan. This mansion is surrounded by high trees, which affords shelter to hundreds of rooks, whose incessant cawing at the close of a summer evening is something not easily forgotten. Lezayre Church, and the churchyard and vicarage, lie on the left side of the road, a little farther on. The church, which is quite modern, and of which we give a sketch [page 222] is dedicated to the Holy Trinity.
The lower and west porch is almost covered with ivy, and there are several fine walnut trees around the church. For the next couple of miles, the road presents no objects of interest beyond the views that are afforded, at different points, of the northern parishes of the Island. After ascending a slight hill, the road again descends ; and close to the foot, running to the left past the Ginger Hall Inn, there is a road that leads across country, and through the river, to Sulby Glen. This road is available for vehicles when the river is not flooded ; and it is frequently taken by anglers and pedestrians, as it is a short cut to the glen. The highway, however, passes over Sulby Bridge. The road directly in front leads to the four cross roads at St. Jude's ; but, by a sharp turn to the left and a level run of half a mile, the entrance to Sulby Glen is reached. Snaefell can be ascended from here, but as this mountain is so easy of ascent fom different parts, this trip becomes purely a matter of -hoice. Pleasure excursions can be made from here to Sulby Slen, Druidale, Ballaugh, and other places of interest.
The entrance to Sulby Glen is almost directly opposite the Sulby Glen Hotel. At the entrance of the glen, a singular =< of rock, called " Cronk-y-Samarck" (the Hill of the Shamrock) stands out like a sentinel to guard the mouth of "= romantic ravine. For about half a mile up the glen -< are several cottages, and a cluster of them, in one =. has all the appearance of a small village. Soon "er passing here, the road becomes more lonely and the
-ywilder. The Starch Works passed, we have a good
i en and the hills towering above.The river is the solitude was formerly inhabited by the miners engaged in ae oe: eae and anglers consider this locality a good the Slate Quarry on the left side of the glen [see page 104]. spot for fly-fishing. The road rises here, and, turning at the Our first sketch of the glen is taken from this locality. Shortly : foot of the hill called Mount Karran, we have a splendid view afterwards the river is more completely shrouded with trees, of the glen, which assumes a more romantic aspect as we and a sharp turn at the head of a somewhat steep ascent, ascend. The river rushes along in its tortuous course, now brings us in sight of Tholt-e-Will, a delightful retreat. The forming deep pools, and anon falling over huge stones, or Alt waterfalls should not be omitted from this excursion; in through fissures in the rocks. The row of cottages amids fact, there is sufficient of interest in this locality to occupy several hours.. A comfortable hotel and restaurant have erected at the entrance to Tholt-e-Will, and at the farm-house situated on the hill above - a delightful and bracing retreat amidst the wildest of mountain scenery, yearly increasing in popularity. The views up the valley, and away to the summit of Snaefell, or down to the well- wooded and snugly sheltered vale below, are amongst the delightful visions of a holiday ramble. The Alt abounds with fine trout, and, being well preserved, affords ample sport for the angler. The walks through the glens have been so arranged as to afford excellent views of the falls, and the enjoyment to the casual visitor even, cannot be measured by the hour; for a day spent in this locality will afford barely sufficient time to see all that is to be seen and enjoyed. Snaefell may be ascended from here. To do so it is necessary to cross the bridge opposite the chapel, and take the path to the right. This path leads direct to the new mountain road which runs along the foot of Snaefell. The descent may, with advantage, be made on the west side of the mountain, and the glen re-joined below Druidale. If, however, this ascent is left for another occasion, the direct road past the chapel must be followed, and a little further on another chapel is reached. It is attached to the Parish Church of Lezayre, and services are occasionally held here. After passing this point some excellent scenery abounds, and a bridle path running along the stream, and occasionally diverging for some distance, brings the tourist to a footbridge. The farm buildings of Druidale are situated on the side of the hill to our right as we ascend the glen. The ascent of Snaefell through one of the dells to the left is easily accomplished. As we proceed up the glen the river forms several beautiful cascades, and solitude reigns supreme. In a field to the left, opposite Druidale, there is a graveyard, supposed to be the burial place of the Quakers. It is on the estate of the Crammagh. 'There is an old well - St. Michael's Well - near Druidale. Several mountain torrents join the river about this portion of its course, and trout are very plentiful. This may be considered the head of the glen, for the country immediately opens out, and, further on, a bridge crossing the stream indicates our turning point. Our road now lies to the right, and, gradually nearing Druidale House, we have mountain scenery in all its grandeur - Snaefell, Pen- y-Phot, Greeba, Injebreck, &c. A few inquiries at Druidale will be found advantageous, as the mountain roads here are numerous, and lead to Sulby, Rhenass, Peel, &c. The one to Ballaugh Glen runs in a northerly direction, almost parallel with Sulby Glen. It is level for a considerable distance, and passes through land covered with heather. A road to the right leads to Sulby, but the road to Ballaugh Glen still runs northerly, and in a few minutes we reach the head of the glen, and a fine view of land and sea is laid before us. The hills called Slieu Dhoo and Slieu Cairn form the highlands on our left, and, in the valley beneath us, Ravensdale nestles
i i i epresents dst the trees, a perfect picture. The sea view re cherconel of oe After descending ae ee ey ce the le Ravensdale House, the road turns to . ee ae wide road running at right angles to it. ur way = aC i valk along a country lane brings right, and a short wa OU ee eae into the highway to Peel, at Ballaug ge. ; ota, aeele chaech at Ballaugh - referred to in the a sion to Jurby - can be visited [see page 220]. The road to is almost opposite the entrance to Ballaugh Glen.
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Any comments, errors or omissions gratefully received
The Editor |
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