[From Abel Heywood Illustrated Guide 1885]

A RAMBLE ROUND THE ISLAND.

A walk of 100 miles will enable the visitor to see a succession of bays, headlands, rocks, and beautiful scenery not often witnessed by the ordinary tourist. The towns of Laxey, Ramsey, Kirk Michael, Peel, Port Erin, Port St. Mary, and Castletown are convenient places to rest. Sup-posing the tour is commenced at Douglas, the first walk would be 12 miles to Laxey; then 15 miles to Ramsey, 24 miles to Kirk Michael, 8 miles to Peel, 15 miles to Port Erin, 7 miles to Port St. Mary, 4 miles to Castletown, 1o miles to Port Soderick, and 5 miles to Douglas, making altogether ioo miles.

The walk would commence on the lawn at Douglas, over the cliffs at the north side of Douglas Bay, then past Onchan Harbour, following the cliff line of Bank's Howe, from which a splendid view is obtained, and a peep into the creek of Growdale, much frequented by pic-nic parties. Onchan is seen on the left ; and, on a clear day, the coast of Cumber-land is distinctly seen.

On descending Clay Head, the whole of the coast is seen to the north, as far as Maughold Head; then Laxey Bay, Lonan Church, and Laxey ; also the creek of Garwick, two miles south of Laxey,-a charming spot, said to be the favourite resort of water sprites and fairies. After a little smart walk the tourist arrives at Laxey beach. Walking up the glen near the tramway, the village is reached, and then the Ramsey Road is followed to the Dhoon Mountain, often called Barony Hill, from which a fine view is obtained of North Barrule, Clay Head, Bank's Howe, Douglas Head, and Maughold Head. Descending, Cornah Creek is entered; a secluded inlet, with a small beach, at the mouth of Cornah River ; a short distance up the creek is the Ballaglass Fall. The beautiful wild cove, near Ballaskey Howe, is passed, and Maughold Head is in front of the tourist. Then comes Mooar Creek, and a low, rocky shore. If Maughold head is ascended a fine view is obtained of Ramsey Bay reaching to the Point of Ayre. Port-y-Vullin and Port Lewaigue being passed, a walk up the shore brings the pedestrian to Ramsey. Shellag Point is a distance of four miles, over beautiful sands ; at the point the cliffs are very picturesque. By climbing to the top of Cronk-na-Irey-Lhaa, or Break-o'-day Hill, a fine view is obtained of the country from Ramsey to the Point of Ayre. From the hill a beautiful walk can be had along the tops of the cliffs.

Five miles from Ramsey the cliffs subside into a level tract round the Point of Ayre, on which is placed the light-house, which may be viewed free of charge. For four or five miles the land is rather monotonous. The plain ends at Blue Point. One spot, a hole in the cliffs, is stated to be " King Orry's Castle," or the point where the old Scandina-vian warrior landed on the island.

The Lhane Mooar River must then be crossed ; the walk will be continued on the sandy coast to Jurby Head, on the top of which there is a small mound, close to the Jurby Church, which commands a fine view. Beyond Jurby the cliffs assume a bolder and more interesting aspect. The cliffs then almost disappear until the old parish Church of Ballaugh is passed. The cliffs again become imposing at Orrisdale Head. Then comes Glen Trunk, which conducts to Bishop's Court, then Glen Balleira, and Glen Wyllin, which, in half a mile's distance, leads to Kirk Michael.

Half a mile beyond Glen Wyllin is Glen Mooar, beyond which are some caves and natural arches in the rocks. The walk round the cliffs present many picturesque spots to the lover of nature. Peel, the Castle, Peel Hill, Corrin's Tower, and South Barrule are now in sight. A mile and a half north of Peel there is a patch of the old red sandstone. Then comes Peel, the Castle, Corrin's Tower, &c. The Neb may be crossed at the ferry close to the Castle, the Peel Hillmust then be scaled, and the ascent continued to Corrin's Tower, which is 501 feet above the sea.

Continuing along the cliffs the tourist may visit St. Patrick's Well, and then come in view Brada Head and the Calf. About two miles from the tower, Glenmay has to be crossed; then comes Niarbyl Point, and a succession of romantic rocks on the most charming coast of the island. Then a walk, which involves a little fatigue, brings the pedestrian to Port Erin. The edge of the sea may be followed or the top of the cliffs selected, from which splendid views are obtained.

Fleshwick Bay may be avoided and the road to Port Erin followed, which leads through Brada Village; half a mile beyond which is Port Erin. From this beautiful resting-place the pedestrian must ascend the Mull Hills, either from the breakwater or the road from the village. In a little while Port St. Mary comes in sight, then the lighthouses on the Calf, and the " Chickens," and then a climb, and the top of Spanish Head is gained; when the pedestrian will have an opportunity of visiting the famous " Chasms."

A walk round Kallow Point, either by shore or road, brings the visitor to Port St. Mary. Leaving the village by the school, the lane leads round Gausy Point and then the Castletown Road is entered, which leads past Mount Gawne, and the mansion of Kentraugh, on to Castletown. From Castletown, passing Hango Hill, King William's College, and the Racecourse, Derbyhaven is reached. Then the traveller proceeds along the coast, past Ronaldsway to the mouth of Santon Burn-a most picturesque and interesting spot.

The next important inlet is Port Grenaugh, on each side of which are rocks and caves. At St. Ann's Head, a beauti ful view is obtained. Then comes the bay of Port Soderick, and the rocks around Little Ness and the wild rock-bound coast all the way to Douglas, where the walk of ioo miles ends-a walk which would never be forgotten.

A SAIL ROUND THE ISLAND.

During the summer months the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company send their steamers once or twice a week round the island, enabling visitors to enjoy a most charming sea trip. The course usually taken by the steamer is " south about," round the lighthouse at Douglas Head, when some, marvellous rocks, 200 to 300 feet in height, are passed. Then the lovely bay of Port Soderick is seen, and St. Anne's (or Santon) Head is also seen. Greenaugh, near which there are two old fortifications, is now passed; and St. Michael's Islet, upon which stands the remains of a fort; and to the west of the islet Derbyhaven and Dreswick Point. While passing Derbyhaven, a view of King

William's College and Castletown is obtained. Langness, the most dangerous and fatal reef on the coast, is a mass of clay schist, chiefly claret-coloured, intersected with dykes of green stone and trap, and capped on its western side with old red conglomerate. The "Racehorse " war-sloop was wrecked, about forty-five years ago, on the reef, and many a brave ship since that time. The visitor will not fail to mark, when the steamer is off Castletown Bay, the entire range of the mountains of the island. The steamer then proceeds across Poolvash (the Bay of Death), in the west corner of which is Port St. Mary, to which a fine fleet of fishing boats is attached. South of Port St. Mary, Berwick Bay is seen, above which are limekilns erected on a singular detached mass of the lower carboniferous limestone.

The steamer, for the pleasure of the passengers, generally goes close in shore, near the Spanish Head, said to derive its name from a portion of the Spanish Armada, in 1588, having been wrecked on the rocks. The vast cliff of elastic blue silurian schist rises more than goo feet from the sea, and gives the appearance of having been at some period of the earth's history rent from fop to bottom. The " Chasms " are also seen from the deck of the vessel. The lofty promon-tory, separating the Calf from the Island, is Fistard Head. The Kitterland Islet, the scene of the explosion of the brig " Lily," which had gone on the rocks, causing the death of thirty-two seamen ; and the Thousala Rock, with its beacon, are noticeable objects in the sound. Vessels of large ton-nage seldom venture through the sound, owing to the current and the rocks.

The two lighthouses on the Calf were built so that vessels might avoid the " Chickens "-a most dangerous reef. If both lights were kept open, the vessel would be safe. The " Chickens " is now better observed at sea by the new light-house built upon the terrible reef, which is three-quarters of a mile south of the Calf, and which is passed by the steamer.

On the western side of the Calf the strange and fantastic pile of rock called the °' Stack " is seen, and the western opening of the sound is passed ; at which point a view of Peel Castle is obtained. The coast is very picturesque and interesting, rising into the Mull Hills, which are 500 feet high. The steamer then crosses Port Erin Bay, into which a pile of stones have been thrown-called a breakwater (better named a " bay destroyer ")-at an immense cost. Brada Head, with its Milner Tower, is passed; then comes the charming Fleshwick Bay, from which rises the Ennyn Moar Mountain to a height of Boo feet. The scenery at this point baffles description to give a conception of its magnificence. The altitude of Cronk-na-Irey-Lhaa, or Hill of the Rising Day, is 1,445 feet above the sea.

The Cemetery, in which the Kings of Man are interred, is at the top of the mountain. The coast sinks down to the Niarbyl Point, and then Dalby Point is passed, beyond which is Glenmay. The tides meet from the north and south twice daily at Contrary Head, above which is Corrid's Folly and the Horse Shoe Hill; the steamer then rounds the holme, or island, on which stands the interesting ruins of Peel Castle. The vessel's course is then past Orry's Head, Glen Mooar, Glen Wyllyn, Glen Balleira, Michael, Orrisdale Head, and Glen Trunk, when a portion of Bishop's Court is seen.

From the mouth of the Ballaugh River the old church of Ballaugh is seen; Jurby Point, the Lhane, where King Orry landed on the island, and then the Point of Ayre, the most northern point of the land. -The lighthouse stands 1o6 feet above the sea, and shows a red and bright light every two minutes. Sandhills now take the place of the more romantic scenery, having an altitude in some parts of 300 feet.

Ramsey Bay, distant about seven miles from the Point of Ayre, is then entered, the scenery being delightfully varied with numerous trees, of which the island is becoming plenti-fully supplied.

Leaving the bay, with the " Albert Tower " above it, the steamer passes Maughold Head, rising 6oo feet from the sea; the rocks being most fantastically disposed, containing masses of quartz and ironstone. Mooar Creek is next seen, and Cornah, above which is the Ballaglass Waterfall. Then, to the south rises the granite mass of the Dhoon to a height of 638 feet above the sea, beyond which are seen the mountains of North Barrule, Snaefell, and Bein-y-Phot.

Above the hight of the Dhoon is Sliean Ree, rising 840 feet; then comes Laxey Head, Laxey Bay, Gatwick, Clay Head, nearly 400 feet high, Growdale, Bank's Howe, and the vessel steams into the Bay of Douglas, and the voyage of 80 miles is at an end.

MOUNTAINS.

The comparative heights of the mountains and hills of the island are as follows :-North Barrule, 1,842 feet above the sea; South Barrule, 1,584; Bein-y-Phot, 1,772 ; Brada, 758; Calf of Man, 472 ; Corrin's Tower, 675; Carran's Hill, 984; Cronk-na-Irey-Lhaa; 1445; Douglas Head, 3T5; Bank's Howe, 394; Dun Howe, near Foxdale, 757; Greeba, 1,591 ; Carraghan, 1,520; Maughold Head, 373; Mount Murray, 74; Mull Hill, 537; Sartel, 1,56o ; Sheanwhallin, 1,o86 ; Slienchairn, 1,533 ; Shen Dhoo, 1,139 ; Slien-e-Carnane, goo; Snaefell, 2,024; Spanish Head, 350; Santon Head, 392£

RIVER FISHING.

There are many rivers in the island, running through charming scenery, well worth visiting with rod and line. Douglas River, from Douglas Bridge to the Quarter Bridge, occasionally yields some nice trout. From Tromode to Baldwin and lnjebreck a good day's sport may be obtained.

The River Dhoo, below the Quarter Bridge at Douglas, contains trout equalling in flavour and appearance the Loch Leven trout. The river at the Union Mills, as far as Crosby, has a reputation for good fishing. Port Soderick River, commencing at the bridge over which the road passes, may be fished in three hours. Kirk Santon River The usual day's sport is commenced at Ballaglonney Bridge, where the coach stops; in some of the runs, sea trout are occasionally taken.

The River Silverburn is considered one of the most delightful rivers on the island. The point to commence operations is at Ballascalla, reached by the railway from Douglas, then to fish the river to and from Castletown, and in other directions.

Glen Rushen and Dalby Rivers: The point to which the angler is driven is Glenmay. The river past the Waterfall is useless, owing to the mine washing. At the village the road must be taken to the left, until a point is reached where there is clear water, and some fine, beautifully marked trout may be obtained.

Peel and Glen Helen Rivers are reached by taking the train from Douglas to St. John's, and then proceeding past Ballacraine Inn, towards Glen Helen. A good point to commence is at the stone bridge, about a mile from the inn. Below it may be fished as far as the Peel River, and the upper portion as far as Rhenass Bridge.

Spooyt Vane and Little London Rivers: A vehicle must take the angler to Injebreck (seven miles from Douglas), and a walk of a mile and a half to the top of the hill brings the owner of the rod and line to the Little London River in the Glen, which may be fished as far as the Falls. Some excel-lent sport may be obtained in the numerous pools.

Ballaugh Stream: The Village of Ballaugh is an excellent centre from which to visit the rivers at the north of the island.

Sulby Glen and River can only be effectively visited from Ramsey. Sulby River is represented as the most important and beautiful river on the island.

Kenna River, situated about half way between Laxey and Ramsey, affords capital fishing and charming scenery.

Glen Roy, Snaefell, and Cregg Neish Rivers must be visited from Laxey, when, ordinarily, good sport is ob-tained.

Bibaloe, or White Bridge River, is close to Kirk Onchan, two miles from Douglas, and is worth visiting as much for its scenery as its trout. Mr. Armrovd, fishing tackle maker, Douglas, will afford every information as to the best bait and flies for the various rivers.

SEA FISHING.

The month best adapted for sea fishing is June, when mackerel, gurnet, codling, calig, and bollen, may be caught. Mackerel fishing is fine sport from a boat propelled by sails or oars. All that is required is a single line, held in the hand, baited with a strip of mackerel sunk in the sea with a lead weight. The boatmen make all needful provision for the sport. Sometimes enormous quantities of mackerel are taken in a very short time.

Calig fishing affords good sport. The best time to fish is in the evening about dusk. The month of August is an excellent time fot sea fishing in Douglas Bay, when quantities of codling, blocken, and calig are obtained.

Fishing for conger eels is very exciting sport, better managed under the direction of the harbour boatmen.

ANTIQUITIES, GEOLOGY, AND NATURAL HISTORY.

The antiquarian will be interested in the barrows or mounds of earth which mark the ancient resting places of the dead, which may be seen near Greenaugh, Ramsey, Bride, and in Andreas, near Tynwald Hill, on Lambfell, and on the mountains of Archallagan, Banteo stones-stones standing out of the ground in memory of ancient warriors. The Giant's Quoiting Stones and the Cloven Stones are Scandi-navian monuments.

There are several ancient burial places on the island. There are also cairns, heaps of stones, like the one near Laxey. The only castles on the island are at Castletown and Peel. Local coins, some very rare and ancient, are preserved. The stone circles, of which there are more than twenty on the island, are generally supposed to be Druidical remains, but there is little doubt that they are of Scandina-vian origin.

Ancient forts may be seen on St. Michael's Islet, Kirk Christ, Rushen, Marown, Santon, Braddan, Corvalley, and Andreas. The island is also rich in monumental crosses, many of which are exquisite in design. The only round tower of any importance is the one in Peel Castle.

Tradition attaches the fact that there are no venomous reptiles and toads on the island to the influence of St. Patrick. There are, however, an abundance of frogs. Lizards are common on the island. Foxes, badgers, or moles are not found. Cats, and occasionally fowls, which are native to the island, are seen without tails. Partridges and quails are found, but no grouse.

The red-legged crow is common, also the kingfisher, the hoopee, the goatsucker, the shrike, the crossbill, and the roller. The " angel fish " and the °° sea stickleback " are sometimes caught in the bays.

The island is mainly composed of slate, the mountains chiefly of mica slate. Quartz abounds in veins and detached masses. The mines of Laxey, Brada, and Foxdale, are in the slate rock. The other rocks of the island are sandstone and limestone. Numerous fossil shells are found in the limestone of Poolvash. A great fossil elk was dug up in the parish of Ballaugh, which is now in the museum of the Edinburgh University.

POPULAR CUSTOMS AND SUPERSTITIONS.

The island can equal Ireland in its stories and belief in sprites, fairies, and the " little people." Much of this is to be traced to the Druids, who resided on the island for four hundred years. The Druidical mysteries, incantations, and predictions, were, no doubt, the origin of much of the superstition existing in Mona. Superstition still exists. Charms are believed by many to have the power to ward off and cure disease.

The customs of the older inhabitants are now, however, falling into disuse. Many of these are exceedingly interest-ing, notably the " Quaaltagh ; " which is a visit, generally of young men, on the new year's morning, who, like the " waits " in England, are hospitably entertained. The company chant a rude rhyme of good wishes at the door. " Laa Boaldyn " is a ceremony which originated with the Druids. It was held on the first day of May, when great fires were kindled on the tops of the hills in honour of " that glorious luminary, which now began to shine upon them with great warmth and lustre." The custom in the island is to light May-fires on the mountains, as it is said, to frighten fairies and witches from the shores, and to propitiate the great ruling power in order to obtain protection from the evil genii of the sea or storm.

The "Mheilled " is the " Harvest Home" of England, and, in Manx, means the " Reaper's Rest." " Sauin," or Hollan-tide Eve, is kept up by boys who go round the towns and villages singing, " This is old Hollantide night, the moon shines fair and bright." The Hollantide supper is composed of potatoes, parsnips, and fish.

Hunting the Wren" is a custom which is peculiar to St. Stephen's Day. The origin of the custom is, according to tradition, that a fairy once charmed the warriors of Mona into the sea, where they were drowned. A knight, however, was near slaying the fairy had she not, in the form of a wren, made her escape. The knight then condemned the wren, whenever found, to destruction. On St. Stephen's day, ever since, hunting and destroying the wren has taken place. The feathers of the birds are kept as charms. Boys per-ambulate the street with a gaily decorated pole at the top of which the bird is placed.

The " Oiel Verry " is a celebration in the churches on the Christmas Eve, when the sacred building is decorated with evergreens and brilliantly illuminated. The " White Boys," as in the north of England, introduce Christmas in their curious fashion, crying at the street doors, "who wants to see the white boys act ? "

The superstitions of the island have been, if not now, wide spread. The believers in fairies and monsters, however, are now only to be found amongst the most ignorant of the country population. The "mermaid " held, if it does not now hold, a prominent place in the belief of the marvellous. The Manx mermaid is a monster of the deep, which, owing to unrequited love, enveloped the island in mist, and is now to be heard on the rocks near the Calf of Man-only, of course, at night: The " Tarroo Ushtey " is a wild bull of the water, which, getting among the cattle near the sea, makes sad work. The " Glashtin," or water-horse, is addicted to the sport of chasing the land horses. The " Dooinney Oie " disports himself on the shore during stormy weather and utters a fearful ecry of " howlaa ! howlaa ! howlaa ! " The "Rhynnodderee" is a great fallen fairy trans formed into a wild satyr, covered with shaggy hair. The traditions of the marvellous record many and varied exploits of this monster. The "Big Boggane " is a giant monster given to thrashing corn and otherwise helping poor farmers during the night hours.

The belief in the "evil eye" is also common on the island-any one coveting a neighbour's cow casts an evil eye upon it, and the beast from that moment languishes and droops. To detect the originator of the mischief the cow is burnt on the highway; the first person who approaches the place of the burning is the one with the evil eye. Fairy and spirit doctors are also believed in by the country people, who, for two or three shillings, obtain charms for the cure of all kinds of disease.

CARS AND CARRIAGES.

Comfortable and well-appointed traps for four or eight persons may be obtained. The terms to any town and back are clearly defined, the driver being paid extra. For a carriage and pair of horses to carry not more than ten persons to the following places and back, to be detained for the day at the option of the hirer : Ramsey, 34s. 6d., driver, 3s. 6d. ; Ramsey, via Laxey, 29s. 6d., driver, 3s. 6d.; Kirk Michael, 23s. 6d., driver, 3s. 6d. ; Peel, Port Erin, and Port St. Mary, 34s. 6d., driver, 3s. 6d.; Glenmay, 19s. 6d., driver, 3s. ; Castletown, 19s. 6d., driver, 3s.; Peel, 19s., driver, 3s. ; Laxey, 19s., driver, 3s. For short distances: One mile and back, 4s. ; every additional mile or part of a mile and back, 2s. If taken by time: For an hour or part of an hour, 4s. ; every additional half-hour or part of half an hour, 2s. For sociable, or long car, for the day: To Ramsey, via Kirk Michael, 3s. 6d. each person; ditto Ramsey, via Laxey, 3s. 6d.; ditto Peel and Castletown, 3s. 6d. ; ditto Peel, Port Erin, and Port St. Mary, 3s. 6d. ; ditto Castletown, 3s.; ditto Peel, 3s. ; ditto Laxey, 3s. No fee to the driver. For a car or carriage drawn by one horse, to carry not more than four persons besides the driver, and may be detained for the day if the hirer desires it: To Ramsey and back, i 7s., driver, 3s.; Ramsey via Laxey, 14s. 6d., driver, 3s.; Kirk Michael, 13s. 6d., driver, 3s.; Castletown, 8s. 6d., driver, 2s. 6d.; Peel, 8s. 6d., driver, 2s. 6d. ; Laxey, 8s. 6d., driver, 2s. 6d.; Peel and Glenmaye, 11s. 6d., driver, 3s.; Peel, Port Erin, and Port St. Mary, 17s., driver, 3s. If taken by the mile and back, 2S.; every additional mile or part of a mile, and back,

is. If taken by time: For the first hour or part of an hour, 2s. ; for every additional hour or part of an hour, is. No extra charge can be made by the driver, except in the cases specified, to the amount of the legal fees. If a horse is unfit for the " due and proper draught and service " of the vehicle to which it is harnessed, the owner is liably to a penalty of £2. A driver refusing to take the number of persons for which the vehicle is licensed is liable to a penalty of £2. If a driver neglects his duty, or refuses to drive to the place for which he is hired, he is liable to a penalty of £2. If the driver contracts for a less sum than the legal fare, and then afterwards exacts that amount, he is liable to a penalty of £2. 1% If he demands more than the legal fare he is liable to a penalty of £2 ; any agreement to pay more than the legal fare is not binding, and the sum paid over the proper fare

may be recovered. A driver is liable to a penalty,of £2 if the distance he agrees to go is not travelled by his vehicle. If a driver carries a person without the consent of the hirer of his vehicle for the time being he is liable to a penalty of

£r. If a driver does not obey the reasonable orders of the hirer of his vehicle he is liable to a penalty of £5. If a driver does not produce a copy of the bye-laws, or a copy of his license, when asked to do so, or if he gets drunk, or uses abusive, indecent, or insulting language, or rude behaviour, to any person, he is liable to a penalty of £5. If convicted three times of any of these offences he may be disqualified from driving a vehicle. Infants carried in the arms or on the lap, or one child not so carried, but under seven years of age, and accompanied by an adult, must not be charged for as passengers. Two children, under seven years of age, not so carried, may be charged for as one adult passenger, and so in proportion for any number of children. The distance travelled by a vehicle is computed from the place where it was engaged. No extra charge can be made for luggage. One-horse car from the steamer is charged 1s. 6d., 2s., and 2s. 6d. according to distance; a long car with two horses double the fare.

EXTRACT FROM REVISED BYE-LAW.

" For a Car or Carriage drawn by One Horse, to or from the Stands used by Hackney Cars or Carriages on the arrival of or departure of the Steamers, to or from any part of the town within the limits named in the following boundaries, viz.:-Along the North Quay, up Bridge Hill, along Athol Street, Prospect Hill, Finch Road, and Church Road to the Shore, along the Shore to the Pier, including any of the above-named street, the sum of is. 6d. ; and to or from any part of the town outside the above-named boundaries, except the Crescent Road northward beyond Castle Mona, and except Victoria Road northward beyond the bridge next Marathon, the sum of 2s. ; and to or from any part of the Crescent Road between Castle Mona and the extreme limits of the town, or to or from any part of Victoria Road between the Bridge next Marathon and the extreme limits of the town, the sum of 2s. 6d. No extra charge for luggage. Double the Fares for Two Horses."

PORTERS.

For every box, trunk, or large package carried from the steamer to the car 3d. is charged, or vice verste; for every hat box, gun case, or small package, id. For every large package carried within the boundaries of the town 6d. is charged ; for any small package carried the same distance, 2d. For any large package carried outside of the town boundaries 9d. is charged ; and for every small package carried the same distance 4d. is charged.